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Hello Jay, not sure what you mean by sill extensions. Are you asking if you can connect them for a longer run/system? If so, all sills have steps in their instructions to “splice” them next to each other.

@LearnGlazing no, a sill extension would be piece of aluminum that snaps or interlocks into the subsill to provide a sill that would extend past the face of the facade. If this isn't by the manufacturer then it would have to be field or shop fabricated with brake metal, which is less desirable.

That can definitely be a struggle. There’s an old scuba trick to rub som spot on the inside that can work sometimes.

It’s very easy to over complicate processes in writing. Glad you liked this video. One note is we like to tell students to push the arm slightly, maybe about 5/10 deg in the directions that it will open to add a bit of tension before tightening it to help the direction of the swing.

Thank you. We have the rest of the series on our site that will teach you how to do the math on the millions, glass, gaskets, screws and everything you would need to order a system.

In our latest step front installation course we built a larger version with a door and a lot more video content.

Glad the video is helpful - It’s a whole new world out here!

Hello Chirael. We will tech out to a few sponsors to see if we can get out hands on some of this stuff to make a follow up video for you. Thanks for reaching out.

@@LearnGlazing thank you! 😊🙏

All of our courses are on our official website at LearnGlazing.com All you need to do is sign up with an email and start taking them when you are ready.

Thank you. We have a lot more coming.

Thank you for the comment and supporting our channel, glad you find them helpful!

Thank you. As you can see, these new courses are a lot of fun to work on.

We will have several classes on safety glazing. Just keep an eye on out site, register for free (we are funded by sponsors) and you’ll have access to all of our classes, including these new ones as they come out.

We have a course on it that goes into specifics. It’s free to take.

Lol, not sure what you mean?

​@@LearnGlazingyes you are not a good thing either

Wow 14 layers is the most I've ever heard off. Alex worked on some project that had maybe 5-6. That's impressive

@@LearnGlazing We had to be really careful on handling and especially packing the glass because it was really fragile. There were a lot of them in the order. The size of these things was something like 48" x 4" and remembering back, we had to use 2mm (maybe 2.2?) and not 3mm glass in the make-up because of finished product overall thickness concerns. The combination of size, 14 layers, and thin glass made for scary handling.

Thank you! Much appreciated

It does perform very well.

Hey Monica. Absolutely, send us a message at support@learnglazing.com and we’ll make sure to get it to the right person.

Thanks Greg, Glad you like them!

Hello Ashish, although we do not have estimating specific courses, we do have a few courses that would be very helpful to estimating like: Glazing Systems 101 Introduction to Shop Drawings Ordering Project Materials Series (Stock Lengths, Accessories, Sealant and Backer Rod, Glass) Store front system options Curtain Wall system options Intro to Door Hardware Intro to All Glass Systems Glass Products 101 Insulated Glass 101 Decorative Glass Laminated Glass Door Handing Intro to Glass Guardrails

Greg, this is Very interesting. Indeed it can. The argument can be made a bunch of different ways for it. On the one side and at a fabrication level, it needs to have 6 so that in case there is any treatments on to the laminated glass like a frit pattern or so we know what surface its on. But, to a glazing contractor in the field, that no longer matters and having less surfaces might be easier to understand. So is the right answer that it has 6 until it is build and then is reduced to four? Much to ponder about, thank you for the comment.

@@LearnGlazing Great reply! Thanks and I thought that you would enjoy the question. In the residential world we also usually looked at it as lami has 4 during fabrication and 2 once installed in an IG. Another possibility might be if the lami had a LowE coating inside the laminate sandwich. Since it's critical to make sure that the coating is installed in the window opening correctly, whether in an IGU or on it's own (still happens in some places), knowing which interior surface had the coating is vital and in that case, once again the lami has 4 referenced surfaces. As you well know, sometimes something that seems so simple, isn't.

@@gregcorwin8316 I think the short answer would be to just keep it at 6. Since simplifying could only lead to trouble.

@@LearnGlazing Not sure how much this affects commercial installs, but in the residential world I would tend to lean more toward describing a laminated over mono IGU as having 4 surfaces rather than 6 once it's installed in a window frame if for no other reason than to hopefully avoid potential confusion when describing performance differences between a lami "triple pane" and a more conventional triple pane, at least on paper.

The short answer is no. The long answer is that by definition, tempered glass has a minimum surface compression of 10,000 psi or greater, while heat strengthened has a surface compression range of 3,500 to 7,500 psi. IF the heat strengthened glass is at the very low end of the surface compression range then it MIGHT be possible to successfully cut it but it's going to be hit or miss at best.

Greg is correct. Once you change the surface to internal molecular structure of glass by heat treating it, then it’s a huge gamble that would is likely to pop.

@@LearnGlazing Yep, and just to clarify that I was talking about the low end of the heat strengthened glass and not tempered. Tempered can never be cut or drilled or notched or so on...not with hand tools, not with lasers, not with waterjet....doesn't matter, can't do it.

Happy to help Thank you for watching.

polycarbonate

You bet!

Agreed - Thanks! Will do!

It really is! Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thank you.

Glad you enjoyed it! Keep an eye on our channel, we have another one coming soon. Much more detailed.

Glad it was helpful! It's an important topic that most people misunderstand. Our latest course "Building Movement" soon to be released focuses on this much more in depth. Should be out this month or early next. Just adding some final touches.

No problem. It’s a great product with a lot of versatility.

Couldn't agree more. Learning new things is the only way to grow. It benefits the individual and the company.

It's definitely a tricky thing with everyone having their own ways. This is where a solid set of shop drawings with a front and top view can really make a big difference.

That is a good way to look at it. Call it based on the hand you would use to easily clear the door, but this gets tricky the second you are going outward as it flips the hand. So we just need to agree that we always label from the outside.

@@LearnGlazing Nothing is simple, and common sense isn't always common. Sometimes there isn't an "outside" either. Take corridors for example, or a door between 2 rooms. There's not always an inside / outside. Adding to "outside", you could say "outside, or the locked side of the door" further encompasses more applications, but still not all. For the few that get left out, it would just have to be a case by case basis, probably by looking at the hardware being installed and determining the egress of the opening. Hinges alone do not indicate swing due to the hardware being installed. Swing is 75% door to frame orientation, and 25% the type of hardware being installed. Just me 2 cents.

It really is, as the self claimed smartest species on earth we owe it to the rest to take care of them.

Hey Jason. It truly is pretty fascinating and to often overlooked.

Absolutely!

Hey Mudassara, absolutely, is there anything in particular you were looking for. We have a new mock up made so we can dive deeper into this subject as it has been highly requested.

Hello Kjtimpani, Thank you for your comment. We would love to make this video a bit better. Could you clarify a bit? the video goes over the pocket filler at the 2:15 mark and had highlighted the OBM's as the intermediates also. Do you think that having added a top view of the components would help?

Thank you Weshawkins. We appreciate your support.

Yes, thank you for pointing this out.

Hey Triumf, In short, it's definitely possible. However this usually complicates things like inventory and QC a bit by having to deal with multiple suppliers, warranties, etc.

It's definitely a problem. And, in this industry, we can be a stubborn bunch.

Just ask what side the viewable hinges are on when ordering a door? Don’t trust Door swing labeling anymore because too many sellers get it wrong

Hey Pablo, yeah! there is. It's a pretty great one that comes with a pretty intense test. It was designed to test the quality, safety, and knowledge of a seasoned glazier who deserves credit for all their hard work.

Hey Jonathan. Left and out works as it is understandable to everyone. The trick is in getting everyone to use the same words and the most common is LH (in) LHR (out) and RH (in) RHR (out). By naming the door based on the hinges left or right, the rest is pretty simple. But many manufacturers and large companies teach differently. Assa Abloy for instance, one of the larges in entry systems uses this method, whereas Kawneer a large glazing manufacturer doesn't. There also seems to be confusion from those who deal with residential vs commercial doors. Specifically prehung doors. Much like the offset pivots, prehung residential doors are only sound in R or L, and one must figure out which one they need when swinging out. So for them it would be a Right Hand to make it swing out like the one we open in the video. So, the argument continues

Thank you! This one was a lot of fun to play with.

Thank you! Now we just need everyone to see and adopt it.