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no, you should check the PAP again using the two handed style. They should be drastically different from one another.

@@spectrebowling Than you for clarifying that for me.🤝

Thank you very much!

In that case, for your first ball, we suggest doing a generic layout using a symetrical bowling ball. Here is that video. ruclips.net/video/BkeUY16Gxw0/видео.html

Hi Steve. This is done on a symmetrical ball to get a spot on the equator of the ball. 6 3/4 is a quarter of the ball on the surface.

Not sure I understand the question. PAP has to be measured on the lane, it is very hard to do this without having the bowler throw a ball down the lane. A bowler can know their PAP, however most bowlers won’t know it by heart. I recommend checking the bowlers PAP every couple of years for recurring customers. Hope this answers the question.

@@spectrebowling I had a Pro Shop drill my ball, but he never had me throw it down the lane. I'm assuming he just used a generic pap. I guess that's why it rolls like he guessed at it. I ordered a Amidillo can I do a full ball layout with it,... without using the Pro-Sect.... I appreciate your help... tks

Hi Jimmy. It’s hard to describe over text. Basically you see if there is a bump on either side of the thumb joint. If your total thumb move is v.100/h.100. Then the half back cut v.100/.050. Basically adding a cut at the end, at the same height but half the horizontal movement. I’ll shoot a video about that. Thanks for the idea.

@@spectrebowling thanks for the reply. Can’t wait for the video.

Sorry for the late reply. We would need more information to help us make that decision. You can watch this video on how to identify the necessary data for your bowling style, those 5 points will help us make the right decision for you. ruclips.net/video/756caMQ2zj8/видео.htmlsi=UtE1j8bM3KQ50ahX

Agreed, during play it isn’t recommended, however for bringing this pair of shoes back to life, it’s an important part to do off the lanes.

any proshop should have a shoe brush in stock. Most brushes are made of brass if i'm not mistaken. You can also find some made with vinyl bristles that will do the trick just fine, i show it at the 1:05 mark, that is the Brunswick branded brush.

Those oversized bits are for slugs, not for interchangeables. I do recommend them, if you watch out ‘how to cut an oval’ video, I mention that.

Yes. At 4:07 you can notice that there is a line on the outer and I line that up with the center line.

could depend on many factors, lane pattern, lane surface, ball surface and core could have big influences in how the ball slows down during its journey towards the pins.

We’re a dealer for Innovative in Canada and I’ve always wanted to see how John and his team run the class. I had the privilege to be part of the instructor team with Cecil at he class and look forward to working in the future with them. I’m presenting at the IBPSIA conference in Denver on Sunday as well.

And I do host the IBPSIA HOTS classes in Montreal Canada. We do 4 classes a year.

@markbuffa5840 Good to know. I hope to attend one of those classes. I have a question. If you're drilling an oval, would this eliminate the pitch you would put in the ball? If not, how would you drill an oval with pitch?

@@electrician240 watch the video again, we mention it at 3:57. The example uses 3/16 reverse as a starting pitch. Basically your first step is that you put the pitch on the machine. Everything is relative to that starting point.

We have a surface pro 3 and 4. I kept an eye out for anything refurbished, since the shop is an easy place for the device to get damaged, we didn’t want to put new devices on the drill presses.

Of course. Follow the same steps. Just the last step for VLS would be changed to measure the pin to center of grip distance for 2LS.

One of my favorite urethane balls!!! The ones i really liked I simply put the CG 1/2" positive side and 1/2" positive finger at the time. It has such a small bearing on what you can get out of ball motion. At the time, I had also tried the plastic ball layout that Mo Pinel had come up with for the PBA plastic ball championship, however that needs a weight hole and in today's standards can't be done anymore... and to be honest, I didn't like the reaction. Hope this helps.

@@spectrebowling What about for 2 handers, can the same logic be applied? And do you think the 2LS layout would work on the Fab Hammers?

I don’t think it’s succion. Did you do the proper steps with the ‘ball-it’. Did you knock it down with the push down rod and also install the expander?

Check the tabs of the inner, maybe they are worn out. Is it the same on another ball?

@@spectrebowling i put some paper and glue to the inner, only that has the problem, and it solved hehe thank you

Agreed, however we wanted to educate bowlers on how to care for their shoes if they are in bad shape. I get too many clients that come in with black soles and don’t do anything to their soles, so we felt the need to do a video to explain how to bring beat up shoes back to life.

I always liked going front to back in between shots. But this video was intended for just general shoe care, we have so many clients come into the shop with black soles and never clean the slide pad that I felt we needed to shoot a short video just for that and put it on our monitors in the shop. But yes great comment, thank you.

Yes slide stone would be a great in-game replacement for powder. However, for recovery maintenance, similar to the example of my son's shoe, we needed to do much more than just hit it with a slide stone. Thanks for the comment and it is a valid point, thanks for sharing that.

Its 3.22”, so it goes go deeper. If you check the installation document on the Jopo website that’s where I got the depth number from.

You’re going to need to wear out the clips a bit. Basically lock, unlock a bunch of times to loosen up the clips. If you wanna bring it back to us so we can double check.

@@markbuffa5840 Hey, just saw your reply! Is there any way we could set up an appointment? I also had questions about thumb hole size/shape

Yes there is a booking page on our homepage and also you can call the shop to Book some time or simply walk in.

PAP values are just that, there isn't anything to say about them. So in your case, you're simply 4 3/4 x 0. If you give that to any proshop, they should be good to go with any layout you'd request.

Take the one closest to the fingers and thumb. Follow that one all the way around to measure the tilt. If you place the ball track parallel to the counter top it will give you a good visual to if you drew the line correctly.

Most of the time it's because you're turning the hand too early. I try to tell people to point their thumb to the ceiling at the top of the back swing, this will allow them to rotate the ball at release. If your hand is already on the side of the ball at release, the only way you can turn is the "opposite" direction, this is what causes the full-roll. A good at home exercise is to throw an american football underhand with a spiral, do a bit of pitch-and-catch with a friend and this will hopefully help your release.

@@spectrebowling thanks, I'll try what you said and hopefully it all works out. Thanks again.

Yes it will affect the lane, however the lane burn you see on the ball could also be dust or dirt caused by the pinsetter and not the lane itself. Hard to give a correct answer to this in the comment section.

The PAP is based off the grip CENTER. So when you're done this layout process, you have the grip center. The Midline is the line that cuts thru the middle of your palm horizontally and the center line is thru the center of the thumb and intersecting the fingers. If your full span is 4 inches, you start from the middle and draw a cut line 2 inches on each side. I hope this makes sense.

thanks for watching!