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This fixed my issue for my 2018 Tahoe with ~68k miles on it. Thank you!

I like your pumpkin cutting tool

Thanks, man. I had that problem. Nobody I've talked to said to check the fuses. But pushing them in worked for me, too. I appreciate you sharing and saving me a lot of money. Thanks again. Wow.

This guy is a legend 💪😎

👍🏻 looks like a nice flaring tool to me

👍🏻 thanks for sharing

Thank you man you are good person ❤

Ахахахах

I have a2018 tahoe with push to start. I thought I couldn't start my truck thinking it was because of my afm disabler so I took it out. Then I thought it wouldn't start because of my remote batteries so I changed them both. Then when it wouldn't start I changed from one key fob to another and now after seeing this video I said I'll check before I take the starter out and surely enough the fuses were kinda loose and not fully seated in there spots. I didn't see the number/spot for starter relay because I think that is under the hood but hopefully that is the reason I was having trouble starting my truck at random times. This has been going on for a few months and I believe if it was the starter it would have finally died by now and not restart after handful of attempts. I'll update my comment if starter ends up being the culprit or something else. Thanks for the video. I will see if my dad has that issue with his fuses. He recently changed out his starter.

Any more videos on this machine? Just bought one in the uk. Looking to retrofit but interested to see your journey with the machine

This fixed my wife’s 18 tahoe

New sub! Thank you! Worked the charm on our 2018 Tahoe. Bizarre. I really didn't feel any loose but never the less it is working now.

What capacitors did you use?

Did you get a engine check light?

I had some similar issues with my chester 626 mill. I couldnt use the end plate so had to drill and modify etc my end plate. Made a few bushings and spacers etc but I managed to get it fitted ok. The plastic lock nut I will replace with a stainless one eventually. One issue I did have was shiming the brass gear correctly. But if its noisy you will need more shims adding. Cheers good video.

Never seen a better lapping job in my life. Mothers and a rag.

Thank you so much you just saved me hundreds i jist got my 18 tahoe and was in shocked it wouldnt start with only 66k miles on it

Saved me today. 2016 burb wouldnt start and i had a tow truck coming. Started watching youtube videos for any ideas and this worked immediately. Canceled the tow and went home. Thank you.

This video just saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you!!!!!

I just fitted the same one to a bench top mill. I had to do quite a bit of modifications, but I must say, the basic unit and design is very adaptable. For anybody who is a fitter turner machinist this is very basic adapting and modifying. The unit is perfect. I have come to learn that a lot of Chinese products recieve negative propoganda for various political agendas. I run a jobbing machine shop and for over 20 years I have used Chinese and Indian made machinery. Like every manufacturer, there is good and bad. In my modest opininion, Chinese technology is way ahead of the majority of the world, and envy for this fact creates a load of negative, unverified reviews! Simply because our South African Rand is such a weak currency, I have been forced to buy Chinese equipment because it is affordable. Surprise surprise! Some of it is excellent. My benchmark is to look for Chinese machines which have hand scraped ways and beds. Absolutely no variation between it and a Hatz lathe I also use. One "German" machine is made in China and rebranded. I had one and it got me going in business. I hate politics!!!

I bought this lathe in several pieces today. This is the first run having put it back together for a quick test. Not sounding great, quite a rattle to it. Have ordered Lathe oil and will look at the gears for the lead screw which are the main sources of the noises.

Thank you brother..had made an appointment in the dealership before seeing your video..thank you again

Thank you very much for posting this. You helped us a lot and the loose fuses were the problem.

Thanks for sharing Mike! I had to replace these same two belts on my Sheldon TMU12-36B when I got it 10 years ago. Now the upper two spindle belts are starting to go so will be replacing those soon too. Those are a bit more involved as you probably know. Cheers! Jeff P

I just got the same one and it was tripping my GFCI as well, I saw your video and found out it was a problem... I took it apart and the two phillips head bolts that are holding the circuit board on, are transfering trace power into the grounding circuit. I made a couple paper shims and installed between the circuit board and the mounting plate. Solved the problem, no more trips, hope this helps!

Holy Smokes............This Works...... " Money Saving Tip "....Cheers Mate ☕️

Had a weird issue with my 2015 Tahoe. I would get the single click and then nothing, but as soon as I would let off the key, it would crank and start normally. Battery voltage tested fine and the alternator was putting out 13.9-14.6V depending on system load. So the delayed start issues was baffling me. I was preparing to pull the starter. Found this video and went out to check my fuse panel. Sure enough, all fuses were not completely seated. Pushed them in and attempted to start the Tahoe again. Strong inmediate start! It appears to have fixed my delayed start issue!

Just got a new to me, Sheldon Lathe. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

Mine is doing the same thing. Also throwing codes. Flashing engine lite, traction control, and all the lights ,but no crank. It will go for weeks then out of the blue no crank. Also the misfire will go away then out of the blue come back. Not only that ,but my alternator is not working properly. Thanks for the video, I'm going the check my fuses before it goes to dealership.

I have had decent luck with vevor…. I don’t expect much when I buy their products, and am prepared for whatever… so far tho I’ve got stuff that works pretty good so far. No mods needed…

thanks for the video. mine were loose but it didn't fix my issue. :(

If you look at my profile picture you can see I love to build stuff out of what is laying around. I struggle with working with AC voltage. Like plumbing. Now I am building a rotary phase converter for a Hardinge lathe. Keeping in mind I want something to run a mill when I find one. I plan to start with buying a 3 phase motor first. Want one that is 1700 rpms (quiet) 3-5 HP

I am retired and just bought a 3 phase lathe. As you know to do what we want a mill is also needed. I am watching videos on building a rotary phase converter so I do not have to buy one to lower my budget. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a few so I know what is involved.

Had this happen (no crank/start, one click only) on my 2019 suburban Turned out it was because I was on a hill (just a slight incline) and it triggered a safety of some sort when i parked. Had to force it into neutral (it was stuck), roll back a couple inches, park again, then it started. Figured I'd share in case it helps someone. I'd parked on steeper hills daily, we live on a mountain, yet the slight incline at a Subway parking lot triggered it. Maybe I slammed it into park and took my foot off the break too fast, I'll never know.

Thanks Mike. I just got the same one. Very helpful.

Couple comments: First the the loose bearing race bothered me so I made an extending bushing just long enough to reach beyond the edge of the 20mm lobe on the leadscrew. This way the spacers push against the the race and lock it in. Second, I was able to fix the jam-nut problem by using a normal sized nut and turning half of it down. So half of it fit inside the handle. Hope this helps. PS: I am also a Sheldon Owner (EXL). Best Regards Bob

Thanks Mike. Mine did same thing. Just stopped out of blue Fuses all snug but pushed on them any way. Battery was REALLY hot burned my sons finger. Disconnected battery while we searched for problem. Meter showed battery was good. After 15 min, checking fuses and battery. Started right up.

On the awesome scribing accessory was it shop made or can you find that style of scribing accessory online. Great video Sir. Have done more research on this tool and its completely amazing how universal they are.

Get a DPS MY-PS Phase Shifter

I am a professional chauffeur, regularly pushing my 2019 Suburban beyond the 265,000-mile mark. Yesterday, after a trip to Ithaca, NY, my car refused to start upon returning home to Maryland. Panic set in until I stumbled upon this review. The troubleshooting tips provided here not only saved me from a potential towing nightmare but also got my Suburban running smoothly again. As a chauffeur, time is of the essence, and this review was a game-changer. Thank you for the invaluable help!

Number 36 fuse!!! It worked on my 2017 Tahoe LT. thank you!!!

That’s not gonna get any the oil inside the stone out

If that drive is popping your GFCI, it has a short to ground somewhere. Mostly likely, a hot wire has abraded insulation that's passing some current to the ground housing. Since the housing is connected to the mill, disconnecting the ground wire won't block the leak. Easiest thing to do is measure the resistance from the hot blade in the plug to the housing. I'm guessing that will show something in the 5-20kΩ range.

I have the same .007" drop in the ways up near the headstock. However, I cleaned them up, aligned the axis on my headstock and ways, and just know that the drop is different depending on where I'm cutting. Mine's a 1948, older than yours, and probably more hours and wear, and it still cuts great! Clean up the burrs on the ways, make sure your chuck jaws are aligned, maybe get a 5MT ER40 collet holder, and you can still make great cuts on it. If you give up, let me know and I'll buy that lathe from you!

There's a lot of heavy sighing going on in there! Just take it all apart, clean it all. You can replace the shafts and the needle bearings as well as the bronze bearings/bushes, and you'll be back to stock! I did the same on my Sheldon QCGB, and it was way less time and effort than trying to recover old clapped out parts.

Thanks for finally getting to the point this is the worst video ever get to the point way faster you’re not helping anyone I’ve been standing here for 10 minutes watching you talk about nothing

I’m sitting w a dead Tahoe, good vid but I’d re film this info and please get to the point.

Bro u need to get to the point a little faster ur off in left field. For half the video no one wants to hear nonsense

I get that you need a 220 volt single phase power feed in, I am just confused on the components and in what order they should be in. I am looking at making my own 3ph rotary phase converter using 10 to 20hp three phase motor. More than likely the largest 3ph motor I will be using on equipment would be 10ph on either a bandsaw or possibly a thickness planer. I wouldn't be using more than one piece of equipment at a time most likely, but there is the potential after the shop is set up that someone may want to come and do some work in it and may need to fire up another piece of equipment. In most cases the highest motors used at once would be a 7.5 hp radial arm saw & a 10hp band saw or thickness planer. I'm trying to get the shop set up to feed 3ph to a jointer, table saw, bandsaw, radial arm saw, and thickness planer and if I can find them a tennonor and mortisor. What are your thoughts.

Curious how much did you pay for it? Thanks