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They just go & go! 👍

Nice made in Britain very little to go wrong mostly blocked carb jet that's all

Exactly that 👍 When things were made too last and made simple.

The comments always show up for me as I use RUclips Studio 👍 Glad you found it useful, I believe I’ve covered most of the general servicing on these videos. You are correct on the last comment!

Great 👍 glad you like it and sparked your interest again! Let me know how you get on if you do get another

It’s a direct drive engine, so no neutral or reverse. Reverse could be achieved by turning the engine by 180. The small Honda outboard engine of smilier size has a centrifugal clutch allow the engine to idle in neutral. I do have a video on my channel about that too.

Parts are very hard to come by as they aren’t made anymore. If you have no trouble with it you should be ok still using it. If you’re using this as a back up I’d strongly suggest investing in a newer 4 stroke. Just try the engine before you let go your lines and at least you know it starts….

Could just be from a cold start. As long as it’s clearing after a while I wouldn’t worry too much. There is a filter in the exhaust of sorts which could be carbon build up burning off. Ensure the spark plugs are correct and gapped and the oil is right.

Personally I’ve used 2 different Hyundai DHY6000 generators and they’ve not been great. The engines have been ok but the generator side went bad on both after prolonged use. For the price and KVA output it’s a good package. Not saying all of them are bad but the 2 I’ve had have had issue, but this was after a few years being used every day.

@MarineEngineServicing But haven't you had any engine problems? I ask because it is always the part that is more expensive and difficult to repair. I am asking about the quality of Hyundai, because here in my country Mexico it is almost the only brand that you can get in a small diesel engine.

The engines themselves have been fine. Like I say it was more what was connected to them that caused the problem. Nothings ever perfect but Hyundai on a whole isn’t a brand I’d personally avoid.

@@MarineEngineServicing Sorry, I didn't understand the last sentence. Did you say that the Hyundai brand, although it has its problems, isn't so big that it should be avoided? and do you know anything about the quality of the Evans brand in small diesel generators?

You are correct - There’s a good article on it here - www.triumphclub.co.nz/?page_id=962

@@MarineEngineServicing read the article. i left my stabilizer connected but my fuel and water temp gauges are on regular 12v key on power source (fused). since i have lots of disconnected circuits im saving the positive leads and cutting out all the rest. no heater, seat belt warning etc etc.. would like a variable speed on my wipers but no idea how to set it up, my PO installed an on/off chinese switch with a rheostat that died.

I already have a video out on how to remove and clean the carb if it helps? Most needles / mixture screws once removed and refitted are bottomed out and turned back 2, 2.1/2 turns. Have you checked the ignition and confirmed you have spark? Spray some carb / brake cleaner into the intake and then try starting again. If spark is good then it should start briefly.

Check for spark. Ensure correct oil level, could be a low level cut out. Check fuel is good and fuel is on. Any fuses are ok. I have a video on how to check a carb / ignition, be it not on this engine but the process is very similar. If they have been sitting for a while the carb could have become dirty / blocked. Try starting it on hare mode not idle / eco. I’ve had one which wouldn’t run at idle as the idle circuit was blocked.

Burning the coal in the fire box causes hot gases to pass through the boiler tubes dissipating heat on its way out into the boiler water eventually turning this into steam. This steam under pressure can then be used for useful work. The high pressure steam is then regulated into the cylinders connected to the driving wheels causing motion and other tasks required by the crew such as vacuum for brakes or for feed water into the boiler. That of course is a very simple version of how it all works. Even regulating the fire is complex enough.

@@davesirvio749 in theory yes it wouldn’t be a bad idea to clean the mating faces. It would be more important to ensure the cover is clean so you don’t get any water leaks. It’s important to flush with fresh water after use as this helps prevent salt build up.

Thanks 👍

Thank you 👌

A few years ago old !

Hi, you can change the oil type to be used in the settings tab of the diagnostic application. It allows you to change between TCw3 , 50 , 100 etc

thanks for the answer, but I will be using the software for the first time and could you tell me exactly which tabs I should enter to change it.

@ I believe the tab is just called “settings”. It will say the current oil type and and option below that to change to another type. The TC-W3 setting can be used for all oil types including TC-W3, XD50 & XD100 this setting provides maximum lubrication at all times. From the book - The XD100 setting provides an option to run the outboard at a reduced oil injection rate. This setting REQUIRES the use of Evinrude XD100 outboard lubricant and is not recommended for all applications. Use the XD100 setting for: • Conventional use (runabouts, cruisers) • Moderate applications.

I have XD 50 oil and talking to ETEC users, they advise me to switch to XD100 oil.

Regardless of 2 stroke oil used, keeping it on the TCW3 setting ensures plenty of lubrication. Only switch to the 50 / 100 if using that grade specifically. As it reduces the oil used but the 50 / 100 are designed for this reduced consumption

Yes, any normally open switch will work. All it’s does when activated / pressed is put the ignition to ground. So any switch that has continuity when pressed will work in this application. Hope that helps 👍

2 stroke fuel residue is worse than neat petrol once it’s oxidised

It’s called varnish from old fuel being exposed to oxygen and it begins to oxidise, you can use a carb / brake cleaner but some times you’ll need to physically remove it

Depends on which carb it is. Basic spit shine or full disassembly / rebuild

Sorry I’m sure on the weight, it’s not that heavy but does require two hands to lift. If I had to guess I’d say between 20 - 30 kg ?

@@MarineEngineServicing it's not that heavy 15kg max the actual weight probably listed somewhere online

Yes, you can set a variety of oil from TCW3 to the XD range

@ thanks, I didn’t know if it was just a “read only” type of software or if you had full dealer option access

Basically the same company, engines built under licence or rebranded in different markets

It was the fuel pump timing. Although the timing makes wouldn’t aline, suspect a jump on the belt as it was fine before. Rotated the pump a few degrees and its vastly improved.

powered up laptop and on device manager under ports I get 2 drop down. communications port and usb serial port under that. set them to various com1 and com2. different and the same but still not connecting to engine. I had a diag report with engine so know that works and have 2 cables as seller sent me a replacement as couldn't get first one to work so crazy if both faulty. any ideas as would love to get an engine report over winter

hmmm, I assume you have the laptop program for the diagnostic system? And that the engine is keyed to the on position ( not running though ) And that your cable also has a block interface data unit between the engine and laptop? Believe it’s called a serial adapter. The drivers are up to date? Does it detect the engine at all when you “connect to the engine” Apart from that I’m not sure.

@@MarineEngineServicing Thank you for the reply. software installed, ignition on. It doesn't have the big inline box like yours but the engine connector is a lot bigger so some sort of wizardry inside that I would guess. bought it from a very tidy guy with lots of + feedback and he sent me a second when I said I had problems no questions. Ive managed to delete the communications port drop down so just usb but still can't get a connection. (no connection could be established) box. will try tomorrow as dark and started raining. Thought you had solved my problem so had to try straight away lol. dam frustrating :(

Johnson 4hp 4.0 - 87 early 90’s model. Not sure on the exact model as the data plate is missing.

Yes, there should be a gasket P/N 348650291 ( Tohatsu ). Some kits don’t have this or the wear plate if it’s just a minor repair kit. Normally it would be a major kit that comes with all plates , gaskets, bolts etc .

Glad you liked it - here’s the video you requested 👍 Honda Outboard BF 75 / 80 / 90 / 100 - How To Change High Pressure Fuel Filter ruclips.net/video/G3drjdQdiLg/видео.html

@@MarineEngineServicing Thank you for the reply. I was thinking about filter: 16910-ZV4-015. That is a small filter located on the left side "between" the oil-filter and the Low-Pressure-Fuel-filter. Hard to see it and hard to access it (i have never replaced it before, i have no clue how to replace it). It is behind the big black side-cover with 4 "pipes". You see the side-cover on 0:27 seconds on this video. Really appreciate your reply.

That filter maybe on the smaller engines as the 100A has a low pressure and high pressure filter. If the filter you are referring to is in your engine then it looks like it’s just a hose push fitting. All you’ll need to do if it’s in the low pressure side is remove any retaining clips and pull the hoses off. When installing please be aware that filter have a flow direction.

@@MarineEngineServicing It is pos 15 on the sparepart-drawings "Fuel-Pump". I believe it is for all 75, 80, 90 and 100 Hp. I have no clue how to replace it, it is very hard to get access to it.

I see what you mean, although the manual doesn’t make reference to this filter. And no service kit seems to come with or make mention of it. Without the engine on hand I can’t say for sure. To access that part if it’s there then you’d have to remove the intake manifold I’d imagine. Can’t say I seen a filter but then again I wasn’t looking for one there.

I’ve got one available via pdf Please visit the marine engine servicing website and email us asking for the link Website link on our RUclips page - www.marineengineservicing.co.uk

It’s a JAP outboard

Yeah, it's a 210L waste bin, helps that it has straight edges and a reinforced lip.

😂

All I do is google search for the manuals - most are online in pdf

@MarineEngineServicing i can't find ... If you have a website or the files,i would bé grateful.

Try - www.manualslib.com/manual/839795/Yamaha-40v.html#zeropagepanel

Hi, sounds like it could be the recoil starter, that’s where I would start. I believe it can be removed with a few bolts. Maybe needs some WD-40. When you say it slips it could be down to worn prawls which engage on the flywheel, these then retract when the engine is running / recoil is stopped. They fly out when the recoiler is pulled hard and should engage on the flywheel

That’s correct 👍

No problem! 👍

Injectors ?

Hi, hope this helps…. 4 x Spark Plug (ZFR6K-9E) 1 x Honda Impeller Service Kit (06192-ZY9-H00) 1 x Honda Fuel Filter Element (16911-ZY3-010) 1 x Honda Fuel Filter (16910-ZY9-004) 1 x Honda Oil Filter (15400-RBA-F01) 1 x Honda Thermostat Cover Seal (19317-ZW9-000) 1 x Honda O-Ring (16073-ZY9-003) 1 x Honda O-Ring (16918-ZY3-003) 1 x Honda Washer (90601-ZE2-000) 1 x Honda O-Ring (91301-ZW4-003) 1 x Honda Split Pin (90758-ZW1-B00) 2 x Honda Gearbox Drain/Fill O-Ring (91301-ZW4-003) Sufficient Engine & Gear Oil

Fantastic! Thanks!

Have you got the kill cord attached as well ? I’ve heard it needs to be fitted but can’t verify this. You also need to follow the installation instructions for the usb serial port. I haven’t got them with me but I know it’s not as simple as plug and play….well for me it wasn’t

@@MarineEngineServicing what’s the kill cord?I just have the wire and software to check the system but it won’t connect ,it’s a 40hp evinrude 2 stroke it just won’t send data to the computer

@@MarineEngineServicing please for more info can I email u?

@@jdmyung5628have you turned the engine to the standby position on the key ? This would energise the EMM. The kill cord is fitted to the key barrel and stops the engine in an emergency

@@MarineEngineServicing yes I have done everything correctly,found out we have a dead battery hopefully that’s the problem but can I contact u for more info?

Heat and penetrating oil

That what I thought, have tried penetrating oil and freezing but not heat yet

@@thahay5353 only other thing to try in addition to heating the collar up would be to use a pair of grips top and bottom and try to “pull” the parts apart. You might be able to twist slightly as well but I’m not sure how much twist you’d get due to alignment

Thank you 👍