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Thank you for the kind words and the feedback! I'll definitely keep that in mind for future videos!

Yes, it started its life as an 180 quattro. Only the 2000 model year here in the US were 180hp, 5spd 02m quattros (it was before the 225 was released). As far as the coil packs, they're GM LS2 coil packs. The pinout is exactly the same so I just hardwired them in - the ECU doesn't know the difference!

Like wise man! Your work and skill has always motivated and influenced my ambitions, which is also why I'm stoke to see you sharing your projects soon too!!

🤣🤣🤣 miss you man!!

🙏🏼🙏🏼

🫡🫡🫡

Thank you! The harness bar is from a company in the UK called JP Cages. They also make a 4pt and 6pt cage for the TT.

@@derekneves5111 thank you for the kind words. It means a lot!

@@romeshkulasegaram8452 certainly wouldn't be a bad idea in the future and something that has crossed my mind!

@@lucidworx just about any cooling option offered on a VW Mk4 (golf/GTI/r32, beetle, Jetta) will often work if you can't find anything specific to the TT. I got mine specifically from GrayFab for the platform 🤙🏼🤙🏼

Definitely room in the future for revisions! I do plan to centralize my fuse blocks. I've also looked at cfm meters before, but the good ones are expensive for the limited/niche use I'd have for them!

Thank you for the kind words! Lots of work on the horizon 🫡🫡

@@TheNeverEndingProject Awesome! Would love to do all this to my TT sometime

Are you all stock right now? Either way, feel free to ask any questions! I love this platform 😁

@@TheNeverEndingProject Its on a stage1 tune but nothing else, the dream is big turbo but its my daily so might just do ko4 hybrid :) Thanks, u have an instagram?

I do! It's @the_neverending_project

Absolutely. It was awful to full clean out but it's spotless now.

Hasnt been on the dyno, however based on similar platforms that I have played with that have been dyno'd, Im somewhere in the 400awhp ball park! Ill dyno it eventually to find out for sure.

@@TheNeverEndingProject nice

Noted! I now have a lapel mic (which I got 2 videos from now I believe - running through a backlog), and I am working towards a stabilization solution. I also changed editing software and relearning, so I'm challenging myself on improving greatly! I really appreciate your feedback, thank you!

I appreciate it! I've never had it dyno'd, but based on playing with cars that had been, I am in the ballpark of 400whp! Side note, life has been absolutely crazy, but I will be uploading some more content soon!

That's pretty impressive

Thank you! Feel free to check out my Instagram @the_neverending_project if you're at all interested in more details about the progress of the build.

The regular changes are more important than the brand. I use Mobil 1 5W50 in my A3 3.2 from 2004 and it runs like a charm. I was using that oil in every car I had in the past and engines were always in perfect condition. Just change your oil every 10k km (6k miles).

It's a modular intake manifold from Integrated Engineering!

I'm currently running 18x8.5" et35s all the way around.

Not anything as drastic as that. The rest is just a harmonious marriage of parts. The best thing to do is figure out a power goal and purpose (to aim for a certain kind of power band) and the rest is adequately sizing parts for the amount of air you need to flow and fueling. Any other hardware is just to help maintain that kind of power reliably. It may be vague and sounds easy of course, but those are the ultimate basics. The rest all stems from that.

To elaborate a little more, turbos are very sensitive to air restrictions in both the incoming and outgoing air. Restrictions in intake manifold size/designs, charge piping (too many bends, too long, to large or small in diameter) exhaust manifold size/designs, exhaust systems (too small in diameter, too many bends etc) all play a huge role. These are things you have control over and can tailor to meet your needs.

@@TheNeverEndingProject Okay yeah I can understand that If I were to build up my B8 I would keep all of that in mind. So Ultimately I would have to make sure not one part is causing a restriction.

Easier said in theory than in practice, but yes! Every engine type/design has its strengths and weakness. Youll also need to keep in mind what needs to be upgraded internally to handle you power goals and of course fueling and proper tuning to match. Research is key!

I haven't yet. I'll have a new one by car season. This will be the third time I replace that stupid thing. Though I replaced my first one with a 3rd party which never helps. Quality just isn't there.

Currently yes. Mafless tune

@@TheNeverEndingProject Plan on keeping it that way? My tuner and I are working on a 500hp goal and he's recommended that I keep the maf.

I do, yes. Running mafless can be tricky to tune depending on the tuner. You have to be more acquainted with the setup to really get the most of it. Tuning with a maf is also a safer bet as the fueling will be directly influenced by the incoming metered air also making it easier to diagnose leaks (where as mafless will run off a VE table and just run lower on power if leaks are present). MAF tunes also present a restriction when you're looking for optimal performance. There are advantages and disadvantages to both with many variables involved. But for someone looking to get the most out of their setup, mafless is the way to go.

Once I get my ignition figured out, I will be covering data logging and tuning and the basics revolving around it all.

@@TheNeverEndingProject I'm currently having ignition issues at well unfortunately (stuttering at high load/rpm).

I'll have to take a look at that, thanks! I've been looking at fire retardant braided sleeves for the future. They're spendy though!

Being my very first build, I took the innocent approach assuming that if they were supplied with the kit, they were adequate. As time moved forward, though, I found more variables at play that resulted in this happening, but I should have gone with my gut feeling and gone with ARP from the get-go instead of saving a few dollars! Lesson learned lol

That logic makes sense. Came with the kit so it should have done the job. What clutch kit was it btw? And what other circumstances led to the failure?

It was a Clutchmaster FX400 with a 13lbs fidanza aluminum single mass. The main contributions came from the difference in thermal expansion rates between the steel and aluminum and then the excessive vibrations caused at high RPM. So between that and having 225 street tires for the first year after the build, I had zero traction under heavy pulls, so i saw a lot of prolonged high revs between shifts when I drove it hard. All in all, the OEM bolts couldn't handle that.

@@TheNeverEndingProject Nice! I run a Clutch Master FX725 in my TT and I went with ARP bolts and an IE EKAGrip friction disk right off the bat

I should also mention that the tolerances were off on the flywheel which contributed greatly as well. The protrusion on the clutch disk ended up creating a groove on the flywheel which I think I may have pointed out in my very first video. Sucky situation!

Thanks man! I'm running d585 LS2 coilpacks with Honda h22 leads (recrimped for the LS2 coils)

Solid, I will keep that in mind for next time!

Thanks man! If you're also going to run a gtx28 series, you're going to love it! I'm using a factory ECU with a custom Unitronic tune! I do plan on jumping into an AEM pnp stand alone in the future!

Thanks for the positive feedback man! We'll see how things go with the A3, but it may be a good opportunity for a second build/project in the future along side the TT! 😉

@@TheNeverEndingProject Always room for another project.... well apart from rational things like money and time... Ive had to stop myself after getting a golf cabrio and a t4 transporter.. 3 is plenty of projects to be getting on with lol

Definitely lacking the time and money right now...lol. but I have ideas lined up as things continue to fall into place! One project at a time for now! Lol