Видео

😂😂😂

You may laugh, but I also got a price for getting various (small) items chromed - not just the hinges - but the charge was out of this world ... £250 + VAT! - probably down to the labour cost of handling smaller items. I wasn't expecting a bright polished chrome finish, but based on my results painting the picture frames, I thought they would come out a bit better. Why didn't I do two coats ...? Well I was concerned that if I put too much paint on, I might gunge up the hinges ... but I may well have got away with it. The biggest disappointment though was the less than robust paint surface - it can't be right for traces of paint to come off on your fingers (after a week of drying time). Cheers, Chris

Just measured mine. Absolute minimum head size - 47cm, Absolute max. head size. 58cm (but I think 56cm would be a safer bet as it's on the limit of the velcro strap.) I would say it's too small if your head size is 62cm. I had the same issue when I reviewed the LC-Dolida one .... ruclips.net/video/zjkLKsMVxhk/видео.htmlsi=vVi6Px3CGmX_ZpfM Cheers, Chris

Worth knowing. Thanks for the heads up.

I'm afraid I disagree - it depends on your circumstances. Fine if you're comfortable doing a bit of electrical work yourself (done plenty of it myself), but if you have to pay a sparky to fit a new batten, you're talking anywhere from £50 to £100+, plus the cost of the batten (min. £40 to get 6000+ lumens based on Screwfix today). If you're unsure whether it will be suitable for your existing fitting, fine, then take advice. But each to their own. Cheers

@handyman-at-home While, to some extent, I agree. Manufacturers won't continue to make LED tubes when LED fittings are ready available. I used to work in the trade. Bite the bullet and replace your fitting

I'm certainly sceptical about the claimed lifetime for LED bulbs of various forms ... I've swapped more 'LED Candle' bulbs than I've had hot dinners ... but I think the problem lies in the fact that they're all churned out in China where (not always but a lot of the time) they use the cheapest components they can. Having said that, I have found an LED GU10 which works very well for us, as it has an above average brightness (660lm / 5.7W) so I don't need the head torch anymore 🤣. www.toolstation.com/integral-led-classic-gu10-dimmable-lamp/p36746 if you're interested. How you track lifetime though, beyond timing when you switch on and off, is the problem - but life's too short for all of that ... Cheers, Chris

Fitted 19 LED gu10 spots in our kitchen and utility 11 years ago. Have only had to replace 3 lamps in that time. Power consumption is a fraction of the old lamps that came with the fittings. Only disadvantage is the kitchen gets cold in the winter! All the lamps are Screwfix own brand. I fitted dimmable LED lamps in our daughter’s bedroom ten years ago. No failures yet, touch wood.

Interesting! I mainly bought these down to the fact that Screwfix didn't have any fluorescents and I thought they were worth a try, rather than specifically on the energy consumption. Cheers, Chris

Glad you found it useful. Chris

Exactly. I agree it's marginal ... 6 to 10% based on my, admittedly limited, testing ... but there is a difference. I haven't taken one of these tubes apart, but from what I can see, they are essentially just a ribbon string of LEDs, stuck to the inner surface of the tube. Cheers, Chris

I'm still happy with mine. Cheers, Chris

A lot to take in there, so apologies for not replying sooner. It's not a case that I was 'ignoring costs that I didn't like' - I was pretty clear that the spreadsheet was put together by someone else - but I certainly accept that it doesn't take account of maintenance & repair costs, and the 'lost opportunity cost' of not investing the money, (both of which would apply to purchasing a new gas boiler - but how many people work out the payback period for that - or indeed a new car, or a new kitchen or a holiday...?) I won't argue with any of the numbers you've stated - I'm more interested in your view on solar power. Is it that you don't think it's the right thing to do, or is it that you think it's being mis-sold, based on dubious economic claims / savings / payback periods? Cheers, Chris

Hi, Thanks for the feedback. You raise a great point i.e. accounting for the 'lost opportunity cost'. Although I'd personally argue that buying gold is more speculation than investing, I wouldn't have minded grabbing some of the price rise that has occurred in the last few months ... But your general point is quite valid. In our case we were lucky enough not to have to take a loan to pay for the solar, but even so, we still 'lost' interest on that money had it stayed in a savings account, or been invested in stocks & shares. I think the problem is that - AFAIK - there is no standard payback model used throughout the solar industry, so some will account for lost interest and some won't, and thus it becomes difficult/impossible to compare. The spreadsheet wasn't mine, and I haven't had chance to look at any of the others on Gary's list, so for now I'd quite happily accept that the stated payback period should come with the caveat "Does not take account of lost interest". Cheers, Chris

Cheers. Glad you found it helpful.

Hi, I'm not sure I can advise really. I guess as long as your batteries are connected in parallel, then taking the + and - cables both from the master, rather than one on the master and one on the lowest battery as I have, probably doesn't make any difference. However, I personally wouldn't be comfortable not having some form of fusing protection in-between the batteries and the inverter. Have you looked at what the installation manual(s) recommend? Cheers, Chris

Thanks for the feedback. The only issue I have noticed since making the video is that the +/- buttons can sometimes be a bit problematic i.e. instead of adjusting the volume, they can occasionally result in moving to the next or previous track. But this is probably down to not holding them down properly (to adjust the volume). I've also just looked at the instructions again, and I wonder if there's a mistake for the 'Previous Track' instruction ... I think this should perhaps be 'Press once during music playback' otherwise it's exactly the same as the 'Volume Down' instruction ... which doesn't make sense. Not sure if that helps? Cheers, Chris

Hi, we keep ours just outside the back door of our garage. I don't know where you live, but we tend not to have very cold winters here, but for the last couple of years we've wrapped the wheelie bin with a couple of layers of large sized bubble wrap, with another piece to go over the top (which can be easily removed if needed). That seems to have kept the temperature inside above freezing whenever it has got cold. We leave it on from around mid November through to late Feb. / early March. We also have a thermometer hanging inside to keep an eye on the air temperature. So far, we've not had any problems and have a thriving wormery. In fact, we tend to suffer from the bin getting too warm during the summer months, even though it's in the shade, so quite often have the lid propped slightly or fully open. Hope that helps, Chris

@@handyman-at-home I live in England, Yorkshire, sometimes we get down to -5C during the cold snaps, do you have any issues with worms trying to escape? Also can I ask what size your bin is? For reference as I’m thinking of trying it myself Thanks for the reply :)

Hi, I'm over in West Lancashire, near Ormskirk so I'd suspect we've got a slightly milder climate, but not too much 🤣 We occasionally get some worms 'climbing' up the inside of the bin, and onto the underside of the lid. Never more than half a dozen when it happens, but they do sometimes wiggle their way underneath the bin lid lip and make a bid for freedom. Usually happens during/after heavy rainfall - probably the sound on the bin lid. Think our bin is 240 litre - not sure if I say that in the video. Give it a go - it's surprising how interesting it is - my wife does most of the looking after them 🤣 The only thing I'd say, based on our experience, is that I personally think a wheelie bin is too large to start off with. Maybe consider a smaller tub or crate. There's plenty of options if you google 'worm farm bin' or 'worm farm crate' etc. Cheers

This is where we got our worm bin from ... theurbanworm.co.uk/

Hi, Thanks for commenting. For sure, the front half of the roof only had a moderate thickness applied - it was basically what was left in the tin after I'd done two thickish coats on the two seams. Of course, what I can't say is whether the leak was coming in through the seams, or whether it was in fact coming through somewhere else on the front half of the roof, as it was all done at the same time. As I've written elsewhere, I totally accept you need at least two thick coats, but my point was then that the cost would then be at least the same (if not more) than just completely re-felting the whole roof. So my view ... good for patch repairs, if you put it on thick enough. Cheers, Chris

@@handyman-at-home For a shed yeah but my flat roof is over a third of my kitchen so its a good few hundred at least to have felted by proper means - hot torch etc. Why I'm looking for just a couple of years additional life. There's another product that's come onto my radar - Cromapol, only about £33 for the 5l/5kg tin and does seem a little more of a professional product. ;)

Hi, Thanks for your comment. I hadn't seen the Lindab brand so took a quick look after your post. Wouldn't be an option for me, as I wasn't looking to replace all the guttering on the house, just a section around the garage, and so wouldn't want to end up with two different styles. I can see it would probably last significantly longer than plastic, and I'm generally in favour of less plastic where we can, but it's certainly not cheaper. Cheers, Chris

@@handyman-at-home Thanks for the comment. i raised it as a viable alternative to plastic and I understand your point. As regards cost I found it to be cheaper even though it was imported from Sweden but that may have been particular market conditions at the time relating to the cost of oil/plastics. Steel systems like this are very popular on the continent and that can mostly be because of the cost advantage. I actually replaced the plastic guttering around my house, a total length of ~125ft(38m). The whole system has to be laid flat because of the limited location of the downpipes and underground drainage. The plastic system was a constant problem with joints weeping and pulling out due to the long lengths and the expansion and contraction. The Lindab system has been in situ now for over 5 years and has been 100% reliable and durable. i have also noted that the guttering remains remarkably clean, meaning that I have not had to clean it out during the whole time, whereas it was an annual event with the plastic.

👍👍 The new plastic guttering I put up seemed to be a lot more 'wobbly' than the old stuff that I took down - I didn't measure the thickness but I suspect it was thinner plastic - seems to be the modern trend - make stuff as cheaply as possibly ... 😞 Hopefully will last me out until I depart ... 🤣

@@handyman-at-home One other thing that I am really please about with the Lindab guttering is how rigid it is. It has a complete rolled front edge that stiffens it up no end, ladders simply don't deflect it, whereas with the previous plastic gutter it bent that actually made it more difficult to clean out and I was always concerned about breakage especially at the brackets. There is no concern about the Lindab brackets, they are unbelievably thick steel ~4-5mm. You may guess I am a fan?

👍

Yes, the original Dual speed control belt is a toothed version, but they are harder to source and much more expensive these days, so that's why the video is about using the alternate (non-toothed) solution from Malvern Hills Audio. Seemed to work pretty well. Cheers, Chris

Glad it's not just me 🤣

Good question... I'd filmed a little bit on the British Standard but then decided not to include it as I thought I was getting a bit nerdy 🤣 Some of my brackets are marked BS 1462 and some BS 4576. BS 4576 has been withdrawn, leaving the current standard as BS EN 1462:2004 I found a preview of it at ... knowledge.bsigroup.com/products/brackets-for-eaves-gutters-requirements-and-testing?version=standard which does have a Section 6 on Design, but it costs £150 to get the full version so needless to say I didn't bother 🤦‍♂️ Would be interested to know what it says (if anything) though ... Cheers, Chris

Glad it was helpful!

It takes Type 55 staples and was supplied with 20mm long versions It should accept 15 to 32mm long versions (as long as they are Type 55) but I haven't tested it with them Link to 19mm long Type 55 on Amazon ... amzn.eu/d/186OqeI

I couldn't believe I hadn't picked up on it myself .... glad it proved useful. Cheers, Chris

Hi Alan, Thanks for the feedback and positive outcome with Solis support. I may well give them another try at some point. Cheers, Chris

Depends on the battery technology used. Certainly keeping reserves at the bottom saves a lot of headaches if thr batteries were completely drained and acknowledge other reasons however if using lithium oxcide there is no logic to having only 90% of the storage used. Set it to 100% Andy at the off grid garage covers this in detail in past videos if you require reassurance.

Thanks both - will take a look at Andy's channel.

Thanks!

Thanks! Glad it proved helpful. Cheers, Chris

Thanks! Have just started a major repair to a wooden window sill. I'm a glutton for punishment 🤣

Good for you!! Glad it proved helpful. Cheers, Chris

Thanks for the great feedback Suzy - glad it proved useful. We're still very pleased with it, and despite being a VAX owner for the past 10+ years, it looks like it was the right decision for us. Happy Hoovering! Chris

Hi, Thanks for the feedback. I agree to some extent with what you say, in that the thicker you apply this stuff, the better. However, it does claim to be one coat… The usage instructions say ‘Apply by brush in one coat at a rate of 1-2 litres per square metre’ which gives you a thickness of 1 to 2mm if my maths is correct. I definitely applied it thickly over the two rows of staples initially, but it’s fair to say that when I used up the remainder of the tin on the larger area, it wasn’t as thick. However, it was certainly thicker than is now apparent after 6 months, which leads me to believe it does shrink slightly over time / as it dries out. The usage instructions go on to say ‘In extreme cases, a second coat may be applied 2-3 days after initial application.’ I’d probably take the view that, like you, a second coat is required in ALL circumstances. Having used it for two or three different jobs, I'd say... - Easy and quick to apply - Can be used on wet surfaces - Good for emergency or short-term repairs - Really needs two coats to be properly effective - Still working after 6 months (on a poor quality felt) - Don't expect it to last more than a year at most - Only as good as the underlying surface - can start to peel off Cheers, Chris

@@handyman-at-home You do realise you've painted at least 3 square metres? Maybe even 4. As you say "The usage instructions say ‘Apply by brush in one coat at a rate of 1-2 litres per square metre" So you've not even hit half the application rate 😕 You have 2.5l and are assuming its the seam that's failed. Not sure this is a fair review

Hi, Thanks for commenting. I've re-watched the video and don't think it's unfair, given that I started off by saying that it had stopped the leak. As I've replied to your other comment, I accept you need at least two thick coats, but my point is then that the cost would be at least the same (if not more) than just completely re-felting the whole roof. So my view ... good for patch repairs, if you put it on thick enough. Cheers, Chris

Agreed. Bit disappointing really. it's definitely only a short-term fix. Cheers, Chris

Glad it proved useful. Cheers, Chris

Thanks for the tip 👍Cheers, Chris

Hi, We're still very pleased with it. I was initially in favour of just getting another VAX but I think we made the right decision in going for the Hoover. It's lighter, easier to handle but still cleans very well. Cheers, Chris

Wow - they're expensive! The Einhell ones are definitely more cost-effective than the cheapo ones I tried - they last longer, and as such they don't need changing as frequently, so less time spent faffing about instead of strimming. The cheapo Amazon ones I got have similarly been sent to recycling...

Hi, Thanks for the feedback! 😊 If you're not in a hurry, I'll be doing a review of a cheaper version that has been gifted to me for review, sometime in the next couple of weeks. I've warmed to the SnoozeBand more since doing the review - the key for me is to not have it too tight. Cheers

Thanks. Yes, I agree about the kick plate, but I only thought about it later 😞 Good luck with the french doors 👍

👍 I’d have been happier to buy nothing 🤣🤣

Thanks! Yes, I got a similarly ridiculous quote from my installer. As long as you take your time and do things step by step, I believe most people could do this safely. 👍

Good luck. Hope it works out ok. I need to go and check on the shed roof at some point but as far as I know it's been fine since I put the second coat on. Cheers

Thanks for the great feedback. 👍

Thanks for the feedback! I too have been sorting through my collection of (mainly 80's) LP's, though it sounds like you've got a bigger task on your hands .... Cheers, Chris