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Ecotec out performs the 1.8 on fuel, 1:40ish on a vvt and we would hit 2hrs with the ecotec as long as we had some yellows in a stint.

great insight. thanks for sharing.

Why Riding that wide wheelsizes? All the weight 😢 Does 245 doesnt work on 8/8,5j?

Great car. Norfolk master piece. Gonna miss Lotus.

Went with Nexen N'Fera Sport R 275/35/18 here in Canada, it was the cheapest of them all and i'm also trying to find a good compromise for the durability even if it's not the best tire in term of grip. But If I can race more lap, with 95% of the grip, i'm sold.

Detonation. Who did the tuning, and was it done on a Dyno?

Sounds great. I really miss my evora. When i get another plack exhaust or valvetronic.

Very insightful Roy, thanks for posting. You confirmed my suspicions on the RAD Boxters also. Friends and I have been running an E36 in CCES for 5 years now. The Boxters leave our platform totally uncompetitive just like the Miata. Champcar direction seems totally off for us now and we’re taking a break for 2024. It was a weekend warrior builders series but it’s just turning into an IMSA rich man’s play thing. A way under VPI’d platform, IMSA budget, engineering, resources and multiple fresh sets of RE71RS tires per race…add in pro-drivers… That’s a staggering advantage that is unaccounted for in any aspect of balance of performance. The worst part is; nobody at CCES wants to listen. Comments like mine here are just labelled under the “whiner” category and dismissed out of hand.

gawd the welding on that cage is horrible!

It was great running with you Roy! It would be fun to share a car with you in the future instead of just sharing a team.

Thanks for sharing this Roy, I have always been curious what an arrive and drive experience would be like. Was great meeting you at WGI, hope to catch you at another one!

Tyre Reviews did this same test over 8 laps with a bmw coupe rwd (older gen) and his results were the BF Goodrich was 1.5 seconds faster than the 2nd place tire over 1 lap and also faster over 8 laps. The AO52 got 3rd or 4th I believe. His size was 225/45/17. I feel the car, width, and power application matters so much to these test.

What years are your evoras?

Good job my man as an owner should do in a beauty. Once you get the hang of that beauty you’ll be swinging corners in mountains like butter

I got my dream car at 17 I am still 17 it was an 07 3v gt mustang California special my dad spun out on our crappy gravel road and totaled it in a ditch just 3 weeks after getting it

Fellow Viper Club member and RUclipsr here! Great video!

Great video, very well edited!!! Hands down the nicest cleanest car in the burnout pit that day. May I ask what is the type of tape you run to protect your paint?

Sounds fantastic! Enjoy your Lotus!

As an NC owner I have 245s available in all of the above tires, did you ever test a 245 Re71? We're split between the RE71s, CRS and V730. Our race format is 2 3 hour races per weekend. Sat/sun is practice/quali in the morning and a 3 hour race with 2 drivers changes in the afternoon (tire pressure adjustment is allowed when pitting). Re71rs seems the most versatile (rain) and fastest tire, but we expect to get a weekend out of them at best (and a little worried if it'll make it) CRS feels like it's similar pace and will likely make it all weekend (wondering if we could get 2 weekends out of it if we practiced on different tires. And the V730 which I "think" could make it 2 weekends if we just raced on them which would cut our budget down, but they don't seem to work on the car well. They seem way off the pace and grip level(on this car at least) of the Re71s and CRS from previous experience with them. Do you think my life expectancy out of each is reasonable? The car raced successfully on RS4s previously in WRL, and I think we could get 3-4 weekends on them but if they're slower than the V730s, I'd honestly be concerned about our pace

I've never seen the original build video for this car. Is it basically a naturally aspirated (built?) Cobalt engine in this ride, or is something else (besides the GM lump) also labeled an 'Ecotec'??

As far as 'endurance' type 200 TWs go; Any experiences, or thoughts on the Yok AD09s at all and how they compare to the 'old gold standard' of the RS4s as far as grip vs. longevity goes?? Or are they considered way too much of a 'street tire' grip-wise to even be mentioned in the same breath as all of the other 'endurance tires out there?

that LED light ring would KILL ME!!

FOXWELL NT630 Plus OBD2 Scanner on Amazon is currently $130 and will clear those airbag lights using the Daewoo method mentioned

Blue ball is $150 or less replacement, I've done it. My dealer was going to do a whole shifter assembly replacement ($3k) if it wasn't for the guys on lotus talk intervening

My sail panel cracked in the exact same spot. Lol. A pillar too.

Pretty neat info, don’t see a lot of these cars around. Thank you for sharing!

Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise.

The JRW is also the heaviest 15x10. If you want the best 15x10 look at the KE Motorsport PRO T12 G2. Lighter and stronger than the Konig......

We won the ChampCar Endurance Series National Championship with Atlanta Speedwerks on Nexen N'Fera Sport R's! They are definitely becoming a top choice in the endurance scene!

what did you have to do to fit a 15x10 on your NA? I'm running 15x9 225s and would like to get to 15x10 but not sure how well they fit....

There are no Nexen N'Fera Sport R available in 15" in the country, and they're supposedly changing factories, so none available this year (that's what the lady at Nexen told me).

Great video Roy. Veey discouraging to hear that all those 15 inch wheels bend. I have really been looking forward to my mzr swapped na so i could get back to a 15 inch rim and tire because they are lighter, cheaper, and i thought they were gonna be more durable than the 17's on the nc. Regarding the Rt660, I'm really shocked to hear the issues that you have had. When I started running them, Rodney earwood said to make sure that I run enough air in them because he had a similar experience that you had with his bmw when he did not run enough air in them. He spoke with their engineer to find out the correct air pressure and what not. I also assumed that part of his issue was that his BMW made more power and was heavier than my NC miata. They have been consistently very good for the nc. Aside from mcm, they will last the whole 14 hour race everywhere or a whole 15 to 16 our weekend. Usually with Tire left over to use on a practice day at an upcoming event. They are way more consistent and at least one second faster than the rs4. Another thing that I want to mention is that tire rack did a tire test on 7 in 8 in and 9 inch rims using a 205, 225, and 245. They found that the 225 on 9 inch rims was the best combination. So that is what i switched to last year. There might be a little more time with a 245, but i have really been pleased with the feel of ths 225 not to mention the price difference

Only a guess but extra clearances are needed on both ring gap, piston to bore and even crankshaft bearings when running higher than stock power.

If it's a Ford than failure does not surprise me.

This looks like you need some ring gap.what Octane did you use

Money spent on a build depends on the outcome you are looking for on track. If your target is to participate it can be super cheap. If you are going for an overall win every race the price sky rockets. To constantly place at the pointy end all the I have to be dotted and t crossed. First you need a 100% reliable car and on top of that it has to be fast. Both of those aspects (reliability and speed) are where all the cost come in. I would always prioritize reliability first because if you can't finish you can't win. Replacing know weak parts before they fail adds up fast. If you go down the road of "we will fix it when it brakes" you are not bringing a 100% reliable car to the track. Oh and don't discount the drivers they play a big impact on the outcome as well.

I know you have raced the car already but catching up on your video series. Do you guys actually run a legit racing oil? After our Daytona mishap last year, we finally put in a 3 quart Accusump to go along with the trap door oil pan baffle and switched to 40 weight VR1 oil and everything was much better.

We did a similar headlight setup in the same location. We found some crystal clear lens covers that don't disrupt the beam compared to the stock lenses. Amazon sells them for $40.

I am still going with too much internal combustion heat due to a combination of lean mixture and late timing. (Exhaust leak giving false O2 readings and the loose pulley triggering the knock sensor to pull back the timing or timing retarded too much from an incorrect tune) If the piston damage was caused by detonation then chunks of the piston probably would have been dislodged all at once then left evidence of the bits being hammered between the piston and the head. I think the pistons were progressively burnt away in short order. The molten metal from the burning piston could be the spots on the cylinder head. I believe the dark spots on the head in each cylinder indicates high heat. Any valve, valve seat, or valve guide damage could be from the excessive heat in the combustion chamber and head surface This heat could have been transferring into the intake valve seat and the intake valve itself over-riding the normal cooling affect of intake air/fuel flow and and cooling affect when it closes and contacts a cooler seat. The intake valve stem could have even increased in diameter due to over-heating and started to seize in the guide.

Pre Ignition ( not Detonation ) damage, detonation occurs after the plug ignites the air and fuel. Pre Ignition happens as the piston is traveling upward and causes failure like you have experienced. That explains why you don't have damage to the rod bearings.

Seems like more of a tune issue than oil starve to me. Usually you spin a bearing before anything with the pistons in a low oil P situation.

I will guess pre-ignition ( not detonation ) caused this. Just a guess. As to why, that remains to be seen....

I just found out my 1952 lakehouse needs some major work. You need to buy my car for $15K. I spent more than that just for the EcotecMiata turn-key installation. Located in Brighton, Michigan 48114. It needs the brakes improved and heat shields but could be driven anywhere. The only problem is the interior is too nice to make a race car. But it would be the ideal street car for product development and to showcase your products. Perfect for "Miatas at the Gap". It comes with the following parts for future improvements: Ecotecmiata flywheel kit, New HD clutch assembly, 6-speed Miata transmission with 33,000 miles, Solstice AR5 transmission with 33,000 miles, Slingshot transmission with 14 miles, later rear subframe if you run without a PPF, Flyin Miata V8 crossflow radiator, Flyin Miata V8 sway bar bent to clear pulley nut, Flyin Miata sway bar supports, various cooling fittings to re-route hoses, Mazdaspeed sideskirts, Jetstream front spoiler, Bimini top kit, Quickjack hydraulic lift, plus many more. See pictures on my channel or search "Miataquest" on insta-ya-know.

I am going with a combination of the exhaust leak giving the oxygen sensor bad feedback and the damaged pulley triggering the knock sensor to pull back the timing. The combination of pulled back timing and a lean mixture could have made everything run hot internally including the oil.

Got hot and rings butted? Try to avoid stock ring gaps if it possible engine may get hot in racing like losing cooling. Look for intermittent vertical ring gouges in cylinder walls once you get pistons out.

Rings butting up together will pull the head off of the pistons ot break the ring land in between the 2 compression rings.

Best guess with information and evidence provided...... intermittent lean condition caused by fuel slosh. Cylinders run lean, get hot, butt the top ring, and pop the lands.

Hoe was your oil level throughout? Was it consuming oil thru the pcv lowering the octane creating detonation . Maybe try venting the pcv and valve cover to a catch can then road draft it

Hmm RUclips ate my other comment.....1) were you able to check timing before you pulled it apart? 2) Any chance mechanical timing moved due to the keyway issue or was wrong when you put it back together Sunday?