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Amen.

Is it just a matter of unscrewing the aluminium collar with the Cox wrench and thus push the drive plate off? I think there is also a thrust washer behind the drive plate.

Thanks - If I am correct what you're saying is that FreeCAD allows you to put sketchplanes at all composite angles so while doing the sketch it uses a local "Z is up" reference. It took me a while to get that that is how FC is designed. It's not a hard concept, it might be explained a lot simpler than the explanations I watched on YT.

@@crossthreadaeroindustries8554 Right, could be a bit confusing at first. Enjoy.

Hello. I discovered this long time ago but didn't spend time enough in understand the whole behavior, so still don't know, using the video example, which is the Y axis and which the X. Could you clarify me this please? Thanks in advance.

I had an acoustic piano tech totally disassemble the keyboard and use appropriate lubricant to get the actions working well. He did a good job except I found 2 keys he had put back in the wrong order - it was an easy fix to swap them around. The piano worked great but I was concerned the abuse it took might affect the electronics in the long haul so I found another same piano on craigslist as my primary, and this one will serve as a backup.

@@crossthreadaeroindustries8554 I see but my question was: on the original PTFE-layer (the black pad mentioned earlier) it looks like was added another layer of a sponge material from 3M, the Nomad, normally used like carpet at entrance door. Am I right? thank you.

Diesels take much less fuel than glow engines, and you can make your own diesel fuel easier here in the US than glow fuel. It is the nitromethane in glow fuel that is hard to get, it has become kind of like a controlled substance since it is an explosive. Diesel fuel is common 1-K kerosene and castor oil with some ether in it. You get the ether from John Deere as spray started fluid. The trick is collecting the ether out of the aerosol can of starter fluid. Good luck...

I was getting mine from ebay when they were just stupid-expensive. Now they are ludicrous-expensive, but they are out there, they come up on ebay once in a while. Very nicely manufactured engine and I think I have 3 or 4 of them.

That's a Medallion - you can tell quickly because the Medallion has the one-piece red Delrin carburetor body/ needle valve assembly and the TD has the metal needle valve assembly and venturi. TD www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_teedees.htm#Tee%20Dee%20.09 Medallion www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_frameset.htm Th Medallions don't have the precision or power of the TD's, kind of sloppy but still fun. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply. The only TD I own is a .010. But I also have a RR-1 049, G-Mark .030 (both CL and RC, CL is NIB, the RC is mint). Love COX engines, reminds me of my youth.

@@jeffpittel6926 Those G-Marks are good engines, but the Cox engines always return me to my youth, also. Something about the smell of that fuel and the crackle of the glow plug. I will be posting some vids about flying CL with the .09 TD. I gathered quite a grouping of them when they were just expensive, not stupid expensive as they have gotten on ebay, lately. On a Ringmaster Junior it makes a really great matchup. I keep about three RM Jr.s in rotation. They take a beating but fly great.

👍 I have been so busy, but hope to get more time summer 2022...!

I haven't flown in a while, I would have to dig these out and think about it - others would probably be able to help faster than me...

No problem

You bet, I felt your pain and vowed to document ALL the settings after watching 5 or 6 videos that seemed to always skip over something that turned out to be critical to getting flying.

True, even better, I prefer using a hex socket screw. More positive bite, less chance of gouging yourself when trying to work off that screw with oily hands.

@@crossthreadaeroindustries8554 You are right about that, I am heading to my hardware store very shortly to get that fastener. Your vid and info helped, getting this over 30 year engine running again for a line control plane my dad in law made me about 20 years ago, fly it around for the grand kids

@@josephschmidt439 I really like the .09s - is that what you have? On the Ringmaster Jr., it is well matched to the plain.

@@crossthreadaeroindustries8554 The .09 is on a plane that my dad in law made from wood he had, a profile 28" wing 26" fuse can't tell what looks close to it. I flew it twice shortly after getting it, did real well on 40' line. I started this restore project almost 6 month ago, got a new head for a glow plug, tried to start notice the carb ordered both the plastic one and aluminum one, you are right the metal one is better. Then sat on self until today to finish this, got a 6/32 1 1/4 hex head bolt, worked like a champ. Need to run hope to asap. I am running it with a 7/4 cox prop. To give it a title call it the DIL Flier

@@josephschmidt439 Yup, that sounds right. The number one thing I did to make my life happier with glow engines was rig a voltage regulator to a large battery. I got bitten a couple of times with a just slightly underperforming set of regular batteries - this can forfeit your whole day. I will post a video about the cheap regulator and readout I soldered up. The readout lets me know either voltage or current in the field, no more guessing. The trick is don't go very much above 1.2 volts, if at all, or the glow head won't last long, or even fry. Keep the original glow head, I would bet it is just fine. One thing about high castor oil fuel like the Cox engines use is that it creates an environmental barrier on engines, over the years. This sort of pickles the engine til you use it again. There are drawbacks to that - the ball joint used from the connecting rod to the piston can get gummed up, preventing the piston to rotate around while running. I would at least rinse the engine in even rubbing alcohol, but you probably did that if you took the engine apart, already. Let us know how the flying goes!

Good tip, I will have to try that.

Woohoo - yeah!

54 foot lines, and that is a Fox .40 I move around to different planes. The other two on the ground are RM Jr.'s, one with a TD .09 and the other with an old Fox .09...

Yeah, I actually learned how the radio worked by making it sync up with the Ind FPZ. Less of a mystery.

Do you have the Cox wrench? Each size engine has a correctly sized simple wrench. You have to use the spanner part to unscrew the silver aluminum piece and it pushes the anodized gold piece off the spline. Hope this helps. Here's are reference to the TD .09 wrench: coxengines.ca/cox-.09-wrench.html

@@boldcautionproductions9203 thanks for that info I have one to fix too

👍

I also have the just the MP8 service manual. The key weight was modified for the MP8 II, so that might be the only mechanical diff. Here's a good thread, mentions there was a firmware upgrade to the MP8 for any changes that had been made for the MP8 II version. forum.pianoworld.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/1744030/MP8_or_MP8_II.html FYI - I let the piano really dry out in the back of my SUV for three weeks as it is spring where I am and when I eventually had a chance to try it out, the key bushings had dried out and shrunk a bit, back to normal perhaps. I don't have the sticky keys anymore, but I am taking it to a technician this week to see what it will cost to get the bushings replaced. The keys and electronics worked fine, I cautiously hooked it up to my studio monitors and it sounded great. So far, worth the money. I may have to drop a few hundred ($300-$400?) to have it cleaned up, still a good deal the price I paid. Came with a good bunch of cables and the factory dual-pedal, which isn't cheap when bought new.

Update, I found more info www.northernsounds.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-56512.html David Ferris 10-17-2007, 08:15 PM [QUOTE=Fastonkeys] MP8-II: Big disappointment in the new action. The new action is faster, but it is also much lighter and this, in turn, degrades the overall feel. /QUOTE] Fastonkeys, here's a post from the Digial forum on PianoWorld: "A note on the weight on the AWA Pro action vs AWA Pro II. I just talked with 2 Kawai technical representatives on the phone yesterday. Both of them told me the keyboard action's weight on the AWA Pro II & AWA Pro are exactly the same. What's different is the friction when each key is being pressed down. We didn't get into more detail than that but my guess is that this might have something to do with the responsiveness of the keyboard."

See this video: ruclips.net/video/yMpa43cNlJ0/видео.html The mechanisms are similar - this could be the cause of your stickiness.

Same here... I've been fussing with this for about an hour now and can't figure out how to get it to arm on my DX6i. Did you ever figure it out?

Yes I finally got it. I'll try to explain what I did...I'm new to quads and the dx6i so bear with me haha! Under travel adjust, I was incorrectly setting a few things. For ELEV, you have to pull DOWN on right ELEV stick (I thought it was the toggle switch) and while holding it down set it...mine is DOWN 115%. I also had to adjust throttle DOWN endpoint, as after getting it to arm and flying as soon as I went past a certain point on letting off throttle it would cut off the quad and have to re arm. Obviously you can't fly like this, as letting off throttle meant the quad would just fall out of the air. I also enabled THROTTLE CUT, as it made it easier to disarm. Make sure you have FLAP set correctly...I set mine to UP 100% (toggle up) and DOWN 98% (toggle down). Let me know if this helps any! If it doesn't I can try to make you a video.

It seems that each radio is a little different as well, so it took me a little while to get it set up. Please let me know if you can't get it...I was ready to sell the whole darn set up! Once flying it is super fun. I will make you a video if you can't get it; just let me know. Are you on rcgroups.com? If so you can PM me, I'm Panhead5496 over there.

@@dempsey96 would love a video. Can't get mine to arm!

I will try to make a video tonight and post it! I'll link it here for you.

Man that's awesome, how did you get it to arm? What position where all the switches in? I can't get mine to arm, followed his video exactly too. Thanks

@@dempsey96 to be honest I don't know. I set mine up like he did in the video and it just worked. I did have a minor problem at first. Seems as though after turning on the transmitter if I connect the battery on the Inductrix too quickly it won't work. Try turning on the transmitter and then give it about ten seconds before you plug in the battery. This was all it took for me.

Thanks for the response. I finally managed to get mine to arm! That's odd about the binding thing! Mine binds instantly.

How the heck do you bind it?

Cool. So glad it helped. I learned a bunch about programming by learning from other vids, then running into trouble. It all made sense, after a while.

Wow, this vid was from three years ago. True, I reduced the engine to a TeeDee .09 and reset, reglued everything up. I have quite a few flights on this now, and rebuilt after a few crashes. Still a nice plane to fly, a go-to plane of mine. Along the way I picked up another Jr. with Fox .15 and so have a pair in rotation.

Nice!!! Just getting back into the control line thing! Love that scream of a nitro engine! I have a nice Cox engine collection, but love those old McCoys as well!

Where are you ( where do you live)? In the US, we have Davis Diesel: www.davisdieseldevelopment.com/model_diesel_fuel.htm However, you can mix your own with 3 ingredients, in equal parts. Kerosene - it is type 1-K here in the states, used in kerosene heaters. We can get it at hardware stores. Then you need "ether" which may be called something different where you live. We get it as a spray can from John Deere tractor dealers as it is used for starting engines. You have to really chill the can and puncture it, then drain the ether. The stuff evaporates fast you you have to contain it. Finally, use 1/3 castor oil. You have to use the most filtered castor you can find, from first pressings. We get it from model dealers, I buy it a gallon at a time. That's pretty much it. Diesels are attractive where the ingredients for glow fuel are harder to come by, especially nitromethane. Hope this helps.