- Видео 4
- Просмотров 78 148
tinfever
Добавлен 19 авг 2010
DIY 10kW (30kW Pulse) Electronic Load
An overview of the 10kW continuous and 30kW pulsed electronic load I've been building, and submitted for the Hackaday Prize 2023.
This design uses an array of switched high-power chassis-mount resistors to produce any arbitrary load. This approach provides extreme scalability, low-cost, and high robustness. While simple in principle, the sheer scale and need for high frequency pulses make this a challenging design.
For more information, please see my project log: hackaday.io/project/191642-10kw-30kw-pulse-electronic-load
#HackadayPrize
This design uses an array of switched high-power chassis-mount resistors to produce any arbitrary load. This approach provides extreme scalability, low-cost, and high robustness. While simple in principle, the sheer scale and need for high frequency pulses make this a challenging design.
For more information, please see my project log: hackaday.io/project/191642-10kw-30kw-pulse-electronic-load
#HackadayPrize
Просмотров: 2 401
Видео
Electronic Load Demo
Просмотров 409Год назад
A brief demo of a prototype for my electronic load project targeting 10kW continuous / 30kW peak. The version shown is just the proof of concept, not the full size version. The sine wave mode is probably useless and just looks cool. It'll be even better when I finish the code to give it a faster update rate, and with more stages giving finer resolution. Even with the 6 stages in it right now, I...
FU-Dyson-BMS - (Unofficial) Firmware Upgrade for Dyson V6/V7 Vacuum Battery Management System
Просмотров 75 тыс.2 года назад
In this video I demonstrate and walk through the installation process of the replacement firmware I developed for the V6 and V7 Dyson Cordless Vacuum batteries. This firmware eliminates the "feature" in the factory Dyson firmware where the battery will permanently stop working if the cells ever go too far out of balance. It also provides several new LED codes so you can monitor the health of yo...
1993 Subaru Impreza - Mystery Popping Sound in Dash - Can you identify it?
Просмотров 3668 лет назад
This is my attempt to record the popping sound my 1993 Subaru Impreza is making that I am trying to diagnose. I am hoping someone has heard this before and may be able to provide some insight regarding the source of this noise. Has anyone heard this before? I will post here if I ever find the cause or solution. This is a 1993 Subaru Impreza Wagon/Hatchback and has an EJ18 1.8L SOHC engine with ...
Firmware Upgrade CHARGE_OC_FLAG ISL94208 asserted flag that the charging current was over the charge over-current limit 1.4A for 2.5ms (Same as stock firmware behavior. Allows for brief inrush current when wall charger is connected)
They run on a PIC?! Awesome. Clearly a lot of effort has gone into this firmware, but I'm curious whether it implements all the same features as the original, such as temperature cutout, etc.
Hi Tinfever. I recently plugged in the charger, and it showed 8 red flashes, even though I was using the original charger. This issue never occurred when I used the original firmware. After I switched to another charger, the problem was fixed, but after 30 minutes of charging, it showed 12 red flashes, indicating an overheat error. I tried replacing the BMS board and using your firmware, but the same issue happened again. This never occurred when I was using the original firmware. I am unsure how to modify the code to increase the temperature threshold or if there is a way to revert to the original firmware. I am quite frustrated with these issues after switching to your firmware. Can you please help me resolve this?
Are these pickit clones on Amazon legit? I want to purchase one but not the 170$ one
Awesome work man. A few questions though. Could you for example, just for repair purposes, read the firmware from a working batt and rewrite it on a bricked one after you do a cell swapp? And how about V15 batteries? Do you have a solution for those? Again, awesome work 💪
@@gvitservices Thank you! It is possible to change some values in the EEPROM to unbrick the battery. I think there is more info on that in one of the EEVblog forum threads, not the one specific to my project. On V15 batteries, I think someone else started a similar project for those but they use a different microcontroller so it kind of had to be done from scratch.
@tinfever not necesarily from scratch, but i have a lott of V15 V12 batteries and they are all dead dead. Now, i didnt had time to be honest to take my time in them, but it is worth repairing them because they are not cheap 😁
Now that is a brilliant design,simple but very flexible and modular.
Will you be able to develop a firmware upgrade for V15 and V12 so it can use the submarine mop attachment?
Has anyone picked the same fix for the Dyson v10 battery? It’s got the same behaviour, lockout on discharge. Multiple leds rather than a single one like described here. I think it’s the sv12 battery? (Also has 206340 7INR19/66 type numbers) Even just the simple unlock by rewriting a couple of bytes would be awesome.
Great project! I've got a question, why didnt you use a BUS system to communicate between the loads, instead of using individual ethernet cables?
Thanks! I didn't want to put a microcontroller on the load stages because of the additional complexity it would add. I'd either have needed some sophisticated bootloader system where each load stage is updatable from the central control board microcontroller, or I'd have had to risk needing to manually reflash each load stage to update the firmware to fix any bugs. Also, I wanted very precise timing when turning on the load stages, and that would be harder to do with some sort of communications bus.
This is extremely well made, hats off to you, marvelous engineering and the pcbs look beautiful
One idea, when use pins to attach to battery bms, do not scape that gell. Go through it, so gell will hold pins in place. U may still need topush them a bit from side for a good contact, but at least pins will not try to jump out
The BEST Commentary on the Internet
Something went horribly wrong.... somehow I got my penis stuck in the vacuum!
Sure beats getting a tennis ball stuck in my anus.
This is too good.
Success with my V6 SV03. Thank you so much for this fix. I'm only getting a few minutes run time so clearly my cells aren't in great shape but at least I can now go ahead and get new cells with the confidence.
Before they redline you can drill holes - 4 one side 3 the other - to monitor the cells and top up accordingly , or even easier discharge the highest one every few weeks
Hello, what technique do you use to discharge the highest cells? Thank you.
@@jean-francoisa2185 5W car light bulb with wires soldered on , only takes a minute or two to lower the highest cells then recharge
Dyson V7 success here. Thanks for making your project easy to follow.
Question please. I want to use my sv12 battery outside of a vac. There's no output to the main power out connectors. I asume it needs to be connected and talk to the vac to switch this on. There's a second smaller connector on the pack, and maybe it uses this? Maybe it has a magnet sensing reed switch as you showed on yours? Please advise how to bypass / 'turn it on'.
You should sell pre flashed battery. I would buy one I don't have time for Al this upgrading and modding
Instead of using this device to flash the firmware, can I use a Raspberry Pi 4 or a Raspberry Pi Pico or an Arduino UNO?
This worked great, thank you so much for the tutorial. On the LED lightbar thing, I was able to get it out pretty easy. Just unscrewed the screw holding in the light bar and that gave me enough wiggle room to pull the grey housing apart wider and then wide and wiggle the LED out. It would have been even easier with 2 people, one to hold the housing wide and another to pull the plastic. After it's out just screw the clear plastic back on again.
Thanks for this. Worked great. My V7 is alive again! I've never connected a battery to my PC before. That was fun.
I have ordered the exact PICKIT 3.5 (kit 3.5) from AliExpress, but nothing happens when I connect it to the PICKIT 3 programmer (pickit not found). Is there any advice on how to get it to work, or I have received a faulty one and should ask for a refund...
This is really *really* interesting. Do you know if the V8 battery can be reflashed the same way?
Thank you! worked like a charm :)
the light pipe comes out if you unscrew the black screw holding it down
help me solve the issue. when connecting a native power supply. the battery flashes 8 times. when connecting the laboratory 1a power supply, everything is fine
So a Pickit is required ? Did I miss something ? Where to find it ?
Yes. A Pickit 3 or newer is required. You can find clones on eBay, AliExpress, Amazon. Genuine PicKits can be bought directly from Microchip or from places like Digikey or Mouser.
@@tinfever Thanks for infos😉, -> Genuine Pickit 3 = deprecated, Pickit 5 = ~100$, ~40$ Amazon are clone too ? In this case ~15$ Aliexpress , if it works ?... I disassembled Dyson V7 batterie to replace 18650 but I think the Genuine BMS is now bricked. I wonder the better solution ? : buy a Pickit 3 clone or a BMS clone... I'll investigate
@@Redscreen-qk5pf The Pickit 3 I used was a $15 clone so that should be fine.
Great job !!! Thx for sharing your knowledge . My dyson v11 has a battery problem though all cells are at 3.9 Volts. Is there eprom for v11 battery ???
I'm currently moding a sv22 battery just added another layer of 7 cells 21700 all works well but the vacuum doesn't seem to recognize it has 5000mah more capacity and still shows 7 minutes in boost mode still testing and haven't discharged the battery yet as I'm waiting for filter with magnet and dust bin found the vacuum at local recycling center in UK and i just want to make it work again i wonder if these new batteries are measuring what goes in and out and bricks the battery when capacity is low enough been doing this double battery mod from the first cordless dyson and all of them worked perfect stacking 2 dead batteries together making it like a brand new one
how to fix 16 led flash lights? all good, but when connect to the cleaner - the battery turns to 16 red flashes. Second battery works ok
Mam problem z sv12 po wymianie ogniw miga 20 razy. Czy da się coś zrobić?
Merci beaucoup, votre méthode fonctionne très bien. 25 euros pour le PIC bien investi. Sincèrement merci à vous, la planète aussi vous dit merci. Désolé pour Mr Dyson ....
Great job. May I question to you. I have dyson V6 battery SVO4 all 6 batteries are detached and charged and they are all ok around 4V, but it still gives red flash 20 times. Do I need reprogramm it as you showed in this video?
Interesting project. I chose to call it a day on bl**dy Dyson batteries for my V6 a while ago, and bought a Ryobi "One+" adapter for it instead (Got quite a few of those kicking about, so it seemed a logical decision), but I've still got the old battery here with the 32 red flashes problem. From what I've read that means the cells are out of balance. Seems a waste to just rip it apart to scavenge the cells if it's only a case of one being slightly weaker than the rest, but to use your firmware would mean I'd need to buy a pic chip programmer, and that's not something I'd be likely to use for anything else after doing my one Dyson battery (Which is surplus to requirements anyway now). Just wondering though, Does anyone know if the original BMS firmware would unlock the battery again if I cracked open the case and individually top balanced all the cells? I've got a couple of pretty accurate hobby chargers that can do Li-Fe/Li-ion cells and one of those should be able to charge each cell to near as damn it identical voltages, but once done, would the BMS just all's fins and dandy again without any outside influence, or would it need resetting/flashing anyway to clear the error? I'm just thinking if I top charge all the cells and that would bring it back to life, it would be worth keeping it just in case I ever decide to sell the sweeper.
How much did it end up costing to build your system? I stumbled on your project, and it reminds me of some of the loads we built at work for in house testing. I work in the power electronics field. Ours used steel grid resistors. BTW, some of the more modern regenerative loads are impressively small. If you are doing a product that has a burn-in test, those loads can really pay for themselves over time, but if you are just doing design verification or such a used load and maybe a rental will be the most cost-effective. Cool project.
It cost much more than I would have liked. I just looked them up and regenerative loads are really interesting. Thanks.
@@tinfever for the large current applications rebling 7020 connectors are really useful. Leviton also makes some oversized banana looking connectors that work nicely. Some of the regenerative loads can be quirky. A lot of them are load/sources and many of them are designed with battery system testing in mind. One example of quirks I've seen is with the Pacific Power load/source. If you are using it in load mode and demand a current higher than the DUT can provide it will start going negative by default. You have programmatically set it not to do that.
I just bought a used V7 and the battery shuts off after about 6-8 second blast on max. On regular it seems to go on for a while. It was likely heavily discharged and I was hoping to be able to charge/discharge it several times to see if it may regain some capacity but so far max still shuts off very quickly. Any advice on recovering the battery or just buy a replacement and be done? Thanks!
I don't think that lithium ion batteries can really be recovered once worn. I'm guessing the battery cells have a higher ESR due to normal wear. The max setting pulls much more current than the normal setting, which can cause significant voltage drop on the cells when loaded, which means the low voltage cutoff is hit even sooner. If normal mode isn't sufficient, you'll probably want to replace the whole pack or just the battery cells.
can anybody tell me - does tinfever's firmware continue to use the balance resistors, assuming they have been retro fitted ?
Unbelievable, it works very well !! It has worked 1 month and now when I connect the charger there is 8 red flashes telling me that it's over current limit, i try with another charger but it's the same thing What can i do please ? 🙏
Update- Just an observation after fixing my V7 battery with this, I now get a 14 red flash error code when I store the vacuum in my unheated garage, and it is unusable or chargeable. The first time it happened I thought ‘oh great, that fix didn’t last long!’ However looking at the error codes you provided I found this is down to low battery temperature, and it disappears when the battery is moved into a warmer environment for a while. I didn’t have this before the firmware update before the battery bricked, maybe it is just colder now as it’s winter? Still a great video and the fix does work 👍🏻
It's possible the original firmware didn't have low temperature protection or maybe their threshold was set lower. The threshold should be roughly 7C. If you wanted to, you could remove that protection by commenting out the two lines of code in the safetyChecks function that reference MIN_TEMP_C, I think.
You’re probably correct there was nothing in the original firmware regarding low temperature protection, as it’s not really applicable to a household vacuum. I’ll leave it as it is, installing your firmware was scary enough, messing with the code is beyond my comfort zone as I don’t have any spare batteries to play with. Thanks again.
Absolutely fantastic! We do get these battery packs in every other Repair Cafe or so. It will be really helpful in getting these damn things fixed. New cells are easy but to convince the BMS to accept these was a different story, up to now :-)
Worked perfect with a pickit3 on my V6 PCB 188002 , I have several of these Dysons, will do them all over time, thanks for the great work!
You sir are a LEGEND! I have just done this to a supposedly dead V7 battery, in which I had already determined the cells were perfectly within an acceptable voltage imbalance range for me and the rest of the world but enough to bring on the Dyson red flashes of death. It is now working perfectly again. What can I say other than THANK YOU for sharing this fix with the world :)
Awesome! Did you re-balance while you were in there? I just use an 18650 wall charger with alligator clips to fully charge each cell.
@@emmettturner9452 Yes, something like that 👍🏻
Incredible project. I was always wondering why no one uses power resistors in that application. Awesome video!
Hi, can I use pickit2 for this?
If I remember right, the pickit2 doesn't support the PIC16LF1847. It might support a similar microcontroller part that has the same programming protocol but I can't remember for sure.
Is there something like this for V10 battery?
Someone else built something for one of the newer models and it might have been the V10. There is a link near the end of the EEVblog thread for my version.
Thank you so much! I had replaced my cells and then discovered that the Dyson BMS permanently disables itself when it detects a cell disconnected. I bought a PicKit 5 and followed this RUclipsr’s instructions : ruclips.net/video/7t9yA3_KUI0/видео.htmlsi=xnaGyJ3FX6lj3l3O but it didn’t work. The LED wouldn’t show anything at all any more but the PIC was still responsive. I therefore downloaded your wonderful firmware and it flashed successfully first time, bringing the original Dyson BMS back to life. Thank you so much! Regards Richard
Would this work on a "dead" Dyson battery? I still have my original that bit the dust a few years ago. It shows a blue light when i press the button on it.
I followed your instructions, everything worked fine but a minute after flashing successfully, when disconnecting the pickit, its soldered connector touched something it shouldn't have and killed the BMS. I quickly had to use a plastic tool to rip out many SMD components on the positive contact side as the area was getting abnormally hot (probably due to a short in a component following my error). next time I'll be more careful.
Hi there! Great video btw. I wanted to ask if you know whether these battery packs can have more charging current input compared to the standard wall charger of 0.78A? The data spec of these INR-20700A cells state that they can candle 3A continuous. So my question is - can I possibly have these pack charging maybe up to 2A? Or would I mess up the BMS and brick my pack? Please advise?
I can't recall which component is the limiting factor, but I think there was some reason you wouldn't want to go more than 1A. I think there might have been a diode that the charging current passes through or something?
If you don't have balancing circuits available, be sure to stay away from higher charging current at all, as imbalance will get out of hand far quicker when the BMS can't do anything about it. Most likely, 500 mA/780 mA is the maximum allowed standard charge current for these cells: higher charge rates either require more convective cooling or even forced-air cooling. To add to that: why would you want to have an even shorter charge-cycle? I expect the battery to charge fully in 3 to 6 hours (3 being the most likely). Lithium cells that spend a lot of time at their full-charge voltage of 4,2 Volt degrade quickly and will limit the overall lifespan of a pack. And exactly that is probably the reason why they fail so much: most people don't know you are better off charging a lithium pack to 3,7 Volt/cell if you want to let it sit there for long times, but given it's a vacuum cleaner, most people probably keep it on the charger forever, quickly degrading the cells in about 2 years. There are few manufacturers (DeWalt is one I know and a few names in the pro-AV-industry are doing so as well) that have a 'storage-charge' function on their chargers, to charge the battery to 3,6-3,7 Volt/cell so you can store it for months without the capacity being affected noticeably, compared to stock a pack at full state-of-charge at 4,2 Volt/cell.
Thank you for this great reply and a reminder :) @@weeardguy