Видео

Thanks! Yeah good point, I was keeping it to 10V in my test, but for 12V you're right

We don't ever show out math...ever. Any explanation of the math is too long no matter how short, I was snoring by the second slide. Don't do that to people. The coding people will deal with because it shows the logic behind what you are doing. Math formulas are death, that an instant tune out for all but s very slim slice of people that are probably too busy doing something constructive to watch RUclips. Just saying.

mF would be millifarad (1/1,000 farad) ; µF is microfarad (1/1,000,000 farad). Most people just type uF instead of µF as u is on a standard keyboard. If you want the proper µ character, it can be typed with alt+0181.

> Throw a tl431 in the mix. It's a shunt regulator, a zener with a reference voltage. The purpose of the video is demonstrating closed - loop control using digital control and feedback, implemented in a "toy" system. Not simply to design a bog standard 12V boost circuit using off-the-shelf analogue components, which is what you'd do if the purpose of the system wasn't 100% education and discovery. mF is millifarad, uF is microfarad.

@LordPhobos6502 My point was that no one uses that unit of measure. Use what is written on the capacitor. Does your capacitor say 1mf on it? Or are we starting a movement here to get everyone on the metric system? I remember the first time they did that and you would think you were trying to get people to eat worms. They were apparently far too busy making up jingles involving Jimmy Carter and the Oscar Meyer Weiner song to do something that would make everyone's life easier.

The only particular advice I can give is when you start making the PCB trace, think well about your width and space between them, because a small error can show up only at the end, making you have to essentially start over. In particular I recall making the mistake of thinking that if I have 8 turns and one side can hold 4, the other will as well, instead one turn is always lost when connecting the two layers. As far as other advice goes I can't think of anything else in particular, if you're going to do it, just start and you'll get the hang of it quicker than you might think. If you have specific questions I'll be happy to answer them! Hope that helps, good luck and happy designing!

I believe so, yes.

The current is allowed to flow through the two rectifier diodes in series with the transformer. It won't be magnetically chocked because the two currents' magnetic fields have opposite directions. The additional diode would only spare the minimal loss in the copper of the transformer during the short dead time. In fact after modifying the rectifier the efficiency got close to 90%, which I consider decent for a low voltage, low power system.

I didn't know about those components, I just checked them out and it's a great suggestion, thanks!

Thanks! That's a great project. I won't give suggestions on which to choose, but what I'll say is to keep in mind the feedback and control of the output voltage. You might prefer doing it with the ADC and a little programming, or letting the IC deal with most of it. In any case good luck!

Thank you so much, it means a lot!

Hi, unfortunately I made the video years ago, so I don't remember. But it might be 100uF. If you're looking for a specific frequency just use the formula: f = 1/(R•C) This will give a good initial approximation.

@5VLogic thank you. Can I have a circuit diagram plss. I am beginner about these stuff.i literally confused which pin at op amp That connect in circuit.

@@quswer8206 Sure, no worries. What components are you using? In particular what OpAmp? Because the pins can change. I'll try to draw a quick schematic and upload it somewhere.

Thank you for the kind feedback!

Thanks!!!

Do you mean just low frequency, or high duty cycle, where the LED stays on way longer that it's off? If you just want low frequency you only need to increase the values of R and C. But the duty cycle will always stay close to 50%. If you want the LED to stay on way longer than it's off (high duty cycle) this circuit won't do it. You should use the traditional astable circuit.

Thanks! It's a slight step-up, like 13:9

@@5VLogic thanks. So 1:1 could work as well?

Sure, just remember that the forward converter usually takes a maximum duty cycle of 50%, so you'll get less that 0.5 times the input voltage at the output.

What are you referring to with "source"?

It is valuable because if for nothing else it reinforces why things are done a certain way.

@@vincentwhite7693 its useless because noone is doing it this way, besides being a half-assed attempt at explaining it.

@@VEC7ORlt I am a relative beginner and yes, yours was/is my response on one level, but then I was grateful at having had an inadvertent master tutorial on the problems involved, which appeals to my curiosity. But not every beginner would be able to critique the video, I get it.

@@vincentwhite7693 start reading data sheets and application notes, there are plenty of those, varying from simple to PhD grade, and they are way better than these vids.

Thank you for the feedback, that's great to know!

Yeah, I screwed up while recording the explanation, and forgot to correct it in editing. Thanks

True, probably no more than 3 bands if I use first order filters, but definitely an improvement

It's an interesting idea, I remember your previous comment about it. I am also thinking that for uC projects (that are usually quite small in size) CB is not optimal, it's around 27MHz and at these frequencies a proper dipole antenna is 5 meters long (2.5 m for monopole) this becomes really impractical. Also having tried this kind of projects in the past I realized that experimenting is quite difficult because the transmitter and receiver are often within near-field range of each other, and the signal appears to go through the power lines in the walls. making it quite hard to work with. In any case I'm keeping this idea in mind, as I always like the RF field of electronics

​@@5VLogicthe anteena need not be 5m long in a straight line, you can wind it up in a coil and it works just fine! Its called anteena loading btw, 😃 I want you try this project. In a couple of videos, I saw an Arduino used to generate the AC signal with its two PWM pins. But couldn't find a detailed description. I hope you look more into it 😀 Good luck 🤞

​@@5VLogicAs far as I know, the 27Mhz has better penetration than 2.4Ghz and it works great as long as the wattage is sufficient. Testing some circuits might help though...

Single ended amplifier.

@@4bSix86f61 huh?

I believe it would make some problems since the linear regulator isn't made to sink current, therefore the AC would be problematic. Although I should probably try it. Also any small offset would result in DC going through the speaker which isn't nice.

Thanks!!! It really means a lot!

That's a though one, the polypropylene cap should be fine, just don't use an electrolytic one. I'm assuming you are using the same value as me... Maybe you can increase current in the inductor, but I'm not sure. If you have an oscilloscope, check the waveform going into the Arduino ADC, this way you can figure out if it's a firmware problem or a hardware one. Hope this helps

@@5VLogic I'm using a High Gain transistor, i tried increasing the Pulse time of the Transistor, it's the same. I'll probably experiment again, thanks for the response

Yeah, I was considering it, but was short on time and didn't get it done.

Not yet, but it's an idea. I should look into doing that. I'm a little doubtful on how many people would be interested since it would require people to also order the components. EDIT: just got it done for the small version. The large one I'm tempted to avoid. Maybe I'll do it some other time.

@@5VLogic do you have a link to it please?

@@retrocomputinggrotto Yup: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Miniaturized_Buck_Converter_46919872.html

The two resistors at the output (Rfb1 & Rfb2) determine the output voltage. The voltage divider must produce 1.25V at nominal output voltage. Also: all components must be rated for this voltage. And the input must be higher than 24V because it's a step-down converter