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The gap isn’t any larger than the gap with the stock bumper. Keep in mind that the body is on rather soft mounts. If you make the bumper too close it'll bang into the body on rough roads.

This is just my prediction, since I haven't tried it, but I see 2 things happening. 1) if you leave everything connected, but also splice into the wires and supply power to the disconnect, it's going to backfeed power to the computer, probably triggering an error, and possibly damaging the electronics. 2) If you clip the wires and run them to the switch in the same manner I did, when you flip the switch then the computer is going to see the sway bar not in the commanded state, triggering an error code. If you disconnect the sway bar from the factory wiring entirely, and wire it up like I did you will definitely get error codes. The issue is that I've only connected to the actuator solenoids. There are also sensors on the actuator that tell the computer what the sway bar status is. In a non-badlands this is fine because the computer isn't looking for input from those sensors. In a badlands however the computer knows there should be sensors, and they should be showing it what it wants to see. If the computer wants it to be locked, but it's unlocked, you'll get an error. If it doesn't see the sensors at all you'll get an error. I'd be willing to bet that the majority of people with Badlands who have gotten sway bar errors didn't actually have a problem with the sway bar, but rather with the position sensors. I guess that's a long way of saying that if you have a badlands, you're probably stuck with the computer nannies.

If it put the left on the right and right on the left it looks like I may be able to achieve 36 on center if I trim the new brackets to allow them to sit closer to the axle c's.

@@RandyPeters-w7q Nice!

Don't really need a whole video for that. I flip the switch, it disconnects. I turn the switch off, it reconnects. Flawless!

@stinkyfabracing appreciate the quick response.I will be going this route with my everglades, Bronco. Thanks

@rahxephonyt4282 if they are similar in size to the Baja Designs squadrons or rigid D-series, yes.

Turn off the switch.

@@stnkbg1how does it re-center?

​@brock13r technically it doesn't. Once your suspension levels out it reengages in the neutral position. It doesn't like force you back to level or anything.

@paulvasta6159 nope, it's been flawless. I generally flip the switch right after airing down and leave it disconnected until i hit pavement again. Bronco has no idea it's even there.

It uses the same bolts

@@stnkbg1Thank you! Ordered the sway bar disconnect and have the harness. Going to install as soon as it gets here.

Price seems to vary but I've seen them frequently for around $1500

@@stnkbg1 I just recently got a totaled out 2021 ford ranger lariat tremor, I plan to install this on that ranger. It’s my understanding that the bronco is built on a modified version of the ranger frame. Would love some measurements to ensure this would “bolt up” to the ranger frame as I plan (hope) to do exactly the same thing on a factory rocker switch on the dash in the ranger. If you need my email or cell phone, let me know

We designed these with drilling the hole larger in mind, and purposely left extra material there for that. We make them in large production runs though, so there isn't an easy way to customize one.

We just got the first production samples from laser cutting for test fitting. The first production run should be ready in a few weeks.

66 foot pounds

@@stnkbg1 thanks!

When engaged it's the same as the non disconnect sway bar in your wildtrak. The bronco in the video is a wildtrak as well.

@@stnkbg1 thanks bud:)

The ranger raptor has more in common with the standard bronco than the bronco raptor. The entire front frame and suspension sections are the same as far as we could tell from the Ford 3D models. The badlands disconnect would likely bolt right up. No idea if the braptor one would or not.

@@stnkbg1can’t wait to find out. Hook it to an aux like this gentleman did…and boom…f+r lockers already come standard.

I would be surprised if it didn't throw some kind of code, but it might depend on how you hook it up. If you unplug the entire assembly the computer will probably throw a code because it's not getting feedback from the sensors. I wonder if you left the sensors plugged in, while bypassing the solenoid wires what would happen. My guess is that when the sway bar is connected all will be fine, but it'll probably throw an error when you disconnect. The real question is will the error clear when you reconnect?

@@stinkyfabracing oh good point. I’ll see if I can also buy a male version of that plug so I can build me a little bypass without cutting anything and still keeping the connection to the sensors. Thanks for the feedback. 👊😎

The stabilizer has its own sub-harness that goes from the one big plug and splits to the 4 plugs for the solenoids and sensors. For your setup it might be better to find the connectors for the solenoids directly, rather than the one i used that connects to that sub-harness. This way you could just unplug the solenoids and then plug your new wiring in without cutting anything.

@@stinkyfabracing you’re the man. How do I pay you a consulting fee?

@daineclark 😂 no need for that, but feel free to take a look though stinkyfab.com and see if you like any of our products!

That's not really something you can easily measure. The sway bar does not limit actual travel, it limits articulation. The front tires will still travel up and down the exact same distance, the difference is how easily one side can now compress while the other extends. With a standard sway bar (and with this one connected) both sides are joined by the sway bar. The amount of articulation you get is a product of how much load you put on it and how much the sway bar flexes. You'll get more flex on a downhill with all the weight on the front of the vehicle for example. With the disconnect the sway bar is no longer fighting that articulation.

If you measure from ground to the forks that was the measurement I was talking about

​@michaelnice4753 i didn't, because that's not a very relevant measurement since it will vary with loading. The suspension was never fully compressed in either lift, and even just lifting front vs. Rear gets a different height because of weight transfer. I can say that after disconnecting i was able to lift roughly 4-5 more inches on each end after disconnecting.

It's pretty noticeable in the roll characteristics when you're driving, but other than the switch position and light on the switch there isn't any indication of if it's engaged or not. You can turn the switch off the switch any time, and it reconnects once it gets to the "level" position. You don't have to be on flat ground to re-engage, but it won't actually reconnect until the suspension gets back to center.

@@stinkyfabracing interesting! Thanks for the reply. I’ll have to add this to the list!

as far as I can tell all they did was swap different shocks onto the 23 wildtraks. I don't see any reason it wouldn't still fit, as the connections at the control arms are still the same.

Thank you

Like I said in the video, any Ford dealer can order the assembly, or you can just use the ebay link I put in the description. That's where I got this one, and google searching the part number will come up with lots of sources.

Have you tried unlocking Rock Crawling GOAT mode with Forscan? I wonder if it would trigger the disconnect and if that would conflict with the AUX 1 position@@stinkyfabracing

The outer most lights are spaced 25" on center.

Yes. The bottom edge is flush with the frame rails, so there will actually be a small gap between the bottom of the bumper and the stock metal "skids" similar to the one shown during most of the install. I use quotes because they are so thin as to not really be skid plates at all. The skid shown at the end of the video is the one we designed for this, and the plastic bumpers, which comes all the way forward.

Well the full truth is that when i ordered it, i couldn't afford it either. Things changed, I sold a very nice Jeep we built for the shop, and a year later the shop could afford it, but ford hadn't built it so I bought a different one for the business. 7 more months later they finally built it, and i couldn't afford a second one, but also couldn't pass up on the huge discount that it came with via price protection, so I talked a family member into buying it instead.

All of our products are manufactured in Southern California, but www.stinkyfab.com is where they are sold.