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@soerengrupe depends on exact use and surface but the difference between 32 and 35 is quite minimal so you should be good with either really.

@@JetAgeOfLotus Thank you.

Good guess, but no. The shoguns that i have worked on have all had slightly sloping top tubes. This is horizontal.

Can you? Possibly, it depends on the exact drop and the size tire you would want to run. Would you want to is the proper question and my answer would be definitely no. This frame has been quite well thought out for a specific use with disc brakes as it preferred set up. For me it would be a shame to veer that far from its original intended set up. If you specifically wanted to get away from a disc brake set up there are still steel frames that can be purchased that have the option for cantilever brakes or V brakes, which in my opinion are more appropriate for this type of use than caliper brakes. Hope that helps.

@@uncLays thank you. I appreciate the kind words🙂

Thanks. Always had a soft spot for British racing green. I will forever be reminded of the mgb's, minis, and jag's of yesteryear.

@@rollypollyguy3976 very well stated and unfortunately, true. The name would be great though. Maybe I should make some decals.

@momofabian5395 There are some safety concerns with putting very wide tires on older, narrower inner width, rims. Like 38mm and above. The light bulb shape that happens with this combination can lead to the tire rolling over on to its side. This is more likely to be an issue if you are riding hard as opposed to leisurely. So depending on your specific usage it would be more of an issue or not. Mavic has a chart for their recommended inner rim width max tire size combinations that you can find online. They are fairly forgiving as to where most other manufacturers I have seen are much more conservative with their recommendations. Hope that helps.

Thanks, man. There is nothing better than a quality steel frame. The poly tubing kind of evolved because I noticed that I wore through the paint on my daily driver from picking it up to put on my shoulder, grabbing the exposed rear brake cable with the toptube. I never really liked the donuts, so I had to come up with another solution. Later I realized it solves the cable rub for frame bagsas well.

@lauig Thank you for taking the time to comment. It's always good to feel your work is appreciated.

@sz12359 I assume you watched it without subtitles. The subtitles have all the info.

@BrockNew The bars are an interesting solution that integrates handle bar and front rack into one unit. This system does away with many mounting issues one would encounter while trying to add a front rack to your existing set up. The biggest drawback for me is that they have tried to make the system fairly universal, but the bars are very minimally swept back and because you lose the ability to rotate the bars finding the appropriate hand distance/height becomes difficult. You have to use stem length and inclination and in some situations, it is not possible. Fortunately with the super short stem we were able to achieve a comfortable riding position. This particular client uses this bike very frequently, and although I am not a big fan of the aesthetic of these bars/rack, they have served his purpose perfectly. Hope that helps.

@@mattiasprange5724 seeing as this is originally a triple crankset the original shimano BB that was used was probably 122mm. It varies with exact model. I have found from 118-126 with shimano triples. If you are not using the inner plate and depending on the frame you can usually get away with down to a 113. However all of this assumes JIS. Hope that helps.

Thanks a lot! That’s really helpful!

@@peternaughton3301 Thank you very much for the kind words. It is always nice to know your hard work is appreciated.

@@DastanAitmurzaev Thank you for the kind words.

@@johnfowler4820 Thank you for the kind words.

@@pawelkarpinski7961 Thank you. Regarding the time with no uploads. I am a workshop of one person and after this summer there was quite a big rush of people wanting to get there bikes maintained/repaired, so the last couple weeks have been all about service and few projects. I do enjoy putting the work up for people to see but the business comes first. In regards to the question of should someone remove the BB each season, i would say it really depends on the conditions. If you live in a place with a very large temperature difference over one season, snow, salted roads and such, I think its not a bad idea, in that it, the removal, inspection, and cleaning can prevent oxidation from taking hold in that area. Also depends on the design of BB. If we are talking about an old cup and cone type BB then the answer is immediately yes. Remove, clean, inspect, regrease, replace and adjust. If we are talking about sealed bearings, there isnt really any adjustment that can be made and the only real benefit would be to clean and renew the anti-sieze. There of course is a note of caution as every time you remove and replace the BB thats added stress on the threads. Some people are notorious for cross threading and that can maul the threads enough such that there isnt enough material left to create a sturdy enough union and the bb will eventually strip the BB and or BB shell. With head set again depends on design. In my experience loose ball headsets are more prone to contamination and for that reason more maintenance is required. Hope that helps.

@@sheensheeng_ sure. What are your questions?

@@vanwilder1101 Over the years I have assembled hundreds of bikes. And that number is not figurative, or an exaggeration. New and old and on a few occasions I have mounted a brand new head set that binds. In each case, like this one, there was an asymmetry in the head tube and mostly it was that the upper and lower surface were not parrallel. After facing the head tube and remounting the same head set the binding was gone. So i will continue with my experience of what works. Also I know i was correct about the the upper and lower surfaces not being parrallel because of the witness marks left by the facing tool. If it were just a high spot in the paint i would have been able to shave off just the high spot of the paint without getting to metal which was not the case. In conclusion I have found that more precision equals more repeatable long lasting results. I dont see why you would be advocating for less, but you build your way and i will build mine.

@@TheUndeadMechanic Well, I've literally built hundreds of bikes too, for nearly 40 years, and when I say built, I mean literally built frames. What your suggesting goes against physics, the cup seats in the tube itself, not on the top edge, it only rests on the top edge. Given there is at least one area of the head lug that is parallel, and the cup is inserted deep enough to spec, there would technically be no issue- it's simply how it works. The binding issues you may have had is a worn inner tube, often when a wrong headset is used, like a 30.2 ISO being jammed into 30.0 JIS head tube spec, that can cause binding and poor seating. Excessive wear on the inside of the head tube can, at times, cause this issue, not the top or bottom edge of the lugs. Again, it's simple physics

@@Thomas-o7i You can but then your canti placement will have to be accommodated.

@@paulh6591 Thank you very much for sharing your experience. I consider the longevity of the usefulness of an item a testament to its good design. Glad to hear that after so many years those bikes are still providing enjoyment.

On this project I specifically mentioned to the client that the finish would be very delicate and probably only last for about two years if treated very gently and the client was ok with that. He knew that his riding would be occasioanl and that the bike would be kept in doors. You are correct in the assumption that without a proper primer the clear will not adhere sufficiently to provide the durability necessary to endure typical use. To do this properly becomes quite expensive as the paints necessary are very specific and not cheap. I do not yet have a video on the specific finishing process of the steel but have in mind to once i have another project like this. Thanks for watching, I hope you find this response useful.

26 x 2.10

Thanks for the encouraging words. It's always good to know that the intended purpose was achieved.

If it was this color, it must have been this bike, seeing as it is custom.

Not very interesting really. Just a small oversight. 50's were the original set on this build, but after they wore out with further discussion with the client, we settled on the 43's. My original notes had not been updated, hence the error. I strive to be as accurate as possible. Thanks for the keen eye. The correction has been made.

Did you fit a 50mm tire for the rear? Surly’s webpage says the max is 42mm.

@petesjk In this case we placed a panaracer gravelking ss+ 700x50c tire on a mavic crossmax wheel and it fit with a very tight tolerance. The closest distance was between the chainstays with only a few mm. If the rider weight or carried weight is significant enough the rim could possibly be displaced enough for the tire to touch the chainstay. It can be done but I would only recommend it in very specific cases.

@philmccavity The captions will give you some insight as well. I'm glad you found it informative.

@@CM-no3op Si, las topline era un gran cambio para BH. Entrando en un mercado más mundial. Con la fórmula de cannondale, horquilla de acero y cuadro de aluminio.

So, I think you hit on the biggest drawback of this frame. Its not to say you cant run bigger than 35 but weighted on rough terrain is a different story. In that situation the likelihood that you knock the rim slightly out of alignment is fairly high and with a tire clearance that close, immediately you are rubbing the inside of the chainstay for sure. I like the frame a lot but for me I see its optimum use more towards lighter touring. For rough terrain you just cant beat a bigger footprint and this frame wont get you there unfortunately. Hope that helps.

@@TheUndeadMechanic Thank you very much for your advice, I'll consider it for sure! Maybe a Surly Disc trucker would be better for my needs

@@DavideStocco dont forget the kona sutra

@@TheUndeadMechanic But... Would it be a bad idea to try installing 650b tires and thus allowing for a greater tire width? Do you think it could work on this frame?

@@DavideStocco in this particular case, i think not really. Just because the rationale for using a 650, as i see it, would be that the chain stays widen as it gets closer to the dropout. So a wheel of lesser diameter in theory puts you further from the narrower part of the stays and the BB and the brake bridge. However it puts you closer to the end of the dimpled area of the chain stay which is the widest opening and means you really arent gaining the width that you need. Mentioning all this, i didnt try it so I cant say for certain it wouldn't get you what you are looking for. A little background. I was building fixed gears when people were obsessed with tight fits and realized that its impractical. Everything you run over gets stuck in the gap and can create an issue. Then i saw it in muddy situations where it causes clumping and blockage. So while i do love the ability of a builder to stick to tight tolerances, too tight is just overkill. Unless of course the bike is strictly for the velodrome. Hope that helps.

Not my first choice for every build but one of the top contenders for sure.

@@paulhubwro282o no blasting at all. Fiber wheel and then abrasives.

@@johnsheetz6639 Thank you for the kind words. Look up BLB. Brick lane bikes in the UK. This model is nice when paired with bmx stems because they have a significant rise. They are also quite wide. I wouldn't use them for seriously hard riding as they dont not have the cross bar to add strength but for a commuter I would figure them tough enough. Hope that helps.

8 spd claris is a fine way to go. Now they make high range 8spd cassettes so you could even go 1X if you wanted. Wheels are becoming an issue as most manufacturers have abandoned quick release skewers. I have been mounting my own wheels for most projects now and that gives me the ability to chose exactly what I prioritize for the wheelset. Cost, durability, lightness tailored to the project.

Thank you.

@dorianblue4229 I see your point on most issue here but this bike will not be carried on the shoulder at any point. The owner specifically does not like hike a bike type routes so this will not see any terrain where that would be necessary. The other point, as to english Rando's being the real predecessor to gravel, I think you and I have a different view on what gravel means. For me when I see gravel events they are timed competitions so speed is of the utmost importance. Gravel has veered from being associated with bikepacking or adventuring and is now a sport like cyclocross. The bikes are very light and aerodynamic which are the priorities of a race bike not a tourer or randdoneur. Secondly I could not draw a straight line between the British randos and gravel without first crossing through MTB and cyclocross. So much of frame design, riding technic, tire design was pulled from MTB to create gravel that I would say without MTB gravel wouldn't exist.