Видео

Wenn ich die Bodenplatte 106 x 70 cm brauche wie müssen dann die anderen Teile sein? Mit der Materialstärke dazu oder abziehen? Die Seitenteile müssen ja dann auch 30cm sein, dann ändert sich wieder alles. OMG wie macht man das wenn man keine Ahnung von Holzbearbeitung hat??? Können sie mir bitte helfen?

Hallo Klaus, your dilema has quite simple solution I believe. Just calculate size differences between your laser machine and NEJE Master 2S MAX and apply calculated differences to dimensions of the box.

Actually after coming back to the video man this was cool af

lol Honestly, W530 ThinkPad was great notebook. I have two of them and both are working fine. The only thing missing at W530 was internal numeric keypad. Missing numeric keypad on mobile workstation, I did not understand the motivation of Lenovo product management to do it like that...

@@indranilmondal3676 yeah, W530 😂 12 years old and still working 👍

Word "fiolish" is taken from what language, please?

Thanks fot your comment. It could be an inspiration to the others. Just a few words related to provided build: - fumes outlet can't be from rear side in my case, since I do not have space behind the box (brick wall behind the table). But above the box I do. - front air inlet holes are more or less kind of "look & feel", I like them as they are. :) - heavy rod on front of the lid would bring more efforts to gas springs and handling of the lid. Honestly, having a gap between the lid and box can serve as an air inlet, too ;) Nevertheless if the box is manufactured properly and sealing is placed properly, then there is no gap, even with opened locks :D The locks I used basically only while moving the box from one place to another :) - fixing laser box to the table is not that necessary, I did not observe any "sgaking" or vibrations or noise. The mass of moving parts is insignifficant to mass of the box. But in case of earthquake, fixing the box to the table does make a sense :)

Sir, everything shall be obvious from provided 2D drawing link in Description, so: - bottom part 1pc 700x1020 mm - side parts made of 2 pcs 700x262 mm (skew cut in accordance to dimensions 535 & 210 mm) - rear part 1pc 1040x262 mm - front parts 1pc 1040x50 mm + 1pc 1040x210 mm - top parts 1pc 1040x547 mm + 1pc 1040x170 mm

@@libor-vitek Danke für die Antwort, eine Frage noch . Welche Klammern verwenden sie im Tacker um die Teile gut zu verbinden?

@@klausrichter5555 In the pneumatic gun I do not use staples, but nails, 25 mm long.

Hi, please check the Description of the video. There is available link "2D drawing for box production" with PDF file containing all necessary dimensions.

Happy to hear you are satisfied and you managed another way 👍

Thanks bro, I had a good teacher when I was young 😉

Thanks 😉

Thanx a lot 😀

Thank you Gonzalo! And yeah, dig feature is available. Beyond that, I am able to run or block any wheel separately, even change its spin direction 🙂 But this is not the end my friend, I am already thinking of completely different and more maneuverable concept 😉

@@libor-vitek I do really like a lot your idea of using the servos as propulsion motors. Actually I think you could have used the servos electronics instead of using ESC, but maybe you way is the easiest way. HAve a look to what I did time ago: ruclips.net/video/hZ67wPU9bRE/видео.html More info in the description. I need to revisit it. As it needs a V3 version or upper 🤣

@@gonzalop.chomon327 Hi Gonzalo, I can see from your video that we have basically the same interest 😁👍 Regarding the servo electronics removal, the main reason I did it was: in fact it's possible to use original servo electronics as a kind of "ESC", but feedback potentiometer has to be precisely centered and fixed (or replaced by pair of resistors) and even in such case the throttle stick position is used the just for +/- 30% of its range of motion (I mean having servo motor in a kind of speed "loop", where you move throttle stick to 30% of its range of motion, the servo motor turns on 100% already), which is more or less manageable, but disadvantage anyway. Using original servo electronics as a kind of "speed controller" was tested from my side, but I did not like its behavior, so I decided rather to use regular ESC instead.

I hope you'll finish your build soon my friend ;) Motivation was one of the reasons why I recorded these videos :)

Thanks for comment! 👍

Hi Björn, thanks a lot for your comment! The features you mentioned are exactly the reasons I used that design 👍 I've bought batch of d4/d4 couplings here: www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099528095707 (PU 5/32 ) 😉

​@@libor-vitekAwesome, thanks for the link and your swift reply :)

You're welcome James. But sorry me again, I do not understand what extensions you mean...

@libor-vitek my apologies Libor, it's my mistake. Using Bambu studio is slightly different to what I've been used to in cura. It all makes sense now though. Thank you so much!

@@Spunge1984 My pleasure James, keeping fingers crossed and happy landing! 😉

Hi James, thanks a lot for your comment and congrats to taking the plunge 🙂👍 I was using 0,4 mm nozzle for all, also for LW-PLA. Before using my brand of LW-PLA (particularly PolyLight 1.0 by 3DLabPrint) I spent quite some time with calibration of slicer. I ended with slicer setup with nozzle temp. 240°C, flow rate 0,6 and printing speed 60 mm/s. Such setup gives vase wall width 0,55 mm, which is in range recommended by 3DLabPrint for their PolyLight 1.0 filament. Regarding the gaps you mentioned, I am not that much sure which gaps you mean. Do you mean the "notch" at the top/back part of Fuselage1 (used for centering "nose" on top/front part of Fuselage2)?

@libor-vitek this is amazing info, thank you so much! The gaps I'm referring to are on fuselage 1 (cockpit and nose). Basically, the base layers when printing are solid with no gaps in them at all, just a completely solid circle. On your print, these have gaps in, one of those you cut out a notch to put the wire through for the wheel steering?

@@Spunge1984 Oh, as the gaps you mean the free inner spaces at the base of Fuselage01 part, if I am not wrong. Please check this video, hopefully it will be helpful for you: ruclips.net/video/OBHTrx2cFuQ/видео.html

Morning Libor, hope you're well and progressing well. I've a question on the prop's you're using. What size are they. Apologies if this is listed somewhere on one of your videos, however i've looked through them and can't find anything.

@@Spunge1984 Hi James, author of this 3D model offers props for 3D printing (STL files starting with syntax "Propeller" in file name), nevertheless I did not want to risk a damage of 3D printed props during flight (which might cause crash), so I bought HQProp 5x4x6 Light Grey www.6sfull.cz/hqprop-5x4x6-light-grey/ Originally I wanted to get some 4-blade 5" props, but it was tricky to find such props to me, but I liked the look of 6-blade ones, so I ordered those 😉

Hi, nose wheels are not printed, but bought off the shelf 😉 www.kavanrc.com/en/item/kolo-penove-25mm-1-0-148999 as well as main wheels: www.kavanrc.com/en/item/kolo-penove-38mm-1-5-149001

@@libor-vitek thank you.

Šílené úsilí? To si děláš srandu. Jo, asi vím, které řešení popisuješ. To zase pro změnu připadá šílené mně.

Thanks for valuable comment!

Hi Tobias, thank for your comment. I've bought particularly this motor set: www.aliexpress.com/item/32831114500.html (mentioned also in the video) I plan to run it from 2S LiPo battery. Assumed throttle in case of 2S and 5x5 props shall be at least 200 grams per motor.

Thank you for the answer :)

Thank you for the answer :)

Thank you for the answer :)

Thank you for the answer :)

Thanx Emre! 😉

the artist is 3p1c-h1d3r

I think the end of the filament cannot pull moisture that way.

Thanks. Yeah, except for a few small things, it's a very well prepared 3D print data. And those few exceptions are why I decided to make these videos😉

Glad to hear that, thanks and good luck! 👍

"Free" gas spring has length 245 mm (measured from ball point to ball point). Stroke is 88 mm.

I've used a kind of "crown" sealing profile. Something like this: en.aag.world/shop/crown-profiles-with-300p.html

Thank you@@libor-vitek

Thanks :) Not sure which measurements you mean, but I am used to use mm ;)

@@libor-vitek in the 2D drawing for box production for the enclosure

@@markbigham6653 Oh this one, it's in milimeters.

@@libor-vitek Thank you

Thanks! 🙂

You are welcome, thanks for comment 🙂

Thank you very much Emre 🙂

​@@libor-vitek555Klepnutím na položku ji vložíte do textollvého pole.Klepnutím na položku ji vložíte do textového pole.Podržením položku připnete. Nelpřinlutlé lplvvoložky budou po hodině smazány.🎉Pomocí ikony úprav můžete pokožky připojení, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úpách cz fg6gxxczfcgz gvvvtfhgtihcgv 5l c můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.Pomocí ikony úprav můžete položky připnout, přidat nebo smazat.

Thank you 🙂 Those are ordinary furniture gas springs. 100 N each if I remember correctly. Available at every hardware store I believe.

Designed and manufactured by myself, by means of my own CNC router 😉 ruclips.net/video/0hrKr4QejcA/видео.html

Ahoj ahoj, dělám co můžu 😄 Díky za sledování 😉

@@libor-vitek na kolik cca takovy co2 vyjde ?

@@hasjan1 Stavba samotného stroje vyšla prakticky na stejné prachy jako koupě hotové mašiny z Aliexpressu (tj. okolo 55 kKč, rozumnějme za materiál, vlastní práci nepočítaje). Ale já jsem potřeboval stroj konkrétních rozměrů (rozměry dány prakticky jediným místem v dílně, kde by se mi ta mašina ještě vešla) a žádný z nabídky hotových strojů mi rozměrově nevyhovoval, tak jsem se rozhodl postavit si svůj vlastní. 🙂

Teria como disponibilizar esse projeto

@@walterteixeira2113 Oi Walter! Well, so far I do not consider such option. May be in the future 😉

Díky 🙂 Šířka 1700, hloubka 700, výška 450 mm. Celkové náklady se pohybují okolo 55 kKč.

Yeah Mark, really not a bad idea, you can do the inner radius greater than material thickness, but then there might be an issue that glued parts could deform a bit inwards. But it also depends on strength of used rubber band. Just try and then you could drop a feedback here 😉