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I find that the battery space allows for more thickness than a standard GL 2s battery. The battery brace on the v2 chassis allows for even additional flexibility because the height/tension can be adjusted by the screws on the brace. Currently, I use Gens Ace 2s 400mah battery (www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-2s-lipo-battery-60c-7.4v-400mah-gea4002s60jst/p1409127

@@sammybaka link doesnt work. Can u recc a similar one that i think will fit?

@@chenglo8999 Sorry it's picked up the extra right parenthesis. Try this www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-2s-lipo-battery-60c-7.4v-400mah-gea4002s60jst/p1409127 . Otherwise, look at GL Racing 2s 360mah or PN Racing 2s 380mah on sites like wolframrc.com .

I don't think we can buy the rear DWS upgrade with a wide setup, but you can get mdw100-07 to add to it.

In the mini-z product line up, the only one that can drift is ma-020/ma-030evo, but it's AWD drifting instead of rwd. This is the simplest. RWD drifting is more complicated and expensive. There's an upcoming third party product called MRD which is a RWD conversion kit for ma-020, but it's not available yet. To go further with RWD drifting, you can look into brands such as DriftArt, MA Racing, Atomic DRZ, etc.

Thank you. It feels quite different on the track. Less weight, especially at the top, means the car is much more nimble. Compared to a hard body, it accelerates and brakes faster, and can go around corners at a faster speed. It feels really good to drive. With a proper front bumper, front side collision is pretty manageable. However, lexan bodies don't provide any protection from side or rear hits.

@@sammybaka Thank you sir for sharing. Looking forward getting one to try it! Have a nice day ahead sir!

In the video description, please look for contact information for Sai Lai. Facebook (facebook.com/sai.lai.37625) or Whatsapp (+85291911193)

There are a soft and hard version of these tires. They are quite inexpensive but I don't recommend them. The performance of the carisma rally pin tires is much better.

​@@sammybakaOk thank you sooo much!!! 🙏

This esc expects a 2S lipo. The choice of connector is up to you and the batteries you buy. A common connector used for this scale is JST-PH (3 pin, 2mm pitch). This is what I use in all my cars. Many batteries come with jst-ph but I've also seen small lipo packs with one jst-xh lead. jst-xh is conventionally used as the balance port.

@@sammybaka thank you!!!! I was losing my mind trying to find out what the connector was called.

Thanks! Step down board: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806193082886.html

@@sammybaka Thank you for the link, now i can make mine brushless!

Awesome! Which esc are you planning to use?

@@sammybaka I'm going to use the one in the combo

Thanks for the tips. Could you help me how to find the $30 11000kv combo?

Thank you! Glad people are still looking for information about the GT24!

No I haven't tried the 12000kv motor. 2s with the 8000kv motor, even with the slowest gearing, is already too fast!

​@@sammybakaOk, thank you for the reply!!

That's no good. Are you able to get the problem addressed by the seller?

@@sammybaka they won't respond to my emails but i found the parts tree online and i stole a switch from my little brothers old car that did not work anymore so when the parts tree comes the car should be good as new

@@sammybaka also i need to learn how to solder because i want to put some of the colored leds on the back as brake and signal lights lol

Good luck! Those tiny wires and solder points can be quite challenging. Soldering is a super useful skill though so it's worth the efforts to practice.

@@sammybaka Ok, thank you!

Enjoy the trophy truck! If I must choose between oh32x02 vs mr-03, I would definitely go with the truck! It's much more interesting to build and run, and it can run in more places.

@@sammybaka Ok, thank you!

@@sammybaka do you have any recommendations for upgrades i should get (i already got the servo saver and aluminum alloy suspension) i am thinking about making a custom shell, getting the metal driveshaft a speaker for it (i bought the nitro hobbies one so idk if it comes with one i will have to wait for it to arrive to see), a led light bar and idk if there is anything else i should get or if i should get any of the stuff i just said so some recommendations would be very helpful.

@@26eckhat11 For the truck, I think the upgraded alloy shocks and dampers work really well. I think the gear differential is very functional too but I needed to do a lot of work to make it work reliably. Out of the box there was some gear mesh issues inside the diff. You can take a look at my full build video ruclips.net/video/6ns8wmGWbSA/видео.html

@@sammybaka ok thank you (by the way i have seen the build video quite a few times now lol)

It just means the criteria when the charger will stop charging. You can get it to stop at 4.18, 4.19, 4.2, 4.21, or 4.22v per cell. I set mine to 4.18v.

​@@sammybakahow do i know what to set it to?

@@hwelp A standard lipo battery does a max of 4.2v per cell, so 4.2v is the default setting.

@@sammybaka so I can leave it as is?

@@hwelp Keep at 4.2

Thanks!

Glad you were able to find some answers! Thanks for the support!

Yes it's programmable but I didn't try to play with the timing setting. Thanks for the tip and I will give it a try!

Based on amain prices: 98mm extension blocks ($8), bulkhead top cover ($10), bulkhead bottom cover ($10), and long alloy cvd (around $20). This adds up quite quickly so if you are looking for 98mm and/or wide setup, starting with the challenger is a good idea.

Thanks! Now I have a brushless system wired up, I guess I can experiment with other motors too.

I'm tempted to get it just to test it out, especially I have the rest of the truck wired up already for brushless. I couldn't find just the 1:5 gear box unfortunately, but it's still not too expensive to try.

I haven't put an ma-020 on an rcp track before so I'm not sure what tires would work well there. On RCP or carpet there will be a ton of traction and real chances of traction rolling; on that surface, I would go with harder compounds probably 30 or even 40 degree. If you are running on more slippery surfaces like at home, then you will want all the traction you can get, such as 20 degree radial.

Thanks! The buggy is more versatile and capable, while the trophy truck is more scaled and indoor friendly. If I had to pick one I would go with the buggy.

I mean if the rims of this Sambar Truck can be mounted onto the ordinary Mini-Z chassis (e.g. MA-020/ MR-03)? Thanks.

Unfortunately I could never remove the rims from the chassis. They don't use rwd or awd-style mounts though, so I don't consider them as reusable elsewhere, unfortunately.

@@sammybaka I see, thanks for reply. I will use other Mini Z ordinary rims instead.

I haven't tried but I heard it's possible. You will need to modify the top cover because of the motor sensor ports on the evo2 board.

The two links connecting the knuckles to the tie bar are in MB005.

Thanks. Yeah on high traction and high demand conditions, you need to glue the tires just like the larger scale cars. It's common to use CA glue. I read it's possible to use tire tape (double-sided tape) to help secure the tires, but not as well as using CA glue.

@@sammybaka Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!

The brand is GPM and I think this might be tough to find today. Originally I bought it at www.asiatees.com/display?id=25689

Yes you can. You will need to use the ics usb dongle to program the esc for brushed mode.

Thank you!

fhss itself is not a protocol. most modern protocols from companies like futaba, sanwa, flysky, etc use different proprietary protocols, but they are all built on top of the fhss modulation method.

RM pod will let you run 90mm wheelbase, so that part is good. You will need to get rims with narrower offset. The truck body is narrower than nsx.

Yes, and in fact the vast majority of PN2.5 builds I've seen are 98mm. You just need the right motor pod. If you are building from scratch, I would get the PN v5 lcg 98mm mount mount, plus the PN multi length damper set. This combo will work for an R8 body.

@@sammybaka I’m also thinking of upgrading my Kyosho MR03 chassis to PN2.5w chassis, will my MR-03 Route 246 MM Aluminum Motor Mount work? (Part#: KYOR246-1355 ) Since i already have these parts available? Basically just switching every parts i have from my MR03 over. Will this work?

Basically the front and backend of an MR-03 will fit fine onto the PN chassis. Your R246 motor pod will work.

Unfortunately, MR-03 doesn't have enough steering angle to become a rwd drift car. Check out ruclips.net/video/Ekp8V855FFU/видео.html where I tried and failed drifting one.

Kyosho has made the gyro line very confusing. Photos are down on this page, but it's useful for figuring out which gyro to get: rc.kyosho.com/en/gyro-matching

@@sammybaka well thanks but i tried but a few items are discontinue so I have to now search I don't mind doing on what I said in the message but thenew ver. 2.0 receiver $38 because I have gyro but like I said in ur video has the correct one when I look at the connector wire color so I found it but online has it for $79 down to $49 for the gyro that u have that will fit in mine also

I got these big bore shocks (MBW037) on nitrohobbies.com, but they are no longer available there. amainhobbies has them.

@@sammybaka thanks ❤️

When using a wall charger i don't think the cutoff setting is important. It's needed when using a 3+s lipo battery as input power to b6neo to protect that supplying lipo.

Thank you for your support!

I'm not familiar with DA3S so i'm not sure its range of track width. I assume there are ways to adjust the length of the suspension arms. What mini-z bodies are you trying to fit? They come in quite a range of width as well.

@sammybaka Subaru Sambar Kei Truck. Is the gld a good car? Is it good out of the box or do I need upgrades to make it drift good

@@rogerbahr9117 The kei truck is going to be challenging because it's very narrow (in mini-z terms, max of 0.5mm offset with narrow wheels front and rear with narrow front track width), plus its rear bed hangs pretty low. It's almost the most challenging Mini-Z body to fit. GLD is at this point an old design; it's good but really needs/benefits from some key option parts. Because of that, I'd consider it too expensive vs other options now.

@sammybaka is new option on chassis would you chose?

@@rogerbahr9117 I'm not familiar with the latest ones but it seems that a lot of people like the MA Racing MA24.

Yup. I didn't put the body post holes correctly so it was offset towards one end. The body ran awesome but the build wasn't the best for sure. Recently I built up the protoform p63 body and that came out nicely.

@@sammybaka i just decided to go with that body shell ,everything came out really nice but then i also made the mistake of putting holes in the wrong place lol! i should have done holes before painting! love all your content by the way bro!

Thanks! Yup my lesson learned here is also to trim and ream while the body is still clear. I'm going to have a build video for the second lexan body that will lead to better results!

Thank you. Currently i use skyrc b6neo.

I find the wltoys 5g fit better, and is much cheaper. It works just as well as the hitec in my opinion. I definitely recommend the wltoys more.