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Glad you liked the vid. Happy i could help you.

❤🙏🌹

Where do you get your materials?

Bravo! Couldn't resist the pun. lol. What an awesome video. Your attention to detail is incredible. I have a 220 searay with the exact outdrive. Lately my son and I notice a slight delay before the drive engages. Especially when going from forward to reverse. Nothing crazy, but i suspect it will get worse. I mentioned a cone clutch replacement to my mechanic and he said it would be an 8K job! I've done a ton of work to my drive and engine in the last 2 years, so i suspect i can handle this one. Your video has given me the courage to tackle the project at the end of the season. Should i have any concerns about timing and/or setting clearances? Those comments scare me. I don't have any timing tools or specific clearance setting tools. I do have almost every other mercruiser specialty tool made however. LMFAO. (what a racket) 😁 Thanks for your time with this video. It has brought hope for our aging SeaRay! Cheers.

Jesus! Vilken bra och detaljerad förklaring. Kempegrejt 😃👍👍

Great video! Thanks for showing all the detail. Very helpful!

Is that the oil pressure wire.mine is broken ,so oil pressure light is constantly on.

Awesome video, thanks for saving me some money

Could you tell me how to do this with 115v

Great video

I'm not a mechanic, so I'm probably not the guy to suggest to you the failure or the fix. If your gear oil levels in your outdrive drop to critical levels, it could cause an immediate failure, though I believe cone clutches usually fail from wear over time. Without disassembly, you probably won't know what went wrong.

@conradts3338 i wonder if my cone clutch is bad. I was coming out of a no wake zone and went to throttle down and lost forward motion. The engine just revved. I checked everything and when i put it in foward gear, i can free spin the prop both ways. I took the caps off like you did and i see the shaft spinning in the cone when i spin the prop. Also when i drained the oil, i saw metal shavings.

You are the man! I just bought a Vevor 1.5hp for my boat lift and followed the directions. It raised the lift whether I triggered up or down with my Gemremotes controller. Your wiring diagram saved the day!

clear! thanks

I’m subscribed now. I’m very sorry that you lost so much from the salt water. Thoroughly disgusted I’m sure. Totally empathize . This video has motivated me to do my pathway from driveway to. You really did an amazing job. I detest those pavers from the big box stores. No character and totally over priced if you ask me. I think if I do a few stones a day it’s manageable even for me. I really like the idea of the flashing forms. Bend mold form however you want…. Great idea. I have a couple of questions if I may. Sooooo…… you cut into 4 inch thickness. 1. How long though? 2. On same note why 4 inches thick if you need but a couple of inches? 3. If I wanted to stamp the top of stones to mimic slate or whatever is there a way to do that with form still in place? 4. Again about stamping… would you still do the colorant the same way? 5. Do you think it’s necessary to dig out and put the sand underneath? 6. I understood about trying to make a bit drier when trying to meet the patio but typically do you mix it a bit wetter? 7. For reference can you give me the size - length and width of the three stones. Obviously not exactly but just an idea please. I can’t lift an 80 lbs bag so it will be the 50 kinda need to have an idea what to have on hand and mixed because I’ll have no help nor a mixer to speed things along.I like the idea of not having to add wire for strength. Most others on RUclips say you have to. I’m thinking I why? Surely a 2 inch slab would be strong enough to hold me and my Pomeranian hehehe. So anyway. Thank you in advance if you have the opportunity to answer my questions.

Glad you liked it! Thanks.

Not even worth watching!!!

Yup. No room for anything!

This starter is used on a lot of GM engines. IDK. Maybe Ford too. The starter is in a box in my garage. Maybe rebuilding is in its furure.

I think this is either a ford starter, or a chevy, and i believe there are complete rebuild kits for these starters, from brushes to hard part's. Always good ro have a spare

Heat and beat my man, a grinder won't dew much good here.

...and now the new starter turns the engine over with great gusto! Yay.

Two things in case you decide to do this on your own: 1) make sure not to bugger up the o-ring as you assemble. 2) torque your castle nut to 200 ft. Lbs. (I think I said 120 in the vid.) You do this by setting your torque wrench to 130 ft-lbs because you'll be attached to your specialty wrench out some distance from the center of your castle nut/shaft. Good luck!

Thank you for doing this video. As of yesterday I have a leaking bravo 3 in the bellows area. Still investigating.

Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that. I just read the DTC code on my scanner but you've got a point - easy check first.

This boat was repowered by the previous owner 130 hours ago...and the starter went bad?!! Jeez! I'm no mechanic but I couldn't get a socket on that bolt and a 13mm open was sloppy. That 1/2" 12-point fit well. I watch a lot of mechanics on RUclips and I'm in awe of what they do and...NO...I can't imagine doing this every day. I hope this starter last FOREVER! LOL. thanks for the advice!

You CAN have them rebuilt at a starter shop. And, YES you can get socket on the outside bolt. And, yes the half inch socket fits but it is fact 13mm. How would you like to have to go thru BS this everyday?

Wow. Thanks for the helpful tip.

If you want to make feet it doesn't have to be part of the planter they can be separate. You can use throw away plastic cups and fill them with mortar to the height that you want and break away the plastic. Or fill a ice cube tray with mortar and tip them out and you got loads of feet

Very good info and video. Thank you

Good news! I DID get my it off with difficulty. I'll make another vid showing what/how I did it. Thanks for your offer, though. I wish you were my neighbor!

Bet you 1000 dollars I can have that starter off in less than 2 min. !!

1. I was looking through my manual for something else yesterday and saw that the torque for the cap and back plate screws should be 18-22 ft-lbs. 2. What finally fixed my shift problem is replacing the cable from the helm to the engine. It seems that years of activity caused a groove or pocket between the sheath and the inner cable causing the bind when shifting into forward. (I had previously forced oil through the existing cable by putting a slightly larger tube 4" long over the sheath with a hose clamp, filling w oil, and using compressed air to force it in but... the new cable was the ticket to success.

...and i think i read your question wrong. I think the proper torque for the cap ans back is 35 ft-lbs.

That very unpleasant thought has crossed my mind 😢

what was the torque you tighted the screws to at the end?

Sounds bad, but you may have to pull the engine...

Your design looks very good. However I a concerned that you only used screws to hold it together. Bolts with back plates would give you a much longer life of the dock.

Looks like you just need a small clamp to keep the forms in place. Saves time.

You've done beautifully. You just helped me solve a paving need I have in 2 locations at my house and it si affordable Thank you! 😊

This was really interesting and helpful , thank you Stuart in Ireland ☘️ Ps I have a bravo X drive

I am usually much more vigilant about things like weight of concrete. I can't believe that I missed that before I started pouring the concrete. The story about your dog is very funny. Thanks for sharing.

The weight that you need to put in the inner container is the same as the weight of the concrete that it displaces. That is easy enough to calculate by taking measurements on the inner container... It's basically a truncated cone and there is a formula for it... That will give you the volume of the truncated cone and multiplying that by the density of wet concrete (about 156 lbs/cu-ft) will give you the weight that needs to be in the inner container... Even though you put bricks in the inner container, there was still a lot of air space in there... You could have added pea gravel and water to fill out the inner container... I used to have a dog that was always turning over or destroying his water bowl... I would try new ideas to prevent it and he would be able to overcome them... I refused to be outsmarted by a damn dog, so I built a water container out of concrete... It was a hollow cube shape and also ended up around 200 lbs... I had won the battle and he was not able to knock it over or destroy it... And later I realized how difficult it is to move a cube of concrete by hand... Cubes don't really roll that well... :(

I am getting intimately acquainted with my outdrive. Far more than i care to say. 😮😂

Well done Conrad. But, where is the video of you doing it all over again to reset the oil seal carrier. Lol.. don't feel bad, I have made some shitty mistakes doing mechanical work too.The air gets real blue quickly when I have those moments. Like I said earlier, well done and thanks for the very informative video.

Thanks for the tips. I just thought this would be a really easy project which proved false. Next time will be better.

Thanks for the compliment. I will use it. Truly a difficult project.

Thanks for the advice!

i have done one slightly smaller, to keep the smaller bucket in place drill 2 lines through the sides of (towards the top) both buckets, then but some sticks or rods or wire through the holes so it makes an x. alternativly pour it upsidedown (that way you have to make extrasure the inner bucket does not lift.

Try doing upside down, cut bottom off big one to fill.