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I've tried no less than 5 times to watch this video, and always end up falling asleep. My god man, do some editing, add some background music, use some INFLECTION in your voice!

Really excellent, I learned a lot.

the specs are amazing

Is there any chance for a 4x I2S to ADAT-Lightpipe converter, e.g. based on 2x TI SRC4194 + 1x Coolaudio V1401?

Please bear with me, I'm not a very technical person. If I want a standalone ADC I have to buy the MCHStreamer, the MCHStreamer Buffer, the AK5572 board and the One for all. With the pins I select the Clocking and I suppose the options are for the different frequencies (I use 48khz 99% of the time). I see on your website that the Oner for all board is out of stock, when do you expect to have in stock again?.

I also laughed at the bandage... then 5 minutes later cut a deep gash into my knuckle.

Cookies look great...I mean, the PCBs...Hope my Controleo3 produces the same results.

I'm halfway through building mine. What's ironic is the Black & Decker 1303S Oven uses 1950's bimetal strip tech as a thermocontroller. My experience with such cheap devices, ( Barn Heater ) are that they wear out in 2 years, requiring adjusting the thermostat more & more until the arcs totally erode the surface. It's called planned obsolescence.Then you dispose of the device and buy another. Wiring in this Controleo3 kit, will make this oven solid state and operate many years longer than it's initial intention. I also cut my finger and appreciate the bandaid included in the kit.

Very impressive project, nice! But I've some questions. How do you connected this board to PC (and your another DAC board), what interface/device do you use? As I checked SPDIF allows maximum 24 bit, 192 kHz. And I plan using full 32 bit 768 kHz.

May I ask a question referred to s/pdif. I've got a PC soundcard that should have spdif out but corresponding components are not populated on the PCB. There are places for it and also pcb mask says which component should be soldered. I think that schematics should be somewhat standart for such things but I'm not familiar with it. Is it possible to restore this function that has been disabled by manufacturer? This is an old soundcard with interesting wavetable synthesizer onboard and I would like to get opportunity to get clean digital output avoiding it's bad analog audio output which isn't good quality. This soundcard has even spdif out in windows driver but no way to use it.

thanks for taking them time to document our build. Years later and the video is still helping people

The PCB looks very nice.

hello Tomi, did you stop with the videos and projects ? they're great and we learn a lot with you. I hope you come back soon. I'm from brazil

This is very interesting! I'm trying to figure out how to make a Digital to Analogue coverter circuit for an audio player project, what would suggest me to look for? Thanks in advance!

Are your products still available?

how do we make sure it's capacitance value is correct? is it based on the coaxial? i know some are adjustable but i bought one and it had the right capacitance but it's adjustable and at that setting the impedance is 10M ohm 22pF and the scope says 1M 22pF so idk, it's been years since i used this thing but I'm not getting any good readings just a flat line. anybody got any advice for me? much appreciated

Hi there. Quite an in depth video. The Keysight manual is very clear about the use of the digital in/outputs and how they operate. On page 68 en onwards this is explained in detail. What I guess you would like to do is to toggle the Rigol Power supply on or off via the Keysight buttons. This can be done by daisy chain. But I guess you've already found that option and put it use. Else why not use SCPI commands to make this work?

Nice work. I’ll consider building that TI IC into my microphone circuit so I can get optical output without having to worry about interference from the PC. With a few low-noise pages out of Marco Reps’ book.

Thank you so much

Why not use Kapton tape around the chip to limit the mess?

Very well explained, thanks for your work!

High bandwidth and low cost are usually mutually exclusive , so this bit of diy makes a pleasant change .

hardcore soldering

can I use RG-6 coaxial cable (75 ohms) ?

Hi, you did great job.

Is it possible to make a m/b pre-heater with the bottom / lower portion of a toaster oven, using 2 or 3 quartz elements? Not to put the whole PCB in it, but just to pre heat prior to heating a m/b GPU for solder reflow. Thanks

Awesome thank you for the video!!

There are lots of YT videos recommending this stuff, so I've tried it a few times now - and I've come to the conclusion that it really isn't a good idea. In normal SMD soldering you only briefly heat each pin, but with this stuff there is heat applied to all the pins at once, potentially for quite a long time. I've had lots of lifted pads and some ruined boards because of it. The only sure way I've found to remove a component with a package similar to what you show is to cut through the pins with a craft knife (score once, then slight slicing pressure on the crack to pop each pin away from the chip body. Then lift away the chip (discard), then clean off all the pads with a soldering iron followed by alcohol. It leaves a pristine board with almost no risk of damage. Of course you do need to be willing to sacrifice the chip, but in my experience the cost of a new chip is nearly always a trivial consideration compared to junking the entire board.

Beautiful.. I am planning to build my own controller and will be reflowing BGA ICs.. finger crossed it will work as expected :)

Hello , how much and how you payed for your Oscilloscope MSOX3104T ?

I've made a reflow oven from the same Controleo3 kit, but my oven came with 4x metal heating elements. I'm using the same leaded paste profile you show here and have had to tweak the instructions to account for the thermal lag/inertia of the metal elements. I'm not sure why the profile needs to run to 235 when the melting point is listed as 183 in the datasheet for the paste. Maybe the other components in the alloy have not fully melted at 183 ?

I think the fact that the shielding of the thermocouple is touching the heat-bed is throwing off calibration results.

Terve Tomi! Very nice design, you have been thinking ;) I'll be in touch via mail, need to know if my measuring application can be squeezed into your design. Best / Brus-Per

yeah, but how does it sound? You can't measure musicality or magic with a distortion analyzer

You forgot the Shannon-Hartley theorem

Wow, amazing build! The description of your build was very accurate and thorough. I think the only comment I can make is that the boost element is probably not necessary given the overall power (1600W) and size (9l). That would make the build a bit easier. Thanks for documenting your build so well, and sharing it. This video is solid gold. - Peter (Controleo3 developer)

Very useful. Thank you. Also great to see it done from the UK/EU perspective where it is hard to buy ovens with good quartz elements which are 230V. I also picked an oven which has 2x115V elements. I will buy a second one and do the same as you did. That was my plan already, but seeing you do it has made me more confident that this is the right way. I was debating whether I will need the boost element. My oven is 900W, so 4 elements will be 1800W and it is only ~10L like yours. So with the boost from the kits it will massively powered. (I have 2x this oven : www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MS9NNLK/ ) Interesting that you found the cool down rate difficult. This might be solvable with software? I can understand that it would be hard to find just the right amount of servo angle to get the cool rate right. I don't think that part of the profile is very critical, but if you care about it, it should be possible to do either: a) keep controlling using the servo angle all the way down. ie use a whole separate PID loop to open/close the door ... not a simple change, but should be possible. b) Open the door "slightly too much" and "backfill" this with some heating. ie slow the down the cooling by keeping the elements on a little bit. again requires new PID loop/parameters. (... I am a control systems engineer so I may be overcomplicating this...)

should you keep thermocouple wires so close to the power cables ? These wires are sensitive and can induce fair bit of noise from "switching" AC signal flowing through the power cable

Spectacular!

aaaand subbed!

Thanks for the video, great work! What made you choose to build it with 4 elements out of 2 toasters? Is it worth it to build it with 2 toasters rather than just 1? I'm planning a build, and trying to determine if the "standard model" as described will work fine for me, or if I should just do it right the first time and build a 4 element "deluxe model". It doesn't seem to be too much more work to make a deluxe model, rather than a single toaster. And the cost isn't extreme, at about $40 for the extra toaster. Any advice?

Cool! How long takes the learn cycle?

Really cool!

thank you

Interesting! Would it need a microcontroller to connect the i2c to USB to use as an audio interface? Or can it be clocked by USB? I don't really understand what I am talking about here :-)

Really impressive !