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I seem to bump into Matt on numerous tool channels 😃😃. Appreciate you watching and commenting 👍👍

@three-phase562 no worries, it's nice to see other uk based tool guys on here

It is a handy probe to have, was just in the right place and the right time to get it. I think they were selling them off as old stock, judging by the condition of the box. Thanks for watching and comenting.

I have heard that the have been issues with the firmware upgrade bricking the units. I haven't tried it on mine. They are of course very cheap units in comparison to what else is out there and unfortunately, support and development will likely be problematic. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Interesting to know, sometimes materials improve over the year, but basic high voltage design just aims to keep people at a distance. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Yeah, definitely prefer the more reliable brands when it comes to higher voltage testing. VDE screwdrivers will be a while yet, need to build up the holder.

No sorry, it looks like the KEW 6516 is aimed more at installation testing. The insulation and continuity test functions will work the same as the testers I use, but the other tests are slightly different.

I do not have that particular probe from Testec so cannot comment directly about it, although I might get hold of one later. You can certainly use them for higher voltages as long as the attenuation is good enough to drop the voltage you are measuring down low enough for the rating of the scope inputs. My Micsig has 300V rms rating so with a 100x probe there will be no problem. Battery powered scopes are ideal to maintain the isolation, just be aware that the channels may not be isolated from one another so you can get circulating currents through the channels. Generally with the higher voltages, I will stick to one measurement at a time using just one channel. My Micsig does not have isolated channels, neither does my Picoscope and with those you also have to be aware that the ground will be common back to the USB port of the computer, which can create further problems. I did do a section with the scope but messed up the audio recording, so will have to do that section again and put it in a later video.

All these high voltage probes are pretty much the same really. As long as you keep your fingers away from it all, they are good to use. Appreciate you watching.

TESTEC makes great Probes for oscilloscope.

@@TonyAlbus A comment below talks about them, I have not used their oscilloscope probes before, not too many places seem to stock them, but they are in Farnell who usually stock good quality suppliers.

Sounds like a good deal, thanks for sharing 👍👍

Shipping costs are a problem between countries, we have the same trying to get some items here into the UK and then customs duties on top. Unless a USA dealer starts to stock the range, I doubt it will get much better. The NB range of Velocity bags seem a bit too small for my needs, more in the handbag style than tool bag style.

My Picoscope is the 3404A which has been replaced by the 3404D model www.picotech.com/oscilloscope/3000/picoscope-3000-oscilloscope-specifications The BNC boxes were from eBay, I searched for BNC Project Box. You can find similar ones in RS Components and other electronic component suppliers. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126191765879

Thanks for watching

Yes, they are made in China. Like you, I think they will do me fine for my limited needs. Thanks for watching.

They are pretty unique to automotive work, and not seen very often. Thanks for watching!

With the leads removed and switched to reading AC volts, the display on mine fluctuates a few millivolts and the frequency display is unstable. If I then short out the inputs the millivolts and frequency stabiliise, but not quite on zero. If your meter doesn't do that, it will likely be the function switch not working or the amplifier circuit faulty. I have never been inside my meter as one screw is hidden under the serial number label. If the meter is under warranty, I would just return it.

Yes it certainly has a lot of functionality built in, not much out there in this price range that can do the same, unless you build something yourself. Thanks for watching and commenting.

For sure, I should have done a manual relative instead of relying on the auto zero, just didn't think about that when I was doing the measurements, only after looking at them on the computer.

I probably could have made up an LC board for my old one. The new one is nice, but has certainly gone up in price. Lot of work involved in ageing these though. Thanks for watching.

Just depends on what functionality you want from the meter. If you want power measurement capability, then this Testo 770-3 would be my likely choice. If you don't want power measurement but would like inrush current, then Testo offer the 770-1, the UT216C is a similar price and functionality. About half the price of those is the Kaiweets / Habotest HT208D. If you just want basic AC / DC current measurement, then you could look at the Extech MA443, or the Fluke 323 or Flir CM72 if you want a top brand names. Thanks for watching.

I would take a look at the videos on the Learn Electrics channel and see if they answer your questions. All these testers operate in a similar manner. This one may be a good start; ruclips.net/video/tT3eGK1b0Yk/видео.htmlsi=EaQuA76eFBsnPKPx

Certainly continuity function wise it doesn't appear to be happy at all. Unfortunately, there is no support direct from Uni-T, so can't get any feedback from them as to what the issue is. My meter may have a fault, but I don't have another one to compare against and not seen any other in depth tests. I did find a fix for it in a later video. Thanks for watching.

That will explain why the price on the Stanley is similar to Klein, but the quality just isn't there. I have had the Stanley for years, would imagine i picked it up at a local hardware store rather than on Amazon. The Klein is nice quality, just not the right size bits come with it for me.

Some wiha bits I have are double ended and 3.5mm work in that klein as well including scrader valve bits.

Good excuse to go out and buy new tools though! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Excuse to buy a spare! It's heated jacket syndrome once they try it it's all over your buying another.

Stanley is good if you want the no 1 Phillips, but much mor plastic than the Klein. Thanks for dropping by.

Good thing the stanley is in a bin at hd or ace hardware locally if you were so inclined. Heck my local fred meyers aka Kroger grocery store sells the stanley for 3 dollars.

Not seen the new Stanley version, just heard that it has a slightly different look to it. I use the Phillips 1 more as well, and haven't found alternative bits for the Klein. Thanks for watching and commenitng.

@@three-phase562 just the newer version of it.

Depends on budget and requirements. The MR9270S does have more functionality, but you pay for that and if you don't need it or won't grow into using it then you are spending quite a lot of money. For some of the functions the MR9270S does have a little better resolution. If you just want a unit for messing around then I would opt for the SG-003A or LB02. If you want something for more professional for fault finding, then I would go for the MR9270S over the SG-004A if budget allowed as it seems to have better stability. My units are quite old now though and never had firmware upgrades. If you re looking for specific calibration on critical plant systems, then I would stay away from these units and look towards the more well known brands.

@@three-phase562 Thank you very much for the information and prompt response. Best regards.

Yes it certainly isn't the best crimp. There is a smaller die setting I could have used, but it doesn't improve it that much. It does hold in place and does an adequate job for me. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching 🙏

I have Weidermuller crimpers for my usual electrical work, but they get a lot more use. Ridiculous price though, even if there is a noticeable difference when using them. I am happy to use the lower cost ones for non-routine work if they are available. Thanks for watching. 👍

Thanks for watching 🙏

Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful.

It is probably the one job where I have used the theoretical side electrical work just as much as the practical side. Most of the maintenance / installation work is more practical based really.

Thanks for watching TETC.

Picoscope are a nice unit, but hard to justify the price of them in comparison to other scopes out there. Thanks for watching.

The battery on mine is JHCY 755060, 3.7V 3000 mAh. 755060 batteries are widely available, shouldn't be a problem to replace.

Appreciate you watching and commenting.

It won't be to everyone's taste, more of a middle of the road instrument for me. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Can't find the 2213-20, the lower based 2212-20 model seems to be available for one of the electrical factors. which is the same meter without the resistance measurement function. Yeah, silicone leads are the ones I go for.

Yeah, Testo are popular with the HVAC over here as well, we don't see that much of Fieldpiece. Testo also make good gas testers as well for the boiler brigade. The meter price is reasonable, it is just their accessories that seem to be a bit on the high price side. Thanks for watching.

The second I saw Testo I was thinking he's doing hvacr now?

Testo are generally aimed at HVAC and gas boiler market over here. Quite useful instruments though and good performers. Thanks for watching TETC.

Testo do make some good test equipment, even if a little on the pricey side at times. Thanks for watching.

I haven't seen MR9271Pro, thanks for letting me know about it. I want to get some thermocouple testing done with these units first before I get another calibrator.

That's way too small for me! Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@three-phase562 Too small for me, too. 😊I have learned to just put a clear plastic bag over the work area after pinging one into another dimension yesterday.

Depends on the level of accuracy that you want from the device. If I want to use the SG-003A for calibration purposes then I would send it away to a calibration lab for independent verification on a regular basis. If I want to use it for general fault finding, then I can sense check the output functions of the SG-003A with a multimeter and then use the output functions to sense check the input functions of the SG-003A. Log all those results and carry out the tests on a regular basis to build up the trend. For external calibration, regular would likely be annual, for sense checks it would more likely be on a monthly basis. Thanks for watching and your question.

@@three-phase562 thanks bro, appreciate your advice n suggestion ❤️ keep up yr good work.

I think M42 drills are best used in a pedestal drill or lathe where there is stability, they are a bit too brittle for use in hand held power tools. M35 is probably the best compromise out there for hardened steel and stainless. They seem to have done the job and were backed up by their warranty, so I can't complain really. I have seen a few Spyder wood drill sets, but nothing for steel in the UK. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Spyder Mach blue they look prismatic hombre color coating and it's not a gimmick. So if they start selling them or you see them hard to miss pick them up.

The 208B appears to be aimed towards more professional use than the 216C is, but I have not tested the 208B. It has a few more features an industrial electrician would find beneficial and of course can measure a higher current than the 216C. For more DIY use I would stick with the 216C unless you can get the 208B for a better price.

Thanks for watching and commenting 👍

Thanks for watching and commenting.