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Thanks 👍

Matt, would you use approach if the main silvers were ide and F1s were also classed as Silvers?

Some think it does whilst others think it doesn't, its down to personal choice.

There where quite a few other anglers on, Mark.

Easy start point is to set your 2 stop knots at the joint between the butt section and middle section, on the line that is running through the rod rings. Unless you're really familiar with the venue, this will give a knot depth of around 18-20ft on a 13ft rod, and a little deeper on a 14ft one. Yes, it will take a few casts to get it right. If your float doesn't appear, the knots need to be moved further away from the reel. If its showing too much then move them towards the reel. Putting on a bigger float body will also help create the vertical from bulk to float, and this shown in Matt's other video over on the Guru channel (#26 on the Bitesize playlist).

Ok thank you very much for your reply much appreciated.

Unlikely to get a response from Matt - he's on his way back from Slovenia - but the loop-to-loop is the one I'd use. Pass the mainline loop through the shock-leader loop and the other end of the shock-leader through the mainline loop. Have the 2 loops about 40mm long in total and trim the tag ends tight.

Around 20ft, or 6m. This allows for a couple of turns of leader on the reel (say 5ft / 1.5m), the usable length of the rod above the reel (say 11ft / 3.3m) and the drop from rod tip to float before the cast (4ft / 1.2m). Matt was using a 4lb (0.20mm) mainline and explained the 8lbs (0.28mm) leader was there because of the possibilities of tangling the rig. The lighter mainline may have been used to reduce drag on the line because of the wind / tow scenario Matt decribed - left to right wind creating right to left undertow. It also provided stiffness in the majority of the rig which would cut down tangles in the side wind. There are 2 ways of setting up a slider rig with a leader..... 1. In the way described in the video, with a long shock-leader to a lighter mainline. The olivette needs to be locked onto the leader with the shot above and group of shot below. The set-up means the stop-knots would also be on the leader as well as the float. A great set-up when the depth is 20ft or shallower (Matt said the depth was 16ft). 2. Deeper swims sometimes need a different rig - one with a heavier mainline (normally 5lbs / 0.23mm or 6lbs / 0.25mm) to a much shorter leader. The heavier mainline would give the durability and reliability during the cast and retrieve, and the stop-knots (same breaking strain / diameter) would be tied onto the mainline. The leader needs to be only a metre long, and the olivette sits over the loop-to-loop knot connection between mainline and leader, again locked on with one shot above and a few below. The leader can be either normal mono or flourocarbon, and the olivette hides the 2 loops inside it's bore. The dropper shot are on the leader too, and it is finished off at the bottom end with either a swivel or a quick-change hooklength swivel. Because of the leader, and the distance of the olivette from the bottom swivel, shorter 6 or 8 inch hooklengths can be used. Another plus of the shorter leader is that the line below the bulk will be stiffer and less prone to tangles in the deeper water. The boom of shot below the olivette and the stiff line of the shorter leader keeps the hooklength away as it sinks. A video and description of this rig (#2) can be seen and heard in the GURU video Matt did on slider fishing at Damflask Reservoir, also just outside of Sheffield. RUclips won't let me add a link.

@@stevemccrory9130 ruclips.net/video/Eqg8y7Z9ErM/видео.html

@@stevemccrory9130 ruclips.net/video/Eqg8y7Z9ErM/видео.html

I thought that 🤔 will be a valid reason with MG !

It falls through the water more efficiently, and it sits better with the smaller shot below it. Rig dynamics #1. When casting, the bulk of the float (3g) and the heavier end of the olivette are together through the air. Rig dynamics #2. It moves the centre of gravity of the olivette away from the hook more. Reducing rig resistance. Rig dynamics #3. The hook, swivel, droppers, group of shot below the olivette and the olivette get progressively heavier. Rig dynamics #4. Put the simplicity, efficiency and dynamics together and the peformance of the rig is maximised.

@@stevemccrory9130 thanks Steve well explained 👍🏻just one question. The slider knot double loop overhang knot and best gauge of line ?

@@christophersmith3338 There is a specific knot for the stop-knot. I'll try to explain it. Take a 10inch piece of line, the same diameter as the mainline is ok, and fold it in half. Hold this next to the mainline with the tag ends pointing towards the rod tip and wind one of the tag ends around the other 2 pieces of line 7 times (for luck). Pass the tag end back through the loop created when you folded the free piece of line over. Moisten and tighten slowly onto the mainline. The 2 tag ends should come out of the tightened knot in opposite directions, but should also stand away from the mainline. Trim the two tag ends to about 40mm / an inch and a half. Repeat for the second knot, either above or below the first. As Matt says in the video, put a small bead on the line between the stop-knots and the float. This will butt against the knots and prevent (heavens forbid) the float passing over the 2 knots, and 2 knots are more secure than one. There is another slider video Matt did, over on the Guru YT page, under the Bitesize playlist, that shows you how to tie it. Its Bitesize video #26 in the playlist, and the demo starts at 6:00 into it. It is probably better to watch this than try and follow my typed instructions, but I hope this helps. Like he says, practice makes perfect. YT won't let me add the link to the other video. Apologies on their behalf.

@@stevemccrory9130 great info again Steve. Yes I do recall that video think it’s the one at Rudyard. I will give it a watch 👍🏻

Yorkshire. Nuff said.

@@stevemccrory9130 😆

Ye you tell by they way he said it that he said it wrong. Think he meant to say it certainly helps.

Great summer weather.

Glad you enjoyed it

I agree that's why l use my hand made Casper floats which do as you say fish hook themselves. The ones l make are better than the foam ones available as the cast straight further and are indestructible , They are so good that Wetlands have banned the use of any float shorter than 15cm and 19 mm thick.

@@davidsmith2663 I'm a great fan of the casper type float using a car indicator bulb for many years prior to Jonny Arthur showing them on his channel. Hayton lakes at Retford was a fantastic F1 venue and the bulb float worked fantastically due to its ultra short length when the fish were shallow even though I'd got 4-6 feet between the hook and float. Landing the float quietly was paramount with a 4mm pellet and size 20 Middy KM2 hook tied to 0.20 hook length. I always used the line clip and when it was choppy I'd just wait for the line to tighten ultra rapidly and one self hooked F1. The fish there much preferred a chop on the water. Like pole fishing some bites are so rapid they simply pull the pole tip well under. Mind you I've slowed down so much of late!

@@malcrandall1309 You should try a couple of mine. Jon Arthur copied them after he bought some through Dick Clegg's Britannia Angling. I invented them over 40 years and dick had some in his shop. Unfortunately l could not make enough so he had some replica ones made from a hard wood. A bloke called Bob Shone of Pablo Floats in Devon makes Jon Arthurs out of foam You can buy the bodies from Steven Pinnock of Finesse Floats that's where Pablo Floats get them from . They don't perform anywhere near as well as mine. .

@@malcrandall1309 You really should try my floats many use nothing else when the fish are up in the water. I don't make many any more as l can't get hold of the material since l retired. l just replace for previous orders should they be unlucky to lose them.