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Thanks Noah! Yeah, I think it just goes to show the 'real' time it takes to do restorations, where other restoration channels show supercut/sped up works at times rather. Also I'm doing it with mostly hand-work haha

Thanks Noah, not as good as if I had done a complete strip and repaint! Still happy with the end result with my limited skills and experience though :)

It depends really on the type of gum binder and how much carbon or conductive material that is mixed into the gum binder.

Yeeeeeeeees?

Sydney area :)

@@theboard I’m on the central coast, mate

@@Johadart Jealous of the shed space opportunities you have haha.

@@theboard I have no shed space.

@@Johadart Damn, thats a real shame!

The ones I got aren't in heavy use so I can't really say about regular durability but as they are dyesub, dyesub is pretty durable but subject to things like finger oil chemistry and realistically how much use each person actually does (and on what keys). I would expect there to be some shine but I wouldn't expect rapid rapid wearing to the point where you'd wear away the legends.

Sorry, I can't find anything about being able to change to orange, but I generally don't play around with lighting effects in custom modes or software drivers, perhaps ask on the mechanical keyboard subreddit or in one of the keyboard discords/groups depending on where you are.

You will have to test two things really to understand if the column is traced as a series or in parallel. To test if in series, you test switch column pin to next switch column pin up and down relative to each switch and see which ones have continuity, and then test from one end of the column to each switch. If you map it out that way you will see where a break is, and also if it is in series or in parallel. If it is in parallel, then a break in a single trace will not impact other switches, where as a series trace broken will affect switches after the break, always from the MCU pin. If the entire column is not functional but switch to switch continuity is fine, then it means the trace is broken between the switches to the MCU pin.

@@theboard would be nice seeing a more main stream board like corne.

@@Kaiyes_ Not sure what you mean, do you mean you want to know how the matrix is laid out for the corne? If so, you could probably find it in repos, or look at various build guides for the same PCB as whichever version you're after, and then look at the traces on the PCB to figure it out if you can't find an actual repo. I don't have a corne so I can't check/build a matrix off it.

@@theboard oh I'm building a corne. One column doesn't work. So was trying to find how to videos. Your video came up. I think I will rewatch your video few times. I'm just trying to learn how to use a multimeter to trace a why a column has broken is all

@@Kaiyes_ Ah, well have a try and reach out again if you need to :)

Every bit of rust that comes off is a flake closer lol

Hi John, Thats a really interesting approach in that using a 'surface' coating kind of approach to reduce resistance, which makes perfect sense. Great feedback! The only thing I can think of directly for some materials like iron powder/filings is oxidation/rust which would significantly increase resistance/reduce conductivity. Which any materials surface sitting than embedded would potentially suffer similar 'degradation' maybe? If I can find where my graphite went, I can definitely give it a further try some time haha. Cheers!

Thanks Noah as always :)

Thank Alan

Joris~!!!!! I hope you are doing well and living life to the max my friend, it has been indeed a very long time, but thank you for such a wonderful message. Thank you for the support from afar for all these years, without you and many of the others from the start, we (and I do mean we!) wouldn't have been able to get this journey started haha. Much love in return <3

Thanks!

Thanks Noah! I hope eventually I might be able to do an international giveaway one day haha

@@theboard woohoo!

Appreciate the feedback. Sorry to disappoint. I actually have never calibrated/recalibrated my irons, just not really a requirement for the level of soldering I do, but I do understand the concern if you need absolute certainty of the temperature. If you need something to that level however, it probably is worthwhile in getting a trusted quality device though, and not a cheap clone. Sometimes, how much you pay for is worth it, for various reasons.

They were pretty quick, like in one day, but you do need to consider that my interaction with them is that they provided the sets, so it would have been in their interest to respond quickly for my 'review' experience. You might want to follow up with them if you can if you're concerned.

I find my cheap puller bends too easily if I'm not careful, and it can also break the switch housing on the more brittle tops if I squeeze too hard, where as I guess this style kind of helps reduce that risk.

@@theboard I've been pulling Khail box blue switches and the top taps have been breaking

@@NoahMinyard I tend to find the clear tops break much easier than the solid colour plastics for sure.

@@theboard the ones I pulled have white tops

@@NoahMinyard You're just too strong without knowing it! haha

Not sure why you think it was a tutorial since the title says review, best of luck looking for the information you're after.

@@theboard I meant to say review. Coz I couldn't see anything like result etc

@@XaidiRecords What kind of result are you wanting to see? I unboxed it, turned it on, shows how it works, focuses, zooms, connects to PC input. How 'well' it does it is subjective to the individual users requirements, I don't have other units to compare this unit to, so its difficult to make that element part of the review.

Once you get to the closest physical position and focus, the 'digital' zoom is what provides the remainder of their claimed magnification. You need to use the Zoom + button on the unit.

@@theboard do not see that anyplace

@@djl2033 manuals.plus/mustool/g1200-digital-microscope-manual The up button is Page up Zoom +

@@theboard fantastic, thanks

@@theboard one more dumb question..how do you actually take a pic? haha...I think in camera mode and just press OK? but doesn't say anyplace thanks

Thanks Noah, always appreciate you dropping by :)

Most likely not really, I haven't really done anything with the software since, and its been 3 years now so I don't know if whatever software available for this is the same anymore.

I had a very small run of kits, but there wasn't a lot of interest, so after that was all gone, no more were done unfortunately.

Hi Chris, I'm glad you found it useful! Happy scraping :D

Hope you enjoy it!

Good to see you Noah, nope you're keeping well :) Thanks for watching of course ^_^

Hey Noah, good to see you again! Hopefully it can give people an appreciation of what hand tools work is like and why handcrafted goods are so expensive haha.

Interesting! I hadn't come across that information. The plane doesn't have a super wide mouth, so I would say you can certainly do smoothing with it, I was not able to use it like a scrub plane to take massive shavings!

It was compatible with my Windows 10 Pro, I can't vouch for 11 or MacOS unfortunately.

@@theboard hello, can i plug the microscope to compter and see the image on the pc monitor too ?

@@onk245 at 21:32, I plug it into the PC and the image you see in the middle of the screen is overlay from the PC.

That seems to be unfortunate. If you believe its a manufacturing fault issue that caused the stem to break in 2 days, best contact where you bought it from, or Razer I guess, and discuss if they would replace it maybe.

@@theboard bought it from amazon, ill see what i can do

According to the official details, yes iqunix.store/products/le-petit-prince-keyboard

Thank goodness for innovation!

Hey Noah~! I'm still very much a 100% or 96key user where I can but 60%-65% can be fun. My brother actually bought one of the GammaKay LK67's on sale apparently so when it comes in I'll help him with some switches, maybe some keycaps or something as he's never been down to such a small form yet!

GMK is a European Keycap manufacturer, their retail shop is uniqey.net/ That said, set creation is primarily by designer, so what you really want are designers who are ISO Nordic creators whose base sets include your required keycaps. That is hard to get though since to reach MoQ for orders, catering to the international audience means unfortunately mostly ANSI layouts at a minimum.

@@theboard which basically means im never gonna have cool keyboard.

:P Just need to win a lottery or something or start a Nordic keyboard movement :D

Hope you enjoy them!

Thanks Noah! Always appreciate the watch :)

Can you clarify what you mean by using usb 2.4g? If you are using the switch on the 2.4g side, its using wireless connection, not USB? Or do you mean you are plugged into the USB but the switch is on the 2.4g? According to the manual, when you are connected with the USB cable and in either BT or 2.4g, the Fn light will blink to indicate charging. If it is solid red then battery is low. However when I have mine plugged in, it is solid red also In USB mode though, the light is also on as solid red, so I'm not 100% if it is charging or not. I do not have my USB voltage pass-through handy, I'm not 100% sure where it is, but if you get one (something that measures USB current draw), you would be able to plug it in and check if it is drawing higher current indicating it is charging, rather than standard operation, even with the LEDs on. Sorry I can't be more helpful than this at this point in time!

Ohh I see. Just to clarify, yes I was talking about 2.4g wireless connection. I do like to have rgb on so I think the battery goes down faster, and so every couple of days the rgb will still work, but not on the fn key as it’s blinking red, I assume that is just telling me I gotta charge it. Thank you for the response though I really appreciate 🙏

No worries, hope you keep enjoying it!

Did you check you don't have cold solder joints in your life?

Thanks Noah, I'm very much glad it actually worked, they told me like 3 days after I gave it back to them lol.....

You could look at maybe something like this - www.macprovideo.com/article/iphone-app/shooting-low-budget-multi-cam-videos-for-live-shows-and-music-videos

Hi Noah! hahaha, well, it will hopefully eventually, all come together lol :P

Clackity click

Hi Noah! Well, its working haha. Will have a video or two that will be a little more direct keyboard I hope, to break it up a little before back onto making a wrist rest!

Slightly different for Windows to Mac. Mac, it is Fn+F10 = Mute, Fn+F11 = Vol(-), Fn+F12 = Vol(+). Win, it is Fn+F2 = Vol(-), Fn+F3 = Vol(+), Fn+F4 = Mute.

@@theboard thank you!