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Some suggestions for this install to meet code. 1. All SO cords must utilize a strain relief connector appropriatly sized for the cable. 2. When terminating fine stranded wire such as SO cable your required to use a proper wire termination ferrule on lugs where the screw rotates on the wire, use on the receptacle is approved because of the type of terminal, but the rest require ferrules at breaker and terminal block. 3. While not code I would not accept ring terminals bolted together and taped as an approved method for making connections. Its Rinky dink. I will say its a decent looking piece of equipment.

Ames are the worst

Nice to see you putting out another interesting video.. came out great. Thanks for sharing

Great to see you active again Mike. These days if I need keys I make them round ones. Stepped like Abe Lincoln’s Stove Pipe Hat. So much easier than what you did. Still does a good location job. Best Wishes from Australia.

Funny thing happend we got a 10 foot bed surface grinder at work and im spose to figure it out. Itss goin just fine. Just fine. Anyone have advice?

That huge gap there?

The video came up in my feed. I'd left a comment about a month back and have acquired 2 General surface gages, as in the video, since then. The first one was reground by its previous owner. Did a nice job. The second one is completely stock. The General is heavier than a B&S 621 or a Starrett 57/257A and works great as a base for a bench magnifier, which is how I use it. Old eyes. It's more rigid than the Lufkin 520/522. Slides around beautifully after stoning. I'd recommend it. Comparable to a B&S 621. And it's inexpensive. Why fight it?

Great video and great outcome. The pilot on the die and the setup for predrilling the alignment holes is pure genius. Thanks for teaching this!

Thanks for making these videos. I am just a hobby machinist and learning how an experienced tool and die maker does this is pure RUclips gold and very valuable to someone like me.

I collect surface gages. These days, for the most part, they've been replaced with height gages. I'm not talking about the simple height gage as shown in the video, but a rather complex structure that rides on air like a hovercraft and can perform numerous operations. If folks download, say, Mitutoyo's Spring Promotion catalog, they can have a look at similar instruments and actually note the prices. We're talking $10K+. Would be happy to recommend some. If one wants a medium size surface gage, as in the video, both the B&S 621 and Lufkin 520 are excellent. They use 5/16 rods. Bigger, +4lbs, a B&S 622 with a 3/8 rod is fantastic. The new 622s are made in the UK and sell for silly money. Pretty much everyone is owned by Hexagon. If you can find a used one that's realistically priced, as I did, you won the metrology Internet that day. Starretts are not a personal favorite, though I use several for specific applications. If you absolutely must buy a Starrett surface gage, you want a 257C/D (3/8 rod). The bigger one of the 3 they offer(ed). Mini surface gages, like a Starrett 56, are a bit of a different topic (7/32 rod). General sold a nice mini, too; I think it made by Lufkin. Enjoyed the video. Good luck.

You don’t have to remove the table to change the X screw and nut. Barry at H & W machine demonstrates how both can be removed as a unit together from the left end of the machine.

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I would have liked to see your repair of that import tailstock. I just bought one this past fall, and have not checked it out. It was made in India. I was seeing Raccoons and Possums all winter as well (by Toddville). This was the most mild winter I've experienced in the 40 years I've lived here.

I watched your video and even though part of it was silent I enjoyed it. And yep I remember our maintained dept work on it.

Quite a fight with that trans to open... nice unit - quite a fiddle altogether for reassembly - much patience!. Trying to imagine the hours you have put into the DoAll in total!

Just a suggestions: your audio is terrible, so a voice over might be better anyway. No hard feelings.

MIke, I think you missed the 2 shims when you put it back together 14:10 shows where you took the shims off, then 14:54 you put the new gear in without the shims. Have played this several several times. The new gear definately goes into the casing without the 2 shims. I kept shouting out put the shims on, but you ignored me.😢 Check it yourself. Regards from Australia.

Can’t wait to see inside of that transmission. Thanks so much for sharing.

That is an odd thing. We used an saw very similar to yours. I know they had the trans out of it two times that i can remember. It was deep throat saw with a band welder. Any way I wish I would of paied attention to it when the were tearing it apart. we have gotten snow 3 times this winter. Its snowing like crazy right now. I hope this is the last of it. Was nice having a winter like we have had this year. About 2 weeks ago or so we had an ice storm. I was up trimming trees and I took a tumble. Im alright now but have been lacking in the video up loads.

I remember all the earlier work you did on the saw - super job, including the outside finish and the welder facility. The internals are impressive, in a sort of complicated way, particularly the trans. The new cast iron gear you've made came out nicely.

Height is pronounced like sight. there is no "th" sound at the end

Mike, In tramming in the dividing head did you run down the top of the arbor as well ? Any difference in height of the two centers could cause that indication you showed and the rotational angle on the dividing head itself could cause a height difference. Of course you did, I know but it just has to be said. John 🇨🇦 PS Proud 1941 DoAll ML owner. PPS It is highly inappropriate in todays political climate to trap Chinese 😂

Lot of setting up and dealing with indicator readings. The few times I have used my dividing head I've had a similar problem to what you described on yours. Great to see you cutting teeth and then the finished item - phew! Coon escape - LOL.

Well done Mike. Could you not have used a different set of holes to say use 11 holes on a 33 hole plate or whatever, and use the smaller quadrant opening ? Generally hole jumping is not a good idea as you found out last time. I have the identical dividing head and my handle pin must be a bit longer as I can not get the pin to go over the quadrant. Regards from Australia.

I've been watching your videos and waiting for your next video. Its good to see you had success this time.

What a bummer. Its been really warm here 60 degrees we broke all records. I hope you have better luck on your next try. For some reason youtube has kicked me out of your channel so I have some catching up to do.

As expected - sure was a lot of material to get rid of! Glad to see with some relief a nice result for the keyway. Now we're cookin' - hopefully :)

What a waste of material Mike. You could have sawn off the spare rather than waste it all as swarf. Regards from Australia.

Always sensed that bit of 'pucker factor' when I was broaching! Pity yours got busted - ouch. Pity too that blank was so hard. The chunk of cast was fair price but of course - rather a lot of spare material. Hopefully this will prove a successful approach after getting down to size!

Mike, don't waste it on your lathe. Cut it out on the band saw and still have some left over, in diameter and thickness. Cut well oversize, pop it in the 4 jaw and bore your center hole, pop it on an expanding mandred and finish to size. That is a lot of cast iron to waste. Regards from Australia.

Hi Mike - so long since I used my div head I'd have to go back to basics again to set up ( and take ages!). Great to see your approach as a good refresher... the old ''juggling'' trick to match up to a suitable plate. Blank sure looks unequal annealing. Look fwd to next stage. :)

Hey Mike! Good to see you back on RUclips. Good luck on the gear project. Look forward to seeing the next post. Fred

Hi Mike, looks like they could have sent you Pre Hard which is 28 to 32 Rockwell, where as annealed is 19 to 24 Rockwell. Have you contacted the seller to ask what they sent to you ? Good luck sorting it out. Had a read as to how it is annealed and it is difficult without a furnace and also as you have now machined it; it needs doing under an inert gas or vacuum so that you do not get scale. Regards from Australia.

Just so you know in California we call it a surface gauge

Im a 55 yo mold maker you got a lot lot of grinding to do and thats my wife

That screw looks like its had somebody's hands glued to the cranks 24/7 for 25 years

Excellent 👌 👌 👌 love it

Great video. I think my landlords tractor is doing this.... He'll appreciate me finding it and you for showing him.

How to dress wheel ?

I know I'm a few years late coming into your DoAll videos Mike, but they are extremely helpful to me as I prepare to pick up a DoAll Contour 30-S.F.P 1957 model. I only have a few poor exterior photos, but no telling what awaits me. Your videos will be a great guide when I begin to go through the machine to place it in working order. Thank you.

I have one where at the end of the mast , opposite to the ball end there is a small ~1/2" disk that is shaped to, looks like, 60deg angle and is sharp, screwed into the end. Shaped like that --> <===> No clue what that is for. Anyone have an idea?

Do small radius

taking off my ranger 2008 bed tommorow... everything is ready... nice to see what will my tommorow looks like... thanks for sharing

This is a good project to use Ospho. Get the heavy off, spray, brush etc ospho on that surface rust and she'll be fine for another 3 decades.

Awesome, thank you for sharing your knowledge

Should have pay the whole trailer and saved it from rusting. But great job

3:05 - Does the indicator holder comes with the surface gauge or test indicator? 5:05 - good to know that it's not great for accurate scribing, what other scribing methods is better? 13:23 - Would it be ideal to slide the surface gauge on the edge side of the granite surface plate since it's not finished/lapped?

Mike- I found a 1949 DoAll ML at an auction and decided to consult the web to research the possibilities of what might/could possibly be wrong with it (it was sitting outside and unused for some time) and I came upon your refurb videos. Your rebuilding of the gear set gave me confidence in putting in a low low low offer and eventually winning the saw. My saw appears to work (super quiet) but needs a bunch of cleaning and painting. I'll probably have to bust open the gear box to see why the unit doesn't like to engage high speed while running but will if system is rotated by hand (dog clutch?). Thank you for showing us your methods...

What color paint did you use in the video? I'm restoring a doall ml myself and I like the color

EX 9:33