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😁👌 EXCELLENT DETECTIVE WORK ‼️ 💪😎👍🧰 😜🤑💰👹🇺🇲

Awesome troubleshooting! Thanks for sharing.

My blower is stuck on hi. Won't shut off.

It’s just not blowing hot air ?

Thanks for the video, it works now 👍

I cut a small length of vacuum hose and slit it down one side. Then pushed it into position on the edge of that hole where the wiring harness passes into that upper rail. This was a preemptive "fix". I don't have a problem yet in this area, and now hopefully I will never have one. My problem is the blower motor resistor.

Thank you!!! I went through all the typical trouble-shooting steps for the blower to no avail. I landed on this video and thought... why not? I found it was the EXACT same wire issue on my daughter's 2007 Kia Sportage. The wire was corroded right at the fuse connector. Fixed the wire connection with a makeshift metal crimp, added some E6000 glue for good measure (and water proofing). Fan works great again!

How did you reconnect the wire?

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yes...this is the holiday

RE: Tuning woes with REVO 3.3 The operating temps should be at 270ish, I run my engines at around 245-280 depending on the day. here the guide, I’ve just copied this from a file on my computer so sorry if there are some inconsistencies with your problems. (I'll share this around hopefully it helps. Cheers) now, for the idle being too high or too low, first set it back to factory which is 4 turns out on the high speed needle and 1.75 turns out on the low speed, start the truck and run it around to let it warm up, once you have it warmed up bring it in and let it idle, if it's to high you will need to turn the idle screw out maybe 1/4 or 1/8th of a turn, and see how it's idling then, if you can’t get the truck to start, give it a little bit of throttle, once the engine is warm it should start up very easily. then one you have it idling you can start tuning, when your tuning, go in very small increments at a time, and ALWAYS tune the high-speed needle first, I usually go by 1/12 or 1/16th of a turn at a time, but must guys go 1/8th of a turn, after each adjustment do a few high-speed passes, take very careful note of 3 things. 1. the performance, has it gotten better or worse? when you start getting the rpm up does it sound like it's cutting out? if it sounds like it's cutting out then you are to lean and need to richen the HSN, if it is loading up and the performance is very sluggish then it is rich and you can go a little leaner 2. the smoke trail, there should always be a nice, clearly visible trail of blue smoke coming from the exhaust, always, if you cannot see a good trail of smoke, it is another sign of being to lean, if you’ve a lot of smoke at all rpms then you can go a little leaner 3. the temperature, since this is your first nitro truck it is a good idea, you get a good, reliable temp gauge, the engine should not go over 270 degrees F, if it does it is another sign of being to lean and you should richen it up just a little bit, but something most people over look is that you should not run under 190 degrees, if you do the piston sleeve doesn't expand enough and the engine will wear out very quickly. a last note on the high-speed needle is, never tune by one symptom alone, never tune just by performance, or smoke trail or temp, use at least two, so if you lean the engine out and the temps go from 220 to 230, and you note it's a little more powerful and go a little leaner, the only time you should ever tune by using just one symptom is when: A: you run to lean and the engine start hesitating and cutting out B: the temp goes above 290 degrees F in both cases you need to richen the HSN by at least 1/8th of a turn if not more. now for tuning the low-speed needle one the high-speed needle is set to where you want it, you can start with the low speed, start off at the factory setting, and just like the HSN tune in small increments of at least 1/8th of a turn, if not smaller, when tuning the low speed, you are aiming for a nice crisp throttle response, if you run the low speed to lean you will eat through glow plugs very quickly and it can damage your engine. once you start getting close to what you think is the best throttle response, tune in smaller increments, once you get it so as soon as you touch the throttle the engine start revving up and doesn't bog down at all, so as soon as you hit the gas, the truck takes off, once you get to that point do not lean it any further, and for a safe guard i like to richen it by 1/16 of a turn. to test to see if the low-speed needle is set to rich or to lean you need to do the pinch test, all you do is pinch the fuel line, and count how many seconds it takes for the engine to die, when you pinch the fuel line, the engine should idle normally for a second or two, then just before it dies it should rev up a few hundred rpm, then die on the count of 3. if the engine dies in 2 seconds or less, or does not rev up at all, you are to lean and need to richen the low-speed needle, if the engine takes more than 3 or 4 seconds to die, you are too rich and can lean the engine out a bit more. for then engine not start, check to see if the glow plugs good, to do that just take the plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire, hold the glow plug up against the cooling head, insert the starter wand into the truck and press the red button, if the wire in the plug glows it's good, if it doesn’t you need a new plug, if the plugs good it may be because the engine is flooded, so you need to take the glow plug out, pinch the flue line, turn the truck upside down and turn it over with the start wand and see if that helps. once you have done all your tuning you might have to set the idle again, if you do just follow the steps I posted at the top of the page, you should never have to touch the idle screw unless the truck is idling high enough for the clutch to engage, or that low it won’t start.

#shootvideosduringdaylight

thanks brother this makes my life so easy and god bless

I had the plug wiring to burn up at the MOV at the floor board under the dash.

I've had similar issue only intermitent, originally thought FET, but on removing motor there was slight water ingress noticed from pollen filters down. Dried it out and its working again. However, this video and findings is definitely worth checking out as this is the second time its happened now. Great video and info Total Stranger 👍

Thank you for this video! My friends 2007 Sportage had this same issue, and now it is fixed👍

Wow! Kia could spend 2 extra cents for a rubber grommet to go around that metal. I have a 14 Sportage, and the longer I own the car I'm noticing things like this. Not all vehicles are perfect, but they had to have known that would be an issue.

Where is the problem on a 2009 Kia Sportage. No heat or AC.

Merci s etais ca mon probleme .

Thank so much

My blowers work but even when I turn them off the blowers stay on at full power cant even lower the speed they are stuck on

You couldn’t wait till light to do video ?

I went at the fuse box on the advice of this video, and didn't find the same problem. I did however find the actual problem, the connection had melted down right at the spade connector. Some images: imgur.com/a/tBPUOHI If you don't find the problem in the video, it's worth checking to see if this is your problem before you put everything back in.

Good video

That's a good one to help out others love it but what you need is a better engine maybe a novarossi or o.s 18tz it will go faster and you will not have lots of problems just an idea nitro brother

My 06 sportage you had to tap the fender to get headlights. I bet this is the problem

My kia sportsge 2007 Only blows cold air when I put the heating on Iv replaced the thermostat and flushed all fluids ect Cant figure it out

Problem at ignition point

Problem is at ignition switch conection

Problem is at ignition switch conection