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If it works that's good. Remember this camera was designed in 1979 for Alkaline batteries as NiMH and Nickel- Cadmium weren't too common back then. Also they have a lower voltage of 1.25V instead of 1.5V per cell. NiMH is much better now in terms of electrical current. Current is important on this old machine as over time the mechanism tends to be harder to drive due to wear over the year and grease drying up etc... Just a lot of the issues I've had with the 5-6 Autoboys where they'd getting out of sync and stopping half through the film were issues with weak batteries.

It shouldn't make much of a difference but you should test it with times for 3,4,5,6 minutes to see which gives you the best print

Oh my goodness, Tony Hart that that's me back! Yeah, the packaging worked surprisingly well

I use sheet film 4x5" from Ilford (FP+ 125) in a tin, sprayed black in the inside - you can see the camera and etc in this video ruclips.net/video/vAHIbF0goG4/видео.html Thanks for asking btw. Hope that helps!

Thank you! Nothing too special a Canon 9000F.

Thank you! I'm hoping to finish my Nikon F65 video soon. Cheap camera but not nasty at all :-)

You are welcome!, I've whole playlist of video on Cyanotype if you are interested - ruclips.net/p/PLJF8ZxdlGPT7zUdYDf5FnScsT_LmNi475

I may do it, in a software update to keep the build simple. Thank you for the suggestion.

@@GavinLyonsCreates Hi Gavin, in my world (I grew up pre ZX Spectrum) the switch is the simplest solution!!

@@timfromtang ah you're showing your age, ha. I grow up with a BBC model B and ZX81

@@GavinLyonsCreates I still print with an "analyser" from RH designs built in the 90's. a great yoke as far as I can tell, still working away, his newer ones are somewhat more sophisticated I understand. I do like a good solid switch.

Thank you so much!

Frank Zappa played a bicycle once so might try that next :-)

That doesn't sound good. Probably the batteries have corroded inside the camera. Quite difficult to repair that. You could try some WD40 spray to loosen it up

@@GavinLyonsCreates Wondering if I should just ask for my money back, at this point the camera will be a parts camera.

According to my blog post, it was a while ago - "I used Rodinal 1:50 dilute and developed for 15 minutes with my Spinmatic device." gavinlyons.photography/svema-film-and-foto-65-shooting-expired-film-from-1989/ Hope that helps :-)

Check that there's no corrosion on the battery connections inside the camera and ensure to use fresh alkaline batteries, that might help

Thank you that so kind to hear that. Any tip, try for portraits too!

That's a great use also for it! Thanks!

Ah but I miss peel apart, oh well.

I appreciate that!

There is a fun camera for sure

This is what we did : Place 600-700ml of water into a clean glass or plastic pitcher. Use a clean plastic stir stick or the TCS-1000 to circulate the liquid. While circulating, add the contents of the powder packet. Top-off solution with water to make 1000ml. Mix well. Store mixed solution in a tightly capped, completely filled storage container for up to 2-6 weeks. Yellows with age and turns amber when perished. Oxygen and contaminants cause developing agents to perish. Warm-Tone Development: 1+1 Dilution ~ 9 min. 15 sec. at 104°f (40°C) Hope that helps!

@@GavinLyonsCreates thank you very much for the feedback. Then it’s clear: 50% stock solution and 50% water all at 40 Celsius, right at the moment for development. Keep it up 👍

Hi there, To start out I'd use a 100 ISO or 400 ISO film. If you haven't developed film before, then stick with a color film from Kodak or Fujifilm. This way you can find a place easier to develop the film and make print for you. Most countries in the world still develop color film while B&W film is always a bit more challenging to find a lab that will do it for you. Then load up and keep an eye on the light meter in the camera to see if your exposure is correct. Aperture wise 5.6 or 8 is a good place to start. Ensure to set the film DIN (ISO) up on the camera so that the light meter works correctly. The manual for the camera can still be downloaded from www.cameramanuals.org/zeiss_ikon/zeiss_ikon_contaflex_super-02.pdf Hope that helps, have fun shooting Gavin

I hope it will turn out well! Best of luck.

Thanks, I've updated the link in the description.

@@GavinLyonsCreates Thank you! will there be any further development?

@@someoneunnamed6400 sure once I things are less busier around here ;-) idea can't be found on my blog gavinlyons.photography/darkroom-timer-3/

@@GavinLyonsCreates Thanks you're great ! I can be the tester for this project :)

Thank you so much! The 4x5" negatives will certainly make an appearance once again in print form. I hope in the next video or even in Lith process!

I wouldn't be surprised. Recently life been a bit hectic between family commitments and work. Will try better next time.

@@GavinLyonsCreates No worries. Good luck with everything!

Yep, can be so! Normally I'm luckier

Can be the sensor is blocked or dirty. There are two of them at the top of the camera. You'll need to open it up and have a look. Hope that helps.

@@GavinLyonsCreatesthey look pretty clean. I have not opened the camera up yet. So I guess that’s the next step!

Maybe for you. For me that works zero per cent of the time one hundred per cent of the time. In fact the only time i do calculations is when i feel like looking at how wildly inaccurate they are. I love my pinhole but if i was to go on calculated value rather than feel it'd be even more like throwing money out the window than it is now. But if it works with what you're using, fair play

I measure and calculate from f16 - because this is what the "sunny-16-rule" gives me (if I don't have a light meter at hand ;-)). Since I use precision drilled pinholes and know the distance to the film, I have the necessary multipliers at hand (made actually some cheat-cards). And I do have cheat-cards for reciprocity failure. Works perfectly fine, but needs a bit of preparation and math beforehand … ;-)

Thank you! The glass is to hold the negative in place, to keep it registered to the paper.

Thank you for the answer. will a clear plastic from a picture frame do the job or will it interfere with the UV light?@@GavinLyonsCreates

@@yuval6354 Plate glass is nice and heavy to keep things fixed. I bought a piece in IKEA for a couple euros in the leftovers/reurns area. You can always use a picture frame also, to keep it tight between the paper and neg.

Not yet, I'm hoping to redo the enclosure. Just quite busy at the moment. I'm open for takers to do it though :-D

Absolutely true!

Thanks Mike - Absolutely! Admittedly I have never done VDB over Cyanotype or vice versa. It will definitely be in an up coming video.

Yes, it should work too.

Hi Alexey, Thank you so much! I hope to do another Lith episode soon. I'm working on some Cyanotype and Pinhole stuff at the moment.

Thanks for your comment. I keep coming back to that camera, the mirror lock maybe a pain but as a camera it just works.

Hi Mitya, Sorry for delay, I've updated the link to the store, however currently I don't have any enclosures made up at the moment. As I wish to make an improved to the code and add some new features. Gavin

Thank you for your answer. Can’t wait when you finish the new version and put it up for sale. I’m definitely going to buy it. Good luck!