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Did you notice a difference in performance after cleaning and adding new grease? It almost looks like the grease you used is too light. But maybe that doesn’t affect performance?

I cannot for the life of me get it to communicate with NINA or SGP. Are there any more instructions on how to connect and set up either of these programs. Thereo much conflicting information online. I can send queries from Arduino to change brightness and turn off and on. But when using the recommended driver in NINA or SGP they will not connect.

Hello, do you know if it is possible to modify the name of the switches to match the devices connected to them? I use it under NINA. Thank you and have a nice day!

Isopropyl alcohol removes coatings of the lense this is what i heard is that true??

The caliper trick to get the retaining ring off is freaking genius

Checking your channel out again. Found the video about de-forking the Meade 10” LX200GPS. Have been thinking of doing that on my Meade 10” LX200GPS if my fork’s electronics or AutoStar II hand controllers quit. I have three hand controllers, that I so far have kept functional. Need backups for those. Mead told me the OTA was 26-lbs leaving the fork base to be 36-lbs. I also have a Sky-Watcher EQ6-R Pro and was told the weight carrying load capacity was 44-lbs. They told me the included 2 counterweights are not to be considered in the total weight carrying capacity of the 44-lbs. However, upon some researching, people say not to exceed 33% of the carrying capacity. I am assuming that means 44 minus 33% = 29.48-lbs of recommended weight carry capacity, I guess for good guiding. I would also assume that any additional counterweights would be included with the telescope’s weight as well as the accessories, guide scope, camera system etc. You mentioned that your mount is struggling at times indicates that, if I follow with de-forking the 10”, I too will need another GEM upgraded, from what I now have, in weight carry capacity. I have used the club’s old Celestron 8” SCT on my EQ6-R Pro GEM and it tracks well, but I have noticed the heavier the telescope load, the more PHD 2 tracking graph line is not flat. There have been times when I did not lose a picture with the SW GEM using smaller telescopes/camera lens but I did experience some losses on that 8” SCT but no where near as much as I lose on the Meade fork mounted SCT. I used your method and 3D print file to do the ZWO EAF modification to my micro focuser as well. It works great. Thank you for the RUclips videos. I also started my RUclips channel, it is called; Gadgetman Bowen.

Great to watch your video! Have subscribed & Hi! from a fellow Aussie :-) It's superb you have the amazing observatory. Did you not cover the corrector, finder and then the entire superb rig? I'm lazy, but I cover all surfaces, including tube and mount. Eyepieces are stored in original boxes, inside large case, all sealed in a massive plastic bag with 500 gm of silica gel--am terrified of opening the big Nagler, Panoptics, or any optic and peering within to see mould that I'm powerless to action.

Even the spider seems to think WTF is going on LOL

A grey blue Meade!

Hello, i have a meade etx-ls and it uses autostar 3. However, the screen of the remote control is broken. When I turn the telescope's on button, a red light comes on the keypad, but it does not give a command. Any ideas where I can find the screen?

I really appreciate this video, and that you included the issues you ran into

I enjoy Your videos. Alot of great information! I have here a 8" LX200gps. I wanted to defork it and use the optics on a EQ6. I opened those screws on the bottom of the fork, but I cannot get the optic out of the Dec axis. Maybe just moving a little bit. Problem is, those 3 screws are completly behind the the fork and I cannot get to them. Do You have any tips?

Loosen up the fork screws on the bottom of the yoke to give clearance when removing the ota tube. Much easier and avoids scratches.

I'm currently researching what is required for a small observatory dome. I'm hoping I can use NINA to automate it tracking/moving as part of my normal session. Just not sure on what is required to make this happen. I see so many videos where people post just a video of a motor and bearing, or a box with with wires coming out. Am yet to find a "this is the parts list and this is what is needed to make it work" Especially for us aussies. Do you have a video of your observatory functioning in a session?

This video was amazing. Thanks for posting. I was able to defork my lx200gps. My question is.. I have another lx200 but it’s classic and f6.3 instead of f10 I deforked. Could I use the leftover fork mount to mount the f6.3 OTA?

Phew !

I just printed this and it worked perfectly. I also used the metal EAF bracket and drilled holes in the base part you designed instead of gluing the L-bracket. Thank you for your sharing your work and knowledge.

Just made this and it’s perfect! Thank you! I do wish the stl had the L bracket as a separate file since I am using the metal EAF bracket and didn’t need to print it. But regardless it’s awesome thank you

What if you didn't mark it? How do you get it right?

15:10 succesfully gave me heart attack.

Your corrector plate looks so clean! When I did this with 91% isopropyl, my plate was left with a weird smudge like film that I could not seem to fully get rid of, even with a clean eyeglass cloth. The dust is gone though, lol

I realise that this is an old post but can you recall why you replaced the motor instead of the encoder only? Thanks for the post

Great video I have the same mount I have trouble to communicate with my pc What cable did you use to connect?

hey man i just accidentally smashed my objective lens, i was wondering if these are easily replaceable and if they take long to replace

Now a few years into the conductive paint job - are you still happy with the button-contact performance? (What a Pain - MEADE !!!!!! Shame on you! New controller sits a year - InOp!!!) GOOD Video - Appreciate your sharing efforts!!!

Hi, thanks for this video. I see you use isopropylic alcohol to clean your lenses and I wondered if this can be done on any telescope lenses. Since some are coated with special material, can we use isopropylic alcohol on these lenses ? For example, I have an Esprit 120ED, and I think the triplet lenses are coated (not 100% sure), can I use isopropylic alcohol (only to clean the external part of the main lens) ?

Do you still use this? How is the quality of this relay? Looks great, thanks for sharing.

I wash my (eyeglass) lenses under running water and soap. Then rinse so no water remains. Cloth or tissue never touches them. No coating erosion, after 5 years. They may last longer than I do.

@Turbo Talks Tech, Will it not change the alignment and cause distorted image and also lead to collimation error. Does it not get affected even by slight change?

Just wanted to let you know that the conversion of my Meade Microfocuser to use a ZWO EAF per your video is working well. Many times I am able to use NINA and it preforms plate solving and auto focus most of the time. However, I have a question regarding the microfocuser. Can the microfouser part that is used under the ZWO EAF be adjusted for a little tighter grip on the focus tube’s moving shaft? The paper manual I have on the original Meade Microfocuser states adjustment needs to be done by technicians. I cannot find anything on the web regarding adjusting the microfocuser. Here is the problem. If the imaging camera is straight out the back of the microfouser (horizontally) I usually do not have any slippage. However, that position does have greater possibilities for contacting the sides of the equatorial wedge. My telescope is still in its forks. I guess slippage could happen if the telescope could actually point straight up without contacting the wedge. Another person uses his camera atop an eyepiece diagonal but does not have the modification using the ZWO EAF. I think his cameras are smaller, uses a 1.25” nose and his diagonal appears to not be a Meade. He is still using the Meade Microfocuser. I tried the diagonal position, and it is a very good workable position having camera, focal reducer and spacer rings all going up vertically. I do have to really tighten down on the adapter rings to avoid side slippage. The issue I also found is due to the weight of my 2” diagonal, the ZWO ASI294MC Pro with its spacer rings causes the microfocuser to slip. That causes autofocus and plate solving issues. Please respond. Thank you,

You need to do some dark frames

Will you do this for mine?

I just stumbled across this. Awesome is an understatement. I now have watch how it can be controlled by NINA and everything else you have done. Thanks. I have a similar panel and my Antlia 3 nm NB filters are need as much light as my panel can produce.

Great video congratulations, I made the hardware part and written the code correctly with arduino, works well, but I can not connect it with nina, could you tell me all the necessary steps? thank you.

Thank you for your vidieo. Is your EQ6 pro close to maximum weight with all your equipment? I am thinking of maybe mounting a second scope at at a later date.

I was told years ago to not use cotton "balls" but to instead buy surgical cotton from a drug store. I've bought one box of it 30 years ago and haven't used half of it.

I have discovered your Channel recently...thanks for all your efforts. Nice to see another maker out there having a go! I am trying to implement this switch driver into NINA (for my DIY Observatory Control). Problem: I can get the Arduino and Relay Board working with the "Powershell WalkingSwitches test script" but i cannot get NINA to connect without an Ascom Driver Error ( i have tried everything that I know!)! Unable to connect to Arduino Power Controller. Reason: CheckDotNetExeptions ASCOM.ArduinoPowerController.Switch GetSwitchName System.NullReferenceException: Object reference not set to an instance of an object. (see Inner Exception for details) Then another dialog says: Success Switch connected. Believe me... i have tried to get my head around this problem with no success to date! It appears to me: The driver interface does not show after the Arduino connects. All other devices connected via ASCOM drivers (to NINA) show some sort of interface that interacts with that device....I would have expected 8 switches to be represented on the Equipment/Switch Page when the driver connects? I am a DIY type of individual and would relaly like to get this sorted. I can see lots of future development projects if I can just get this up and running. Any thoughts/help will be MUCH appreciated. PS: I can send/ post any info. that you require to try an sort this one out! Bruce ERO ( Eagle Rock Observatory ) ...(yes Pun intended! )

Hello! Hope you are doing great, hope we will see more from You ASAP... Wishing you all the best...

Great gear, me I am still stuck on DSLR

I would like if I could have something like this to start with 😊😅 Wishing you all the best

repair and cleaning aren't the same things.

Hello, could you tell me what is the weight of the 10" tube without the U fork? Thanks.

Well decided to play a drinking game while watching this video. All videos I watch with british people commenting I sometimes play a drinking game where I take a drink everyone time they say Er or Erm. I'm about drunk now after this one.

Oh dear god! Such a tedious run on of things that pop into your head.

excelent

Thanks very much for sharing this. Have made one and it works like a dream with SGP.

You can also use a simple USB Fisheye Camera for this. As long as the lens is at 180 degrees. I have built one with a $45 amazon USB camera.

Thanks for this video. Before I defork mine any idea what the scope of the LX200GPS weighs? I was thinking of getting a mount that supports a max of 30lbs to save some $$$.

Much appreciated that you documented this. I am about to move a 10" LX 200 to a Losmandy G11G and your video what I needed to see.

I've watched your entire series of Dome videos and they have been excellent. This video has been extremely useful as I have that same issue of the belts slightly coming off the grooved wheels. I plan to try your solution as soon as the weather warms up here. Temps. this week and last have been in the Minus 4 C to Minus 15 C deg range with lows at night of Minus 15 to 22. Thanks so much. Ed from Waterdown, Ontario