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as long as itsjust bent and didnt put a hole in the block its fine lol, yeah 2 bar on stock rods at lower rpm not that great of an idea lol. though it is posible to run that with a large turbo at high rpms. ive seen stock bottom end BP4Ws make 450 whp

@@throttlebuddies6356 I got lucky and did not hurt block ,but yeah now fully forged bottom end and port and polish head .. next Is heavy dbl springs so I have a dead line of 9k so I can safely set a 8500 limiter , and I got a custom intake and oversized tb, but my turbo manifold is not best at all , so that should be my next priority tbh .. but I did take your advice and dropped to 28psi (not quite the 25 u recommended but lol) and played with timing a degree or two , and you are deff right .. my timing is super conservative.. every degree I add I can almost say I feel the increase in torque lol... but yeah bro this series your doing is awesome for the community.. and hopefully it helps connect more of us miata/mx5 brethren .. maybe .. anyways .. I want to see a update on your builds brotha .. once you are fully settled into the new shop ..I think that would be a good vid for you to showcase some of your own work aswell as connect to maybe a wider community, cuz I feel your channel deff deserves to reach out and grow brotha .. peace and love bro or I will keep rambling lol (I'm ADHA my bad 🤭)

In this case reference was directly to compressor housing without any ebc etc. inbetween confirmed that this happened with two turbos. I would understand that this could happen if line was too long, leaky, plumbed incorrectly with a 4 port solenoid etc. but in this case was a new silicone line of about 20cm in length sooo yeah. Preload was as set by garrett and then reduced by myself to 2-3mm

Dauert leider noch was.

Sure but there needs to be at least a plug on the speed sensor port as if its open that might not be ideal power wise lol

Thanks!

Thanks!

Have had a lot of experience with 1.8ts mamba does make some great hybrid turbos for the 1.8t plattform at a reasonable price if you dont wanna go for the g25 route

How can I send you my tune etc? I’m not on insta or any other platforms

it would unfortunately only possible on insta or via email you can find my email adress in the description of the video.

haha yeah pretty much!

Afr or ve?

Ja das is der grund warum ich closed loop bei ladedruckregelung nicht mag und nur open looop fahre lol hab da noch keine lösung

@@throttlebuddies6356 normalerweise tune ich Autos mit original Steuergerät... Dort legst du kein start duty an sondern max duty. Somit kannst du den Bereich so gut eingrenzen und sagen wenn der lader kommt max 30% danach kannst ihm ein bisschen Spielraum geben....

@@throttlebuddies6356 kommst du von Nürnberg? Ich komme aus Region Aalen.

jo genau, das funktioniert bei besseren steuergeräten auch da kannst du dem steuergerät auch vorgeben bei welchem duty cycle welcher ladedruck anliegen soll wie bei einer ME 7.5 zum beispiel aber das geht beim speeduino nicht. meine empfehlung da ist eignetlich immer optn loop das funktioniert in der regel am besten ich hab mal in nürnberg gewohnt, wohne aber jetzt in griechenland und mache abstimmungen meistens remote, dafür aber weltweit :)

Hatte den so 5000km drin ungefàhr dann hab ich das auto verkauft lader war da noch gut kein öl verbrannt etc. hatte aber auch schon andere von denen die nich wirklich lang gehalten haben

havent done that in perticular, tho i have tuned many different engines. also some purely built NA cars.

@@throttlebuddies6356 I'm building a k20a3 with VTech locked it has vtc and I'm having a hard time trying to wire it to the speeduino and how to control it I've had some tell me you can only control it on closed loop Im very new to this it's my first ecu project been a V8 carb guy ally life (52) and trying to gain as much knowledge as I can but no info on k series just missing tooth crank sensor and one tooth cam please help maybe get me In the right direction if you can

@@charlestorruella8591 vtec in closed loop doesnt make much sense. Usually you have a table where you control it on open loop with set values depending on rpm and load (tps or map that is) if you want to send me a dm on insta, maybe ill be able to help you

id say there is not necesserely a "best" be all and end all, because most ecus offer different feautures at different price levels. while you could run this engine on a speeduino ECU at a lower budget, an ECUmaster EMU Black or a Maxxecu sport may have more features that you want such as electronic throttle bodies, EGT monitoring and tuning. and for modern cars (so not really in this case) you might want something with more canbus functionality and GDI capabilities. all in all its also kind of a balance of features, price, and what you need. If you for example build a driftcar a fueltech ecu might also be worth looking into, as it is basically an ECU integrated into a digital dash.

Thx man. its not about critique only, i also would love to show really good tunes as an example, on how to do it right, many people can learn from that also! and it is interesting to see for other people aswell on how different cars need to be tuned.

@@throttlebuddies6356 definitely agree bro , and I am always down to learn .. knowledge is power .. and I am deff curious to see what others in different altitudes and climates have tuned as im at sea level on the coast in N.C. .. as have yet to have to alter my Baro or fueling due to any alt or changes , but I know it does affect the tune .. much respect brotha .. peace and love man .. ps if I get a praise I want to be roasted aswell 😂

Nah the tps on mine is reading wierd values depending on how its mounted it only reads in liek 6.5 percent steps. I think im just gonna use a different one and be done with it lol

@@throttlebuddies6356 Yeah good luck. Can be fussy buggers

i mean for 600-800 bucks depending where you are located you can also buy a pulsar turbo wich are known to work really well but well se maybe i will get one at some point.

@@throttlebuddies6356 Yeah that's the dilemma! So far they have a GT2871, GT3071, and GT3076. I'm sure they'll do a GT3582 eventually. They end up coming in just under the typical Pulsar price with arguably comparable features, but it would be impossible for me to say one is better since so far I have experience with neither. About to test my GT3071, but not exactly torture test it. Wish I had a dyno I'd love to compare them back to back.

Issue is also no options for echausg housings. Kind of a dealbreaker in my opinion and the gt28 is just a journal bearing not even with a 360 degree thrust bearing and still is 600 bucks

@@throttlebuddies6356 Agreed that the lack of turbine housing options limits the applications. Unless you meant something else. The new GT28 is a ball bearing turbo. You have to go to the Sport Turbo category and not the "For Sport Universal Turbo" section. It's there for $591 before coupon and lists all the same benefits as the two new GT30 ball bearing turbos, just without the V-band exhaust inlet and outlet. I'd have to have one in hand to verify all the claims, but no reason to doubt. Is it worth it for a GT28? Probably not. It's a very strange compressor trim they chose as well. Even smaller than Garrett's smallest 48 trim. Really meant for a smaller engine pushing a lot of boost. I'll def be trying to test one out down the road.

@@802Garage says on their site 270 degree thrust bearing and floating bearing so journal bearing and yes the sport category one for 600 bucks

absolutely! works great as you can hear. but plenty of people have done it and shown on youtube. though many people use it wrong. it is VERY important to get the placement right, otherwise you will only hear very heavy knock

Nice, should be a lot of fun in a car that small

Correct, thats a better explanation than i did haha

if you have problems like this, check if your throttlebody is closed completely first and that you dont have any vacuum leaks in your intake manifold normally an engine shouldnt be able to run when the IAC is at 0 % DC

Video??

@@tommylyeahsarcasm

In theory would work on any turbo

Only works for the blacktop youll have to repin a bunch of stuff

@@throttlebuddies6356 works great with a honda adapter re-pinned with the addition of map sensor and iat sensor and i think could be configured before you buy it.

Danke, Grüße zurück 😅🙏

Doesnt really matter i think 10mm or something should even be sufficient.

@@throttlebuddies6356 I got a G35-900. Im not entire sure if the speed sensor hole is even threaded. Theres a hole, and then theres a black plastic cap on it thats held down by another smaller hole next to it with a bolt. I dont think the actual hole that goes into the turbo that the sensor sits in is threaded. Im a bit confused as to how you are supposed to mount this spacer exactly

@@placeholdername3206I have a Garrett g30-770 and mines the same way. Has to take a look and got all excited but then I was like what? How’s a spacer fit in here 😅… I wonder if we just take it off entirely??

Have not used a stock knock sensor from an mx5 i know that the bosch sensors work well tho

Thanks a lot 🙏 really appreciate the kind words! If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments or hmu on insta

@@throttlebuddies6356 are you familiar with rusEFI? I heard it is like Speeduino but a few levels up. It works with a knock sensor and electronic throttle body and they almost have it work with GDI.

Yeah i am. Tuned two cars with it works very similarly to megasquirt

@@throttlebuddies6356 super, would be grat if you do a video series of it, like Speeduino.

Ill see but most things on this series you will be able to use for tusefi and megasquirt also as this is more like a thneretudio guide you could say :)

Wich ones do you mean exactly? Pulsar offers units up to like 120 or so

On the speeduino its currently not possible to hook up a knock sensor. I will release a video on how to do ignition tuning on the road on Tuesday, i show everything there. I use DET-cans to monitor knock and adjust my timing accordingly. Works very well like that.

@@throttlebuddies6356 thank you!

Yeah the maxpeedingrods units id only recommend for maximum of like 15 psi or so anything above that i would be looking for an upgrade. As for their coilovers they are good depending on the car but sometimes seem to be leaking quite quickly soooo meh i guess. I havent had any pulsar turbos fail due to defects, only by user error so i highly recommend them.

@@throttlebuddies6356 right ... so my main thing now I thing I struggle with is , exhaust back pressure in the log manifold .. I don't think it like that high boost lol ... I been trying g to find and figure what the best 1.6 manifold would be , without compromise durability (cuz we know the log is basically indestructible lol) , I would love a aretec lol but I don't think they make it for 1.6 mazda engines sadly ... have you had any luck with differant manifolds bro? Or do ya have a recommendation.. I need to post a update vid on it so when I do try to figure stuff out I have a reference lol 😂 cuz I think my last post was over a year ago lol.. anyways hope to hear back from ya some more bro and maybe even show off our builds if ya make it to MATG this year .. peace and love bro

@@mastercricket7626 best one is kraken by far. very good layout and works well up to 600 hp. and because it is cast its very durable. you will gain horsepower by just lowering backpressure a bunch and also stress your engine wayyyyy less. The next option would just be a tubular manifold out of a high quality stainless steel so that it doesnt crack!