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I really like this Lyman reloading gear. I've been using the AA8 turret press and I've been thinking about the Victory press for reloading rifle ammo. It's just solid handloading gear.

Great video!!!❤

AFAIK Lyman #2 alloy is BHN 16 which would be much lower than 45k psi. That is the alloy stated in the loading manual at 7:40. So lyman beleives their alloy is capable of higher pressures.

An expensive hardness tester, or the "fingernail" test are not required to determine lead hardness. All you need to do is research pencil testing lead and an inexpensive staedtler pencil set. Write the numbers inside the front cover of the pencil set case and carry on testing.

My priest told me that polishing my forcing cone would result in blindness.

Did you ever try those powder coated bullets? I found you from your bench set up videos great info really appreciate it. 👍

I have an sig 220 the forcing cone” the area against the case lip it’s sharp and likes to cut into my powder coat if I seat against it. I don’t like it. I wanna round it off or taper it a bit more I don’t like the extreme sharp edge. I’d like to lap it but it may be nitrided.

I ran into this issue about a mo th ago when i first trying out the priming system on my lyman all american 8 press. I got the exact same results a flush mounted primer. Same as others the set screw on the priming system for the punch kept coming lose and did shoot out on me once almost twice. I noticed to that using the lee shell holders theres alot of slop between the shell and the holder itself on the down stroke when using resizing. Is the lyman shell holder tighter than the lee or just as sloppy?

Is this in .44 Spcl ? ☆

One way to avoid lead deposits is to use a coated bullet. The coating is a polymer coating and not a powder coating which wears out the barrel at an alarming rate. I use these polymer bullets and I don’t have any smoke. After Shooting and I come home and check out my gun, the barrel is perfectly clean and shiny, so is the forcing cone. There is some carbon buildup in the throat of the cylinder of a revolver. Before leaving the range, I run a snake through the barrel and the cylinder, which removes any carbon buildup whatsoever. After coming home. I still clean my revolver with Hoppes solevent. It only 20:49 coat them with powder which also results in not getting any lead buildup. One thing I noticed is that my gun shoots better dirty then when it’s clean. Normally I clean my revolver after 300 rounds fired through it and that takes me between 20 & 30 minutes. Lastly if you use hard cast lead bullets you will have far less buildup. Lead is very soft. If you have that much buildup after 50 rounds then your lead is too soft or else your load is too hot. If you want to avoid unessary work then buy hard cast coated bullets. From the amount of shooting that you seem to be doing, it is not worth a cleaning effort after shooting just 50 bullets. You’re only saving a couple pennies. buying coated. Bullets is more profitable and less time consuming and damage to your gun. Hope this helps you. Oh polymer is the BEST coating. Period.

Thanks for painstakingly showing the subtle differences in each brand of shell holder!

You need to powder coat and gas check

44 special offers more power at less pressure. I have a Charter 3" with self carved grips, something that most production guns can't match. Single action is no measure of a self defense firearm. Packability, grip, and size are more important.

Joshua

Outstanding work brither where is your chrustian group at or forum?

Clutter? No, that's "good stuff we must keep just in case!" LOL

Ambidextrous.... ambi-dex-truss..... NOT 😃😄ambi-dext-ree-us...😃

You can adjust the primer punch upward by simply loosening its set screw and allowing the spring to raise it up a little while keeping your finger over the top to keep it from flying off. It's easier to do this with the whole primer feed system removed from the press. Don't let the punch go too high, thought, or it won't have enough clearance to fit back into the primer feed body.

Compared to my priming your holder looks a little low. But mind wasn't sliding all that well. The LYMAN PRESSES are robust and built well. Lyman holders are nice. d

How about a video of the actual priming a shell process

Very insightful video, thanks! One aspect I missed was lighting setup for the bench. It would be nice to know if you simply rely on ambiant room light, or if there are specific use cases for additional lighting you might have found.

New Sub for ya . Great video brother. I have several calibers and reload for a long time but I have never had a revolver. I have always wanted a 44mag/Special though as its such a versatile round. I have understood the forcing cone gap for a long time and thought about it a lot as well. This was well explained for any folks new to revolvers.

MC just denoted the type of wheel that the weight will clip on to. Loving this video. Good content.

7.62x39 Soviet! Not rimmed. .312” bore.

WHERE YA BEEN BUDDY???❤

I can’t get it to feed the primers, in my American 8. They come flying out, from the horizontal spring thing.

Yes bullet spring-back does exist and it has a correlation to bullet hardness. Great job!

A soft lead bullet will obfuscate ( the pressure of firing will push the rear of the bullet using friction within the rifling to expand the rear of the bullet to seal on the barrel rifling) when fired from the chamber to the barrel. You don't really need to be tight in the chamber. If an unfired bullet falls at least partially into the forcing cone the force behind it will push the diameter of soft lead outward when fired. I prefer to use an Alox lube over the entire bullet on soft lead instead of a beeswax to deal with leading. I use this method on a marlin 44 lever with microgroove rifling. It tightens up cast bullet groups in a rifle that usually frustrates people.

The ALM designates the clip is made for an aluminum wheel which is thicker

A longer seating ram on the priming arm would fix the shell holder issue.

My Zastava M70 Zpap has a 314 bore as well

I have to ask what load did you settle on? do you have any other thoughts hear a few years later?

Hey thanks this was a great video

I was considering getting this press. That primer feed is kinda copied from a CH 444 press I’ve had for decades. I use CH , RCBS , and Lee shell holders. Either way I could probably keep priming on my CH 444 press. I just wanted a bigger press for Magnum rifle cartridges. Good video. 👍

Thanks for this video. Myself also being long time automotive tech, am used to this but I'm sure this will really help others that don't sort castings by temperatures. Great explanations with detail.

Thanks for this video! A great help for my castings. That chart makes it real quick, easy and simple, for starting points. Anybody that has ever experienced a "leaded barrel" will never make that mistake again! Fast speeds do not always equal the best performance or accuracy.

If I shoot a revolver most of the time it's one of t 44s

i am building a 24ft x 24 ft 2 door air conditioned garage, its going to be my gun workshop, i also have a 250 yard range on my land. The reloading bench will be about 23 feet long. Dream come true. I started in a little closet 15 years ago in my apartment.

I used lewis lead remover to clean my forcing cone and barrel land and grooves.

Hi there and many thanks for your wonderful information's ( abd easy to understand . But i have question if you can help me with please !?! Im trying to make a gun at home . Have very nice barrel ready to make a hole fit to 7.92×57 ( 8mm) Mauser bullet . Now , im just wondering how big is the diameters of the barrel should be ??? Because if it is going to be exact dize of actual bullet ( 8mm) ! Then it wont have any room inside the barrel to move !!! And if i take slightly wider than bullet , then it would allow the gaz pass true the side of bullet and eventually affect the power of bullet . So im confused a bit . But you must remember that i cant make an expention barrel as I don't have much modern equipments . If you could please help me with my project , i will be thanks full . Thank you mate . 👍

Exactly the reason I hand prime on an ancient (70s) Lee Autoprime. ALWAYS below flush.

VERY GOOD ILLUSTRATIONS AND EXPLANATION.

Nice but painfully slow. Been powder coating bullets for abot 7 years now. Here's what i learned to do very early on. Use a #5 plastic container, it builds static much quicker and no need for BBs. I dump a tea spoon of quality powder coat, 150 or so bullets in the container, shake for 20-30 seconds. I then dump them all out on a hardware cloth tray, bake for 15 minutes 325 degrees. Pull out dump in buck of water if im doing 1000 or so and don't want to wait fot them to cool for next batch. They come out 98 percent covered and maybe a few stuck together but they separate easy with a tap. If your looking for photo shoots tweezers and 30 at a time work, for mass quantities, perfectly functional coated and short time, dump them in a pile on harware cloth. Check out Elvis reloading, he has some pointers. Nice video.

I applaud you for towing the linevwith rhe L.E. Willson trimmer. I have 3, are very accurate and nice trim. I since learned this; caliber specific expensive holders and two types per caliber, slow. There are far better, faster and in some cases much cheaper trimmers options today that will also chamfer, deburr and trim in one take. Think tri-way trimmer and the like. If this works for you great. For me after 25 years of painfully slow trimming, I just couldn't see using that trimmer any longer. It's great for for 20-50 a batch, but not for any larger batches for me. Nice video.

Check you bullet to cylinder bore fit, might be loose and leaving lead on the cone.

I've found that using a 'Birchwood Casey' lead remover and polishing cloth does a good job of removing leading. _If you keep up with it._ I don't know what's in those cloths, but they sure do work, and they're thick enough to use between an angled tool and the cone without tearing the cloth apart.

The cylinder timing and alignment is what centers the bullet, not the free play in the cylinder notches and the bullet bouncing off the forcing cone. The cone is there to compensate for misalignment and to help prevent shaving and leading. Once that bullet leaves the cylinder throat it will hit where ever the cylinder is in relation to the forcing cone. The bullet will not self align.

Good topic for a hot head like myself, thanks.