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You are welcome. 😀

Glad i could help. Thanks for the comment! 😎

You are welcome. So much they could do with this, but it has always been a simple tool. Thanks for the comment.

You are welcome. 😀

I use led free because I have my children in my lab all the time, and I do not want to expose them. Cheep is good for learning and TBH, mine is still going after years of use.

You are welcome 😊

You are welcome!

Awesome 👌 thanks

Thanks

Thank you 😊

Happy to help

@@ScottCard can you tell me how to add test points because I don't find in protues 8.9

Would be good, but for speed and ease.

Well, it is true you get what you pay for but... the tool you have is better than none at all. If you need somewhere to start or you are under financial pressure, this is great.

You are very welcome

The Rigol units would fit the bill. A 5 or 5.5 digital is likely more than enough for this work. Keep an eye open on the used market as well. Just be sure that you get something that can be calibrated. Thanks for the question, and I hope this helps.

@@ScottCard can you give me a link to this multimeter benchtop thanks mark

You ate very welcome.

Welcome. I'm glad I could help.

I am not sure what you mean. You can add footprints to schematic parts.

You are welcome. Thanks for the comment 👍

Thanks! Appreciate the feed back ;)

Be sure to select the part first. This should enable the package tool button.

Glad it was helpful!

It does take a little getting used to. Be sure that you are in the Master sheet, but you can not stretch or resize it. Instead you need to make a new title block for each size. Not ideal but it works.

That is odd. Not sure why it is not in the list of options. Sorry.

About 375C.

@@ScottCard I'm having an issue where the paste is just drying instead of melting. I have tried lower and higher heats. It's not expired, but I'm guessing it's bad somehow. Any brand suggestions? Thoughts on the low temp bismuth stuff? Thanks!

@emf9 Well, it's normal for the flux to evaporate, but just keep the heat on it for a little longer. You should check the data sheet for the solder to be sure, but maybe 400C is required. I use MG Chemicals and Cipquick brands. Hope this helps.

@@ScottCard thanks!

Definitely need to be mindful not to get too much solder, but it has not been a problem for me yet. The surface tension tends to make it pool on each terminal. Thanks for the comment.

@@ScottCard thanks for the info. I'm just learning to hot air and was worrying about that. Particularly since you can't see it

You will get the feel for it. A little too much is not a problem. The biggest trick is to keep the air speed low so you do not blow the parts off the PCB. 😉

@@ScottCard uh..... Nope.... Never done that.... 🤦.... That was actually attempt one. Had some diodes take flight. Any suggestions for little solder balls that just wind up in the middle of nowhere? Clean up with isopropyl? Or?

@@emf9 I use alcohol and an old toothbrush to clean the board. This also removes any extra flux.the alcohol evaporates quickly and is easy to clean up.

You are most welcome. Thanks

I started with the resistor package and modified it. I may make a video on this topic 🤔. Thanks for the comment 👍

It worked OK for me. I will look at the datasheet again. 😊

If the input voltage is high enough, this would be able to go up to about 36 volts (max 40 for the lm317). Remember that the higher the voltage drop over the regulator, the more heat will need to be disapated.

You are welcome. Thanks for your support.

Sorry, I do not know. Strictly a PC user.

You got it! Thanks for the comment. ;)

If you hold the control and the center mouse button, you can ORBIT the model. The other option is the orbit command. If you are looking to rotate the part however in the model, ROTATE3D or 3DROTATE is the trick. This may help - ruclips.net/video/8VHd8brKfHE/видео.html

Oh no. Well, if the element or temperature sensor is burned out, I don't think it is worth repairing. Unfortunately, you did not buy it from me so there is not much I can do to help you. You could message the company you bought it from to see if they can help you with a replacement. Sorry.

It should be the same. Make sure your screen resolution is not set too large or too small. Mine is also English *Canada.

Here is what I use. I modified the base to have ventilation under it and may upgrade in the future, but it is great for what I do on a daily basis. www.northshore-innovation.ca/product-page/1080p-digital-microscope-hdmi-vga-c-mount-remote-control-w-video-recorder

​@@ScottCard Link broken or not available anymore 😢

Oh. Well, the tile block is created from lines and text boxes in paper space. It is a matter of creating a 2D frame as you like it. You may find some helpful videos in my CAD class playlist. Hope it helps.

Perfect. Yes, here is an updated video to help anyone along. ruclips.net/video/WkWlLbzJSOo/видео.html

😊 thanks!

You are welcome 😊. Thanks for the comment.

You can use other blank PCB or acryllic to make spacers. Then tape it down on one side to create a hinge.

I'm glad to help.

That sounds like a great idea. Have just the project for that.

Will do. Thanks for the suggestion 😊

Thanks for the comment 👍 glad it helped.

Nice, thanks for the comments 😀

Thanks for the comment. Yes, I have another scope that is a little better. Maybe I will do a side-by-side comparison video to see how much better it is. ;) I have a video lens but I was not hugely impressed with the results.

Yea, here is what I upgraded to a few years ago (and now sell on my website). More expensive but it has much better refresh rate and you don't get as much motion blur! www.northshore-innovation.ca/product-page/1080p-digital-microscope-hdmi-vga-c-mount-remote-control-w-video-recorder

Being able to run busses would be so cool. The closes thing I can fins is differential pairs mode, but that will not do the trick. I am afraid we are stuck running the traces manually, then doing the trace length matching. You can always put in a suggestion with lab center. support.labcenter.com/forums/