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I have a 06 E450 and the heat blows on the floor all the time. It burns my feet through shoes. Would this help that? It's like the floor heat is on all day

Another even cheaper fix is to remove the access panel on top of the dash and just tie the servo that controls the ac doors in the open position and call it good. You’ll won’t have access to the heat and defrost vents anymore. It’ll be 100% dash, but if you’re in Florida like me, who cares. 😂

I have a 2003 E-450 super duty with Aluminum box truck but heavy loaded permanently. with ABS 6 wheels disk brakes. I need replaces calipers, pad and rotors. I was wondering if it is better to buy original from Ford Dealer or if there is better Brake kits aftermarket?

OMG shut up!

Best video for my situation tryout everything but problem was vacuum control

so glad to have stumbled into your page i have a 97 but our problem is its stinking up everything like exhaust fumes and leaves all our guest skin stinkin .. Do you know if theres a valve to turn off when runnin ac in the rear ? or any idea why it stinks like exhaust in the back

Using a foam rubber waterproof tape instead of caulk or sealant will allow you to remove the panels when you are trying to pull wire, add systems, or repair things on your ambulance.

I GUESS YOU SKIPPED REAR BRAKE CLIPS (HARDWARE)

How do I get the parts I need

I knew I didnt want to do this job after purchasing an E350.. but I must since its scraping bad

Hi, Thanks for the video! Is your Cyclops still working? Would you install it again?

Thank you for this helpful video. I would know how to replace the pads & caliper but not the rotor. Now I am going to change all the parts confidently by watching your great video & explanation.

YOU SHOULD HAVE CLEANED THE AREA WHERE THE PADS TOUCH THE ANCHOR. THERE SHOULD BE CLEARANCE ON THE EDGE OF THE PADS INSTEAD OF HAMMERING THE PADS IN. YOUR BRAKE JOB WILL NOT LAST AS LONG AS IT SHOULD.

😊Thank you

Any idea what you tourqed those lug nuts at?

gtreat job

I did everything you said but no air comes out the front at all now. Only hot air in the rear.

DONT GREASE THESE. USE GEAR OIL NOT BEARING GREASE.

Mentioning part numbers of the replacement parts would be of some help.

WHAT? NO BRAKE LUBRICANT!! NOT A GREAT BRAKE JOB!!!

What spindle tool is that for the axle? Any part number?

There is so many things wrong with this video, that’s not how you pack a bearing ,that is not bearing greases ,that’s not how a bearing endplay is set and most importantly it’s an oil system not grease now oil and grease will be mixing so please no one do any of this .

Why didn't you put a new wheel seal in it am I missing something

Easy man thanks

Most of the time you can disconnect the vacuum line on top of the dash. Then spray just a tiny amount of WD-40 into it and reconnect. It has worked on 3-4 vans that I have repaired and my own. Long as the actuator/actuators aren’t bad. Otherwise this is a great down and dirty work around.

Awesome information, and when you think how much it would cost to have it brought to a place where they work on A/C systems , plus the parts you can get real cheap

parts list would be helpful

Do you know where little spring clips go ?

I bought the $32 kit from Vantage Optics and air is working great here in Florida for my 1997 E350

Good vid - clean ! No BS/wasted time ! I'll be referencing this vid to do my new-to-me Winnebago C class motorhome . Thanks ! Did you use a manual for torque settings ?

If anyone knows can u tell me the Cost of this job for the hardware and both hardware and labor if i would send it somewhere please

For the E torx heres a tip. Get a map torch from home depot (not expensive) and heat up the hub in the area that the torx bolt goes into. Not the rotor, just that sleeve shaped part along the sides. This loosens the grip and lock tite on the torx bolt threads and makes removing it much easier.

Where's the rear clip go

I watched this and your video made me think the brake ripped me off. They charge me for the rotor but did not put it on. Good video

Thanks for the info ❗I Didn't know the pins held it all together.👍👍👍

Really should lube those pins you pounded in

Just what I was looking for. Thank you very much!!!!

Fantastic video, solving my current a/c not blowing out the dash vents problem, on my recently purchased 2009 E350 cutaway bus. Your parts list is a great time saver for me. Thank you for creating the informative video and parts listing

why do you grease the bearings when they are bather from the read diff fluid that floods the axle and washes out the grease and changes the composition of the rear diff fluid after the mix up.. ?

Thanks for the video! Helped me fix my 1998 Ford E-con Club Wagon A/C. Symptoms were exactly as you describe. Thanks for the post! Nat 🤩

Thank you so much for this video. Very well made sir.

Bro who thought you how to pack a bearing cause that's 100% not how to pack a bearing and makes me question your whole video. Learn to do it right before making a video

EXCELLENT!! Thank You!!

Great video

Do NOT loosten the nut after the clicking stops. There is a preload in a tapered roller and far more of them fail from being too loose than too tight. If the hub turns too freely it is WRONG. There is to be a slight drag.

I want to do something similar to this in my RV. I think I’ll use more slats and maybe forego the wood? I like seeing how everyone does this a little differently.

Thanks so much. How many ton jack are you using? Also where is the e brake cables at ?

hey thanks for the info. I routed my new vacume line around the space by door panel but then used the valve and canister as you showed. It worked well and I appreciate your info to help me. thanks alot

Cool video I'm doing my 17ft. Uhaul box truck in a couple of weeks I'm going to do rotors calipers shoes and seals 👍 thanks for sharing

Metal on metal hammering is never the answer