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A lot of that depends on the climate you're in. In NZ the climate is not extreme enough for the benefits to outweigh the installation and running costs. These are essentially filtered fresh air systems, with heat from a roof space being a side benefit that some houses can enjoy if they have a roof that gets lots of sun.

Using 150mm ducting is suitable for your system if it is properly installed and avoids sharp bends. Calculate your airflow requirements of 30 L/sec in the lounges and 15 L/sec in each bedroom. If total airflow is under 120 L/sec, you are well within the capacity of 150 mm ducting and fan pressure. Note that the filter is the highest pressure resistant in your system, affecting airflows more than ducting size.

The rate if the air flow is very low when it's cold outside. It can make the house a little cooler bit it's a worthwhile trade off.

Because the house will be drier the heating doesn't need to work at full capacity to heat the house. Most system will regulate the amount of air entering the rooms when the temp. drops

The back window doesn't have any bars. The side windows do. Got a quote for over a 1000 to get bars for the back window so I didn't go ahead with it.

Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I tried to keep it neutral and informative. It's someone's tragedies after all. I also think the electrician has suffered enough and doesn't need to be named. You should check out my loose neutral video.

The building was just doing building work. This dangerous situation was created by the electrician.

We used to use that type of cable

The entire NZ safety regime is built on the idea that at least 2 faults must be present for danger to arise. I'm not sure what's to disagree with in that. Redundancy in safety reduces the chances of harm occurring.

​@@legacyelectrical I don't disagree with the 2 faults model, I disagree with applying the Swiss Cheese analogy for it as it's usually many levels beyond 2.

@@AlanTheBeast100 I think it's a useful way to think about it. I talked about at least 3 layers.

@@legacyelectrical Oki-dokey - not here to argue that fine point. Indeed I'd rather dissect specific things that prevent injury (and why/how they work) than focus on a word to describe the process. (Another thing that might have saved that fellow here: hot to ground is only 120V. Still nasty - but 1/2 the current for a given resistive path). Recently extended a circuit in my home garage. Recent code change here is that concrete floored area sockets must be on a GFCI'd circuit (RCD to you). Fortunately you can get sockets that provide GFCI and the function for all devices downstream of that socket.

ya i threw it on 2x playback

check out my deadly fault video. I think I retitled it Loose neutral fault explained.

​@@legacyelectrical I liked that video much better! I think if you start doing electrical accident reviews this channel could really take off. I binge watch the hell out that stuff for aviation, nuclear, industrial, cave diving... seems like it could work for electrical too.

I binge watch those videos too. I have been thinking about that. Not sure how many accidents there are to cover or how easy it is to find info on them. My biggest problem is not having free time.

Yeah, I'll try and find a quieter way. I was using an elgato pedal. You'd think being a lice streaming product that it would be designed to not be heard.

It was standard practice 25 years ago in NZ and only became illegal here 15 years ago

@@legacyelectrical that is extremely scary. I would be checking every time I opened a bix

@@forresta65 yeah, it's nuts. And sparkies even defend the way they used to do it... "they were doing the best with what they had at the time and it was fine because they tested their work".

So agree! Makes no sense at all.....

Yeah could do. You mean about the wiring we do for tiny houses?

@@legacyelectrical interested to know about earthing premade sandwich panel as I seen a few with nothing earthed and some only self tap screws bonded. Cheers

@@whatacoolguy4094 We've only just started doing the sandwich panel ones. We earth the trailer/metal frame they sit on. I also do the metal framing with a self tapping screw but that's additional to the bolt. I'll try and do a video about one.

Is there a bigger one than my one? I've been really liking this one.

The one in my video really strikes me as home made. I guess they'd didn't have 3 core cable back then, or at least it wasn't common, so maybe this was a manufacturervs solution and not a technician's solution.

@@legacyelectricalthat panel circuit looks absolutely DIY, but the panel does not (embossed text?). Maybe it was a replacement? Maybe home-brew ideas leaked into the factory, or factory ideas leaked into home-brew? No idea. But it is a neat trick. 2 different alarm signals over just 2 wires with just a couple of passive components.

Yeah, it's really cool. Especially since it's so basic.

I'm preferring the Milwaukee one. It's got way more space than I need, but the organization is great and the extra space is handy.

Is the quality in the Milwaukee good like Klein? I am looking at the 48 pocket Klein bag for my work, I do lots of climbing and carry heavy tools for my trade.

Yeah, it's very robust

Yeah, pretty cool. I don't know if my 25k views video impressed them. I think they were just doing a big promotion and I happened to find out and apply.

​@@legacyelectricala random promotion makes sense Because I have never been able to get any name brand Tool Manufacturer to send me tools for videos or Testing.. But you did a great job. I Been told by most Manufacturers they want to see 50k to 80k views per video and a minimum of 10k subscribers. Which is dumb because 90 percent of views on any channel is From Non subscribers. I have over a million views and that matters but Not in the way it should to these Manufacturers.. appreciate the conversation and reply.

Yeah, they ran FB ads about this promotion so I applied. I should have applied to review the SDS drill too. Maybe there's just too many channels of your size asking this so the cost would be too big if they said yes to all of them. Might be worth it for the marketing anyway though.

@@legacyelectrical aww that makes sense Very cool that Facebook application ads really do work.

I don't know that brand at all. I've realised how much drill brands are a fashion or fad. It just depends what's popular in a region, not what's good value and quality. But honestly, all of these drills are so good that I think it's just a question of slightly better or worse.

​@@legacyelectricalthe Flex Turbo Drill is Not just a bit better Its a Ton Better then The Bosch it's a powerhouse if you think that Bosch is impressive then the Flex Will blow you away.

They're so good now that it's just a question of one being slightly better than another

I disagree

😅

I bought it 2nd hand for way cheaper

small, house, not allowed to enclose the deck, so we put in some bistro blinds. Mostly to stop wind and make it a bit warmer.

Have your tried testing it with a multimeter to see if one of the pins is different from a good battery?

So I opened the case and found 1 of the pins wasn’t alignment properly. I realigned it and it charged for a few minutes, and then back to the same problem. I’ve tried jumping it and it still won’t charge. I’m getting about 18v out of b+ and b-, and 10k out of b+ and th with the thermistor check. 2 lights show when I press the button. Tools still work as well. I’ve tried a 20v tool and a 60v tool. It just won’t charge.

@@tmuney08sounds different from my fault. Mine would only run some tools such as a torch but wouldn't run power tools and wouldn't charge. Did the pin bend back maybe?

This property already has Rcds. RCDs don't protect you from this kind of fault. This is because the fault is before the rcd and any fault current doesn't create imbalance for the rcd tor detect.

If it's not tripping and you have light then what's wrong?

I have no idea how that would work for a single phase installation. Are you thinking of 3 phases installations?

Here I was thinking this was a rare fault and my video wouldn't help anyway. I ended up redoing it with chopped pieces of pvc electrical trunking. The silicone jn thr pc keeps shifting causing it to stop working again.

Thankyou for the video, just fixed my 6amp with a washer. @@legacyelectrical

You're not allowed to do a TT (earth rod only) system here. The MEN link (main earth neutral link) in the switchboard board (consumer unit) makes sense to me. You can remove thr MEN link to do some kinds of testing for example.

@@legacyelectrical If you're not allowed TT only, how did you fit EV chargers when they first came out and there was no Open N/E detector available. In UK we had to put them on a TT (No TN allowed) to avoid the risk of making the car live due to a broken PEN (Protective earth and neutral) . Putting the N/E link in the fuse box seems so much more dangerous coz you are adding at least 3 more opportunities to have a open neutral. 1/ Tails from the Head. 2/ Tails into the meter. 3/ Tails out of the meter 4/ Tails in and out of an Isolator. 5/ Tails into the main switch. 6/ Connection - Switch to the Neutral bar. All those risk points could be eliminated by linking them in the Head. At the end of the day; while the risk of electric shock is sever, more people die from fires caused by poor connections and arching than they do from shock. Keep up the good work in spreading the word. Also it's a good tip to check the main earth with clamp meter to look for diverted neutral current before merrily working on an installation.

@@geraldelwood9660 If you loose the neutral to the installation all metal appliances will become live, not just your car. Why pick on the car as something that should be protected from this kind of fault? Yeah, measuring current in the main earth is a good move. When I do inspections I like to check that. In the UK do you guys run a separate earth conductor from outside of the property? I guess that would reduce the number of places that you can have a hot connection develop as the main earth doesn't have current running through it (orindarily), at least not enough to make a hot connection. Yeah, I think you're right, fires from loose connections are a bigger threat. I'm surprised how well this video has done. I'm glad it's useful and potentially life saving information.

@@legacyelectrical I think the reasoning for no PME for EV chargers is that in the future there will be millions of cars, some of which will be plugged in while being washed by owner. Like this, there is a far lower resistance to earth than someone standing in dry shoes on a dry carpet on wooden floor .... Hence tragedy of lady with outside tap. I have felt for long time that it should be in building Regs that any outside tap must be supplied by at least a 30cm section of plastic pipe - eliminating any "earth" potential on the metal tap. We have 3 main earthing systems : TT; TNS; TNCS (PME) TNS has a supplier's earth - (the casing of the concentric incomer). The main earth is strapped to this and goes to an earth block, at which point the householder takes responsibility. (Max Ze 0.8) With a TNCS there are just the 2 conductors to the supplier's Head / Cut-out. The Main earth originates from the neutral in the Head and again goes to the main earth block. (Max Ze 0.35) We have to install an earth rod if the Ze is above the supplier's Max. Also if the property is a setup to isolate from the grid to tun in Island mode (prosumer).. In the latest Regs we are now advised to earth to the foundations in all cases as a back-up to PME supply. Due to increasing cases of open PEN (protective earth neutral) as our grid ages and falls apart 😀

Ok, so TNCS sounds like what we have. There are only 2 wires coming in front the street (if its single phase). But unlike there, every house must have an earth rod. The wire coming from the earth rod is run into the earth bar and the bar is linked to the neutral bar. We don't have to test the earth resistance in the earth mass, just the wire thsy runs from it to the switchboard. I see what you mean. Washing a charging car definitely has extra risk. We just have RCD protection for all our chargers. It's hot written into law yet, but the guidelines are to install 6ma dc rcd protection. Best to follow the guidelines since if someone goes wrong and your name comes up, saying 'it wasn't law' won't sound good.

How does single phase center tap work. Surely you can't earth the center taps off 3 different phases.

@@legacyelectrical they take one of the three phases, and feed a transformer with a center tapped secondary. then they connect the center tap to the earth reference. that gives us two phases at 120V to ground and 240V phase to phase. then we run our high load circuits at 240V and our general circuits at 120V. takes more copper than running all circuits at 240V, but we've always had a good supply of copper; and in exchange, if a person gets shocked, it's usually just an annoyance.

But then how do you earth the 2 phase set up? I think I need see some diagrams. We wore out transformers in star and the center of the star is neutral and ground. What happens if another gpase gets a ground fault to the earth which is linked to a center tap of another phase?

The Klein one has that issue. The milwaukee one doesn't.

Thanks. That's definitely worth noting. I think a big issue is the method of connection too. A lug and bolt connection wouldn't have this problem.

Yeah it's like the opposite of cathodic protection

What, you think everyone already understands loose neutral faults?

What country are you in? What system of earthing do they use there?

Yes, they won't help here. I think I'll do a video on this.

Yeah, the hole house RCD thing sounds smart. Are they 150ma or something? The trouble with a TT system is it can't relied on to trip an overload device under fault conditions. RCDs would work though.

@@legacyelectrical The French have a DP 300ma and 500ma main RCBOs provided by the supplier. So it is the last line of attack after the local RCD/RCB devices. Search Utube: _EV CHARGER INSTALLATION PEN FAULT PROTECTION USING MATT:E Connection units_ This is re: EV charger combating the lost neutral problem in TN-CS earthing. Can be applied to the whole whole, if someone makes one. It uses a contactor to switch out the earth to system. As I wrote, a TT system with a _foundation concrete earth rod_ (using the house foundations) or a soil earth rod (many rods around the house), that can be retrofitted, will solve the problem. The accident with the girl in Australia was because the earth rod was not substantial enough. If the earth was connected to the house slab and its rebar - _foundation earthing_ - it would not have happened. It is all down to suppliers saving money on over/underground earth cables.

@@legacyelectrical RCD/RCBOs are mandatory on TT systems in the UK.

@johnburns4017 I'm in NZ, we're not allowed to do different systems

@@legacyelectrical So you only hope is if some manufacturer does a whole house device working on the principles of the voltage monitoring EV charger.

The only way to protect against this fault is to turn all the power off for the installation when it's detected. I think a good way to do that is to measure voltage and if it gets too low shut the the power off and get an electrician out.

Yeah, a sledge hammer has more grunt power.

super dangerous

Both countries need to revise their regs. Every circuit must be RCD protected. Devices that leaks a lot of current must be on a dedicated circuits each protected by an RCBO instead of RCCB+MCB to avoid nuisance tripping. In France and the UK every circuit must be RCD protected.

@@IAmThe_RA in Australia every circuit 20 amps and below must be RCD protected and all circuits that are for lights or socket outlets

@@Sparky_D I mean every circuit regardless of current it draws should be RCD protected. That's not the case in NZ based on some videos i watched, no idea about Aus. And the M.E.N should be ditched. Neutral and Earth connection should take place on the supply authority side (preferably before the meter like in the UK). So when the main neutral in the distribution board is broken it won't be as much of a danger although the RCDs are useless in this scenario. And Earth resistivity test must be conducted to determine how long or how many electrodes are needed and to make sure that enough current will able to flow through the electrode(s) and trip the MCB or burn the fuse due to over current.

@@IAmThe_RA NZ and Aus use the same set of standards, with a few little things listed as particular to one country or the other. I agree we should have RCD's on everything. We do have requirements for earth resistance testing