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Tak, i dla Traxa też. Dokładniej dla Sariela drukowałem te spirale do sowieckich śniegołazów.

Why do you need separate instructions for this?

​@@SaperPl1 i would like to try and build it myself, but watching the video is hard because your hands are often in the way of the pieces

@@sierrakilo1174 There is a newer video with slightly improved version of this subtractor here: ruclips.net/video/v1eC0iftvFk/видео.html Hopefully it's more clear there around 1:03 showing how it's assembled

@@SaperPl1 appreciate it. Guess I gotta order some more parts and another motor lol

I didn't program anything. I just had separate steering input for the trailer wheels and tried to back up somehow :D

@SaperPl1 you used powerd up system . did you use a custom profile to controll the truck . and what app did you use?

Jeszcze mniejszy a żeby w środku była połówka Z20? Wątpię. Już ten dyfer robi trick taki że zębatki są praktycznie na brzegu dyfra. Mniejszy dyfer oznaczałby customowe zębatkie nie od lego.

@@SaperPl1 czyli jak rozumiem Z12 byłyby wtedy zbyt duże?

Turret is up to scale actually, I have a model in stud.io for comparison. The gun - you are correct, I will need to figure something out, but the 75mm gun would be around 1.6 stud in diameter and there's hardly anything like that in Lego

Well, Gobricks from my exprience are okay, and also not everything in this bag was terrible. But there were a lot of terrible pieces so there's the problem. One of the supplier is not good enough.

@@SaperPl1 yes, the problem is the non-consistency.

The frame of the turret floor is hitting the pin holes when rotating, the ammo shells on the sides and in the basket are not touching anything. The floors on the sponsons have pin holes that stick out a bit and it's most likely this is being hit by pins on the ring or something on the floor. I need to investigate that correctly and maybe buy the original ring piece even if it's purple or green to see how it behaves.

The problem with the steering in Sherman and tanks that have drive sprocket at the front is that you pull whole length of the track around the idle wheel at the back so ensuring you don't make turns in a way that one track is fully stopped is important to not damage anything. I wanted to implement this mechanically because if others were to build this with the instruction, I don't know what they'll do with app settings etc. Also not every system has app controls and from my experience setting stuff with app is added work on top of the building.

Well, I'm talking specific about webrick here. Others stated GoBricks are okay, and I actually have some pieces in the sherman that are from gobricks that I got from aliexpress. But webrick pieces are an abomination and they are terrible in comparison to those from gobricks.

@@SaperPl1 didnt they also (partially) source from gobricks?! Or is this a thing of the past?!

Well, there are other brands that have proper tolerances but don't have the order process at the level of webricks. I checked gobricks and they are missing a lot of pieces from parts list of any MOC I tried, even core technic pins, so I gave up on that.

It's not just pins. I had really tight axle holes, pin holes and some deformed elements. I get that you may want more rigid connection, but for technic model you may want the pin holes to actually let the axles spin freely inside...

@@SaperPl1 deformed elements? Wow never happened to me. Only tight stuff.

It's not that they are greedy, most of the bricks seem to be okay priced. The problem is that they could just let us upload parts list instead of having to manually pick every single piece. Because if they'd do that, then you can sell instructions and people will start buying MOCs instead of sets. If they make it difficult and/or expensive, you'll go to bricklink and this means those resellers are buying the sets and splitting them apart. And that's both waste of our time and wasteful meaning not really eco friendly because of increased shipping so fuel use and packaging and instructions that will just be thrown away because bricklink resellers will just split this into parts.

I never realized that, that most certainly is why lego doesnt let you upload a parts list​@@SaperPl1

Did you use upload tool for getting them from WeBrick? I don't see any option for selecting the source when uploading parts for this model. @Italianlegodude wrote something about selecting gobricks above.

@@SaperPl1 Sorry, it seems that I misanderstood the intention of your video, I thought the main part was the quality of chinese technic-parts. I didn't use Webrick - instead I bought my Gobricks technic-parts from ywobb. The process of buying a bunch of single items from ywobb was a hassle, but they improved it with their new shop system.

@@juppschmitz2972 This is explicitly about WeBrick - they have awesome process of part selection for your build through uploading the parts list as a file, and they would be a go-to way to order bricks if not for the terrible quality.

What do you mean by "choose pure source"?

@@SaperPl1 when you buy the pieces there is the possibility to choose pure gobrick source or pure webrick source, you can see that they use different mold for the pieces in the same order could happen that you get the same liftarm, one identical to the lego one and one with a different mold

@@Italianlegodude I tried doing it right now and I don't see anything like that when using upload tool. There's just add to cart button and that's it, and going to checkout doesn't give me any other choice than shipping.

@@SaperPl1 oh, the last time i ordered it was still available but i didn't chiose the option because it cost more if you have an ig i can send you images of the pieces

​@@Italianlegodude Could you explain how to choose only Gobricks? I've used the site for a few orders and I've never seen an obvious option for it, unless it's for bulk only?

Well, if you skip through all the video sections, then you may not see it. Note the sections on the timeline and if 7:40 , 8:20 and 9:30 doesn't look like a problem to you, then I don't know what to tell you. But yeah, it's not a perfect video, I got extremely annoyed by how bad those are and the build was tiring as hell.

I'm still looking for a perfect solution, as after putting more weight onto this, the amount of gears makes it so that path of least resistance is skipping teeth on the old DBG differential frame, which allows for this one blue 12 teeth gear to connect from the side to 20 teeth gear, but the differential frame gear is flexible and skips easily. I've already shifted towards the subtractor approach as whatever I do with break steering the amount of gears and axles adds friction to whole system sadly.

Well, this one is an old take. You should go take a look at my most recent videos :)

I'm planning on making instructions, but not 100% sure if I should upload them for everyone or try to deal with CADA on this. As a MOC to build it's going to be really expensive to gather all the various pieces, so I was hoping for this model to be something CADA might be interested in. If after finishing this they aren't interested at all, then I'll go for the instructions. Also there's a problem with the steering in this version in the video sadly, because that old type of differential is too flexible and it skips/grinds teeth under load. I had to simplify this in the end and use the compact subtractor V2 because otherwise there's always some load causing cracking problems at this model scale.

probably not in this model :D

Jeszcze trochę muszę popracować nad tym niestety bo pod dużym obciążeniem ten dyfer z przodu przeskakuje po zębach. Mam już plan jak to uprościć i poprawić ale czekam na kilka części.

the model here in this video is really light, but once you put more weight like I'm doing with the Sherman tank, trying to use proportional control for direction steering gives varying effects. Also note that sherman didn't have neutral steering and it exactly had this kind of setup that using brake drum on one side of the drive train didn't make the side fully stop, but it reduced the output ratio on this side, so it's more realistic for such models to do a proper steering. And yes - of course a proper hobbygrade DIY RC motor will be more reliable, but I wonder how much does your model tank weight in proportion to that motor? is your tank made from metal or does it just have some kind of plastic shell?

@@SaperPl1 ahh I see. Yes for WW2 tank I totally agree that you should use their own mechanism. Like sherman use cletrac drum diff braking (regenerative steering), T34 and Panzer IV use clutch and brake (non regenerative), etc. But for modern tank I think you could build the proper one using hobbygrade RC parts. Mine is 3D printed one, pretty light.

We'll get to picking another project after I finish this one. But Sherman and other bogie-suspension-based tanks are good for such big scale models, the tanks with torsion bar suspension will probably sag down over time by twisting those axles used as torsion bars, so spring suspension is easier to figure out at this scale.

That’s true

Well, tiger will probably be easier when it comes to the body, but I don't like the idea of torsion bars based on Technic axles. The problem is that if you put it on shelf, over time those axles will get twisted and stay that way and effectively the suspension will sag. And implementing it through some springs will require additional space in the hull on the sides. I'll think about what to do next after finishing this one, but the next thing will probably be M3 Lee/Grant or something like M10/M36 as they would share the same chassis with Sherman so it would be mostly body rework.

yeah, I know. I need to tweak both turning and gun elevation somehow

Well, the road to making it into a product will still take some time. It needs to be visually flawless first, then I need to think about reducing the cost/amount of bricks where possible, then I need to design a non-RC chassis that will make sense, which is hard because HOG steering of such hefty tracked vehicle will get tricky (although I never tested it, so I may be wrong here). Then it's about all of you showing in the comments that you would be interested in buying it, so I have support in some data to talk about it with CADA.

No, because Lego doesn't do military vehicles, despite doing IPs like "Star Wars" ... They had osprey set that was withdrawn. Also don't go to Lego ideas with your model until you understand that they will take the rights to your model even if they wouldn't ever make it into a product through ideas platform. The platform is made so that a lot of people push ideas and vote for them, for Lego to have rights and do those ideas in the existing lineups, but only ideas that open up potential new lineups of products are the ones that will be accepted and processed through the platform. If you have a good model, consider just making instructions that are paid or talking to CADA.

Yeah, the barrel is still terrible. I need to figure something out, but for scale the barrel would need to be 1.5 stud wide and there's really nothing there of that diameter apart from some small wheel rims/rollers, that will make the construction of the barrel difficult. I'm even considering 3d printing this one, but it's a worst case scenario if this is required for the model.

Well, it's a good time to be building T-34s in Lego because the new 24T clutch gear and shorter clutch driving rings will make it so that you can do a proper double gearbox steering in reasonable size. I was considering this type of steering, but its more matching the the T-34 than Sherman.

@@SaperPl1 oooohhhh nicee! I’m just building a simple one rn, with the front wheels having steering kinda like the BT-series of tanks

@@JvT-34-85 Well, the fun part is doing actual tank steering. And really, with the new 24T clutch gear you can have a cool double gearbox steering with 16, 20 and 24 tooth gears to determine each track speed.

@@SaperPl1 niceee, but here’s my problem; I’m 16 (almost) and I don’t have permission to buy pieces, and I don’t have any gearbox pieces or differentials

Yeah, that's interesting idea, but for now I'll focus on this chassis. I think that first one after Sherman could be M3 Lee \ Grant because it's interesting while sharing a lot with the Sherman.

Good question, I don't have this assembled right now, but since it's a subtractor, when you change the main drive input direction, the steering direction would also change meaning now the input that was subtracting before, would be adding to the direction. I think in the tanks that used this kind of mechanism before the electronic control era this was handled by this input drive being driven from the main shaft, so it was a sub-gearbox for steering feeding off from the drive shaft after the main speed gearbox, which effectively meant it kept the ratio of steering regardless of the main drive shaft speed, but also as you noticed, it maintained the proper steering direction, which I don't remember thinking about here. Good catch.

@@SaperPl1 I see. Its okay, as far as I know, at least on Leopard 2 engine they use hydrostatic motor to change the direction, same kind of motor used for forklift. It is turned by oil pump by changing the direction of pistons (?) of the hydrostatic motor it moved forward or bacward or you can say left and right. But you are correct on Tiger Tank it is being driven by main shaft and yes you are correct it would also be reversed. Thank you!

Check it on one of my previous videos. I think this is the only proper radial six on the web as others just yolo crankshaft connection, but that is something that will lock-up easily and gets stuck.

Thanks! I actually want to make it something at the scale and approach of 1:8 supercars. They too have the problem of fitting gearbox somewhere that makes the floor thicker or takes space in the interior like in my model the steering nad motors take place. But in both cases it's a lot better than to make a model that mechanisms take whole room inside.

Niektóre kształty da się poskładać dobrze, inne są problematyczne. Dla mnie pod tym względem niesamowity jest CADA C61505 - mimo że nie wszystko jest idealnie spasowane to jakieś 90% miejsc jest tak dopasowanych że nie ma prześwitów takich jak u Lego.

yeah, but it's a cool trick, but not when you're hauling such huge thing over grass and loose whole setup there :D

Well, this is what I feel is missing from the bigger creators here - just make the model to look awesome and capture footage, but how it's put together on the inside often doesn't matter because what matters is putting out video regularly. And especially with a topic/medium of Lego bricks, the fan and interaction with community should be sharing the ideas and checking them on your own and so on.

I have a design for that detroit twin 671s - you need to look back in my videos. It was called GM 6046 in Shermans.I had to disassemble the twin V6 for some parts, especially the chain drive, but I'll probably rebuild it at some point and put it inside.

Yeah I'll tinker around with that, but the space is limited and I need also some of this space to route the motor cables. But the chassis is getting closer to what it's supposed to be.