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Thanks for the encouraging words. It's always good to know that the intended purpose was achieved.

If it was this color, it must have been this bike, seeing as it is custom.

Not very interesting really. Just a small oversight. 43's were the original intention on this build, but after further discussion with the client, we settled on the 50's. My original notes had not been updated, hence the error. I strive to be as accurate as possible. Thanks for the keen eye. The correction has been made.

@philmccavity The captions will give you some insight as well. I'm glad you found it informative.

@@CM-no3op Si, las topline era un gran cambio para BH. Entrando en un mercado más mundial. Con la fórmula de cannondale, horquilla de acero y cuadro de aluminio.

So, I think you hit on the biggest drawback of this frame. Its not to say you cant run bigger than 35 but weighted on rough terrain is a different story. In that situation the likelihood that you knock the rim slightly out of alignment is fairly high and with a tire clearance that close, immediately you are rubbing the inside of the chainstay for sure. I like the frame a lot but for me I see its optimum use more towards lighter touring. For rough terrain you just cant beat a bigger footprint and this frame wont get you there unfortunately. Hope that helps.

@@TheUndeadMechanic Thank you very much for your advice, I'll consider it for sure! Maybe a Surly Disc trucker would be better for my needs

@@DavideStocco dont forget the kona sutra

@@TheUndeadMechanic But... Would it be a bad idea to try installing 650b tires and thus allowing for a greater tire width? Do you think it could work on this frame?

@@DavideStocco in this particular case, i think not really. Just because the rationale for using a 650, as i see it, would be that the chain stays widen as it gets closer to the dropout. So a wheel of lesser diameter in theory puts you further from the narrower part of the stays and the BB and the brake bridge. However it puts you closer to the end of the dimpled area of the chain stay which is the widest opening and means you really arent gaining the width that you need. Mentioning all this, i didnt try it so I cant say for certain it wouldn't get you what you are looking for. A little background. I was building fixed gears when people were obsessed with tight fits and realized that its impractical. Everything you run over gets stuck in the gap and can create an issue. Then i saw it in muddy situations where it causes clumping and blockage. So while i do love the ability of a builder to stick to tight tolerances, too tight is just overkill. Unless of course the bike is strictly for the velodrome. Hope that helps.

Not my first choice for every build but one of the top contenders for sure.

@@paulhubwro282o no blasting at all. Fiber wheel and then abrasives.

@@johnsheetz6639 Thank you for the kind words. Look up BLB. Brick lane bikes in the UK. This model is nice when paired with bmx stems because they have a significant rise. They are also quite wide. I wouldn't use them for seriously hard riding as they dont not have the cross bar to add strength but for a commuter I would figure them tough enough. Hope that helps.

8 spd claris is a fine way to go. Now they make high range 8spd cassettes so you could even go 1X if you wanted. Wheels are becoming an issue as most manufacturers have abandoned quick release skewers. I have been mounting my own wheels for most projects now and that gives me the ability to chose exactly what I prioritize for the wheelset. Cost, durability, lightness tailored to the project.

Thank you.

@dorianblue4229 I see your point on most issue here but this bike will not be carried on the shoulder at any point. The owner specifically does not like hike a bike type routes so this will not see any terrain where that would be necessary. The other point, as to english Rando's being the real predecessor to gravel, I think you and I have a different view on what gravel means. For me when I see gravel events they are timed competitions so speed is of the utmost importance. Gravel has veered from being associated with bikepacking or adventuring and is now a sport like cyclocross. The bikes are very light and aerodynamic which are the priorities of a race bike not a tourer or randdoneur. Secondly I could not draw a straight line between the British randos and gravel without first crossing through MTB and cyclocross. So much of frame design, riding technic, tire design was pulled from MTB to create gravel that I would say without MTB gravel wouldn't exist.

I like the tidiness of it. Nothing left dangling in the wind.

Thanks. Agreed. This is what I have arrived at trying to meet clients needs on a budget. Rather than listening to all the marketing telling you that you need a carbon frame and at least a 1x 12 or 2x11 to have fun. Now there are plenty 8 and 9 speed hi range options.

Thank you

Thanks. And keen eye as usual. Thats the beauty of using the soma fork as an upgrade. The bike originally came with a 1" threaded fork, but we upgraded to the soma, which is 1" ahead and comes with the canti posts and accesory braze-ons. The client specifically wanted the wide drop bars so the 31.8 clamp stem was necessary, so that is the only adapter in the steering setup.

@@TheUndeadMechanic I would never say that that fork is aftermarket, it fits perfectly. 1" threadedless forks seems to be the best standard for ATB riding and would like to see it on more new bikes. Many love quills because of looks and tradition and no need for steerer cutting but noone talks about their potential to catastrophically fail if the main bolt brakes which isnt isnt the case on 1" steerer and it isnt as stiff as a 1 1/8

I cant say off hand. I have been waiting to get the bike back in to double check. It was either 26mm or 26.6mm but I cant remember now. I will update when I see the bike again.

@@TheUndeadMechanic thanks! I found a 26.6 post and it fits nicely so I think it might be the right size :)

Agreed. Too much open space. But with the addition of the right frame bag👌🏼

@@TheUndeadMechanic frame bag would fill it up tastefully!

Can't say I rode it enough to find out. It was the right size for the client but too small for me. I haven't looked into it enough but this maybe a bit of an under appreciated frame. BH wasn't really known for producing great frames in this era, but the aluminum toplines were a departure from what they had been producing.

700 x 42c

@@TheUndeadMechanic bike size?

@angel_kandani it's a 53cm tall, and if memory serves me correct, 49cm tall. So I treat it as as 53cm, or an M on the small side. This is typical of touring frames of the 90's. Well thought out really. Makes climbing over the toptube less of an issue even after hours in the saddle. However it does necessitate a stem or bars with a significant rise to compensate. Hope that answers your question.

@@TheUndeadMechanic thanksyou! 🫶

The frame was originally black and had many chips from years of use, so we repainted the frame. So the paint was restored and then built up not exactly as factory but more to respect the look of the era. The derailleurs are the most modern of all the components except for tires and chain.

Notice in advance. This was an adaptation because the client had already purchased the groupset. I revised what was mounted and it is a 180mm front with a 160mm in the back. You should consider: your weight, what type of tires, surface you will mainly ride, if you will be carrying weight, and what type of riding. In our case, the rider is of average weight and on mostly dirt trails with the tires we have mounted in a relaxed touring style. Also I can't vouche for any other mounts other than the ones that were used on this build. The tolerances are tight but there is no interference. If surly says 160mm, I would generally stick to their recommendations. Also this may void any frame guarantee offered by surly so choose wisely.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 can't say that was my original intention, but I'm glad it works for you. I just didn't want to ruin the shop sounds with narration, but I did want to be able to describe what's happening and why.

@@TheUndeadMechanic Works great for me 😁👍

Thanks for the kind words. I do try my best to understand the client's taste and deliver a concept that I think aligns with what they want and is tasteful.

Thanks. I guess the process of defining the desired final use, the back and forth with the client, helps to make that idea clearer such that all that is left is to put it into words. Which sometimes, I do a decent job.

Agreed. That orange really is eye-catching in the good way.

Glad you found it informative. I feel like small spanish frame builders are unduly underrepresented in the vintage circles so my motivation is to shed more light.

@@TheUndeadMechanic Definitely. I love the the hourglass seatstays. I wish that they had made their own logo, I think they are unfairly categorized as fake Cinellis. Where did you find all of your information on Contini? I am trying to do more reading on the brand.

@Jkl158 This was my point in the video. People just get stuck on the branding and don't even bother seeing the quality and innovation, unfortunately. It's very similar to zeus. Many people just categorize zeus as campy knock offs but that is disregarding so much innovation and skill. There isn't much info on contini out there, but biased conjecture. Most of the people that i have encountered that write them off just as cinelli copies are incapable of telling good craftsmanship from bad and therefore blindly rely on branding for their understanding of quality so for them its more of a betrayal.

@@TheUndeadMechanicdo you know what kind of tubing Contini used when they used their own tubing decal?

That it's a Bianchi that is not celeste or that it is fixed?🤣

Yes, that's definitely a drawback for the IGH for the general consumer. For that reason exactly I usually encourage a good tire with antipuncture belt to help avoid the frequency of those occurrences.

@@TheUndeadMechanic I have no experience with IGH so far but I assume most of the hassle stops with the less cool option of vertical drops, no hub brake and a chaintensioner?

@oreocarlton3343 The coaster brake is the main hassle really. And that's on a single speed coaster as well. Other than that the pull chain is easily separated, replaced and adjusted. The weight is also an issue though.

For the threads on the streer I would consider it a good habit. Grease only if you don't have some anti-seize. I didnt in this case because this headset had already been mounted on this streerer and had a layer of grease going. On the headset bearings I've seen manufacturers that strictly advise to not grease and have pulled apart many BB and headsets from factory that aren't greased so I determined that in theory grease is for friction of moving parts. The outer and inner races are not supposed to move. If the race is moving inside the cup that easily you have an issue and grease will not fix it so basically the grease is irrelevant. Also the grease usually works its way out of the bearing anyway so it's auto greased🤣

@@TheUndeadMechanic interesting take on non greasing the sealed bearing, doesn't the option of non greasing often result in sized bearings like in hubs? I'm assuming that greasing the outer race won't result in the bearing spinning on it since in a working bearing there is less friction between inner and outer race than between greased outer and a bearing cup...the advice against greasing outer races might be there to not contaminate the bearing seals or OEM bearing grease?

@oreocarlton3343 just to be clear, it's the cup to outer race interference that I do not grease and I have had only one instance were the race had seized to the cup. And in that case the oxidation was all over regardless of the where the grease was because this bike was oitside by the ocean. If I were in a salty tropical climate I may do otherwise.

@@TheUndeadMechanic how about the hubs, siezed bearing there seem more messy than in a headset

Ha, good read. I had mentioned that exactly to the client, but the client is fixated on adapting a brompton bag😅

Yes. Agreed. I really like supporting the old Japanese brands that keep putting out high quality products at decent prices. Someone mentioned the stem and headset and that sparked the same conversation during the premiere.

Not a bad idea. These clamps have a rubberized coating on the clamping surface so the paint is protected but yes an inner tube could provide even more bite without harming the paint.

It's the factory bar made by nitto.

Thanks. The easiest thing to do is just maintain the middle chainring if you are starting from a triple. The middle chainring on the old school triples usually being anywhere from 34 to 38. The middle chainring wont be all that great at retaining the chain given it was designed specifically to help the chain climb and descend from the other chainrings, however. If you want "no drop" running you should get a narrow wide chainring and space the Bottom bracket for the correct chainline. hope that helps.

Thanks all sorted with XT hollowtech and absolute black narrow wide ring. One other thing, which headset or rather what size did you use? There’s various available on eBay but I’m looking at the XT 1”.

@benloten7182 if size you mean diameter, that is dictated by the frame. The inner diameter of the headtube will differ depending on the standard that was used from factory. 1" fits 1". Oversize is meant for oversize which is 1 1/8. And super oversize is meant for super oversize and there is no swapping between the three. If you are talking about stack, that's another issue.

@@TheUndeadMechanic it’s a minefield. 🤣😂

SL-M10-R

Elegant would not necessarily be my first choice in adjectives but I definitely agree, desirable. The logo types and color combinations managed to ride the line between eye catching yet tasteful without veering into overstated and gaudy.

@@TheUndeadMechanic cool would be a better word

@@oreocarlton3343 most definitely

Nice. Good info. The frame came to me without seat post, so I overlooked that detail. Good to know. Bet that had something to do with the externally butted tubing.