Видео

At the risk of removing more inlay.

Thank you for watching.

?

A dealer thought it was worth it. But I admit I did some jobs just for video subject matter. That and to improve technique. I did many but took the time to film difficult jobs. Thank you for the comment.

Maybe the veneer gluru. Thank you.

Thank you.

Absolutely. I'm wetting the wood just before with the Boracare

@@OddJobFix Mahalo Nui! (Big Thank You!)

Thank you. I have since found a better product for plaster restoration called Aqua-Resin.

You can use thinned out hide glue that will wipe off the label as you press into place. A warm iron will set the glue in 30 seconds and you can reset with applying heat again until you get it right. White and yellow glue don't do that well. Test the label for being able to be damp wiped and don't use enough glue to squeeze out if you can't clean it. If the paper changes colors when damp, stop. You may have to use contact cement applied thinned and very carefully so as to not get any on top. Follow the directions.

@@OddJobFix thanks I appreciate your input and advice.. I’m probably going to try this method out and see how it works.. I guess you could say the spot is kinda bubbling but not flaky yet and none of the vaneer is damaged aside from two small cracks on either end of the bubbling.. my initial thought was to use some wood glue and press it into and under the vaneer with a credit card or something similar.. then try to add some pressure to the surface but I think the wood glue would discolor the old polyurethane or lacquer finish.. but I’m not really familiar with vaneer finishes and I greatly appreciate your advice on this one.. I will definitely follow your directions… Thanks again

That's pretty nice compliment. Thank you and thanks for watching.

Sorry it was unclear. It's just a matter of clearance and fit. When you do this I think you will understand. If it's still not clear, reach out, I'm here. Thanks for watching.

@@OddJobFix oh please don’t get me wrong I’m really appreciative for your post /idea it’s a great idea .. and that is what my brother said when I get to that part I will see more clearly what you are referring to .. again thank you for replying so fast and for your informative videos .. I saw your other post and I subscribed to your channel

I've done a lot with it. It's like a big Dremel. Won't take a lot of abuse due to the overload circuit that seems set low but a quick push of the button and you're off to the races. The tool as it comes from HF is useless. Thanks for watching!

I think that would be a good way to do it. That's the thing, whatever works best for you. And I think I have done a trial and error approach many times. I can't recall exactly, but typically I will cut a piece from a pattern slightly larger and then sneak it in. Hey, thanks for watching!

Chances are very good that the glue is a modern PVA type so you would follow the steam and vinegar method. AFA surface drips go hopefully there is enough dirt and wax that the glue will pick off with a dental pic, needle, etc. I wouldn't try to dissolve it. GENTLE heat will help, but some might say try ice to make it more brittle. Start with an area that is not too noticeable and experiment. Thank you for watching.

@@OddJobFix thank you! This might be a dumb question, but what type of glue do you suggest to reglue the joints? Any specific brand?

@@anestassia6346 If you want to follow what many restorers do you would use hide glue. Look around there aren't too many brands to choose from. Old Brown Glue is one that YT'r Thomas Johnson uses. He also mixes from powder as do I if there is a big project. Other than that, a real loose fitting joint might need some epoxy. Look for small kits. There's always PVA but that's where you just came from unless it was the dreaded hot craft glue.

While I don't recommend it, you could use epoxy and hope they don't break. It does take a reasonably tight fit of clean wood in the joints to get glue to hold for years. Consider the use of thickeners.

Thank you Ab. That was a tricky one. You should have seen the outtakes.

Thank you for watching!

równie dobrze

Different strokes, different folks (countries)

That was an easy one. Thanks.

Thank you for watching!

Great to hear!

They do when gravity is working against you. One has to be very careful with little bits in the blue though. Thanks for watching.

Did you try heat? How about moist heat - an iron on a damp cloth. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. Hope you hit the thumbs up. It helps a lot.

Thank you and thanks for watching. Thumbs up?

You could mask off so just the cracks are accessable and drizzle a few different compounds in the cracks. You don't say if it's plaster over wood or what. For that I might mix plaster of paris with some white glue and water to a pancake batter consistency or milkshake like and get some in there. A toothpick might help move it around and down. You have to get creative to keep it from running back out. There's more but that's what I do and I can't manage to show everything. Thanks for watching! Hope you gave it a thumbs up.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!

Fine but I did need to remove some of the swollen wood to get complete compression. A thicker blade or double stacked? Didn't think of that but you did. Thanks for watching.

Too bad. I'm a liberal in some ways. But thanks for watching.

Hard to say. Maybe if you made something in the way of a shield out of metal strips you could concentrate on the lifted area and then move a strip over to hold it down. Thanks for watching.

Online at many places. Thanks for watching.

.

Yes, But the steam carrying the vinegar is what helps loosen the old glue. Heat is just part of the process. Keeping the heated wood at 200º an nmore ensures you won't scorch it. With steam scorching is all but impossible. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad to help

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks, and thanks for watching!

The hand cleaner has pumice already. Thanks for the question, thanks for watching!

Until it cooled. Thanks for the question

Yeah, that one wasn't easy. Thanks for watching!

Ab, this is a good product that you might be able to use on some clock cases, depending on the construction medium. I'm sure it will repair ceramic and cast plaster because I have done so. Wood, maybe but it does paint nicely and a faux grain can be added.

Thank you and thanks for watching.

I am not an appraiser nor an expert. Online resources are available. Thanks for watching.

If you wish, you can send pics to oddjobfix at yah oo com

Thank you for watching!

Very true. If not for spores the forests would not decompose. However, in order to do so moisture content above prox 20% and 02 are necessary. I used the product I mentioned which is a boric sulfate to kill active fungus and this product does not deteriorate as salts are very stable. If water and oxygen reach areas of treated wood the fungi won't grow.. This is in no way an argument because you are correct. Replace if you can. In many instances, replacement is not practical, so alternate methods are available such as epoxies that I would use on a wood boat. But that boat has to be bone dry and again on a house one doesn't always have that condition. I stressed in another video that this system is NOT structural, only cosmetic. Epoxy can be structural done right. Inmy opinion, this product is as good if not better than commonly used auto body filler. YMMV. Thank you for your comment and for watching. I have one more coming which concludes the series and my overall thoughts.

Aqua-Resin may not officially endorse this use. I am testing as I noted in the video. Please consult them as well. Thank you for watching!

It depends a little on other things and termites prefer a shaded spot. But I say yes to awnings for many reasons.