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They did. Maybe a few months longer. And I USE them. The heel started to separate and a tear from the crease where your toes bend. Solid leather would outlast them. But save those for the winter.

@TheMikechanic got it; thanks for the reply 👍

The same place that teaches you to fix cars

The slower one is on my video page

Beats me, but it does prevent customers from returning complaining of brake squeaks. Probably not something a race car driver would be concerned about.

Surprised the lube doesn’t attract grit and dust.

I’ll keep you in mind. I know use the same engines let me know the engine size. I just did a thermostat on a sonata I think it was a 2.4 it was on the drivers side of the engine it wasn’t b

@@TheMikechanic Thank you, I appreciate it. Gonna see if I can get in there this week.

@@Improving1GramataTime-rz4znI don’t know where the coolant temp sensor is, but do know the thermostat cause I recently changed it. if you face the car and look at the bottom of the radiator on the right side, and follow the big hose, it leads right into the thermostat housing can show pictures if needed

@@TheMikechanicNissan kicks is 1.4 L

Heres a late reply. The boots are pretty much done after daily use. They’re comfortable but the heel is separating may buy another pair or try something new. Any recommendations?

Good idea! Just be careful not to get on plastic or screen. A quick fix I found. If you can get behind the knob contact cleaner is a great idea.

Did you ever get it fixed ? Did the noise stop ? I’m having the same problem

I would 100%. I'm about to do this in a few minutes and no way in heck am I going to work on a live airbag. It's not worth the risk. I'll also turn the key on to drain any residual capacitance. EDIT: Turns out my replacement part is the wrong one for this car. However there are 3 holes at 3, 6, 9 o'clock that release the airbag pad. The pad will now come out and can be set aside still attached through the top of the wheel. There are four silver screws on the back of the wheel: two at the 3/9 o'clock and two at the 6 o'clock positions. Remove those. Inside the wheel cavity there are four fine threaded electroplated (gold ish) screws. Remove those. The latches for both switch modules can be relaxed by pressing upward on the underside of each connector. I used a long flat bladed driver to do this. My channel selector switch (left side, paired with volume/mute) had failed by the black plastic rocker switch breaking so the white plastic plunger was not lowering. I'm attempting to epoxy.

​@frederf3227 thanks for the reply. How did it go for you? I chickened out and left the volume control broken 😂😅 my friend mechanic also didn't want to attempt this because of the airbag..

​@@frederf3227same here and i was thinking the same thing

I think it was a Grand Cheokee. It wasn’t too bad had to remove the exhaust flange and loosen the rack. No way worth the .9 it pays though!

You may not need a jack. I removed the rear subframe bolts there are 4 total just took of the rear ones. It lowers the rear enough to make clearance for the rack. If you remove all 4 (one large 19 or 17mm on each corner of subframe) then you would need a jack to hold the weight.

I’ll see of I can find a good pic and add it to the comments

@@TheMikechanic thx please let me know looks like something I can just work at home just the subframe thing has me hesitant how much should it be torqued at after

Was there a plug connector since it’s an electronic steering rack?

@Jcape4827 some do, but not the Rouge. It’s all controlled by the electric motor is in the steering column.