Видео

Great video!! Thanks a lot!!!! 🙂

Great video Max! I'm restoring a sister Chicago Coin pinball "Baseball" 1948. This video saved me a lot of time trouble shooting. Also, your production values on your video get an A+ Thanks for doing this!

What does the attract mode sequence doing or testing?

Great job! Ball moves around on that playfield like glass. Cant get much better than that. Thanks for going ahead and documenting this process. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Great work, Max. I figured, based on the other videos that you'd get this one looking good and playing. I say we live in tgis weird golden age of pinball and arcade repair because of all the videos that are out there. Thanks for making the videos and adding to it.

The Famicom have jailbars (vertical lines) And all non RGB 8 bit Nintendos jabe bery baddly dot crowing on all vertical color obcects wnen scrolling horizontally.

Looks like the end of the video’s got some audio issues. Tried to fix it but can’t get the audio for that specific part to sync. Hopefully it’s understandable enough, I mention that the U5 spider chip contains the CPU board ROM code so with that chip being bad it could never have started, and that in part 4 I’ll be installing the new CPU board and replacing the shorted driver board transistor.

What does the Strobe signal do? the Spider chips have multiple strobe signal inputs which I think are at different strobe frequencies. If you take your oscilloscope and measure the strobe input signals they should be at different frequencies and duty cycles? I'm not sure why they are strobing or using strobe signals for the switches but the CPU must be scanning the switches so how.

Ah bummer that the spider chip is a goner. But good troubleshooting getting to that point and all the other stuff you did like the ground mods. I know you'll get it going. Thanks for the video showing the process.

Thankfully we have resources to replace these cpu boards. Back in the day when this would happen they would part out hundreds of these games due to bad spider chips and no alternative.

Any reasons why they used a separate ground reference only for the 42vdc and 60vdc? its isolated from the other grounds for some reason, its ground is NOT tied connected to the pinball games backbox ground?

Idk about the iPod but now I want a Volvo truck

Great series looking forward to watching pt3 as I go through one I just got ahold of

Great job! Increase the pitch of the game and add some 321 oil to the spinner axel, and thats gonna be an awesome time!

Could you upload those videos to Archive?

Great job! Machine looks awesome it almost looks like new.

Great restoration. I am a 62 yo man who played these machines as a kid. My friends mom owned a beer joint and we were allowed in during the day. Great fun and they were for amusement only. 😉😉

I'm having problems with this iPod, I use Cf adapter with micro SD, but I need to format it with Windows. Have you had any idea how to do it?? I'm already getting desperate

Use to play these in Australia☺

Русские быстрее тебя работают.(болтаеш много)....

This was my first pinball. Pretty fun game

I’ll be super impressed if you could get this entirely working. Vintage bingo machine in my opinion aren’t worth touching since they don’t have much value and their complexity is insane

Awesome video series on this Night Club! I'm fixing up my Bally Show Time right now and have it working great mechanically but doing some cosmetic fixes. Can you detail which LED bulbs you used specifically in the backglass? When you pulled them out of the box, they looked like Comet Pinball LEDs which is where I get all mine for my other pinball games. I like the look of the ones you got so would like to experiment with those. Maybe you could add links to the description? Thanks for an awesome in-depth series!

Max, you do a very good job of detailed explanations of problems, how you fix the problems, and how you test for bad parts. This is very helpful to us at home trying to repair our pinball machines. Thanks

The Williams logo? That is an upside down Motorola logo - they are very similar.

You have to replace all the electrolytic in the power supply including the very big one.

You have to look at the Powers’s-ply

I loved that computer growing up. If memory serves, the joystick is connected to the 9-pin connector on the left. I believe the 9-pin on the back is for the cassette deck to load/save programs.

3d print posts..

I love seeing into them so much. They are beautiful

Looks great, Max. It's always amazing how much a simple cleaning can go a long way to make the game look better. I have to second the "No Grease" usage on the coil mechs. Take those sling shots and flipper assemblies apart and clean. No Grease on metal to nylon. Only metal on metal needs any greasing. Go to the Williams Phoenix game and rebuild those flippers for practice. Gottlieb Flippers are more complicated. Clean, not grease. Also the bullet style bulbs are a nice touch, although not necessary. Lastly, the coil sleeve for the knocker is incorrect style. The longer sleeve is usually necessary so the plunger doesn't wiggle free. But terrific job so far. Looking forward to the rest of this and the Phoenix videos.

Please do not grease the flipper plungers! Over time it will gum back up with the coil dust and other debris from the flipper mechanism. Installing a new coil sleeve should go a long way. No lubricant needed as the coil sleeve is nylon and is self lubricating

Yes. CT is center tap. Transformer definition. You are counting pins on the processor wrong on the second side. They count in a circle.

Great video, thanks for posting. I forgot all about the diagnostic mode.

There are some 14V, 24V and 28V versions of LED bulbs. Wonder if one of them would work if you added a resistor or something.

Hi. I love your vids. I would recommend an external mic. Keep up the great work!

C.T. = center, between the outside legs you'll have the total power. A few helpful comments, (I'm glad to see someone young interested in pinball restoration). 1. From the previous video, no solenoid plunger on any pinball machine requires lubrication. If you do lubricate it, you will create future problems with that solenoid sticking. Clean the plunger, replace the sleeve and it should operate smoothly. 2. On abating alkaline battery corrosion, iso alcohol will do absolutely nothing in stopping the corrosion. If you do not neutralize the affected area with a strong acid, sand all the areas down to bare copper, and recoat the bare copper, the corrosion WILL return and continue to eat the board. 3. Is the sound cpu an AMI brand? If so, that brand has a very high failure rate and it would be a good idea to 'shotgun' those ics if they are suspect.

Я рад за тебя!!!

Это ШЕДЕВР!!!!!

Механические автоматы для игры действительно завораживают меня.

Id recommend you add lithium double a batteries to mitigate the risk of battery leak. Acid can wick its way up wires even on remote connections. Ideal solution would be to install nvram to eliminate the need to have batteries. Also there might be some residual acid damage under some of the chips below the old battery location. Would be worth treating the board with some type of neutralizing solution to eliminate the remaining acid left on the board. Great work so far! Your content is very well made and your explanations are excellent

Nice job getting to the bottom of the problem with the search wiper. I noticed in the video that the wiper arm has a red mark on it. It's usually described in the manual where the home position is with that mark. Although I've only worked on EM pinball machine where the stepper units usually reset to that home position, not like this where it constantly turns. I only mention it because it might make troubleshooting in the future easier to diagnose. But great job working through it, finding the issue and solving it. AND taking us along for the ride. Thank you for making the videos on this machine.

What an amazing machine, well done for fixing it. A pleasure to watch.

❤ incredible I’m so excited, thank you 😮

Very interesting , thanks for the upload.

Great stuff

Great coverage of bingos in general. Thank you. However, about 36:55 you're talking about fuse ratings. The amperage rating of a fuse is the max it's designed to take which includes current spikes. So if it's supposed to be an 8A, if you have to temporarily under fuse, like a 6A, that's OK because the fuse is there for a reason. But if you over Amp, in this case going from an 8A to a 10A, maybe the fuse has less chance of blowing, but risk of fire and other issues is greater. Technically, your circuit should never draw more than 80% of max rated load so in an 8A circuit, the load should max out right around 6.4A to be on the safe side. You did great on the video, I just don't want to see anyone start their games on fire. Let's try to save all of them we can.

Very informative video. I bought one of these machines last week. Been 50 years since I saw one. Good job with the video.

Don't mean to sound like a stickler, but hopefully some help! Your "Yellow Metal Panel" is called an Apron. That broken target you super glued is a temporary fix, bashing it with a metal ball over time will cause the problem to happen again, you can buy new Targets to Solder in with Marco & other various pinball part websites. It's also just a regular Target, not a "Drop Target." Drop Targets are usually in an assembly of 3 or more, and physically "Drop" down when hit. A solenoid and assembly underneath will push the whole bank up once all Drop Targets are down during play. And be careful with Magic Eraser! Only speaking from personal experience, it can remove and destroy the Playfield art. Millwax & Novus 2 work wonders. Otherwise awesome video man, keep restoring! ✌🏼

Very good work, congrratulations.