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@@EggnogDog-nk8yx Thank you!

Yeah! I’ve been looking on marketplace for one but people have crazy prices for them.

I have not installed these on any Gladiators yet but, when I had retail shops we used this brand religiously and they worked fantastic. I am actually looking at putting a set on my recently acquired Ford that we now use for most of our heavy towing. Here is a link for the kit you should need so it may be worth checking out... www.airliftcompany.com/shop/60830

@@jeeplifestyles Thank you

That may have been debatable in years past but in todays world of off-roading, a carburetor will not withstand the extreme vertical climbs that many trails consist of. Not to mention the headache involved with major elevation changes. It won't get you home if fuel spills over on a vertical climb and burns your rig to the ground. The days of carburation for the most part are history, much like the wood spoke wheel and the horse and buggy. That's why virtually every manufacturer utilizing the internal combustion engine from motorcycles, snowmobiles, watercraft, auto manufacturers and others have all gone to fuel injection for multiple reasons.

Ask RUclips, when it was uploaded it was uploaded at 1080P

Sounds like the seat belt receptacle that latches and releases the seatbelt may be having issues. The cheapest and simplest test might be to unplug the plug under the seat itself. Have you tried that? You should see it directly underneath the seat, there should be a connector that you can unplug to see if it disables the chime.

No, this was so long ago that I don’t remember if I sold it, gave it away or tossed it. Good luck on your search.

It sure can or you could simply cut out where the ball is. With an sharp razor knife the material is very easy to cut and trim. If you have the B&W style gooseneck with the removable ball, you can use that as a template to cut a circle for the insert where the ball mounts inside of the hitch. We did this many times over the years for customers who had gooseneck trailers.

@@jeeplifestyles Great! I was also thinking (since the floor rug is zipped to the sides) of just using the sides of the Bedrug and just use the Dee Zee Rubber Truck Bed Mat for the floor. That way, I just roll up the rubber mat when I need to use the gooseneck without needing to cut holes. My question to you, since you installed many bedrugs, can the bedrug hold itself without the zipped floor part in place?

@@Steve-os9dg I feel that a big percentage of the strength and support comes from the base and from being zipped together. I think you would be unhappy just using the sides since they would most likely flop in the wind until you got frustrated and removed them. For as much as the BedRug costs it would seem a shame to only use part of it BUT... I would use the Dee Zee rubber mat over the top if you wanted. That is actually what I do when I haul my quad to extremely muddy locations like when hunting. Although, the BedRug is made to handle these elements. I personally like to be proactive and cover the floor with my rubber mat during the most extreme or abusive loads like wood, my quad when muddy or when hauling extremely greasy engine parts.

@@jeeplifestyles thank you very much for those details. Clearly you are an expert and know a lot about those rugs and rubber mats. Very much appreciated.

I agree 100%, different wheels and larger tires give them individuality and character!

Can you fit it in the console with your holster now? It does reduce the storage space of the console a bit so that is a fair observation and concern. If it fit's now, you might still be able to utilize the console with the safe for this specific task, the majority of the space that is lost is from the top side of the console.

We figured that people wouldn't want to watch 10-12 minutes of video for this installation so we didn't film the front since it is pretty straight forward. What kind of issues are you having, maybe we can offer some insight.

That’s the beauty and purpose of it, personalization by personal preference. As stated, if they (or I) didn’t like it, the pinstripe is easy enough to remove. They liked it so they wanted to keep it.

Yes, that is correct.

@@jeeplifestyles Thanks. Great video. Very well done.

@@timflaherty2731 You're welcome, thank you for taking the time to watch the video. We're glad you found it helpful!

Ok

I don't think it's a dumb question at all. Our side rails seemed to be equal in length and the latch system lined up almost perfectly. I eyeballed the rails as I installed them and the video shown was the first attempt. It lined up, latched into place and fit nicely. Can I ask how far off the latch is from one side to the other and how much difference there is in overall length of each rail? It certainly is a possibility that they are mismatched. It doesn't make sense that the latch system wouldn't be aligned either. You might try another representative. If you don't have any luck let me know, we might be able to find a rep for you to contact.

Thanks for this sanity check. They’re off by a half to 3/4 inch. Immediately noticeable and not within what I’d consider margin of error. Frustrating that they said they are supposed to be offset when that wouldn’t make sense when the rear rail is perfectly straight.

@@franksmith5404 Ok, so I just went out and measure the side rails, overall length is roughly 61 3/8" on both sides, they are identical. I also measure from the back edge of each rail (at the tailgate) forward to the lip (if you will) of the latch system and both are approximately 1 1/4" from edge to upper lip or top catch of the locking mechanism. Both side rails appear to be identical in length and construction to one another.

Awesome thanks. Tip to tip (in other words, including the curved plastic end caps)? I just measured the one side that fits right and it’s 61 and 3/8 plastic tip to tip. The other one is 61 which is my issue they refuse to acknowledge. Even with adjustment, the 61” side is saggy. Thanks!

@@franksmith5404 Correct, "tip to tip." Ours measured out identical, sorry to hear they don't have better customer service and aren't trying to help you more.

Thank you for taking the time to check out the video, we're glad you liked it.

Thank you, yes it is. We're extremely happy with how it looks and performs!

@@jeeplifestyles Right on I like the stance. I know it says 3.5” in the title just seemed taller. Going to order this kit for my gladiator.

@@ronniesontag4679 We had considered the 4.5" with 40's but are glad we went with the 3.5" and 38" Milestar Patagonia M/T's. Everything is proportionate and the Jeep has plenty of clearance, rides better than it did stock and it looks great. We're confident that you'll love your lift and JT when it's done! Stay tuned, we'll be releasing new videos in the coming weeks of the 2nd phase with new installs.

Yes, ours too had what we felt, was more than normal play or noise when it was on the lift and inspected after torquing the 10 mm bolts. Once on the ground, giving it a shakedown run, and driving for the past several months, we have had zero issue or noise. Have you checked it with the full weight of the suspension on it while on the ground?

@@jeeplifestyles yeah I checked it again after driving it for a bit on the highway back and fourth to work. It still has that play inside the threads which is weird I tried reaching out to teraflex and just waiting on a response.

My first thought is that you should probably get it into an alignment shop and have that looked at. Did you install any kind of a lift to it? That is typically how and when the steering wheel will become off-center. If you have changed pads and calipers that should, (in theory) eliminate the brakes grabbing. If your brakes are working, I would say your brake lines should be fine. My last thought brings me back to my first, might not be a bad idea to check the alignment.

@@jeeplifestyles it was the brake hose collapsed on the right side. Thanks for the response 👍

@@IStrokerl that would stand to reason, glad you got it sorted out! Thanks for letting us and the group know, your experience and information may just help someone else out in the future!

@jeeplifestyles well I did have to center the steering wheel,my jk had a 4" lift with 35's but those brake hoses are tricky. Only way to know is if you take a thermal reading of each rotor,and mine was the hose. Love the channel man.

@@IStrokerl Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with the group and for being a part of our small community!

Glad you liked it, thank you for taking the time to watch it. Good luck on your install, you'll grow to love your BedRug!

Thanks 👍

Good Information, I’m going to buy a set for my 2011 f250

@@bylerharvey1 We hope you like yours as much as we do!

@@bylerharvey1 We hope you like yours as much as we like ours!

Since our tire was to big to fit between the frame rails, we did not install the spare back under the vehicle. If a person was planning on running a spare that would fit between the frame rails, I don't see any reason why the extended travel sway bar would in any way interfere. Hope that helps, thanks for checking out the channel and our video!

Thanks pop!

These are the "Loaded Nomad Wheel" P.N. 1056059

@@jeeplifestyles What is that ring y’all put on them?

@@TrailYeti Those are the "Rash Rings" that @Teraflex sells to accompany the Nomad wheels. They offer them in various colors, we purchased the black rings and painted them to match the factory color of the Jeep.

www.northridge4x4.com/part/1056014-teraflex-nomad-split-rash-ring-kit-w-hardware-red

Well, that depends on what "stock axles" you are referring to. I will go on the assumption that your are referring to the this build specifically. Sticking with "conventional wisdom," bigger is always better. Especially if you are pushing your vehicle to the limits on the trails. Strength survives. Since the JT runs the new AdvanTEK 44's which are the latest generation in the "44" line-up, they are actually stronger than previous 4k Nm versions of the Dana 44. NOW, there are a ton of variables that we could get into the weeds on from gearing, to how you intend to use your Jeep, or even what kind of terrain it will be seeing. All important factors so it's not necessarily a black/white answer. Initially, I intended to run 40" tires on this build but at the last minute had a change of heart and went with the 38's" but, in retrospect, I wish I had gone with the 40's. My rational, I don't intend to use this build in the most extreme conditions and I'm not one that gets heavy on the throttle. Both are contributing factors on whether 40's will work on stock axles.

@@jeeplifestyles Thanks for the in depth answer, all good stuff. I’m running stock axles and 37s with a 3 1/2” Teraflex lift on my Launch Edition JTR and I do get into some narly stuff. Not a dedicated rock crawler but sometimes there are some obstacles. Over 40k miles and still loving it, good luck

@@capt.stubing5604 Absolutely, thanks for taking the time and checking out our channel. Sounds like you have a good system and setup there, if it's not broke, no need to fix it! Happy wheeling! OIIIIIIIO

At this point we haven't done an "after" review. What I can tell you is that in the 12 months so far, this system has only continued to impress. I have run Teraflex products for close to 20 years on my personal as well as company rigs. For many years, off-roading was my full-time job and I have run more manufacturers' lifts than I can think of. TeraFlex has never let me down and if I ever had any questions, thoughts or concerns, the folks at TeraFlex have always been quick to respond, help and/or advise. This is why I continue to use their product line for my personal builds. The ride is by far superior than from the factory, it looks good, it is level and has performed in every way and aspect that we could have hoped. For disclosure, this is not one of my Jeep vehicles that I take out for extreme wheeling, I have others for that but for a daily driver and occasional wheeler, I am extremely happy with how it turned out. We will be starting a "Phase II" of the transformation soon so check back for further additional upgrades.

Hreat, we’re glad you found this helpful! Hope you like yours after the installation as much as we do.

Thanks for checking the video out, hopefully you found some helpful info but it sounds like yours is already installed so you shouldn't have to do much. What you saw early on when we were talking about the "bung" that had to be welded into the exhaust was so the O2 sensor could be mounted. It was actually a three wire and had a pre-terminated plug that tied right into the new wiring harness from Howell. Hope that helps.

@@jeeplifestyles thanks. So the new 3 wire plugged into the Howell harness, not the OEM harness?

If memory serves, this was done almost 8 years ago and a dozen plus Jeep builds later so things are a lil fuzzy. 90% of the factory harness was removed at the firewall and the new components from Howell were included in the kit, the whole system was pretty much plug-n-play. I'm sure someone at Howell tech support would be happy to verify.

He sure lived an adventurous and interesting life and had plenty of stories to share. We purchased his old Willys and drove it from coast to coast, the couple of days we spent listening to his stories and seeing his collection of memorabilia left us amazed.

Glad you found it informative. No trimming needed and we have had zero clearance issues. The 38" Milestar Patagonia M/T's actually measure out at 37" so that is certainly a factor that plays into things. Plenty of room for travel and we're happy with the stance and articulation capabilities. Thanks for taking the time to check out our video.

Lemme sleep on that request! ;)

@@jeeplifestyles LOL!

Glad you found it helpful, thank you for taking the time to check it out. The suspension system from Teraflex includes longer sway bar disconnects for manual disconnecting but, your factory sway bar disconnect will still function the same as it did from the factory providing you have the model or platform that has the, in cab function.

The problem is the factory disconnect is unreliable. Best thing to do is install an Evo manual disconnect.

I would think there are a couple of viable options. Either a thicker spacer (other than the flat washer) between the factory floor mounting base and bottom of the storage box or, possibly redrilling the holes to slightly move the box rearward. It's not a major issue to loosen the bolts to remove the mats but, it would be more convenient if they simply slid out from underneath. Again, I'm not sure if it is the same in the other platforms or not but this is what we experienced. I'm very happy with the unit and consider this to have minimal impact on my overall impression but I did want to be straight forward and point it out.

@Jeep Lifestyles I appreciate the heads up. I have a diabolical inc lock box in my gladiator and it was designed to work with the factory mats. I'm looking at getting my dad setup with a lock box for his gladiator and looking at the tuffy one, because it is literally half the price of the diabolical one.

Which part of the sound are you having trouble with? On review and during the editing, we can hear each step clearly enough. There are a couple of sections where there is background noise (like you'll have in a shop) but we can hear just fine.