Видео

Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed the video and the pop up! The flat batteries I am using are 46mm by 24mm and .4mm thick. They are 3V and 35mAh (CR2016 cells are typically 3V and ~90mAh, as you likely know). They are about $6 USD apiece. I generally use CR2016 or CR2032 cells or a small adjustable power supply (Revely Microsystems Volt Works VW1 - no longer made, unfortunately) for prototyping and, just switch to the flat battery for the final piece. The same manufacturer also makes flat rechargeable LiPo cells. I have been thinking about trying those for these sorts of paper electronics to increase durability and reduce waste. Those are about twice as expensive.

That is the “cold roll applicator” (and laminator) I talk about briefly at about 0:31. This one is an old Xyron 900 machine. It puts an even film of adhesive on one side of that piece of the backing card, allowing me to stick the two inner panels to it in the section you reference. If you were doing something similar, you could also use a spray adhesive, dry transfer adhesive, glue stick, etc. The cold roll applicator just makes it a little easier in some situations.

That sounds really cool!

Clever!

Kind of. You can make a custom alpha stamp from a depth map, then apply it to a high enough resolution mesh object in Nomad Sculpt. Of course, you will get a model cut off flat on the back side. There some folks with more expertise who might have might have better suggestions, like @ProcreateFX here or on the Nomad Sculpt forum. I think there are some people playing with using stuff like Stable Diffusion in a way that might yield models from depth maps but, I haven’t done anything with that.

Interesting idea! Have you done that? I would worry that the air from the heat gun would scatter the powder. I would like to try putting it in an oven after lasering. It takes 10 minutes at 400ºF to cure fully.

Use the heat gun on a lower setting so it doesn't blow the powder. You may need to go over a few more times to raise thenheat up since the heat is lower, but it works great. Then jist do a quick sanding with 120 or 220 grit to get off the top layer of powder that you were not able to scrape off.

Thanks! I'll give it a try when I get a chance.

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. There was definitely a lot to think through.

Nope. I don't think you can even buy these anymore.

Right! The fleur-de-lis was commonly used to represent religious saints in France. New Orleans was originally settled by the French. So a fleur-de-lis was an obvious choice for their football team. Its association with scouts dates back to the late 1800s when it was used to designate soldiers who qualified as reconnaissance specialists (“scouts”).

Thank you for sharing the images of your project. I do see what you are talking about. Using the RGB node to compress the range of the output image (as in my last reply) should get you what you are describing for the depth map. You can do something similar in Photoshop by adjusting the levels or curves (with either the Blender or Nomad Sculpt output). Looking at the 3DMasterKit documentation, you might also want to experiment with the “depth map factor” (described here: triaxes.com/docs/3dmk10/3DMasterKit-en/27Depthmapofthelayer.html ). I haven’t used 3DMasterKit at all but, my expectation is that setting the depth map factor below 1 would help with the issue you are having.

Hello again! I have done a fair amount of stereo photography. So, I do have red-blue glasses and other viewers around if you want to share an image. Presumably, you already know about Blender’s built-in stereoscopic output (anaglyph, stereo pairs, etc.) and, those aren’t suitable for your lenticular prints ( docs.blender.org/manual/en/2.80/render/output/multiview/usage.html ). For the lenticular prints I played with, I started with stereo pairs and, interleaved vertical strips from them that matched the lens sheet. That was quite some time ago. I imagine the tools are completely different now. If you can’t get the flatness you want out of the gamma, you might try some of the other adjustment nodes in the “color” submenu. You could, for example, use an RGB Curves node between the Gamma and the Viewer nodes (connecting the inputs and outputs named Image) or, replacing the Gamma node entirely. Then, adjust the curve to completely flatten off the highlights and/or dark values (e.g., move the point in the upper right corner straight down the right wall to make a very shallow ramp - the flatter it is, the less range the grayscale image will have). What other software are you using between the depth map and the final print? Everything I have worked with that takes a depth map for input has had some way to adjust how the values are translated into depth in the final output.

Greetings! These knots are around 150-200k polygons but, Nomad Sculpt can handle objects or scenes with at least 10 million polygons. Performance depends in part on your hardware and, I haven’t seen your model but, I would expect it to be okay without retopologizing. Note that you can also create depth maps in Blender. I cover that in my video previous to this one. Here is a direct link to the timecode: ruclips.net/video/vwuBbdCD0L0/видео.html

@@EvermoreStudio thank you Andrew. I will look at your video on how to make the depth map in Blender this weekend. And thank you for letting me know about your thoughts about nomad sculpt and it’s ability to handle my sculpt and it’s polygon count. In your link to the video, would I be able to make a depth map from a raw sculpt in Blender? Meaning, I wouldn’t need to retopologiz and I wouldn’t need to first render it before starting the depth map process in Blender (sorry if that is a dumb question, but I’m new)? Also, can Nomad Sculpt be used in any fashion with a PC? I don’t have a iPad (just and iPhone 11 Pro) and I am worried that the smaller screen (5.8”) might be a frustration. Perhaps if I can sculpt and see my progress on a PC it would be easier. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I already feel empowered!

@@SaruPrasad You shouldn’t have to retopologize or do a full render to generate a depth map in blender. You may have to adjust some parameters to get a good depth map with your specific model. I think these are mostly shown in the video segment. Nomad Sculpt currently runs on iOS and Android. I know some people are sculpting with it on their phones. I am using a 10.9” iPad. The developer is considering making a Windows version but, it is not clear when that might happen. Nomad Sculpt seems to run ok even on older generation hardware. Depending on your financial situation, you might be able to find an inexpensive used iPad somewhere. Importing an existing model (e.g., created in Blender or, your preferred PC sculpting app) and, generating a depth map might be less difficult than trying to sculpt on a small screen. I’m glad I can help! I hope you are able to get what you need. I would love to see what you make, if you end up sharing it anywhere.

Hello again! I am not sure why your replies aren’t showing up in the comments but, I did receive them. You said you were able to get depth maps both with Blender and with the trial version of Nomad Sculpt. You were asking about controlling/compressing the depth of field. If you already have this set up like my other tutorial for Blender, you can adjust the Gamma node to change the amount of contrast between the closest and farthest points in the depth map. Lowering the gamma should adjust as you are describing, to have less distance between the parts nearest to and farthest from the viewer. You can likely also adjust this on your output image from either Blender or Nomad Sculpt in an image manipulation program (GIMP, Photoshop, etc.) to compress the dynamic range. Sometimes, there will also be an option in whatever software you are using to produce your final output that allows you to adjust that. The Stereogram generator I used in that video has a “Depth” parameter that lets you adjust how it translates in the output.

I'm glad you found it useful!

I am not sure what you are describing. Do you have a link to an image or something?

Thank you! These were a lot of fun to make. Some challenges for folding them, for sure. Glad you are still enjoying it. This year’s is on the way.

Yes. There is more detail on doing exactly that in the previous video. I have only done it with these knotwork models so far but, it should be similar for anything else.

Thank you! I should have mentioned that.

I have an old (mid-1990s) “swing away” style heat press from Geo Knight & Co. It is intended for dye sublimation transfers and, heat transfer vinyl on t-shirts and, (with a separate set of plates) mugs. It was quite expensive when it was new (~$1550 USD). You can get good new press for around a third to half that now. I also see various heat presses on Cralgslist and eBay for around $200 USD. You don’t need an unusual amount of pressure or heat for this. If I were trying to choose one now, I would look for one of a similar style that applies pressure directly down, with adjustable pressure and, able to work on items up to at least half an inch thick.

That is a "cam clamp." There is a link to that one on Amazon in the description.

Thank you!

Hi, Teddy! The washers aren’t magnetic. There are little 1/8” square magnets glued in to the piece facing the piece with the washers. The washer are in pockets on one piece and the magnets are in pockets on the facing piece. Both washers and magnets are sandwiched between the layers. I install the magnets around 2:18m in the video, before the washers. Let me know if you share pictures of your project!