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@@Ball-destroyers if it works for you I think that’s good! I also use sandpaper from Japan that’s commonly found in hardware stores so I don’t think it’s a bad thing :)

What I personally would do is applying Mr.Hobby’s mark softer in between the surface and the decal. It will “melt” the decal into the surface making it hard to peel off.

To add to this, I would lift the decal where it’s peeling and apply like a drop of the mark softer with the brush letting the capillary action do the work of spreading inside the decal.

@ thanks man

@@Toomanytransformers I should also mention that if you’re applying softer to a decal, to be very gentle with it as it can rip very easily

@@stebplamo thanks

thanks for watching!! it’s gonna look 👍

i've seen that as well and someone else mentioned that to me but I also don't really get it. concept is plastic cement (i think extra thin) is being brushed on the raised plastic around the panel line to melt it. I tried it a few times on junk parts but i think it's not for me haha. i'll probably keep using sandpaper/knife/nylon brush maybe even melamine sponge to get rid of deburrs.

Thanks for watching hope it helps~

I’ll look into it thanks!

Thanks for watching!

thanks for watching! I hope it can help them start with their scribing journey

Thanks for watching! Unfortunately I don’t really have a number in mind, irs rather more of a feel thing for me. But since I always encourage it being done gently, I would think it’s over single digit… Maybe like 10 light passes with the needle to make a path and then after 10-15 ish passes with the chisel? I sometimes lightly glide my nail across the surface to make sure that the the line is deep enough for my nail to get caught

@stebplamo Thanks, that at least gives me an idea. And the bit about catching the fingernail is helpful!

thanks for watching! yeah I love helping people especially newer ones ease into these techniques~

thanks for the tip! that’s a good price and from a reputable brand. I’ll keep an eye out for it~

thank you so much for the feedback~ I hope this video helps on your journey!!

thank you for watching! hope it helps :)

thanks for watching! will do!!

thanks so much for watching!!

ms paint doing work 💪💪💪 thanks for watching!!

hey thanks for watching. could you elaborate on what you mean? are you asking if i rescribe every panel line even if it’s deep enough? if so, yeah i usually rescribe every panel line just in case. Unless its like super super deep already

@stebplamo not, but just like a square 0.8mm by 1mm. you scribe all the side, or just using 1mm.

@@noblord8643 I would not use chisels smaller than the line. But who knows if it’s just a few mm it might not be that noticeable…

thanks so much for your feedback. I think i will focus on making future videos a bit longer to go more in depth. also yeah scribing curved lines from scratch is quite tricky. not confident enough to put it on video just yet but i have a few ideas that might make it easier for us 👍

@stebplamo looking forward to it!

exactly! i wouldn’t do the entire kit either hahaha 😂

hey thanks for watching :D I’ve seen that as well but to be honest I haven’t done it or know enough about it to be able to put it in a video… my first impression of that technique is: I wouldn’t want to apply cement on a surface with details and molds…

i think I use cement a lot less than other modelers too which also makes me a bit hesitant in exploring the technique

thanks for watching! Yep and letting it dry sufficiently before building is important too. Best of luck to you

unfortunately that amount of roughness is needed for me to efficiently remove nubs, sanding a good amount of surface down to clear sink marks and surface defects. also when I change proportions and shapes of certain pieces I need a good amount of roughness to shave down plastic faster

No problem at all! Very good questions. With lacquer paint I actually spray a ton in a day! Like spray multiple layers in a day. Some manufacturers and modelers don’t recommend it but in my experience it dries very fast and I haven’t had issues with layering within a few minutes. It’s been only an issue when I spray on an already runny piece that isn’t dry to touch yet. What I look for to see when I can layer again is if it is dry to touch. Maybe test on junk parts and spoons to get a feel for it. Also, I wait around 3 days total before sanding over it, maybe even a week if I want to be super safe. But I’ve found that timeframe to work for me without having to wait too long. I would hate having to wait 15 days to sand…

@@stebplamo aaaah, alright i get it! Thanks so much for the quick response!!

Thanks for watching! always feel free to ask me questions here or on my Twitter if you would like :)

thanks for watching!!

if you’re getting rid of nubs that way that is quite a lot of work ur putting thru those grits hahaha

@@stebplamo i have the godhand nippers. All thats left is the slightest little nub, but I find higher grits preserves the shape better instead of ruining the rg's chamferred edges

@@SC-cx9ti valid!

I’ve seen that as take as well! but I haven’t been successful with it at all (skill issue perhaps…) If possible I would like that method more too since like you mentioned it’s less clears being sprayed but when trying to sand the film, the actual decal gets sanded away as well at least in my case. so I wanted to share the method and theory that was most consistent for me (very easy but yes it does require lots layers and time to dry)

@@stebplamo Yeah, good point. It might require a lot more skill and care to not screw up the detail.. but.. I like to paint worn out vehicles and stuff with chipped paint and decals.. so just makes it easier for me! ;p

Thanks for watching! I think they’re ok~ If you’re used to them I would continue using them. I think the best thing that I felt about them is that they don’t clog that fast and the dark black(?) grey(?) color of the grits help you easily know when it’s clogged

I switched to paper mainly due to the versatility of it being paper thin, letting me reach certain parts easier and this is a feels-based thing but I feel like using paper helps me know directly what I’m sanding… kinda hard to explain.

Yea matte clear is very forgiving~ But if it’s a process that gets you the best result, I think that’s cool 😎

Thanks so much! Also love gloss/semi-gloss builds and think that the finish gives off a depth from its shine that matte doesn’t do for me

I mostly build MG kits and I've gotten into the habit of painting with metallic and gloss coating the inner frame while matte coating the armor plates. I think it gives a very cool contrast when you shine a light on them.

def not a master but still learning lol! But regarding sanding stuff while maintaining shape, best advice I can give is to be patient and not apply force when sanding. It’s easy to get impatient and press harder and harder when sanding which is a big culprit for oversanding/ changing shapes. Since it’s a peg that can’t be seen, maybe try 240 grit sandpaper/sponge with minimal force so that it maintains the shape while sanding quickly.

@@stebplamo Oh yeah that's a great idea. I have some 200 and 300 grit dispiae sanding sponges. Originally was gonna try a glass file but that sounds like a bad idea

@@BrandonTjon people seem to like glass files (esp if they’re not painting the kit due to the clean finish without having to go over multiple grits) but I dont think they do well at curved surfaces since they’re so solid. esp something like a peg, I feel like it would do the “hiccup” motion due to uneven-ness

I used to hate it but it’s been growing on me haha

good luck! let me know if you have any questions, it can be quite intimidating when trying new things..

@@stebplamo i have 2. 1: is there a difference between a sanding sponge and the paper? 2: should i be using anything specific to buff out the scratches/dust when i'm done sanding? thanks for the informative content :)

@ 1. I also tried looking up why so many people seem to prefer sponge over paper but I feel like it’s just a tradition(?) thing where a lot of people do it so they do it too. I’ve heard of different uses for them like for homes and stuff LOL but Idk if those would apply here in the modeling scene. I think they both fulfill the same role of being good at sanding over non flat, curved surfaces so I would just use what you like! you will probably prefer the feeling of one over the other so I would just go with that. I prefer paper over sponge because the thinness is easier for me to work with in terms of reaching hard to spot areas and being able to sand inside micro tight spaces like panel lines. 2. Are you airbrushing/painting over your kits? My method of sanding progressively going from 400, to 800, and then to 1000 grit sandpaper to buff the scratches is done under the assumption that I am painting after. A surface’s 1000 grit scratches are shallow enough for the layers of paint to fill, which is why you see a lot of modelers stop around 1,000.

@ I am doing neither of those, just cutting and assembling

@@liamsgreatbitgaming Hmm that might be a lot of work, much more than 1,000 grit if completely unpainted. Not sure how I would tackle that since I paint my kits at the end… If you’re at least spraying a matte clear topcoat at the end it can make 1000 grit scratches easily unnoticeable.

thanks so much for watching ~

Yep! practicing using minimal pressure + wet sanding is so important to prevent that heat from clogging it so easily

I think they’re okay! not bad or amazing in my opinion. I had a period when I only used those too but I’ve converted to just regular sandpaper because it works better for me.

@@kevindeluna2040 regular sandpaper is just as good on curved surfaces and it being paper thin makes it so that I can reach anywhere with it.

Thanks for watching! And yeah 400 to 800 feels pretty good to me too~

I use 240 sometimes when sanding very hardened CA glue or when shaping a piece significantly like during proportion changes

for nubs and general surface treatment tho yeah it can be overkill haha

@stebplamo Yeah true, its a bit of pain to remove the scratches too.

going back and forth like I did is very fast and efficient, but I would advice to have your index finger in center of the sanding stick so that it stays balanced while doing so~ takes a bit of practice but it’s been great

😎😎😎

Thanks so much for your kind words!

Thanks for watching!!

There’s RE/100 if you want a big Bawoo at least! Super great kit but hard to find…

Thank you~ I would really love to work on a FSS kit soon actually!!!

@ would love to see your take on FSS! i’m planning to pick up a sigrun and do a couple of mods to get my skills up.

@ Keep an eye out for it! I hope to start one maybe next year hehe (I just bought an IMS Vaiola hehehe)