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Even though this video does not have all the information. Your demonstration was pretty close. As I am a certified marine mechanic, I noticed a few things of concern. I am only sharing this info to try and help. #1 Never use anti seize. Merc recommends using grease or oil on threads. While cleaning the gears inspect them. If there is any pitting they should be replaced. #2 It is critical on any gearcase, upper or lower, to check the tolerances like preload and backlash. Especially if you replace any internal parts. #3 The Bravo upper gear assemblies are all timed gears. Both gears will have a + on one side of the gear and a - on the other side. When installing the drive gear and clutch cam , these upper and lower gears should be opposite from each other. Here is an example , top gear will be + , and the lower gear will show -- , and a vertical line should match perfectly with each other. Replace all the rubber seals on the top cover and back cover. #4 The torque specs are as follows: B) Shift linkage cap screw with lock tight 271, 16.7 FT-LB C) Top Cap bolts with lock tight 271, 20 FT-LB D) Back cover bolts with lock tight 271, 20 FT-LB E) Shift Assembly nuts with lock tight 271, 80 LB-IN D) Measure the Retainer nut tool from the center of the Big side to the center of the square hole for the ratchet. Normally it measures 12 inches. Now measure your torque wrench from the center of the head (square) to the center of the handle. The following torque wrench lengths are in inches and torque specs are in foot pounds are as follows. 15 inches 111 ft lb 16 inches 114 ft lb 17 inches 117 ft lb 18 inches 120 ft lb 19 inches 123 ft lb 20 inches 125 ft lb 21 inches 129 ft lb 22 inches 131 ft lb 23 inches 131 ft lb 24 inches 133 ft lb 25 inches 135 ft lb 26 inches 136 ft lb 27 inches 138 ft lb 28 inches 140 ft lb 29 inches 141 ft lb 30 inches 143 ft lb 31 inches 144 ft lb 32 inches 145 ft lb 33 inches 147 ft lb 34 inches 148 ft lb 35 inches 149 ft lb 36 inches 150 ft lb E) After reassemble you should pressure test the unit, before refilling it with oil. I hope this information is helpful.

Thank you for the detailed video. I have a Bravo three on my 2001 sundeck that I just purchased. When I drained the oil from the stern drive it had metal shavings in it. Now I’m trying to build up the nerve to disassemble it and see if I can find the problem. I wish you had a video of a complete disassemble and reassemble of your drive. Your attention to detail definitely helps put me at ease when thinking about trying to tackle this problem on my own. Thanks for the video 🙏🏻

I have a 1 HP Vevor motor hooking up to a boat lift switch 120 volts, I have a red, orange, black, white, green wires coming from switch. The motor has T1 through T9 do you have a wiring diagram for this? Thank you!

Cement mix of any brand. It doesn't matter. Cement mix contains Portland Cement, sand and aggregate together in dry form in 60lb or 80 lb bags. Slowly mix water into the dry mix until you get a consistence you can work with.

Looks really good and so natural. Thanks for the video share. Question does it matter what kind of bagged cement ? Quickcreet ect? Thank you

dont mess with ur upstream o2 only downstream most likely theres a reason that ur cat clogged (prolly injectors) so get rid of ur cats and put the spacers on the downstream o2 sensors

I think vevor is a chinese manufacturer and they hire stateside customer service/sales reps. But their tech service answers are not helpful and (in my humble opinion) insulting to reasonably intelligent customers. I was VERY SPECIFIC in my request for info to them. They just gave me a flippant answer.

If the dude in California didn't know it could be that Vevor buys off brand Chinese motors and Vevor is just an order writer. Plus, they can't tell what application you have.

Glad you liked the vid. Happy i could help you.

❤🙏🌹

Where do you get your materials?

Bravo! Couldn't resist the pun. lol. What an awesome video. Your attention to detail is incredible. I have a 220 searay with the exact outdrive. Lately my son and I notice a slight delay before the drive engages. Especially when going from forward to reverse. Nothing crazy, but i suspect it will get worse. I mentioned a cone clutch replacement to my mechanic and he said it would be an 8K job! I've done a ton of work to my drive and engine in the last 2 years, so i suspect i can handle this one. Your video has given me the courage to tackle the project at the end of the season. Should i have any concerns about timing and/or setting clearances? Those comments scare me. I don't have any timing tools or specific clearance setting tools. I do have almost every other mercruiser specialty tool made however. LMFAO. (what a racket) 😁 Thanks for your time with this video. It has brought hope for our aging SeaRay! Cheers.

Jesus! Vilken bra och detaljerad förklaring. Kempegrejt 😃👍👍

Great video! Thanks for showing all the detail. Very helpful!

Is that the oil pressure wire.mine is broken ,so oil pressure light is constantly on.

Awesome video, thanks for saving me some money

Could you tell me how to do this with 115v

Great video

I'm not a mechanic, so I'm probably not the guy to suggest to you the failure or the fix. If your gear oil levels in your outdrive drop to critical levels, it could cause an immediate failure, though I believe cone clutches usually fail from wear over time. Without disassembly, you probably won't know what went wrong.

@conradts3338 i wonder if my cone clutch is bad. I was coming out of a no wake zone and went to throttle down and lost forward motion. The engine just revved. I checked everything and when i put it in foward gear, i can free spin the prop both ways. I took the caps off like you did and i see the shaft spinning in the cone when i spin the prop. Also when i drained the oil, i saw metal shavings.

You are the man! I just bought a Vevor 1.5hp for my boat lift and followed the directions. It raised the lift whether I triggered up or down with my Gemremotes controller. Your wiring diagram saved the day!

clear! thanks

I’m subscribed now. I’m very sorry that you lost so much from the salt water. Thoroughly disgusted I’m sure. Totally empathize . This video has motivated me to do my pathway from driveway to. You really did an amazing job. I detest those pavers from the big box stores. No character and totally over priced if you ask me. I think if I do a few stones a day it’s manageable even for me. I really like the idea of the flashing forms. Bend mold form however you want…. Great idea. I have a couple of questions if I may. Sooooo…… you cut into 4 inch thickness. 1. How long though? 2. On same note why 4 inches thick if you need but a couple of inches? 3. If I wanted to stamp the top of stones to mimic slate or whatever is there a way to do that with form still in place? 4. Again about stamping… would you still do the colorant the same way? 5. Do you think it’s necessary to dig out and put the sand underneath? 6. I understood about trying to make a bit drier when trying to meet the patio but typically do you mix it a bit wetter? 7. For reference can you give me the size - length and width of the three stones. Obviously not exactly but just an idea please. I can’t lift an 80 lbs bag so it will be the 50 kinda need to have an idea what to have on hand and mixed because I’ll have no help nor a mixer to speed things along.I like the idea of not having to add wire for strength. Most others on RUclips say you have to. I’m thinking I why? Surely a 2 inch slab would be strong enough to hold me and my Pomeranian hehehe. So anyway. Thank you in advance if you have the opportunity to answer my questions.

Glad you liked it! Thanks.

Not even worth watching!!!

Yup. No room for anything!

This starter is used on a lot of GM engines. IDK. Maybe Ford too. The starter is in a box in my garage. Maybe rebuilding is in its furure.

I think this is either a ford starter, or a chevy, and i believe there are complete rebuild kits for these starters, from brushes to hard part's. Always good ro have a spare

Heat and beat my man, a grinder won't dew much good here.

...and now the new starter turns the engine over with great gusto! Yay.

Two things in case you decide to do this on your own: 1) make sure not to bugger up the o-ring as you assemble. 2) torque your castle nut to 200 ft. Lbs. (I think I said 120 in the vid.) You do this by setting your torque wrench to 130 ft-lbs because you'll be attached to your specialty wrench out some distance from the center of your castle nut/shaft. Good luck!

Thank you for doing this video. As of yesterday I have a leaking bravo 3 in the bellows area. Still investigating.

Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that. I just read the DTC code on my scanner but you've got a point - easy check first.

This boat was repowered by the previous owner 130 hours ago...and the starter went bad?!! Jeez! I'm no mechanic but I couldn't get a socket on that bolt and a 13mm open was sloppy. That 1/2" 12-point fit well. I watch a lot of mechanics on RUclips and I'm in awe of what they do and...NO...I can't imagine doing this every day. I hope this starter last FOREVER! LOL. thanks for the advice!

You CAN have them rebuilt at a starter shop. And, YES you can get socket on the outside bolt. And, yes the half inch socket fits but it is fact 13mm. How would you like to have to go thru BS this everyday?

Wow. Thanks for the helpful tip.

If you want to make feet it doesn't have to be part of the planter they can be separate. You can use throw away plastic cups and fill them with mortar to the height that you want and break away the plastic. Or fill a ice cube tray with mortar and tip them out and you got loads of feet

Very good info and video. Thank you

Good news! I DID get my it off with difficulty. I'll make another vid showing what/how I did it. Thanks for your offer, though. I wish you were my neighbor!

Bet you 1000 dollars I can have that starter off in less than 2 min. !!

1. I was looking through my manual for something else yesterday and saw that the torque for the cap and back plate screws should be 18-22 ft-lbs. 2. What finally fixed my shift problem is replacing the cable from the helm to the engine. It seems that years of activity caused a groove or pocket between the sheath and the inner cable causing the bind when shifting into forward. (I had previously forced oil through the existing cable by putting a slightly larger tube 4" long over the sheath with a hose clamp, filling w oil, and using compressed air to force it in but... the new cable was the ticket to success.

...and i think i read your question wrong. I think the proper torque for the cap ans back is 35 ft-lbs.

That very unpleasant thought has crossed my mind 😢

what was the torque you tighted the screws to at the end?

Sounds bad, but you may have to pull the engine...

Your design looks very good. However I a concerned that you only used screws to hold it together. Bolts with back plates would give you a much longer life of the dock.

Looks like you just need a small clamp to keep the forms in place. Saves time.

You've done beautifully. You just helped me solve a paving need I have in 2 locations at my house and it si affordable Thank you! 😊

This was really interesting and helpful , thank you Stuart in Ireland ☘️ Ps I have a bravo X drive

I am usually much more vigilant about things like weight of concrete. I can't believe that I missed that before I started pouring the concrete. The story about your dog is very funny. Thanks for sharing.