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Thanks a lot.

I had the same one, but from Alecto. The problem is that after 2 years the plastic has become completely brittle and is falling apart

I can see in video the laser assembly not moving. In my experience repairing many abandoned drives, the slides get dry and laser assembly either doesn't move or sticks. I lube these with slight amount 3 in 1 and in 90% cases fixes issue ( along with cleaning laser, belt on tray etc.....) It is rarely the electronics or the laser itself.

What model is that alarm?

Old Philips radiogram, probably made in Hendon SA. Worth keeping as a valve amp for playing your phone through, or modding to a guitar amp. Has push-pull 6M5 pentodes, a bit better than the average radio of the day.

If it has tubes or transistors, and just the usual age-related issues, but is not rusty or damaged, it's worth a look for possible repair. 😎 I admire your patience and attention to detail in these vintage electronics videos. * subbed * 👍👍

I've realigned the entire machine after I had a problem with the p5 arm being out of align. Been great doing it. From the STOP position all the steps to PLAY are working. Sadly though I can't get the bliddy carriage fitted properly, I've fitted it in the down position, screw it up and when I fire the solenoid nothing happens and the loading gear is not turning, whether it's the carriage or the fact the rack gear is not aligned . If I take the carriage out then loading gear works, do the screws have to be the exact size and can there be too much old grease causing an issue ? How do you manually return the carriage to the up position from the down just to make sure it hasn't seized? since I don't want to force anything since they're quite flimsy.

My neighbour gave me a small drill press that had stopped working , I was going to pinch the drive belt off it. Opening the belt cover I found it had switch under it that fallen out of alignment. I adjusted it and worked again and give it back to her.

Awesome explanation. I bought one of these from Amazon, but they hardly explain the wiring. This video helps a lot. Thanks for sharing

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On the up side it will run intermittently 🙂

Where are you located in Australia?

Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom! When I press my play button all the way down into locked position, no sound comes out, even though everything looks like it's running normally, but when the button is MOST of the way down (before locking) it DOES play the cassette. What would cause that to happen? I'll be overjoyed if I can fix it.

I didn't watch the whole thing. Does it include the problem of cassette player auto shutoff malfunctioning? A tape will only play a second or 2, then the play button pops up. And holding it down just makes it trigger the auto stop . All tapes do it, even if there is no tape. I am planning on taking the Boombox apart again. (Before i replaced a slipping belt). You can see this plastic think moving back and forth under the heads and capstan. I believe that's the part that triggers the auto stop. In all modes, I believe.

I have two of these Telecom 200 phones - one is the standard type as shown in the beginning of this video, the other is a "sensor-pad" model (no raised keys).

Τhanks for the video mate. Exactly like yours, it was in the storage when it stopped reading CDs.

bin

Hi, I have a black AA-1020 and it has some blown lamps in it, what are the options to replace these with. When going with original it is 12 volts I think but how much amps And when improving the overall lighting on the dial face, what are other options, can you help me out please I have for other units the same issue as well, a Kenwood KT-2001 tuner, Sansui AU-D77X button lights and a Yamaha CR-810

Can you do one on the doorman cone light please I can’t figure out how to undo mine

Hi Steve, This machine probably only needs descaling. When there is lime in the heating element, heat transfer is poor and the temperature of the coffee becomes lower. And FYI: the water goes from the water tank (which is on the back of the machine), through the flow meter (that white thing), through the pump to the heating element. The heating element and pump are easy to remove and descale. You can even overhaul the pump. I have a video on RUclips of me overhauling the pump. So if you want you can most likely still save this machine. 😉 Cheers, Marc.

not reccomend that it has a weak bass

Yeah these late Chinese DVD players are basically all the same, the parts are generally interchangeable and the laser is generally a clone of a Sanyo SF-HD150 or similar (often labelled differently but they're all cross compatible). This means they're extremely cheap to replace but the question is, is it worth it. And yes, the laser is indeed shared with most of the ones built into TVs although the mechs are different. I recently scrapped one very similar to this (Bush branded, which had HDMI out but otherwise identical I think) purely because I had lost the remote and replacements were not economically available. I transferred the mech into a Sansui-branded "CD player" from a DAB/networked micro hifi where the CD was still working but the transport had disintegrated due to the cheap plastics decomposing and becoming brittle. That's the kind of quality we're dealing with here 😂

I thought the same thing, but I tackled the job on my own. What the hell, it's already broken. What can you ruin? It's not hard; you can do it. This was the second HP laptop I had to do. Make sure it is on a clear desk or table. Need a tray or bowl, or sheet of paper for tiny screws. Be careful keeping an eye on which screws go where in different sizes. Lap top folded place bottom up. Gently take the screws out and place them in a place that remembers where they are from. One laptop had screws under that rubber strip, which had to peel off. It doesn't go back on after the job, but it doesn't affect the laptop's working. Screws out, gently pry the lid up with a tiny screwdriver. It works best if you start from behind the hinge; it takes more force than you think. Could you take a photo with your phone to reference how to go back together? It's a flat silver bar that holds on the touchpad on the frame; please remove that. Wire ribbons are clipped on, a little clamp flips up, and the end of the ribbon pulls out. Could you check RUclips on how? Top edge of touchpad just taped on, gently pull up tape off back of touchpad self. Do it in reverse with a new touchpad. Sandpaper the edges of the new or even old touchpad because the binding of those edges in the laptop hole makes the touchpad hang up. It may not need a new pad; sandpaper the old plastic edges on the old one a little at the steal bar half-apart stage. If you buy a touchpad, use something other than Amazon; they always send the wrong part. Some small laptop part sites have new original parts at better prices and send you the right ones.

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Jjzkz

My P45 is still going strong despite heaps of DX in years gone by. The CRT is still bright and has good contrast.

What is the meter you use to measure the capacitors is it for ESR ? thanks looks very handy especially when you don't waste time just changing all the capacitors when some might be working ok.

Omg. I thought mine was broken and was preparing to redo the entire circuit, but I didn't know about the light sensor. It turns out it works perfectly fine :)) Thanks for the video, I love you <3

We clean the heads with a piece of paper soaked in e.g. ipa. We put it on the drum and rotate the drum with the heads.

16:49 - This mechanism from the Sharp WQ-267Z (Tape 2)! The same buttons form, same the chrome color.

I actually had a manual version back in the mid 90s. Instead of the door flipping open, it slid out. The door itself was connected to the internal gearing. Sliding it down pulled the rollers down. Insert the VHS C cassette, then pushing the door up to close it also spread the rollers (and tape) up and out inside the adapter. The battery ones were much more fascinating though! 😁

Random question..... Why did some VCRs use the elevator style of pinch roller? Just seems like added complexity. Was there an advantage?

Sharp had some interesting innovations back then. Some better than others obviously. My favorite though was the "Auto Reverse" turntable. Basically a linear tracking tone arm that traveled across the record, did a u turn and played the other side of the record without having to flip it over.

Great description. I faced a similar issue of the pump coming on intermittently, after multiple switching on and off the pump starts. Changed the 1 micro farad capacitor, and the problem was solved.

Hi, friend! Do you know what its the VR «bias» adjustment on player CD's?. Thank you, good videos!

just clip the aligator to the matt

Supernaut appeared on Countdown in 1976 but didn't last long (the band broke up around 1980 or thereabouts). I used to own a cassette copy of their self-titled album and from memory it sounded like someone recorded most of it in a bathtub.

You mentioned NV-370 - this wasn't the best performing model. I owned a couple of those in the late '90s and both had exactly the same fault - dead capstan motor. Notoriously unreliable. The capstan motor was not obtainable as a new part so I ended up binning both 370's.

I have the KA-910 push button channel selection model of this Philips set which I bought 14 years ago for $10 (Cash Converters) - it worked last time I tested it, and it still has the price sticker on the top.

The CA-W80 has auto reverse in both tape decks. Wouldn't it be awesome if the CA-W75 had one auto reverse deck like the National RX-CW43? (in that model, the playback deck has auto reverse but the recording deck doesn't).

I recommend removing the auto head cleaner when servicing one of these (if present) - that will damage the drum. The last Panasonic to use the Z-Mechanism was the NV-FJ600A and was also one of their first VCR's to feature Super LP. 😇 Panasonic did make a NV-HD650 but it used a K-Mechanism and the casing was black/dark grey in colour. Made in Japan = quality back then. 😎

Never seen a red one!

Before I even watched more than 5 minutes of the video I already had a rough idea as to why that National has noisy capstans. A common issue. I've repaired a few decks with this very problem. In this type of mechanism it is caused by the spring-loaded pause lever which sits directly under the capstan flywheel, the plastic retaining cap cracks and works loose with age, causing the lever to push up and rub against it. A simple fix if all the parts are present. 😎

Where is the repair? Just a replacement. A 15 minutes task and you took 40, damn