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Sounds like you're on the right track. If the motor was only used in fresh water, it shouldn't be any difficulty at all to pop off the leg and replace the impeller. The main difficulty is if the drive shaft is stuck in the head.

It runs in a little pipe in the bottom, just like Creative Inventions LMTN (did you watch that video?). Ultimately there's just a puddle of fuel in the bottom of the tank, and a drip system to sort of keep up with the burn. Nothing precise at all.

@@dansw0rkshop Thanks... If you want wild run like 5 loops of steel oil feed line around the outside and feed through that once it gets really burning.. you start to burn the oil vapor instead of liquid.. I thought thats how the burner your using worked but the way it looks like the flame come out the hole is deceiving does the curved top to the tank your using impact the burn? Im assuming the flames from the holes is because its the only source of air for it to burn..

Straight.

I think it would work with just one tank like you suggest. Yes, the two-tank boiler is still heating for us! I keep monitoring the molybdate and PH and everything's good, water's nice and clear, no rust whatsoever.

This was intended to provide an overflow if the bottom line got clogged. The oil would overflow in through the top line then, instead of running out all over the ground (or floor etc).

Yes, as I have time. One thing I plan to do is shorten the water-cooled inlet pipe, for a taller reduction zone. I may also switch to water cooled instead of oil cooled, and / or connect it to my hydronic heat system to capture the waste heat.

@@dansw0rkshop I generate tremendous amounts of waste oil from my business, which I currently run through a furnace to heat my shop. I would like to build a charcoal gasifier in order to use it to run a waste oil drip through it. Your design, is the only one I've seen with the cooling jacket, which I think would be necessary to handle the extraordinary heat generated by such a system. I like the idea of combining the charcoal and oil because just about any other system designed to crack only oil will always coke up and create a constant mess to deal with. Running the oil through the charcoal should reduce everything to ash which should be easy to safely clean up and dispose of. Should also generate a very rich gas mixture. I would likely use oil in my cooling jacket in order to have a consistent source of preheated oil to drip through the gasifier. Anyway, I appreciate your hard work, and especially like seeing how you create complex conical shapes, in metal, with simple shop equipment that I already have.

Link? I'm well aware of beckett style burners, I have several. They burn motor oil, yes. But not with a blue flame.

@@dansw0rkshop I didn't say Beckett style burners

Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks for stopping by!

Thanks for stopping by! No worries man, I can address all of your concerns. 1. I don't care how bulky they look, it's me looking at them 2. The light is good enough for me, and they don't hum like a flourescent 3. I do use LED retrofit tubes, just not in this case, 4. I haven't had to replace a single bulb yet, but when they blow, it's one at a time generally, and even if I changed them all at once it would still be cheaper than the flourescent tubes in my locale.

@@dansw0rkshop oh okay. Thanks for letting me know! I know that it’s not to everyone’s taste, personally I don’t like the look of it with all the bulbs sticking out, but you don’t mind it so that’s ok because it’s your fixture. I know they only go out one at a time but still when more than 1 have gone out it might add up the costs when you have to buy new bulbs

Yep, I did the exhaust gas return (EGR) strategy on my Lumina barrel gasifier. It was the only way to prevent melting the firebrick.

@@dansw0rkshop I am curious do you use all the exhaust gases? In the video I didn't see any pipe going back to the gasifier from the engine. And doesn't the engine create a vacuum that sucks the air into the inlet? That would make the air blower at the inlet unnecessary .

No plans at this point. It isn't sized for a vehicle.

Did you watch all of the videos? I show exactly where the water enters the intake at an elbow at the top. Then the droplets fall straight down into the hottest part of the fire, right where the incoming air contacts the charcoal.

1. Been through it all. I've melted firebrick. 2. My dual function gasifier is my outdoor boiler. The waste heat goes to making the water hot for domestic heating (water and space heating), with charcoal the side product.

Im talking about using bricks but cast your own refactory mater look up starlight ..you need a better refactory mix...

You can improve the effiency of the system dramatic ..yes your making domestic hot water but you still not effiently using waste heat from the charcol process to dry your wood.. or use the wood gas byproduct from charcoal process back into the gassifier as secound combustion. Even using a sand battery soak up heat for your domestic hot water.

@@772777777777777 I agree, and it would be trivial to do so, all I need is to add a water-to-water heat exchanger to connect my hydronic system to the gasifier, instead of the finned exchanger and blower you see on it.

Noted. I will look for a fire extinguisher rated for "flammable fires" then. BTW I was just playing around, this was an expired unit that needed emptied so I could use the container in a project.

I know, I've gotten gasifiers hot enough to melt firebrick. Those were not cheap found materials. Also, this design is using oil for cooling, not water. Oil can get up into 400-500F before it starts breaking down. Still not white hot, I guess. Thanks for stopping by.

@@dansw0rkshop Try using stainless steel, I'm going to try welding some dog dishes and kitchenware bowls with 308L16 rod. One guy bit the bullet and just machined his entire firecone-venturi from stainless LOL!

Dale is right it is backwards. It only gets cooled after it leaves the reactor for the cleaning. This cone type is called an Imbert and is for wood. You want the whole cone to get red hot and submerged in charcoal that forms on the whole bottom end and all around the cone to make pyrolysis. On the outside of the cone as well. Just like when you put a dry spaghetti noodle on the metal of a red hot stove burner. The metal has to get red hot.

That's a good point... but I don't think there is suction there. I think there is pressure, which is what made the pump leak profusely before I had it immersed. Also, would the pump suck air when installed in an engine? In that scenario, the shaft is above the oil level too.

You don't need to be convinced. Nobody does. This technology has been around for over a hundred years.

I agree. I'll get better at it. :D

1. It is downdraft. 2. Not sure what tubes you're referring to. There are no visible flames in this video, and there are a number of tubes here and there. What timestamp in the video? 3. Yes, I know. I left it the blower running because I thought it would make it easier. It didn't start any easier when I turned the blower off either. Bottom line, I had to flare it a while longer before "getting gas to the intake" -- that is to say, before the gas was rich enough to run the generator.

4. The charcoal was completely dry to start with. I'm probably dripping water too fast, but it does make nice flares and the generator engine picked up noticeably when I increased the drip.

@@dansw0rkshop I drip about a drop per second for my Polaris sportsman 400. That seems to be ideal.

When introducing a water drip to a charcoal gasifier, the charcoal steals an oxygen molecule and turns it into hydrogen for more power. One should realize about 75% of the power compared to gasoline.

@@drainkinginc2011 Interesting and it makes sense!

@@drainkinginc2011 That is exactly correct. Charcoal burns very hot, you get more heat than necessary so you can actually split the water into H2 and O (and the O combines with more carbon to make CO)

@@dansw0rkshop actually I believe the hot charcoal steals an oxygen molecule from the CO2 to make CO which is a combustible gas.

you create hydrogen AND cool the charcoal. (to keep everything from melting)

1. Yes, the woodgas needs some cooling before entering the engine. 2. You still need a throttle butterfly for throttle control, so I tend to leave the original carburetor in place for that purpose. On generators, this is necessary for frequency control at 60Hz. On a car, this connects to the accelerator pedal. 3. Then, the woodgas "carburetor" is simply a plumbing tee with another valve to control the air-fuel ratio (which can be quite finicky). I'll soon have another video up showing the generator setup.

If you are asking about the oil cooling part, this is something completely different. In this gasifier design, the oil cooling is to keep the hearth and air intake from melting. You can melt steel with charcoal. Easily. The oil cooler prevents that.

@@dansw0rkshop thank you.

Flaring isn't a permanent solution. Watch part 1 and 2 to realize that this gasifier is under development. It started out as nothing but shells of old water heaters. Another plan to collect surplus heat is to make a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger to replace the liquid-to-air HX and fan. Then the oil cooling can help heat my domestic hot water.

Thanks for stopping by!

I'm burning home made charcoal. It wasn't advertised as clean. Yes it is dirty, as is all wood that drew nutrients from the ground.

The clinkers are likely a result of minerals picked up by the trees from which the charcoal is made. It's basically unavoidable at the temps he's working with. The ash melts to slag and forms clinkers.

Adding steam or water vapors to the air intake can help break up the slag formation somewhat. WW2 charcoal downdraft gasifiers used steam from a water jacket piped to the air intake to keep the nozzle cooler, add hydrogen, and keep slag to a size small enough for the grate to sift out.

Ok ok! Thanks for the info. I truly appreciate the community chipping in here and helping me overcome my ignorance. ;)

Well, I would then pose a question: Would a class B work on a grease fire, and if so, why don't restaurants use them? Why bother with another class of fire extinguisher?

@@dansw0rkshop the reason Is a small liqid fire in grease could extinguish extingusihed with class b extinguishing powder but when you have gallons/of oil/ grease it is found that something like baking soda does not have enough cooling effect or it can not cool a fire wet chemical works by generating a soap in contact with hot grease that helps extinguish the fire plus it has water in it that helps cool the fire

actually baking soda does not really cool fire if you have gallons of grease I think an agent is ineffective if the grease cannot be adequately cooled of I think recent version of NFPA also state not to use co2 on grease fires

I think Here is a good video that will answer your question : ruclips.net/video/x_9easw0fzE/видео.html

Yep, that is a great idea. Now that I have a 3d printer this is on the bucket list.

@@dansw0rkshop Wow this is a 10 year old video. I didn't expect anyone to respond. I just subscribed.

Yep and I have another leg, from a 35hp Gale which I'm going to do eventually from my collection of lawn tractor engines. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks for stopping by!