Видео

@@TheDervMan thank you, just rest of engine to prep n paint

@@Tattytyres Can we have a video of that too please 😀

@@TheDervMan yeah, on with it, also on with plasti-gauge the main bearings

@@mikerobertson710 just drilled the broken bolts out then used a easy out to remove broken bolts, then re tappped threads

@@Tattytyres thank you, i'll try that

@ im guessing your refurbing your cover too

@@Tattytyres yeah, i'm going to Cerakote mine

@ yeah thats a good product, iv used it before

@@ryaniedema4209 id put bolt in again and then try and remove guide, the guide may of dropped, because of cam chain tensioner pressure, if so id remove cam chain tensioner and refit bolt, if you watch one of the videos on splitting the engine you will see full guides, do you need photos? Im on instagram and could send them that way?

@@ryaniedema4209 looked on my engine split video, look at time 7:11 onwards you can see where bolts fits into chain guide , hope this helps

@@MrPierced691 thanks keep watching for updates and im on with rebuilding video edits next, please like share n subscribe thanks

@@althepal6818 i use gs911 for calibrating, but with this sensor iv heard that you can fit and it will self calibrate when you go for a ride thanks

@ thanks. This will be my winter project! Glad tou did this video.

@ no worries glad video helped,

@@karolas123 interesting , how do i do that thank you

@@karolas123 hi iv had a go see if thats better thanks

@@Tattytyres ruclips.net/video/f5NB2sBNGo8/видео.html

⁠@@DJGUGUMIX yeah theres a correct way to insert spring, you can see lay out of spring in video, see 2:42. Time. most compressed part of spring goes in fork tube first, thanks

@@Tattytyres hi, i couldnt see in the video...or youre too fast or my computer to slow, thats why i asked...tks for the reply

Your welcome, dont forget to subscribe thanks

@@gervattertod924 its 2006 buddy

@@Hunter-ij9ys i bought tool from motorworks , made ring easy to move

@@joshsevens9611 hi, motorworks sell them, but this tool is home made, if you look in haynes manual it gives you measurements on how to make one too

@@patriciovillalobosvaldes216 hi, the shocks are standard gs and lower springs the shock manufactures are wp

@@Tattytyres thank you 👍

@@patriciovillalobosvaldes216 no probs, check out my other videos thanks

@@stevasil yeah i used resistant heat shrink, i wasnt sure how modern fuels would react with heat shrink

@@MarcoFaralli-z8w the paste was supplied with fitting, its brand was gasolia

@@theskiband-ur3tw good old west yorkshire accent ha, i got my parts from motorworks, it should list your year bike, are u in uk?

@@Tattytyresthanks mate, yeah I’m in the North West and I’ve spent plenty of money at Motorworks over the years. Actually, I looked at the Ducati.Tech website. Mine’s a 2005 GS so it’s their QR-11 set £105 - not too bad and certainly better than fuel oissing out everywhere when your out and about 😅

@@aviator666 hi i got the fuel strip from motorworks only took a couple of days to be delivered

@@scorpio9578 yeah some people use the motor off a ford, i prefer to clean up the old motor, on my abs pump the brushes were just sticking a bit and that fixed my motor fault

@@Tattytyres I agree, best to repair the original unit. I'll hopefuuly have solved my brake issues, thanks again

ruclips.net/video/QiRzdXoZ8bk/видео.htmlsi=L5p9GSutCZU_ehbc

@@MrSTANKE91 hi iv had same fault as you, i fixed my fault by replacing the hydraulic metal unit, i had a bad pressure sensor, on your gs911 tool it will show rear brake active , hope this helps thank you

@@Tattytyres Thanks. I will check if there is possibility to buy only that part. Regards

@@MrSTANKE91 i had to buy the complete unit, cost around £100,

@@Tattytyres it is cheap. Sorry to ask, but where did you buy it from? Complete new pump coast about 2000€ in bmw. Thanks

@@MrSTANKE91 im in uk and bought the abs unit from a bike breakers called motomine, cost me about £100, my bike is 2007 and i used a 2010 abs unit, what year bike is yours

@@RichardvanDijk-q6c yeah the birds are loud where i am ha, where in world are u ? Im in uk i used motomine they did me a great price

@@cozydram1 hi. First engine was ebay, and second engine was market place, you see them advertised every so often, are you having problems with your engine

@@Tattytyres hi chap ..thank you for replying.......I'm not presently having problems but would love to have a back up and another to strip and learn dis/re assembly of said engine....I have a R1200GSA 2015 and she's pouring nicely so far but wish to know how too do all that you have done to yours ....no I'm not a mechanic.....I am presently restoring a R60/6 1974 and have learn't a lot about this engine and look forward with in trepidation to move on to a 1200 engine.....I have no wishes for a 1250+ engine I totally love this bike.......anywhoo thanks

@@pepitogrillo8813 i used 510ml of fork oil

@@Tattytyres thanks

Honda repair manual indicates 419ml for 2016 to 2019 model wich i think those forks belong to

@@DJGUGUMIX i usually measure the oil that came out of fork, as long as the fork wasnt leaking oil, but yes always look up oil volumes on work shop manual

@@Tattytyres do you also have take out 510ml used oil out of your forks ? Mine where with the original set up and i removed around 430ml...i wasn't criticing that you've put the 510ml, but only sharing an info that i've checked recently in the manual...in fact mechanics said me that a litle bit more wont make difference, since its equal in both forks

@@cozydram1 i bought engine from a market, it had dropped a valve, im stripping this engine to repair my other engine which has damaged engine casings

@@AnalogDude_ yeah i like the real oem site because it shows you what parts fit other models

@@Tattytyres The BMW dealer has this ability in their company software as well, i saw when i was there. the grips of the R1150/R1100 for example are also used on much newer models, no so much boxer or 4/6 cyl models.

@@Tattytyres Today, i saw, a fully loaded R1250GS adventure, these are massively big 2 wheeled vehicles, can you compare something? but yet it works.

@@AnalogDude_ yeah i have ridden my adventure off road and it doesnt make sense how a big bike can handle so well, its the best all round bike iv owned and iv had alot of bikes over the years

@@Tattytyres Yep, the final drive of the R1150 went ll the way back to the K1100, K1 with paralever, the same casting. seeming it started with the R100GS in 1986 or so. this swing arm looks like the one on the R1150, while the one on the R1100 was squared. It was also patented. dry weight up to 290kg for the k1600 or so. They mastered it, it's simply stunning. i wonder why you can't choose on the current RS models for telelever. The new R1300GS presented a couple of days ago doesn't have a clutch lever. They went like Honda on the trans alp with a dual clutch system, i think.

@@smoll.miniatures hi give your pistons a good clean because theres A and B type pistons,

@@Tattytyres Thanks for the info! How can you tell which you have? Is it ok to use an “A” piston and cylinder on one side and a “B” piston and cylinder on the other or should they match? My bike dropped a valve the other day 🤦‍♂️ no hole in the piston, oil is clean and Conrod isn’t bent so I’m hoping I can Chuck a new piston, cylinder and head on. Bike is a 2004 and only has 26k miles. Nightmare!

@@smoll.miniatures thats very low miles for that engine to drop a valve, i can look at my spare piston to see which type i have. Real oem are good for comparing parts, and it tells you which other year bikes the parts fit. I will have a quick look. If theres no damage to piston or liner could you reuse?

@@Tattytyres Yes just my luck. ☹️ The piston, cylinder and head are all damaged and need to be replaced unfortunately. I planned to buy a second hand piston and cylinder together so they would be matching. I presume that as long as the piston matches the cylinder it doesn’t matter what the other side has but I need to be certain. Thanks

Looks like 2002 to 2007 part number for piston was superseded to 11257703043, so you might need to measure your old piston but looks like your ok for a newer type AB piston, only applys to AB cylinder, which you should have,

Hi which part of video thanks

@@Tattytyres Hi, at 7:44?

Hi, yeah this is the roller ball bearing for the rear balancer shaft, its hard to see from video, but i think its the bearing cage that looks dull, do you need any info on the bearing thanks

Hi, yes if you know dimmensions? Tnx!

@@ivanbrlecic6105 i will bob in garage later and look at bearing part number

Yeah sure, i will slip a feeler gauge down sides too

@@smoll.miniatures just measured my conrod big end and its 0.10mm feeler gauge that i can slip down side

@@smoll.miniatures yeah the haynes manuals are good for torque values, and im sure head studs are reusable, i reuse mine, only bolts i replaced are conrod bolts, are you rebuilding your engine?

@@smoll.miniatures im currently stripping my other spare engine to use the main casings, on this engine im stripping it also dropped a valve, the bottom end on these engines are strong, iv not measured anything yet but just from inspection it looks like its only damaged the piston, and head, so you might get lucky and get away with replacing piston and head, my next video is cylinder removal on my spare engine so stay tuned

@@AnalogDude_ yeah iv got a cold coming on, yeah a mic would come in handy, i hate hearing my own voice ha

@@Lab0RatorXV3 yeah i will try and remove the pressure sensor, i noticed a part number on sensor, maby its fixable

@@Tattytyres Alright I'll be waiting on that video! BTW If you need the BMW K2x diagrams and torque specs shoot me a message I'll send you the iso file.

@@FULLBOREBIKES yorkshire laddy ha

@@NeilHayes-p7x yeah im hoping the used block is going to last, at least i know the motor is good on the broken valve block, not had time to strip more of my spare engine, this fault has taken up a bit of my spare time ha, hows your projects going,

Excellent video , kinda confirms that the rear brake pressure sensor fault that was on my unit is not fixable - kudos to you for the process of elimination. Must get me one of those GS-911 👍👍👍

@@shades32uk yeah having the gs911 made it easier to fault find, also when i used the gs911 to bleed brakes it made my brakes feel great, hope video helps,

Was yours the motor fault? Im going to do a part 2 video about taking abs control module off to try and solve my pressure fault, thanks for watching

My fault was only about the motor. Now as far as I know pressure faults are "unfixable" , even modulemaster says they can't fix it. But since you're going to take it apart , ping me and maybe i can give some insight (hopefully). If not I'm still looking forward to part 2!

Yeah i think im on road to a replacement abs unit, i messaged module masters, they were very helpful, it would be helpful to know if i can use any used abs unit from 2007 to 2012. And if abs unit needs coding to my bike

Some say they don't need coding some say they do. Now im new to BMW motorcycles but im extremely well versed in BMW cars, knowing BMW im sure as hell it's going to need coding. As far as the module goes I'm pretty certain you can use any K25 one , except the servo assist which were before 2007.

Gs911 diagnostic tool thanks

Realoem is good for comparing part numbers

@@Tattytyres German BMW dealer with online "ersatzteile catalog" probably better. That's how i figured i could use R1150 parts on my R1100, even the axle through the front wheel was the same, the "tacho" mechanism, bearings, although the "fork" tubes was not due to other brake calipers, but the inner tubes are. : )

Good info, u know your bmw’s

@@Tattytyres Only the R1100RS - R1150RS and a little on the GS, because i have the final drive of a 1150GS. This final drive casing was used on the K1100, K1200, R1100 & R1150, apart from different gears, but could have different holes for speed sensor, ABS or the GS mudguard, but the casting was the same. When i got hold of R1150RS subframe, i knew i could upgrade to 6 speed with hydraulic clutch, new hand controls. I had the wheels, bigger brake, fork already. You might wanna try a RS Final drive if you never leave the road. you loose a 5/6% acceleration but gain that same in topspeed. Look for: "K1200S Endantrieb zerlegen" if you see some Russain text in the title you're good, that's the guy i told you about, that made his own tools to dismount and mount his final drive, the one design u have. Soon i can tell you what they charge to rebuild one, with all bearings, seals new.

Sounds like a air leak on the intake manifold

Hi sorry you dont like video, i had to change music as i had a copy right claim and it changed my video edit, reason im stripping this engine is because i have a r1200gs and when i checked my engine oil after a service i found metal particles, so i bought this engine to take apart to try and work out where metal particles were coming from, my bike still runs fine and iv covered over 15,000miles since, i even rebuilt top ends on my bike and big end bearings were fine, i hope you enjoy rest of my videos, im no expert and videos are there to just show whats inside the engine, thanks

Great info thank you very much

@@Tattytyres Just an idea, drill 2 mm hole in center of the broken bolt, just deep enough to pierce the other side, fill it with "this" oil and let it stand for few days, look if the oil level drops, then try to make slot for a screwdriver, use a contra tap to unlock broken bolts or weld something on. 3 engines, you need 1 more gearbox to make it complete and black. : ) Looking forward to next video.

Yeah i should have lots of spares ha, yeah i will leave to soak, but i will prob not reuse the cases, i think i will degrease them and put them on garage wall as a display, just hoping the spare engine cases are good ha

@@Tattytyres I can't judge for you, but probably a good idea to look for a used final drive for the same GS, a RS, RT has a smaller crown wheel, 2 teeth less (i know i have both for my R1100RS), but will go faster in top speed vs slower acceleration, difference = 6%. For the day yours brakes down, i know a guy that has a R1200GS and did more than 250.000 km and still driving around, although with recent new shaft. it's luck based. There are 2 models, the first one has a aluminum "plate" to bolt the wheel on, the newer one has a inox plate, you should research if the newer plate or newer final drive fits older models. It's quite a job to take it apart where you need to build tools to get it apart and together again. also your need a special socket for the input shaft, witch probably hard to get if not impossible, like in my case. You need to make heavy duty adapter plates with thread rods to pull that plate off using the bolt holes from the casing, use the bolts around to pull it. some guy with a BMW K1200S posted a video maybe your can find it. it looked like he used a CNC plasma cutter to make these plates.

Yeah, i didnt use music on rest of videos thanks

@@Tattytyres Going to watch them. I can hear better without the music thanks.

I had to change music and it kinda messed the video up, i hope u enjoy rest of videos thank you