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Is he saying Tetra-byte instead of Tera-byte?

glad i came across your video. this is similar to what i want to do next but with the m2 case.

Late comment but I did something similar in my T1 after seeing this video, thanks for the inspiration it came out great!

I5⏰4460 GPU IS COLD！AND YOU WENT TO TRYING RE-BOOTS GPU TO SIGNAL.

Can you maybe do a review on the MORA 4 600? Theres no reviews at this point in time to be found and i think youre the right channel to do the first. Maybe also try it in a DDC and D5 config see what works best and with what noise levels, you could try and see how far you could push an 14900KS with overclocking and well everything performs. Would be insanely interesting for me to see and, probably not just for me.

Does this card have vapor chambe r?

Great video, I feel like I could actually do this now.

silent my ass, pump noise? did you put the radiator in the adjacent room?

Are you still using it this way? Any side effects so far? Any gpu sag?

Evo 011 huh, never seen anything done in this case before. Groundbreaking!

Would you be able to make a budget version of this build? Including a Mo-Ra as well.

Bro I've been wanting to try watercooling my GPU but it's really hard to find a water block for my FE 1080.

I believe that it could be helpfull to have different colors for each block and then have a slight tone variation for different scenarios like here between balanced and max . Great testing non the less . Watercool killing it with the V Ultra !

Great video

I'm getting the Optimus v3 for my cpu but they don't supply a water block for my 4080 super. I'm trying to find the best performing block for my gpu

No EK?

This is almost perfect video. Although I would have highlighted the need of a good quality biocide AND corrosion inhibitor. Don’t think you can get away with only DI water/biocide, a silver coil or premix coolant. Corrosion is the number one issue that isn’t communicated enough in beginner guides. Corrosion inhibitor is essential to prevent minerals (in particular nickel plating) diffusing into the water due to the imbalance.

Don't forget the GPU retention bracket from the original cooler.

You could say he's using bottom of the Barrow parts.

I was doing some research into a similar build and saw that Watercool just unveiled the MO-RA IV! Are you considering testing out the new series with the integrated pump + res, the passive control, and all the other features once they're in stock?

Great video, but watercooling anything other than the 4090 is foolishness. That's money that should be invested into upgrading the system, not adding a redundant watercooling system to inferior hardware that operates fine without it.

Wait, u leave that noctua “paste guard” thin piece of plastic on there??? Yoo wtf? Lol

Hello. I bought the watercool heatkiller v ultra for the 4090 FE. Does it come in the PRO version box? Because that is what mine came in..

TOP tier testing... great stuff.

you can allow the card to draw up to 350w if you change the power setting in 3d options on nvcontrol panel

Hello Just a quick question, because I'm amazed at what I see here. What radiator and fan did you use to cool this GPU?? 🙄

Do you have any benchmarks with just the internal 280mm rad running both CPU and GPU workloads at the same time? Also, what was your water temp during these tests (internal rad only)?

Tbh I'm in the middle of installing the tuf 4070 bykski block and compared to ekwb this block as of now is terrible for clarity in install. Luckily, I have experience. But the paste seams ultra thick. So I'm going to have to buy new stuff tomorrow to continue. But what I don't like is the led connection does not connect to the rgb on the board.

small form factor Big ass radiator, all you need to do is run the radiator out side a window.

I just wanted to thank you for making this video. Most build videos spend all their time talking extensively about unimportant things and then just time-lapse through the actual loop building portion. Your video is exactly what i was looking for because you show the construction of the loop itself. The only things missing are design considerations (like putting the pump and a drain at the lowest water level) and tightening all the blanking plugs and the fittings, but that would make a good follow up video - you can call it "best practices for water cooling" and go over things like radiator placement, fan selection, radiator sizing, loop routing, tips and tricks etc.

Fantastic video, you are killing it, deserve so many more views from pc builderd

The usage of flexible tubing with quick disconnects is genius.

Martinez Sharon Clark Dorothy Moore Sandra

Congrats on 3k subscribers🎉

I have a dream. A watercooling dream. Clear soft tubing. Direct pathways, least resistance. Ahh...

Wait... copper and aluminum?? I had read that you should not mix alloys??

I don't understand how you compare. The video card should work at the same frequency and you just change the water blocks and compare (at the same coolant temperature). And the last thing - Overclocking below 3000 for Asus Strix RTX 4090 is ridiculous. Real overclocking is 3060 at 1.1v and power of 600 W (or better yet, install a 1 kW BIOS from Asus). This is just kindergarten, man. Or buy 4090 HOF

How do you drain the water from the case loop? Do you simply just connect a soft tube to one of the QDCs at the rear and drain?

Hi Thank you for your work in this video. you save me from going in an extreme mode, with an aquarium chiller lol. I am extremely surprised, the temperatures in game, without the mo-ra. Have you done a test, without the radiator and the pump in the PC, just with the mo-ra and the pump placed on it?? If this is not the case, technically, could this type of assembly pose a problem??

Your custom-loop video made me want to try it. I'm very easy to understand, even though I'm Korean, thanks to your narration that explains it easily. I think it's by far the number one custom water cooling RUclips video I've been watching so far. Thank you so much. Meanwhile, I have a question. Is there any problem with using two pumps with different specifications? I wonder if the performance of the external d5 pump is caused by the internal ddc bottleneck or does not adversely affect the lifespan of the pump.

could someone help me? Can I put 16/12 EKWB fittings on an alphacool core 1? Or won't I be able to screw them in?

How did you remove the jetplate/jetblock from the Alphacool Core at 03:15? Tried to clean my finns, but the jetblock is either very tight or glued in, it doesn't move a bit 🤷

While the budget liquid cooling system displayed in this video is very well thought-out, well executed, and the guide extremely well produced, I cannot in good conscience recommend spending custom liquid cooling money when you could easily use that money to upgrade your computer's components for enhanced performance. unless (and specifically unless), you're using top end components, I can't recommend doing a custom liquid cooling loop (unless you're trying to cram a bunch of parts into a really tiny case or something and you need a unified small cooling system or something). for example, the $345 spent on this loop could have been spent moving from a 3080 to a 3090 which would yield SIGNIFICANT gains (particularly to gaming and rendering workloads), or perhaps depending on what's available in your area you could have gone from a 3080 to a 4080 (or even 4080 super)(especially if you were to shop around on the used market). Further, the gpu that you're cooling here is ALREADY equipped with an aio. unless the integrated liquid cooler has failed (in which case you can pick up a gpu with a failed aio on ebay or something for SUPER cheap and this WOULD be a fantastic way to get it up and running again), it's very unlikely that you are going to get any additional performance out of this card by going from the stock liquid cooler solution to the one depicted. and an i5 could easily be upgraded to an i7, or imo better, not buying the i5 or it's board and going instead with a used b450 board and a ryzen 7 5800x3d which uses around the same power (very efficient) and depending on the game, can be almost as performant as a i7-13900. AND because it's a low power chip (as is the i5 shown in this video), it doesn't really need liquid cooling to get the best performance out of it either, in which case, I would go for something like a (preferably used) noctua nh-d15 (which has the capacity to cool way higher tdp chips than either of these for about $110 retail (or about $70 on ebay) or you could go with a less expensive $30 tower cooler such as the aged but very functional cooler master hyper 212 or similar. tl;dr: this is a fantastic video on budget liquid cooling, but PLEASE don't build a liquid cooling loop if the cost of that loop could be used for getting you better performing components (preferably the highest end components that make sense for your application and budget. also, given that 4090 air coolers are almost universally overengineered (temps on them are fantastic and they're voltage limited NOT power limited so you can't really make them hotter to improve performance) I don't generally recommend cooling 4090's which at the time of the writing of this comment is the highest end card you can get for consumer use. I'll also note as a pro tip, because those arctic fans are so good and work so well (I use them myself), AND they're daisy chainable (which is a great feature), I would probably recommend doing push/pull (installing 3 fans on either side of that 360 rad) as working together you'll either get lower noise (because they perform better with more of them) or higher performance with more noise if you max them out and because they are so inexpensive, it's a very cheap way to improve performance of a loop like this one. Also as radiators aren't THAT expensive, and if you're running a modern high performance gpu in your loop that can pull 350-450w, installing a second rad at the top of the case ALSO with push/pull fans could make sense as well if you have the budget. the more radiator volume and the more fans you have, the higher the performance and the quieter the sound from the system (because the fans don't have to work as hard to keep the loop at the intended coolant temp. - which brings me to fan curve tuning. it may require added expense (either by using a fan controller with temp probes, (or sometimes nicer motherboards will come with pluggable temp probes as well), but you need to be able to set your fans by the temperature of the COOLANT, NOT by the temperature of your cooled components. particularly on cpus and gpus that have difficulty transferring heat to their thermal solution. (for example, I just upgraded to a 9950x and because of the thicc ihs, the temp of the cpu can ramp pretty high despite being well cooled and the coolant temp not increasing all that quickly. - it hasn't hit thermal throttling range so I think i'll leave it alone, but I've thought a little bit about de-lidding my cpu and getting a direct contact frame which could improve thermal transfer from cpu into my loop, decreasing temperatures overall.

This guide is really clear, will you do an updated ITX build similar to this for the MORA IV series?

Hi, great video as before, i wanted to ask if it's possible to contact you privately? And if yes, how.

Awesome video man, will take advice from this to build my own and my girlfriends

DO NOT BUY THIS WATERBLOCO, THE PERFORMANFE IS DOG *. Almost 10 degree difference compared to competition. I have this in my system and I am crying

i fucking want it now i gotta spend my whole live savings

step 1 : rich

Something I dont understand is why buy a ROG strix model card thats known for its cooling features for the extra price just to disamble it and put a waterblock on it anyways