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Some leaf loss is to be expected from the stress I put it under but Plumeria obtusa is evergreen compared to the more commonly grown and showier varieties most people are familiar with.

@Spencer_Plant_Projects thxs

Also one last thing before fertilizing make sure soil is at least 55 so u don't get a nutrients lock out

Awesome. This is why I love putting this stuff out on RUclips, we can share experiences and tips and we can all become more successful

Last thing if the leaf is spots of yellow look under leaf and see if there like a fungal growing if so spray with neem oil

@@mrgreenthumb91 thanks for the tip. I have a different approach to disease so stay tuned if you are interested in seeing how that works out for me.

Cool! I'm in the greater Seattle area. Let me know if you would like to trade any ! Genetic diversity is key. Scale is easy and there is two approaches that I have success with. Monterrey Horticultural oil and root drenches with azamax. Apply at their interval rate 3 times and then scout for them. Azamax is systemic while horticultural oil is contact. Horticultural oil is best applied in warm temps so it evaporates quickly while azamax is best applied in the evening so it has time to absorb into the leaf and plant tissue. The other issue that winter causes is that the low sunlight causes the plants to transpire less so they do not have the levels of calcium and micronutrients they need so they become magnets for insects looking to take advantage of an easy meal. Simply giving them a strong growlight and making sure that they are well supplemented with calcium, magnesium and micronutrients going into the winter will go a long way to making them more resistant.

I have both Azamax and horticultural oil, do you do either or? I can hit them w a watering with some cal/mag and spray them next week when we have a few days of decent weather. Before getting them into my greenhouse. I don’t really have the ability to supplement them w a grow light during winter. Only ones I have extras to trade are Dunstan, Sacaton and swingle citrumelons that are 15-24” and a few smaller Troyer and US852’s. I think I saw you have a few of those already.

If you have fruits I would use azamax and if you don't I would use horticultural oil just my opinion. Both work just in different ways and over different time scales.

It's unheated so it will rarely go below freezing in our PNW climate. I may put a small heater inside to keep it from going below 32f

@Spencer_Plant_Projects Okay, thanks for the response, i have a orange that i will try to keep in unheated windowed space.

You don't want to fertilize much if light and temps are low...insect frass, earthworm castings are good. Make sure you apply calcium with nitrogen if using 1:1 ratio. If you have growing weather year round not as important-

Nope! That's just what the leaves look like

Some say that light pollution and day length changes are important to walkeriana blooming. I would somewhat agree with that - try to give them a dark period with no light hitting the plants at night in the fall

Me neither! A completely new pest for me! Oh well. Just some cosmetic damage.

thanks!

Thanks! They're uniquely elegant compared to most other Cattleya

I recommend using google scholar. Neem oil and neem based products have tons of research behind them. I tend to use petroleum based horticultural oils for certain contexts and neem oil for other contexts. Both are oils that kill primarily via suffocation- neem oil has other properties that can be beneficial depending on the phytochemicals contained within the oil. One of the reason petroleum based horticultural oils works so well is because they have emulsified the oil so that the oil spreads evenly across the surface and overcomes the hydrophobicity of the leaf surface or carapace of the pest. Emulsions and nanoemulsions with these botanical oils continues to be an emerging area of research.

you can try, its just easier when you have a concentrated emulsifier like tween-20 or quillaja. you may have to do some trial and error

no idea

no idea

They should work but it's easier to emulsify with a concentrated surfactant and then slowly bring into solution. You'll have to mess around with it a bit

the aminios would probably be ok but keep the dose low

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects Great. thanks

i had a lot of springtails develop at one time but they eventually leveled out and reached a lower population level. a little dry out in the winter can really help drop their populations off.

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects awesome. Please keep the videos coming!

local organic supply- it is probably a regional thing. The pacific northwest has lots of volcanic aggregates and materials due to our volcanic natural history. you can find it at bonsai supply stores as well.

Yeah they are email me at cattleyaforbesiidivision@gmail.com

The best media is the one that you can water regularly without causing rot in your specific conditions. A good starting point is trying different mixtures of bark and aggregate.

The small one is certified tetraploid. The larger one could be triploid, could be tetraploid could be some other polyploidy

Thank you for the kind words!

cattleyaforbesiidivision@gmail.com

Valerio x Llamarada, bred by Steven Christofferson

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects I hope my young C. mossiae aquinii 'Caribe' x self will look like yours!

Thank you!

Hard to say but the H&R listing suggests that it will be standard lavender which the catalogue confirms. It does develop very intense dark spotting on its new growths so I'm expecting some good darker saturation on the lip. BTW you can get these from the new 2024 catalog as flowering sized plants for $30, and oversized 2" seedlings for $15 on the spring catalog. The plant has a good amount of vigor, I am impressed.

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects H&R really is one of the best Cattleya breeders in the world! Their stuff is top notch. Thanks for letting me know about their current list!

I couldn't pass it up when I was buying some stuff a few years ago. They must have produced a lot of these because they have been in in the catalog for a long time. They also had 'Arthur Chadwick" x self 4n that I'm sad I missed out on after seeing how well luddemaniana like my conditions.

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects They’re winding down the collection since they are retiring, so this may just be the last of what they have. I’m actually surprised they’re still selling stuff! Snap it up while you can 😢

It's a consortium of bacillus species called Tribus.

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects thank you

Cheers! We all have different ways of growing. I think my method speaks for itself over the years I've posted videos and the years before I started RUclips. Rot is not a major issue with my method. Dead roots can still transport and hold water. Hope you have a good weekend!

@Loribadgero1035 is totally wrong

Yeah there is something to be said for the vigor of uninterrupted growth in a large pot!

Plumeria obtusa is an evergreen Plumeria. It does shed old leaves and maintains a certain amount. I put this on my balcony once night temps go above 50-55f. You are correct however, that you don't have to put your Plumeria into dormancy. Many people do not understand that you need to adjust nutrition and watering in the winter and so they just opt to keep the plant dormant. There is a lot of misinformation about growing Plumeria or rather, information that is suited to a particular kind of growing condition. Particularly the use of "bloom boosters" I maintain high amounts of calcium, adequate micronutrients and keep disease suppressive microbes alive to maintain the plant during low periods of photosynthesis and to take advantage of my warm season. I plan to get a more aesthetic (this plant is in my living room) grow light so I can maintain better health and flowering in the winter. Hope this helps, happy to answer other questions for you.

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects Yes, thank you, that helps a lot. A lot of the info online assumes the plant is outside and on forums, I notice someone asks a question and every reply says something different. I live in the BC southern interior, so anything tropical has to winter indoors. Most of my 'grow' lights are full-spectrum LED bulbs in 'regular' indoor lamps. I've recently read that many of these 'booster' type plant products are gimmicks, so the information here is really helpful. Thanks again.

Looks like you are ahead of the curve already. I recommend looking at company called microbial mass in Canada which makes a very good microbial inoculant which will boost blooms and health much more than any bloom booster will. Once you bring back the microbe health at the roots the less input from you is required to maintain health.

@@Spencer_Plant_Projects I'll do that, thank you!

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