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I really need help with hand painting, especially mottling and splinter camos. I would also appreciate any recommendations to help me improve on my modeling capabilities and stretching my comfort zone. much appreicated.

Hand paint is great job

Fantastic use of the hairy stick

nicely done!

You are way too hard on yourself. This is a beautiful model. A true work of art. I am new to scale modeling and thanks to people like you, I have learned a lot already.

Great job mate 👍.

I won’t argue, the model looks great. A friend modeler who passed away too early told me to use a hard toothbrush and flick the paint on the model. I don’t know if he was joking but his model of Helmut Wick’s bf109E was amazing if he used that technique. Alternatively one could use a small hard sponge with irregular shapes end and dab it onto the fuselage.

Hands air gun 😂😂 omg reta..😂

what the stencil you used

excellent job, love it

Awesome result. Subscribed..

Very awesome

Going to use this awesome technique and apply it to a 40k mini. Really amazing job here.

P. S why don't you tell beginner's to sand flat the instrument panel before adding Decals 😌 so much easier don't have to mess with any solutions and just as good a finish

Supposed to be a beginner's guide 🤔 why make it hard and drop them in it with an airbrush? 😌

Looks great. You knew when to stop on the wash and weathering. Sometimes I don't... Good job!

If you don't think it qualifies as a full diorama, perhaps call it a 'vignette'!

Fine!

I just watched this 3 part build series . Very well done , very well presented . It was informative and inspiring. Please do more videos , your a good odeler and presenter . Thank you

nice build.

and where do I get that work mate please

Wow, a real "expert" at work. The interior of Major Wick's aircraft Bf 109 E-4 was painted in RLM 66 and the camouflage pattern consisted of RLM 74 and RLM 75 upper surfaces, with RLM 76 on the fuselage sides and undersides. The spots werte applied by brush in probably either RLM 71 or RLM 02. It's an ineradicable legerd that all Bf 109 E's during the so called Battle of Britain were finished in RLM 71/RLM 02 on the uppersides. Oh, by the way, Major Wick flew this aircraft, Werknummer (W.Nr.) 5344, since spring 1940 till his death in November 1940. But I suppose you know it all better...

Excelente! Parabéns amigo🏆🌟👏👏👏

Really enjoyed your video! Was considering of doing this eduard kit and your work inspired me to go for it. Thanks!

I think that's one beautiful,"Emil!" I am currently amassing a number of 1/32 kits. ME163 by Meng, bf109k-4 by Trumpeter, in 1/24, as well! FW190d-9, "Gallands' Circus," by Hasegawa, and an A8 too

Brilliant job! I was thinking that I could paint the very fine brush strokes and then smudge them with a larger brush or (makeup?) sponge afterward to blend them. Do you think that would work also? Not so much for this particular paint job, but other types of mottling.

I'm back in the hobby after years. I'm looking for advise on which brush to use. I tried 00 short hair and Tamiya's three brush sets but I struggle to do clean job with them. What brushes do you use for cockpits?

Don't forget it is never the actual plane but a piece of plastic that resembles it's shape , therefore superdetail(ers) is just a made up reality in your head , so like you say you can use your own creativity that is not reality.

Impressive painting, excellent stuff!.. Loved the Benny Hill reference..

Nice build!!! Concerning the Tamiya decals I'm really surprised how few experienced modelers know how to use them correctly. I'm not that experienced myself as a modeler, however, I started with some Tamiya builds after hearing what awesome kits they make. I was then hit by the surprise of people saying how bad the decals are. It just didn't sound right to me so I decided to really look into it. I was glad to find some information on these decals that does not seem to be common knowledge. First they are of an entirely different make up so, all of the chemicals you may be use to like Micro Set and Micro Sol will actually destroy them. If you do want to use something like that you need to use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer. But these chemicals are not really needed. The true trick to Tamiya decals is the use of very hot water. Most decals do not require hot water, but Tamiya decals have glue that is activated by hot water. If the water is not steaming, then you will just keep pushing the decals around all day and it will never stick. Hold a Tamiya decal is steaming water for 30 seconds, place it where you want it, push out any extra air and let it try. Don't move it around a bunch or the glue will just re-dry while you are moving it. For Tamiya decals it's all in the heat.

Uhuh, i used AK paint once. And never again. It cloged my airbruish so much that i spend a week cleaning it and the paint cracked on the model surface which was catastrophic because i painted a Tiger tank interior. I still wonder how i saved this model.

Terrific- I must learn how to weather

what brand of rivet tools are you using. Thinking of buying some but not sure what brand to pick up

Nice ,👍

Excellent..

Hadn't seen that aircraft before, really nice build, excellent!! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience

Looks like a nice kit. Good job on it. Too bad there is no pilot figure. Planes look better populated. Hahaha. Bill

1/72 scale can be a really difficult challenge when it comes to subtlety. I found that applying the same techniques with even thinner washes and airbrushed coats on a 1/48 scale kit gave me a ton more latitude for detail and control. I then found that scaling back down to 1/72 a lot easier in visualizing scale on that level, tricking the eye with more subtle techniques. Now I'm geeking out in 1/32 and 1/24 with photo-etch and concerned over shelf space.. Great work! Take your time. Often it's not the final destination that matters, but the journey there and what you've learned along the way.

Zelensky will take it!

Cuánto mide de largo?

Omfg i love it its so beatiful❤. Where did you buy this kit beacuse Every where i look its sold out but your model its so good i could Mary with it

"I think it doesn't look too bad" is a massive understatement. I think the finished article - and especially the weathering - looks excellent. I would kill to be this good. Thanks for posting these videos

G'day Vilka, Great pink paint job! Many years ago I served in the RAAF and cutting a long story short; I'm now retired and for the past 15 years I've been a military aviation historian. I fully understand why you, and many others, don't particularly like the RAF wartime camo colour schemes. On the wider topic of aircraft camouflage, I've read so many stories from WW2 veteran pilots, and interviewed many myself, plus and Air Force admin types who seriously questioned the true value of camo schemes in general. Unlike the 'dazzle' camo applied to large warships in WW1 & 2, aircraft don't stay in ideal spotting locations for long enough for camo to have any real results in 'hiding' the aircraft from enemy eyes. Although, breaking up the outline of the aircraft, apparently, had some small benefit. I must mention here that literally hundreds of potential camo schemes were experimented with by most of the Allies and the positive results were few and far between. All pink and all light blue, as far as I can tell, were two exceptions to the rule. Even these suffered, like all camo schemes, when they added the necessary roundels, aircraft squadron numbers and, in some, 'invasion', 'D-day’ or ‘friendly' stripes. Both the RAF tropical and normal camo schemes were designed to work when enemy aircraft were viewing the aircraft from above. For land based viewers, the blues, greys, off-whites etc. of the underside paint schemes were a little more successful. The topside paint jobs were intended to blend in with the aircraft as it flew over the 'average' landscape of English farmland. As soon as the aircraft crossed over water that downward looking camo was rendered useless. The paint job of the first flying Spitfire prototype was a light blue and worked well on a bright sunny day, which one has to say is not a consistently common situation in most of Britain and Europe. During WW2 the RAAF simply copied RAF colour schemes which, over average Australian terrain made the aircraft stick out like sore thumbs. As uninteresting as it is to model modern aircraft with their various shades of light grey, it must be said that this scheme does work well for aircraft trying to be spotted at long distances. Interestingly, the USAAF began in WW2 with most of their aircraft appearing in bare metal with bright colours designating squadrons etc. and even prominent, colourful 'nose art'. Then, later in the war, almost all the USAAF converted to various hues of olive drab which changed again back to bare metal after they achieved air dominance over Europe and then Japan. Perhaps the most successful camo scheme was the all matt black for night fighters and Catalinas etc. I specialise in modelling WW2 aircraft so; I've got little choice but to stick with schemes that are historically accurate. Like you, I really enjoyed painting up my pink and blue exceptions. Cheers, all the best and thanks for this interesting video. Bill H.

Vallejo makes paint specifically for airbrushes.

Nice build. A bit of Spitfire trivia - the exhausts were made of an alloy that didn't rust.

Very nice! I think it's appropriate to call a small diorama like this a vignette.

Would a PR Spitfire have guns?

Looks really cool!! I just bought this kit, totally using your videos as a reference! Thanks for sharing!!!!

Интересная техника, впервые вижу. Прикольно.

New subscriber here. I enjoyed watching this and your camouflage painting video. Great looking 109. Thanks for sharing this.