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it will depend on your lens. there is no typical flange distance for this mod. i hope that's clear. if not, let me know.

@@JJLee I get it) but my lens seems completely the same🌚

@@stasgavrilovru i'll do my best to measure, i've dissabled that particular camera so i'll have to recreate it.

@@JJLee bless you!

sorry about not replying sooner. really don't have a video blogger game. the leak, in my case, is coming from a crudely cut out "lensboard". I used the dark slide of an Instax pack and cut the ring out with scissors. It's just not shape right. If I recut it I'm sure that wouldn't happen. But also the lens is old and the shutter leaves themselves may be letting some light in as well. But that has nothing to do with the barrel assembly I show in this video. Thanks for your question.

that's brilliant, that's totally doable!!!!

it does require getting INTO the shutter which I don't have a lot of success at doing...too many parts.

but you could use the flash sync!

@@JJLee I didn't have to take apart the gear structure, or use any of the electronics (I removed them all). I just filed down the cam a bit, then cut it off with a knife so it was lengthened around 3 mm. The timing cam that shuts off the motor is all mechanical.

it was kind of brutal. you can remove the barrel without much damage but then you really dismantle it. i should shoot a vid or stop motion of that.

I should do that. Um, f1.2 or 1.4 would be hard to build as the format is quite large. I would guess that a medium format would be $$$. But I could do a side by side comparison. I do have one working Instax Wide camera with the stock lens.

vinylsoup More possibilities with shooting in a 4x5 camera. You’re thinking in terms of speed... but once you hit medium format, 2.8 is fast.... I’ve got a f/2.5 lens on my 4x5 which is equivalent to 50mm f/0.7 in terms of bokeh. Any fast 35mm lens will vignette so much it wouldn’t be worth it

hey manic - the vid is really a trailer for the following blog post. i think this can get you started. sorry for responding so late...yikes theshuttergoesclick.blogspot.com/2018/05/how-i-put-my-instax-wide-300-camera-mod.html

That's correct. I have a post on the simplified electronics here: theshuttergoesclick.blogspot.com/2018/04/rewiring-instax-wide-300-instaxhack.html

I'm trying to find an alternate way to wire it so that it develops with one press, but the way he has it wired powers the motor only when the button is held down. Let go once the film is at the top.

@@thnikkamax that's exactly it. i had to keep it simple. the circuit board was a little too complex for me.

no you don't. but you have to create a lens barrel that will suit the focal length of any lens you use. that lens needs to have a shutter. above and beyond an aperture iris!

sorry about taking so long to reply - the lens has a front-focusing element, so the task is to set the lens away from the film plane so that the lens will be focused on infinity when set at infinity (if that makes any sense). once you've set the lens at the correct distance with filter rings and the right number of spacers (they can be paper or thin sheets of plastic) between the lensboard and the lens you should be able to focus at as the lens is designed. Depth of field would be a byproduct of aperture and the SET lens length (give or take the movement of the front focusing elements - hey, I'm not an optics engineer - and I've never really thought of it but focusing must have some sort of effect on depth of field even on a fixed prime lens like the one here. it should be negligible). I hope all this makes sense to you.

so to be clear. the barrel does NOT move. it has a front focusing element. there are ways to make a barrel move but i haven't yet tried to does options. for example a helicoid extension tube. not the cheapest way but maybe the best IF you have only whole lenses which can not focus unless the whole rig moves back and forth.

Hi Peter. The lens has a front element focus. So I just have to set it at infinity and then turn the front focus ring to make it work.

Hi Justin, To say the camera had electronics would be somewhat misleading. It is more electric than electronic as hardly chipboard is involved. All I have is a simple circuit with an on/off switch to the motor. When I press the shutter release the motor runs, driving the ejection sequence and the rollers. To watch the camera in action, visit the other video. Plus I do have a blog post about the simple circuit I used. theshuttergoesclick.blogspot.com/2018/04/how-i-wired-my-instax-wide-to-develop.html

Thank you for the info. So it looks like you just soldered the wires that were already there... This is a really intriguing project! I am thinking of buying a wide instant body to dissect (they're getting cheaper on Ebay), and using one of the old leaf shutter lenses I have.

just remember you want a front cell focusing leaf shutter...otherwise it will be fixed focus. another option is helicoid tubes, but I've never used one.

I just realized that my batch of vintage leaf shutters are all without front-focusing! So now I am not sure I want to take this on. Thanks for the info. though!

I have a similar older lens that has no front-cell focusing....It is "unit" focusing instead. You could consider a build that uses a "helicoid tube". So you would focus by turning the barrel instead of a bellows setup.

I sanded a cd jewel case or maybe a clear piece of acyrlic and then cut it to fit in a used Instax Wide cartridge. I would insert that cartidge into the camera.

focusing screen made with old instax film cartridge. see the blog posts here, theshuttergoesclick.blogspot.com/2018/06/cameramods-question-i-just-cant-sent-up.html

Hi do you have some fotos with that modification

could you take a look at this. instagram.com/p/BjJ_mhYlQGR/ the guy did retain the automatic stop after each film is ejected. Do you any idea. I asked the guy but he hasn't replied yet

It can be done. There's a series of triggers that have to tripped for the camera to start the ejection sequence. I considered doing the wiring that way but I gutted the camera too quickly and couldn't reverse engineer it far enough back. Here's what the rewiring job needs to do: -make the camera know it is on -it must detect the lens barrel is out and the lens detector is open (there are sensors for both these in the lens barrel and the shutter housing) -the camera must believe the camera has fired the shutter If you can trick out the camera to believe all these things have happened then it will begin the controlled ejection and development process. I think it is doable. But I haven't done it. There are advantages to it. You can keep track of exposures. I've wasted two pieces of film because of losing count. BUT I've never wrong ejected two pieces of film. I like the dumb circuit I built, and, to be honest, the simpler circuit would work if you intended to turn the camera into a back for other medium or large format setups. Sorry I can't help you more. But thanks for asking. It's nice to know people are up to the same shenanigans as me.

I'm still working through all the light leaks. But I have good infinity focus now. Good luck on your project and thanks for letting me know the post was helpful.