Видео

Good info. Thx!

I tried to mount the ARB under the truck in a few spots. The most ideal spot is rear driver side like in the KYD video, but I could not fit with my custom bracket made of sheet metal, angle iron, nuts and bolts...a pain and heavy. If you have a welding machine to fabricate your own bracket/holder, then go for it. I ended up mounting mine in the truck bed. I'm glad I did. It stays much cleaner, and it does not get in the way of any truck bed packing when we camp. I'll have to measure the remaining width and height I have on my truck. Mine is a short bed F350, and you have a F450 which by default is long bed. You already have more room to mount things. My friend did his air tank along the side of his truck under the doors. My suggestion for you... Order the 2.5 gallon tank AND the 5 gallon tank from Amazon. They are free returns. See which one fits when you hold it in place. Return the one that doesn't fit. Magic...done!

KYD did the ARB install with custom fabricator. Check out the video starting here. It shows where they mounted it. ruclips.net/video/01hGk3GhfwA/видео.htmlsi=yHxhPiBwimiYk7rW&t=648

I just measure my current tank and remaining room. I would NOT try to fit a 5 gallon on my truck. Go slow motion in my videos and you'll see how close the plugs and lines are to frame rail. Passenger side...maybe 3.5". On the driver side, maybe 4". But again, you have to account for the plugs sticking out of the tank which take room plus leaving a little wiggle room so you can actually make the connection, do maintenance, etc. As for top room, NOTHING left over. I put a plug in the port of the 2.5 gallon tank. Plugs are shorter as it's just a plug. I don't think I could mount the 5 gallon personally. Remember, you're not just fitting the tank. You're also fitting the plugs and ports that go into them and the lines that come out...or ball valve for draining, or safety pressure valve, etc.

@@girouxcampingadventures Thanks. I've seen their video of Viair install, but didn't see the ARB install. I think I'll fabricate bracket like this.

Not sure, I suggest reaching out to Grenergy support. It's possible they have a kit in the making or would like to hear feedback on next conversion kit to make. grenergy-us.com/pages/contact-us

Yes to both. I find lots of stuff that doesn’t make sense on my trailer.

I forwarded the question to Grenergy support.

Glad you liked it!

Glad you enjoyed it! I was nervous about those stud locations...but after all the bumpy driving...still fully attached to the wall with no screws being loose. The secret is NOT making the pilot hole too big.

Good tip. Thx!

I also ordered from shadepro and fished my wire through the hem after I had the awning mounted and aligned. I guess with the wire in that hem changed the tension on that part of the awning and I had to take the screws out of the rail at the top and realign again and til this day my awning rolls tighter on the motor end than on the idler end. I became so frustrated with alignment til I finally just gave up. I will not have another awning with a wire in one end!!

My motor roller arm side always has more tension than the free rolling side. I want to replace both arms and motor because I feel it’s time for a new electric motor. The new arms will also add to efficiency and less strain on the electric motor. Sometimes it seems to almost roll straight, and other times I get the effect you are explaining. My roller shades inside do the same thing. The tip from that vendor is to add pieces of tape on the free rolling side to increase thickness, hence tension. I have not tried that on either roller shade or awning.

Legines 1/4" NPT Female Brass Bulkhead Coupling 1-1/2" Length a.co/d/haLa55Z Different lengths are available so measure first. I ordered the 1-1/2" length as well as the 1/4" length. Based on where I drilled and how much nut caught the thread, I like the longer. I kept the 1-1/2".

You need to have trailer on the scale by itself. That usually means unhitching and leaving trailer on CAT scale while you drive truck off a bit. I put trailer axles on rear weight, then tongue jack on middle weight pad. I then get rear axle and tongue weight of the trailer only!

I figured the same. It would be nice to have the option of ordering back as same color. I use Reflectix too so the white backing on the shades is not needed in my setup. But…they still work and are still hanging solid after lots of bumpy travel roads.

Glad it helped!

Such an awesome place indeed!!

Me too.

No issues so far. Still working great.

There is no spring tension on my setup.

The strap is a deterrent to prevent theft. The idea is, someone sees it and moves on. There are plenty of videos out there with people cutting through cables and other similar contraptions. If a thief wants something, they will get it with the right tools and time.

Next time…

Yes...3 types: gasoline, propane, natural gas.

ha!

Yep, bad guys always find a way.

CR5HSB, this is also stated in your Honda user guide.

Thx!

Thx, glad I did it as the quick connect is such a time saver especially for the BBQ.

I put a sign on the door that says "recording...DO NOT ENTER"

don't have to carry gasoline. I already carry propane tanks on the RV.

2nd pull! You rock! Thx for watching!

half off made my final price $264 (including parts, tax, shipping)

Only four.

Would have made this easier. Easier = not needed.

@@girouxcampingadventures been looking, they do make them, around £500, UK, just got the aivolt 2 weeks ago, if i know about the duel fuel ones, would have got that,

Not sure. Visit the Grenergy website and see if they have a kit.

Awesome. Post some videos.

Copper only in my DC systems: RV solar, inverter and other stuff…plus the truck wiring.

2 Gauge 2 AWG 25 Feet Black + 25 Feet Red Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable Wire - Car, Inverter, RV, Solar a.co/d/9FnsDJl

Thank you

Definitely, then you don't need torque specs listed in manuals. Unfortunately I did this on my 12 year old mountain bike when replacing the front fork. I was attaching the last component...the brakes after doing all the rest of the work (a pain). And sure enough, 1 of the 2 bolt threads stripped but I swear it was not me. I barely applied force. Now I'm stuck with brake bads that constantly rub against disk. I'll need to re-thread...or buy a new bike which is also on my list. It rides good enough...gives me "resistance". I adjust the brake component whenever I take hard hits as that's when it's just enough force to move and rub until moved back. Yes, I tried loctite...no difference red and blue.

Less messing around too.

Amazon has the 3” size. Here’s a link. EAZ LIFT Eaz-Lift 48654 3-Inch Forged Drop Shank a.co/d/h8mXojt

Per Grenergy book... 1600w avg load = 14hrs 1200w avg load = 19hrs 800w avg load (ECO on) = 21hrs 400w avg load (ECO on) = 28hrs

I followed this article which has a picture of the pin out. I have now made RJ45 ends multiple times now on my Starlink cables. I did the ethernet adapter as a test, worked great. I then took the spare leftover cable to use with female-female coupler to extend and also test the router being plugged in again, worked great. I cut my 50ft starlink cable and crimped on the RJ45 end. I also cut my 150ft starlink cable and did the same. All pin outs for all RJ45 crimps on the power side of the PoE is all the same based on the picture in article (swapped wire). The cable leaving the PoE on the way to the Peplink router is a short swapped pin out PoE side, then normal pin out going to Peplink router. www.offgridcto.com/2022/05/23/starlink-on-pure-dc-power

I did it for the fun challenge. Those prebuilt dual fuel models look nice though. However I like the 120cc engine displacement available in the Honda EU2200I compared to the average 80cc you get from other generators this size.

Yes

Much appreciated!

Thanks. Hope it helped here and there.

@@girouxcampingadventures it helped a Ton Bro

I’ll ping Grenergy and have them comment.

@@girouxcampingadventures Thank you kind Sir.

As with the rest of the process, I did not film this in detail either. For my junction box, I reused the wiring harness. So I simply took a picture before for comparison, and that way when I took it apart and put back together I matched the same wires as the original picture. It would be great to say match your 7-pin wiring harness color to the same wire color in your trailer junction box...however not all wires and not all 7-pins harnesses are made the same. Hence different colors. My best suggestion to you is to take a picture before and after for comparison. You will need to test continuity from the trailer 7-pin head to the other end exposed wire to make sure the different functions of the 7-pin are properly identified. Then...based on your "original picture" you take before starting work, you match up the same connections. Suggest reviewing this Curt page to get an idea: www.curtmfg.com/towing-electrical-wiring I did have a new wiring harness ready to wire in, however the instructions it came with and colors did not match my trailer junction box nor the original 7-pin harness. In the end, I decided to keep the new harness as a spare and never re-wired. Therefore, my wiring was as easy as taking a picture before, then making sure I wired back the same way. If your setup is not that easy, then you need to visually inspect and test with multi-meter the various wires in your trailer junction box to make sure they perform the function you expect. Typically you will have a thicker 10 gauge wire for the power supply and possibly ground as well...though I've seen some harness setups with a 12 gauge ground. My harness that came my trailer when purchased used is noted as 2x10, 5x 12...so 2 runs of 10 gauge (power and ground) and 5 runs of 12 gauge (reverse light, brake light, left turn blinker, right turn blinker, and most important brakes). The emergency breakaway cable will tie into the trailer junction box 12v positive wire as well as the wire going to the brakes...in my case my junction box brake wire was black. Yours might be different.

I did not film the entire process since we were basically stranded on the road during summer vacation...trying to go as fast as possible. However, I followed the Lippert how-to video. Take a look for brake replacement. Lippert video here - support.lci1.com/videos/spring-axle-electric-brake-replacement

Just following instructions from Grenergy. The vendor has a pretty good page regarding why the vent holes exist. Maybe Grenergy will make a no-drill kit in the future. I would sell my current generator and buy a new one so I don’t have holes in the new generator. Honestly, though I trust the work and research done by Grenergy. I did a load test video and had zero issues with this kit, ranging all different kinds of altitudes and loads. grenergy-us.com/pages/whats-up-with-the-air-vents-why

Agreed, I'm sure that the Suit & Tie Engineer's had their reasons for installing the vent kits.

Warranty only useful if you need to take advantage of it. So far…no issues. Zero. Flawless conversion, but thx for watching!

My only words…

@@girouxcampingadventures …. Said with affection!! 😝👍🏻