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@A.Musa76 There is enough clearance to get a hand there but not far. You get the belt in by fishing it through. Without trying to route it around the pullies. Just one person fish the belt behind the intercooler and the other person grab it. Once you can grab the belt from both sides, start routing around the pullies starting with the alternator and water pump then go around the ac compressor, tensioner then crankshaft pully.

@@Toneydark I was so worried about if I can wrap the belt around the crank pulley did not see much clearance since the crank pulley (Belt pulley/vibration damper) is behind the Intercooler. I take a look back there again to see if there is enough clearance to wrap the belt around this pulley without touching the intercooler. Thanks.

I attempted it and had to cut the old belt off it got snag on behind the crank pulley. After an hour and half I got it on. The hardest part is getting the belt onto the crank pulley.

@bearded_wolverine3503 Yes, I wanted to believe it didn't make a difference but it definitely does

I think this particular set was sold at Advance Auto Partsvand was around ~$300. I broke the 3/8 ratchet by hitting it with a hammer to break bolts. Workaround was just using reducers or standard ratchets + adapters. Kit is really good for tight spaces, hence why i still use it

🤣🤣 I those missing pieces on the new set too

Its a different design, doesn't fit in this toolbox or work with these sockets. Ampro changed their design too. This variant been discontinued for a while.

With the right tools and a second set of hands to fish out the old belt and fish in the new one, about 2 hours.

I think the w213 has a different motor. This is meant for the c450 & e450 only

That set I've had for something like 20 yrs. I bought it from Autozone back in the day. I don't think the company makes them anymore, but they are called Ampro Go-thru Hex Geared sockets. There may be other variants out there though. Look up Ampro T45810. That set could work.

You're welcome 🙏🏾

✊🏾✊🏾✊🏾! Solved your problem?

I think it was an e12. E10 or e12. I got the whole set from amazon or Harbour freight.

Thanks! I’m going to try to toss on a new tensioner, as well as replace the idler/drive pulleys soon. Getting things prepared now. Belt hasn’t snapped yet, but preventative maintenance is my aim.

Nah man that was a baby dinosaur

@@Toneydark😂😂😂 close enough

🤣🤣🤣 Never heard that one before

Thanks! ~104k mi. I didn't change any other pulleys. Just the tensioner and the belt. I tried to loosen the charge pipes for the intercooler, but it wasn't worth the hassle.

You shouldn't have any issues passing smog given this doesn't modify the exhaust system. Mercedes stock air intake is all about noise suppression not Smog. If it was an exhaust. mod, I'd have a different opinion. You should be fine

Its a turbo car. The intercooler cools the air. Air charge temp shouldn’t change

@@Haulin4LyFethis is not true the cooler can only cool so much if you putting 50deg engine air into the cooler it can no way bring it down to a very low temperature u will lose power lose timing

You cant. This is a hot air intake, maybe higher flow but lower density air. I'm guessing it would be better to leave stock intakes and upgrade intercooler

How do you like the intakes?

Btw I have a 2017 E43 AMG

The main issue sounds like your Air meters aren't seated properly in the filters. This is causing inaccurate measurements and that bad data is being sent to your Engine computer(causing slow throttle). You shouldn't need to glue the sensors in. You need to pull them out and check the seals(O-Rings). They need to be seated correctly. Just do what I did and lubricate, first before pushing them in. Also Sounds like you're forcing the seals in and making the o-ring slip off. Lubricate them and work them in a little more gently. As far as glue, you can't use any old glue in an engine bay. Engine bay temps get up to like 180-190 degrees when stopped. Only RTVs/Silcone, and certain epoxies can survive that environment for long periods. I don't recommend gluing those sensors because you may change air filters. RTVs also have 24hr full cure times and the sensors can't be crooked(which is probably the issue you're having now).

@@d.l.4867 I got a silicon and put it on the sensors but it still feels the same now there’s no going back lmao 😂

@@d.l.4867 and what do you mean by crooked sensors?

This car doesn't have Hydraulic power steering, so you'renot going to find a reservoir. It's Electric, woogie woogie woogie (I'm Jamaican, couldn't help it). So yea the power assisted steering is handled via an electromagnetic rack (EPS). It adds power assist at low speeds and artificial resistance at high speeds in sport mode. The noise you hear is probably noise in the steering linkage. I hear the same in mine. When it breaks, I'll be more worried. For now, 🤷🏾‍♂️.

they attach to the turbo inlets with a modified mounting clamp that comes with the tubes

@@JustcuzTVOfficial Thanks for the response. I was thinking of just installing 90 degree silicone intake elbows in place of the restrictive stock plastic tubes, keeping my factory airboxes. 2018 E43

Did it fit for ur e43 ?? I want to get it for mine too pls let me know

On the c450/e450/older c43, The tune on the engine computer and the engine cover are the biggest differences. They are both m276 engines (3.5L true.twin turbo). SN: The newer c43/e43 has a diff engine thats a 3.0L turbo with electric assist. Think of a turbo with an alternator/generator on it. Its basically supposed to allownyounto have a bigger turbo but remove the lag a bigger turbo would normally have.

@@JustcuzTVOfficial Mercedes made a 3.5L Twin Turbo in C450 and E450?!

@@jasonb4196 Yup!

@@JustcuzTVOfficial what years?

@@jasonb41962014-2016

Yea its not a difficult install at all The only issue you will run into is the stock engine cover not fitting. I bought a soare one from the c43. I am going to cut it up ine of these days so it sits clean Thanks for the advice

@@JustcuzTVOfficial thanks for the info man

The seal was the issue. Check engine light hasn't come back since i reseated the seal.

Thanks! I honestly have no idea if it will or won't. I always recommend keeping your factory stuff if you are under warranty. If you have issues reinstall your factory stuff before going to the dealer (swap doesn't take more than 20 mins). You really shouldn't have issues as long as it is installed correctly.

@@Toneydark actually I did a Renntech tune and love it

The mod worked yes, but did not solve the problem I was having. I ended up having to change the valve cover

Why did you have to change it

@@evoquesquad2015 Misfires at idle due to air mas plausibility codes. Rubber diaphragm inside the valve cover fails creating an internal vacuum leak. Causing unmetered air to go into the cylinders. The engine computer tries to mistakenly correct this Causing misfires.

What was the code my have a now p112f can you help me please

@@evoquesquad2015 the code I had was air mass plausibility. I don't remember or keep track of the alphanumeric code definitions. You have to look up the definitions (Google them) or use a bmw specific scanner (ex: ista-d, inpa etc etc) to read codes and get tge detailed definition (ie code abc234 = air mass plausibility).

The aftermarket PCV seemed to have a slightly smaller circumference by design so it would be a right fit. I honestly dont even think the silicone was necessary because the fit was that tight. It did it's Job, but my problem ended up being my valve cover anyways. I recommend starting with this cheap fix first to anyone getting MAF: air plausibility+ lean codes.