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Absolutely - and we'll be here!

If we are able I would love that! The difficulty is that we are not typically on site during a rainstorm, only between storms. Sometimes homeowners have sent us footage after our job, so I will try and include those as we get them. We don't get calls of concerns afterwards, so we know they're functioning well, but it would be nice to see it in action. Thanks for the suggestion!

@ perhaps you could ask the client to film it and send it to you?

Thank you so much!

Thank you 🙏 it’s a philosophy that’s taken us a long way!

Holes face "down" actually means the holes face at 4 and 8 o'clock, leaving the bottom of the pipe (between 4 and 8) to carry the water. Hope this makes sense!

Thank you so much for your words - they mean a lot and we love to hear the encouragement. You may have to do a little vetting but hopefully you can find a good contractor without too much trouble. Thanks for watching and best of luck!

It really depends on your area and the specifics of your system. I would recommend getting at least two and probably three quotes to get an accurate feel for what to expect. Thanks for watching and best of luck!

That's why we use a laser level so there's no accidental success! 😄

@@DallasDrainageProsmust be a amazing level theres no success at all lol who are you kidding ?? standing on the pipe at 5.18 and counting that as fall is ridiculous thats called bending the pipe the fact that you show the height of the outlet at kerb level, can you explain how you have a trench and pipe lower than the outlet and have fall over that distance ????????? you dont what you have is a ramp upwards towards the end

@@wideawake3959 haha that's a good catch at 5.18 😂- it does look funny but that's not the whole install! As far as how this works, the yard slopes toward the curb - the beginning of the yard where we started the drain has a high enough elevation that while the pipe does get closer to the surface, it didn't require that we install the pipe going upward. What is actually happening is that the terrain goes downward, toward the pipe. Hope that makes sense!

@@DallasDrainagePros its not possible to get fall over that distance 2.31 shows how little fall you can possibly have, due to the height of kerb exit point you drilled its about 100mm max so if the pipe is exiting at 100mm at kerb level, and you would need a minimum of 100mm of dirt on top all the way along, otherwise the grass would die without regular watering especially with all the drainage below!! hence no fall possible hope that makes sense!

Thank you so much!

Thank you! As far as cost, it really depends on your area and the specifics of your system. I would recommend getting at least two and probably three quotes to get an accurate feel for what to expect. Best of luck!

Dejamos a menos 2 o 3" de tierra debajo del sacate. Asi debe de estar bien. 👍

@@DallasDrainagePros muchas gracias tengo un trabajo 1 hacer y creo q la mejor propuesta osea un sistema de drenaje es este, espero q todo salga bien, saludos, gracias por responder mi pregunta, bendiciones.

The reason for the holes is to accomplish the goal of this particular drainage system, which is to absorb groundwater. This open system (pipe with holes, gravel and filter fabric) allows excess moisture in the ground to be drawn into the trench. As the water fills up in the trench, it falls into the holes and then runs down the bottom of the pipe towards the exit. Using a solid pipe is for when you want to collect surface water. If standing water above ground is the issue, an area drain (catch basin) would be installed to collect the water. The water which fills up the basin then drains out into the pipe, ultimately draining toward the exit. Thanks for watching - Hope this helps!

Great questions - as far as coverage for a french drain, it's really going to depend on your soil (sand or clay) but around here we generally expect good absorption 4ft on either side of the trench. In this case, we were addressing standing water that was particularly bad in that specific area. As for slope, you need 1% for PVC pipe. That's 1ft for every 100ft of distance. Remember though that this is 1% at the bottom of the pipe, not 1% along the surface. For this reason, you must account for the difference between the top of the soil and the bottom of your pipe at the start of your drain. For example, a 4" pipe sitting 6" in the ground, would mean that you need 22" of slope over 100ft. Hope this makes sense!

@@DallasDrainagePros A strange way to express it as you seem to be calculating the water exit point (22") based on the depth of the [bottom of the] pipe at the far end (10") for a 100' run. Whereas usually the exit height is determined by your drainage constraints. In your video above the exit point for the water (about which you had no choice) going through the kerb being just a few inches below the level of the grass at that point means that, unless the land had a natural slope down to it, you could barely have any downward slope on it at all, if any. However in your job above I think the land does luckily have a natural downward slope to it. I am sure you would have preferred to bury the pipe much deeper though. I shall be using perforated pipe rather than PVC pipe though.

1% for PVC pipe. That's 1ft for every 100ft of distance. Remember though that this is 1% at the bottom of the pipe, not 1% along the surface. For this reason, you must account for the difference between the top of the soil and the bottom of your pipe at the start of your drain. For example, a 4" pipe sitting 6" in the ground, would mean that you need 22" of slope over 100ft. Hope this makes sense!

@@DallasDrainagePros makes perfect sense! Thank you!

Thank you so much - this philosophy has really taken us far. I appreciate you watching and for leaving the encouraging comment!

We purchase our drainage materials from Longhorn Irrigation, which is a local distributor here in Dallas, TX. I would search your area for an irrigation supply store - they generally have drainage products as well.

Haha I guess that’s why we’re called drainage pros and not concrete pros 😅

@@DallasDrainagePros appreciate your humble reply .enjoy the week!

It’s going to depend on what type of French drain, the depth it is installed, as well as where you live. I would recommend getting a couple more estimates for the same thing so you have some reference. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Drainage is an unregulated industry in the state of Texas, which can be a good thing and a bad thing. Welcome to Texas!

That can certainly be true (depending where you are.) Here in Dallas with these smaller properties, however, this sort of thing tends to fall on the down-hill neighbor as their own responsibility. The city doesn't really get involved unless it's a commercial property. Thanks for watching and for the feedback!

​@@DallasDrainagePros It's free if they can win as water-code gives both attorney & engineering fees. If they are in an area with OSSFs then the property is required to have a 'comprehensive drainage plan' that should include arrows on the site plan directing surface water away from entering the OSSF & diluting the bacteria populations. It's not your job to drain your neighbor's developed-land.

Sounds like you've got a solid design. The extra soil above is not really a problem. As long as the moisture will eventually have an outlet, that's all you need. Thanks for the question!

Thanks so much for getting back to me. On the French Drain portion of the pipe does it need a 1% slope ? I read somewhere where it can be almost level and hydrostatic pressure will push the water out.

@@goflyhighrc 1% is still recommended. Hydrostatic pressure is not inside the pipe itself - it is simply what forces water out of the surrounding soil and into the pipe. Once the water percolates up into the pipe through the holes, it's just running down a sloped, open drain pipe. Good luck on your project, and let us know how it goes!

There's no hard rule. As far as dirt above, it depends on the objective - for a french drain that is only addressing saturation toward the top of the soil, we go about 12" deep with 2-3" of soil above. For foundations, however, we generally want to have the pipe below the bottom of the foundation, so as to be able to draw saturation out (this would usually be 24" or more, so the soil above would be 12" or more.) Hope this helps!

Thank you!

You generally want 2% minimum slope to make a pop up outlet most effective, though you can do 1%. The main problem with less slope is that sediment will build up at the 90 because the water is not flowing fast enough.

You want the pipe towards the bottom of the entire length of the trench, with most of the gravel on top of the pipe. For that reason, your trench needs to slope along with the pipe. As far as depth, it depends on the objective - for a french drain that is only addressing saturation toward the top of the soil, we go about 12" deep. For foundations, however, we generally want to have the pipe below the bottom of the foundation, so as to be able to draw saturation out (this would usually be 24" or more) Hope this helps and that it answers your questions!

That could be a good idea. Unfortunately that may be a solution for a different part of the country where the soil is sandier and will absorb water underground if dug deep enough. In the north Texas area we have clay for several feet, and then rock. A catch basin will just fill up and overflow, making the French drain obsolete. It is pretty standard operating procedure to discharge to public storm systems for this sort of thing. Thanks for sharing!

That's the truth!

Thank you very much!

Great question. There are different locations to put a french drain, depending on what you are trying to accomplish. The french drain in this case was designed to draw water out from under the foundation, and that is more effective the closer it is to the issue (which was water under the house.) To your point, the fact that the french drain is adjacent to the foundation would be a problem, except that it is exceptionally deep, and has a layer of dirt with surface drainage above it. This means that the majority of water drains away through the solid pipe system, while only the water that seeps through the dirt goes into the gravel trench drain, which is then wicked away quickly. If the french drain were installed on the surface like many of them are, then we would want it to be about 3 feet away from the foundation, because these do in fact draw surface water toward them. So you are correct in your thinking. Essentially, if the french drain is deep - 2-3 feet down (and below the foundation), it can be placed up against the house. If it is shallow, it needs to be separated so as not to draw water toward the foundation. Thanks for watching and for the great question!

@@DallasDrainagePros wow, thanks man, GREAT answer - I have asked this question on about 4 different drainage channels and you are the first to explain it adequately in a way that makes sense. You know your stuff. Thx again, subscribed

@@coreyk2998 Absolutely - thank you so much!

Thank you!

🎉👍🤗

Thanks! Depends on the application - this project used SDR35 which is very dense pipe. Not as dense as Sch 40, but I’ve actually never seen it have issues long term.

In our experience, while there’s not a hard rule, we try to drop a catch basin every 10-20ft in a problem area (10 if it’s really problematic and we’re concerned about water getting to the basin, with 20 being more common.) The real decider, however, will be does the ground continuously slope toward the basin? If it does not, and the ground goes flat or slopes up before going back down, you’ll need another basin, or want to consider grading toward the basin if possible. Hope that helps!

Haha no doubt - that’s not usually the case!

Thank you so much - Glad it was helpful!

Thank you so much - glad it was helpful!