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Thank you very much! 😊

Because they weren't on ebay until people started making them...

The one I bought was sold as 5326-123-2018, but may actually have been 5326-123-2037 as the radius on the intake nozzle needed to be changed.

Yes, it's trying to pump air all the time, so it won't spin for long, even with "frictionless" bearings. It does sound awful here - the cage-less bearings are very noisy when they're dry and the balls don't really space out properly until the bearing is running. Everything is OK though.

Yep, it surprised me too the first time I measured it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

@@EnglishTurbines Thank you. The Schreckling was the first to catch my attention, back in the 1990s sometime. I still have a hankering to try and build one as I think it was a pioneering design (hopelessly out of date now though).

@@Mister_G Yes, the closed face or covered compressor is unique in its design and actually makes it very efficient at low speeds in particular. Difficult to reproduce in metal though...🤔😳🇬🇧

Thank you very much indeed!

Thank you

Thank you very much! 🙂

Hi - I've documented the build on my website (see the pinned post)

Thank you, but I could not find the programming required on the site.​@@Mister_G

@@nurullaherikli7741 Sorry. What do you mean by 'programming' - do you mean the dimensions?

​@@Mister_GI'm sorry, I wrote it wrong, the keyboard corrected it incorrectly, I couldn't find the necessary calculations on the site, I meant to say.

@@nurullaherikli7741 Ahhh - I didn't do any calculations - I just followed the design in Kamps' book.

Get hold of 'Model Jet Engines' by Thomas Kamps - it has plans and build instructions for this engine. www.sarikhobbies.com/product/model-jet-engines-3rd-edition-by-thomas-kamps/

so you think its feasible to build one from scratch without having built a kit owned a factory built engine? @@Mister_G

is this the KJ-66? @@Mister_G

@@sweetgumnyc7794 No, the Kamps engine.

Thanks! 😊. The figure I worked to was ~1% of the fuel flow should go as lube. I guess that the maximum fuel flow is of the order of 250ml/minute, so 1% would be 2.5ml/min - in the same ball park as your 5ml/min. I fitted a 0.4mm ID x 25mm long needle in the lube line as recommended in the book. By Poiseuilles formula, it **should** give ~1% flow when fed at the same pressure as the 6 off fuel injectors that are 0.6mm ID x 50mm long. A little bit too much is probably a lot better than not quite enough.

@@Mister_G Thanks for the answer, very comprehensive. I still have a doubt about the bearing seat. The bearings have a diameter of 22 mm, the front one is planted in the seat, while the rear one is free to slide due to the pre-load of the spring. Could you give me an idea of ​​the tolerances? For example, the bearings have a diameter of 22mm, the front seat must be 22mm + 0.01? While the rear must have a seat of 22 + 0.02 to slide? What tolerances did you adopt?

@@MarcoFormentin No problem. I'm a hobby machinist, so usually work to make things fit, rather than machining everything to a tolerance. I do know, however, that +0.01will give a loose fit and is far too big for either bearing. If you need tolerances, someone like SKF has technical data that will give the required tolerances for the bearing housing - they will be in microns for this size of bearing (maybe something like -0.001 / +0.003). The rear bearing only just needs to slide - better described as a loose press fit, rather than a sliding fit - bear in mind that the fit will loosen as the shaft tunnel heats up in use. If you're machining them yourself, just creep up on the size and test for fit.

@@Mister_G Everything is very clear, thanks, yes I spelled it wrong, the tolerance would be +0.001. I have one last question, it's about the tree tunnel. Did you use simple aluminum or some particular alloy, such as duralumin?

@@MarcoFormentin I'm pretty sure it was one of the 6XXX alloys (maybe 6082). I don't believe it's critical, so any of the 6XXX or 2XXX alloys should be OK.

Thanks for the comment: This was just the first test run, so only gas (propane) was used. Because of this I had a separate lubricant supply as a temporary arrangement. The later video has it running on kerosene with some used for lubrication. ruclips.net/video/cECE_XQOrdQ/видео.htmlsi=Gz5PFzfzmgn5KkEO Google translate:"Danke für den Kommentar. Dies war nur der erste Testlauf, daher wurde nur Gas (Propan) verwendet. Aus diesem Grund hatte ich vorübergehend eine separate Schmierstoffversorgung. Im späteren Video läuft es mit Kerosin, wobei etwas davon zur Schmierung verwendet wird."

Like this :) ruclips.net/video/ZvoJ1ksTRlo/видео.html&ab_channel=MisterG

Thank you very much!

Thanks very much. I was really pleased with how it turned out.

Hi - there are two other videos on my channel that show the engine with this turbine wheel in action: ruclips.net/video/K1eyy7V9sas/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/cECE_XQOrdQ/видео.html The stator (NGV) blades are fabricated from stainless steel (as they don't experience the same stresses as the rotating turbine wheel) - there are pictures on my website (see description for link). You would need several such wheels with stators in between to make a multi stage axial compressor that would have a high enough pressure ratio for a jet engine (they wouldn't need to be high temperature alloy though). Far easier to use a single stage radial compressor (i.e. turbocharger wheel) - they're readily available and comparatively cheap. Thanks for watching, and for taking the time to comment.

@@Mister_GThen, it's really fascinating. Thanks for the info!

Thank you - I don't think I'd get many volunteers for CNC machining nickel super alloy 😉

@@Mister_G Have you considered SLS 3D printing?

@@Quatuux I haven't, but it would seem to be a realistic proposition for complex parts in inconel 718. No idea of the cost involved. (I have seen rocket motor components being SLS printed at very well known rocket and electric car manufacturing company in California.)

Hi - Thanks very much! The finished turbine wheel is the one inside the jet engine running in my other videos. The compressor wheel is a commercial turbocharger spare part.

Thank you! No, nothing to sell, this is just a hobby 🙂

@@Mister_G even fishing is a hobby collecting marbles is the hobby but at some point people do sell their their Hobbies off thanks for getting back to me

@@CHARLIE1955able No Worries! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment 👍

Hi - it is a gas turbine: It has a combustion chamber inside that is being supplied with fuel (propane/butane in this case).

Thank you very much indeed!

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. The fuel is propane in this video - there is no air in it at all. The leak is from the pressure feed to the lubricant supply.

The engine was made with a Chinese mini lathe. Feel free to drop me a message via my website if you like.

It would be cheaper to buy a cast wheel than to buy all the equipment just for this, but if you already have a lathe it's just normal workshop tools.

Sorry, I don't have 3D printer files. The design belongs to Thomas Kamps, and the drawings are in the book.

@@Mister_G oh, thanks alot for the guidence

​@@Mister_GThe book that you mentioned in the description does not ship to India and the only option i have is to search on Amazon cuz Amazon had this book but it costs ₹42.8k INR that is £406 ($517 USD)💀💀💀, No way i can afford it Do u have the pdf of the book😶‍🌫️ any chance?

@@dakumangalsingh1384 I don't but I believe you may be able to find one on the internet...

I did try and warn you in the introduction! 😅 Thanks for watching and commenting, anyway,

Thank you very much for taking the time to comment. Glad you enjoyed it.

Интересно, спасибо. (Interesting, thank you) ("I have planar-8 24 volt. It also consumes 8 amps at startup and peaks at 10 amps for 2-3 seconds. Apparently the glow plugs are the same")

Me too. :)

Thank you very much!

Thank you! شكراً جزيلاً

Thank you very much - glad you liked it.

My turbine was only statically balanced as an assembly with the shaft. The shaft is straight and true; the compressor wheel is dynamically balanced by the manufacturer, and a shrink fit on the shaft, so the only thing that should be out of balance is the turbine wheel. Getting this in static balance should mean that the assembly has reasonable dynamic balance. Stage 1 - with the turbine mounted on the shaft, and bearings installed, you gently rock it to and fro, and the turbine settles with its heavy spot at the bottom. Remove a bit of metal from the heavy spot and try again, until it doesn't have any bias towards a particular position. Step 2 - hold the assembly by one of the bearings between finger and thumb and use a gently stream of compressed air to spin the turbine. Add a small piece of tape (about 5mm x 5mm) and move it around on the turbine until you feel the least vibration through your fingers. Remove a small amount of metal opposite the tape and try again. You eventually get to the point where you can't feel any vibration, and adding the tape anywhere makes things worse. I think that's OK for this engine, as it 'only' revs to ~100k RPM. For faster speeds, dynamic balancing is probably required, and people have built various machines using piezo transducers under each bearing to do that.

Thank you - the rotor was balanced before assembly 🙂

@@Mister_G я и не сомневался, что все вращающиеся детали, были отбалансированы перед сборкой, но после сборки, они должны быть отбалансированы совместно. Поэтому купленные двигатели, нельзя разбирать, если не хочешь потерять балансировку.

@@aleksandrkargin1978 True - I am relying on the compressor wheel being well balanced from the factory. This engine only runs up to 100k RPM so not quite as critical as commercial engines. Thank for the kind comments 🙂

Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it - it certainly sounds impressive when you're stood next to it.

Thomas! 🤩Thank you so for your work on the design and the book - It helped me achieve an ambition that I've held ever since I saw Kurt Schreckling's FD3 back some time in the 1990s. Thank you so much for your kind comments - I'm glad you found the video!

Hi - Thanks for the comment 🙂

Hi! Yes, that would be a good idea. I may well have used that method if I was aware of it at the time. When I built my small CNC, I used (ordinary) metal filled epoxy as a 'liquid shim' between the gantry and the base - set everything up straight and square and then, once the epoxy had cured, tightened the bolts up. I basically copied the method in the video by Steffan Gotteswinter where he uses the real stuff to align his milling machine ruclips.net/video/U7Qs-J2swIc/видео.html Thanks for taking the trouble to comment 🙂

@@Mister_G I should have said it was used as a shim in my post. Did the metal filled epoxy you used work ok. I have a small model Lathe that needs the same.

@@allthegearnoidea6752 - Yes, it worked extremely well. Actually, I think I ended up using JB Weld in the end as I couldn't find a real metal loaded epoxy with a slow cure at a reasonable price. I did try metal loaded epoxy putty, but it cured far too quickly. I have never tried dismantling it, but one side of the joint was waxed, so it *should* come apart OK. I used the same method to prepare the beds for the linear rails on my CNC (have a look under 'metalwork -> Desktop CNC' on my website for some photos of the process if you are interested)

So there are two of us then! 😁 Thanks very much 👍

Thank you!

Thank you very much indeed for the kind words. 🙂

Thanks for watching, and thanks for the very nice feedback!

Hi - You would need to choose something that was intended for high temperature use in a fairly aggressive environment. Pure nickel or chrome won't be suitable, it has to be an alloy of some sort to get the necessary properties. Hastelloy X is 47% Ni, 22% Cr, 18% Fe, 9% Mo, 1.5% Co & 0.6% W.... So not a simple material. Most suitable materials will be nickel alloys.