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Complete legends!

Thanks Adam! More soon

I did the bottom of both a pillars. You can buy those repair panels and they are thicker steel as you would expect. So easier welding ;)

Or maybe overfilled lubricant ?

I'd say it's very unlikely, is the clutch standard? If so you should probably upgrade if you have a turbo!

@@could_try_harder I have original turbo, my car is 1.6 GTD from '84. I installed oem Sachs clutch set and i can't figured out what is the problem.

@@yusufunlu3530 some people try to fill the gear ox through the inspection hole on top. That could cause clutch slip 😉

@@could_try_harder Do you mean speedometer wire hole ?

Hello Sam thanks for watching and commenting. The car came with BBS RA alloys (14 inch diameter). They were marked up as BMW. So probably from an E30 3 series. Hope that helps you out

Thanks that means a lot

Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I bought panels from www.justkampers.co.uk www.alanhschofield.com and www.heritagepartscentre.com i also got the funky green front panel from custom and commercial

Thanks!

It's more than we've attempted before so i appreciate the good wishes!! 🙏

Hi thanks for the comment. In this case it was from heritage vw. A klokkenholm panel. It fitted really well.

If the actual oil pressure is low, then you most likely have a problem with the oil pump or the pickup tube. If the actual oil pressure is good, then you have a faulty oil pressure sensor and it will need to be replaced

thank you, i will try

Oil and the paint process don't mix. This wasn't a "restore to factory" project as you can see from the colour choice. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your take on the process. It sounds like you have some experience too.

You can see ours is decent in the video. Oil bypass operates at around 6 bar I understand.

I hear you but the drain point in the oil tank means that's not really an issue. Also you never get all the oil out anyway given that the coolers are at the front. Thanks for the comment!

Danke fürs Zuschauen

thanks for the comment.

It's actually really well put together. Nothing like the Peugeot's of the 80s with their selection box plastic trim!!

I WISH that were the case!! They carry more heft than a deer though. Complete write off for sure!!!

Friend of mine lived in Norway. You have to deal with Moose there (and he’s managed to survive hitting one! That would have done the job. But deer is probably the most likely culprit.

I also reckon a deer, Simon moose are huge that's scary 😂, @tomcallaghan4664 kangaroos must make a right mess. We we where saying at least captur hasn't got those firing caps which push the bonnet up, they can be a nightmare to fix then. This one looks pretty straightforward, so fingers crossed.

How do you mean? Width or height?

@@could_try_harder both please.

287 cm wide X 204 cm high. That's the actual ramp dimensions. I have more space than that of course.

Hi Terry sorry I've no idea what you could expect to pay Canada. But i reckon on £1500 to £2000 in the UK. Depending on the state of your hood, frame and material options

@@could_try_harder thanks that’s all I wanted a gauge assuming 8-12 hrs of work,

It’s so hard to gauge as to what would be needed until it’s stripped down. I’ve done these cars where they just only need a top. Others there’s rot on the top frame header. So new metal has to be welded in. Rotten rear window frames. Worse is usually where an old top is left in it holds the wet and rusts the frame. Failure to maintain or replace when it needs to be because it’s a big ticket item is a false economy as at least some point the job will need to be done properly and will cost even more , worse when it’s a new owner left with the bill on top of buying the car. It’s worth watching the strip down video if you haven’t already.

Thanks Derek

Thanks Terry. It goes to show how easy basic maintenance really is. :)

I liked the little smile when he nearly fell over 😂😂. Definitely a handy thing to have if your messing with a few motors 👍

We have stance plus fitted to the car. The ride is lovely. There's a video on them in the playlist so check it out!!

😂😂😂 of course I can laugh about it now.....

Thank you! Cheers!

Carl provided all the materials so I don't know the exact dimensions, but looking the video it looks to be about 3" wide and about 1/4" thick

Thanks for the kind comments. My welding is mostly self taught and advice from friends who are very skilled. Therefore I'd say I'm ok. I had a go at Tig welding back last year and. Really enjoyed the experience, so that's something I'd like to do more of. There's no engine swap on the way for this one. I've sunk too much time and money into replacing the original ancillaries!

Lol good spot! 1. You are correct B. I'm not changing it now In conclusion, thanks for the kind comments.

No worries thanks a lot for sharing video nonetheless 👍🏻

You did! At least the engine hasn't had to come out

Been there, done that!

@@could_try_harder vr6?

@@simbob321 got one for sale? Lol

www.stanceduk.com there you go.

You are not alone mate!

Won't rust if you install everything properly.

I didn't feel this was a diy job. That why I got Carl in as an expert. You can see in the video that he knows the job inside out. Check out the strip down video to see the state of the roof when we started :o

​​​@@could_try_hardernot thinking else just saying

I was actually undoing the nut. Not the head of the camber bolt. It was just that rusty. I suspect.a new bolt would have been required at any rate as it was quite pitted. Thanks for the comment and watching!

Hi Stephen, as you can see from the video it's Carl that does the hoods. His details are in the. Description so you can get a hold of him for a quote. All the best. Neil

I did ask!

Hey! I like old wobbly. It's the long bit holder thats bent. Drill is perfect..

The cost is always going to vary dependant on the options taken up as well as the state of the existing hood, frame and rear window aperture. Have a look at the link in the description and get a quote from carl

@@could_try_harder yeah totally understand I was curious as to how much to expect as there are so many different options and fitters. Cheers. When's part 2 coming?

@@LeapOfFaith121 I'm waiting for Carl to get another free slot. I may well do the clutch and release bearing in the meantime while we're waiting. 👍🏻 thanks again for the comments

​@@LeapOfFaith121 part 2 is up in case you were still waiting

Thanks for the heads up.

The cars back so it's coming soon

@@could_try_harder awesome can't wait. Thank you 😊

@@LeapOfFaith121 Carl is here right now! But I dont think we'll get it all done today....still soon soon I promise

​@@could_try_harder did you ever upload part 2?

Yes! It was mislabelled as part 3 finale but I've fixed that now. Cheers

Not really...

@@could_try_harder Mine has play.. should i tighten the dog nut?

Hi Chris, the original dormobile pop top on Berty was affixed to the metal roof with self drilling screws. These were easy to round out. I ended up undoing the bracket from the cap itself. Lifting and supporting the cap on blue roll rolls and the. Working on where the brackets are attached to the roof. It's in part 1 of the video. I made reinforcing plates for the inside of the cap. Thanks again for the kind comments and good luck!

Thank you! Cheers!

Your wish is my command! It was a touch wobbly eh?