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Glad I could help! Yeah I've left all my videos public just to help people out my videos may not be that great but done with good intentions. I kind of got some nasty grams from one of my videos so I almost put them all private because of it. So it was really nice to get a positive review and I'm so glad I could help you. Thank you for your kind words.❤

No it's a Janome New Home. With that being said it's a badged machine. Badge machines were all made in Japan, there were several manufacturers and they would build a machine to a specification that American stores would resell. This was a very popular machine so it would not surprise me if there were other names on the same machine. About the only brand that were built in Japan that you will not see a different name on were Brother, And Kenmore. They were such huge volume buyers that they would not allow those manufacturers to replicate their models for anyone else. Pretty much any other vintage machine that was sold in the United States other than Singer were made in Japan. The exception would be German and Swiss machines. When you turn over a Japanese badged machine, you will see a letter and number underneath. That was the manufacturers model number. There are so many Facebook groups dedicated to vintage sewing machines. That's your best source for information, manuals, parts, etc

All of these vintage sewing machines that have the motor attached with the boss bracket uses the same size belts. I recommend the singer combo pack it has a new tire for the bobbin winder and the belt for the motor. here's a link where I would get them as long as you're in the US www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/round-rubber-stretch-belt-fits-13-to-15-bobbin-tire-and-spool-pin-felt-pad

I'm not as active as I used to be with sewing machine groups on Facebook, that's where I've gotten most of my manuals. I would recommend searching for vintage sewing machine groups, join them and then look for the manual. I would always make sure it would fit in a 5 x 7 photo album, which I bought on eBay, so that I can make my own manuals. If the manual didn't have enough pages I would assemble a couple of photo albums together by sewing them together and they turned out pretty well. Here's the photo albums that I purchased the only ones that really work well doing that. They were easy to pull apart and sew together at the spine. Enjoy www.ebay.com/itm/171899678092?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=QhmVmUYJR6S&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Be careful it can be addicting! As I can tell you I have over 50 machines! Like I need 50 machines? Nope but I love and cherish every one of them. Enjoy 😊

@@dionnepray9821 Well… I think I only had 3 machines when I first started talking to you (It’s Kylie from NEw Zealand, hiiiii!) and you showed me your pink ones …. And now I have 20 … so… yeah 😂😂😂 Still no pinks, but a couple of cool blue ones 🤗🤗🤗

ruclips.net/video/3csqOrZAVQ4/видео.htmlsi=t9jtNy1bXcYu7J7p The sewing machine uses standard needles for household sewing machines. The size of the needle depends on your fabric and the thread you're using.

@@enchantresskisara6304 yes I sold that machine a long time ago years ago pretty much right one about the time I posted the video. I decided to leave all my videos up because I'm getting really good feedback that people are learning their machines. I'm so happy that it helped you out! That's a nice little machine enjoy

@@neilsunn I have a designer one and they're really phenomenal machines even for how old they are they really work well. There's a few idiosyncrasies but there is a Facebook page dedicated to the designer one. I would strongly recommend you join that group because they can help you with any issues that might arise. I strongly recommend reading the manual and familiarizing yourself with all the features. And search for RUclips videos. I have been using computerized embroidery machines since 1997, when I bought my singer quantum 100. The best way to learn how to use embroidery machines is to start with easy designs, which are smaller designs that have fewer thread changes. That should help you get up and going. When you start using embroidery machines you need to find lots of colors, and I strongly recommend buying kits of many colors of thread. I have over 400 colors nowadays, and I use them all for different projects. Stabilizing and what you want to accomplish with an embroidery machine will drive what you're doing. Enjoy!! Here's a group of 120 different colors they're the smaller cone I usually try to buy the thousand yards minimum but this can at least get you by www.amazon.com/simthread-Spools-Polyester-Machine-Embroidery/dp/B01AWEIPBY/ref=mp_s_a_1_15_sspa?crid=1HLMFR94CXB36&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ntjp0b5cEnLPtPslpHyedzyF7FvVNHW12cYf0msvA0EPyzsdQr5qmQqYMPi2NXxRmonNCINwdm3J-ywL17ADHYvlpPpUqZ7wz6JsERSVCOzUOds8V6kHirF-b4BXw2yrS7q-K--NVHbRIEe669yqBD8ee5IXAmLgBKImjFyvqaX9XdmX5Xl_waXEB3mzvgNU1NBEpTDt0OD1a8QxQSNNqw.CsqalAjmJPm9fSyqFhFUbqXool-rNQXd6yABBVkgKxE&dib_tag=se&keywords=california+thread+1000+yard+embroidery+thread&qid=1725561019&sprefix=california+thread+1000+yrd+embroidery+thread%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-15-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmX25leHQ&psc=1 Here's a much bigger lot of colors on ebay. I would guess that they're only 500 meters. It looks like it's harder to find the 1000 meter spools. www.etsy.com/listing/1534743000/embroidery-machine-thread-260-thread

@@natalysuarezmartinez5776 1. cambiar la aguja 2. Si la bobina está tirando del material hacia el área de la bobina, algo anda mal en la bobina. Saque la bobina y verifique la tensión en la caja de la bobina. La forma en que lo hace es colocar el hilo normalmente y debería poder moverlo hacia arriba con el dedo índice y el pulgar mientras cuelga suelto y debería extenderse aproximadamente de 3 a 4. pulgadas es todo lo que cae al suelo, está demasiado suelto, si no se mueve en absoluto, es demasiado duro. 3. Mi recomendación es que compres la guía de tensión de la canilla, generalmente tiene un clip en la parte inferior, tiene un peso con la báscula y según cómo estés cosiendo te dirá dónde debe estar la tensión de ese hilo. 4. para fijar la tensión necesitas el material que vas a coser, enhebra la máquina con un color claro o blanco, enhebra la canilla con negro y no deberías poder ver nada negro en la parte superior pero tampoco deberías No verá nada de blanco en la parte inferior de la costura. Siempre primero ajustas la tensión de la bobina y luego ajustas la tensión superior en función de la tela y el hilo. 5. Estas máquinas de coser están hechas en su mayoría de metal, por lo que deben engrasarse con regularidad; sin embargo, no conviene engrasar demasiado o ensuciará la ropa que está cosiendo. Le recomiendo encarecidamente que visite las tiendas locales de máquinas de coser porque la mayoría ofrece diferentes clases. lo que necesitas es una clase sobre cómo funcionan las máquinas de coser cuál es la mejor aguja para mi proyecto cuál es la mejor tela para mi proyecto. esos son los tipos de cursos en los que necesitas más conocimientos prácticos para poder trabajar en tus máquinas de coser. Ojalá pudiera ser de más ayuda, comencé a coser en séptimo grado y tengo 60 años. Y aún así, hasta que no me di cuenta de cómo trabajaban, el personal de servicio de todas las marcas de máquinas de coser miente terriblemente. Me deshice de una máquina que ahora con mis conocimientos oh desearía tenerla de vuelta, fue la primera máquina de mi madre. lamentablemente no nos enseñan cómo funcionan las máquinas de coser y cómo trabajar con ellas. Incluso las máquinas nuevas. Tengo tanto conocimiento de las antiguas que he pasado a que todas las máquinas sean iguales. de todos modos espero que esto ayude buena suerte

@@natalysuarezmartinez5776 Pude copiar tu mensaje y colocarlo en este traductor desde el correo electrónico porque RUclips no lo permite. Así que debes desplazarte. Espero que esto vaya al primer espacio de mi respuesta, así que debes desplazarte para llegar a la respuesta principal.

Here is a set of cams that you can buy on eBay for $20. eBay really is your best source for manuals and cams and any accessories. www.ebay.com/itm/335514394272?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1NXSuV3cR8S&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=lf2RFr0pTfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The sewing machine came in two models, one that had no cams, and a model with cams. I think it's the 534 that has cams. Put in a search on eBay save it cuz there isn't any right now for sale, and when a manual comes available that's your best bet for a vintage copy. You can get a digital copy for free here www.sewingmachinesplus.com/manual-j-534-en.php

You are very welcome. My first go to place to buy parts, and where I also bought online motors, along with replacement power cords. And tension assemblies www.vintagesingerparts.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtNi0BhA1EiwAWZaANGj_w0fB8FLfCcMts4SA2yUQh2CFJkTmRziAilx3olDhGUosK1oSmxoCHRAQAvD_BwE This sewing machine was covered in Black gunk which is in reality oil. So I would first start by only soaking the silver parts in a rust remover, depending on how shiny it got I would use wet sandpaper, wet sandpaper without causing too much damage to the finish, then finally I would use Zymol which I found an article on the best way to clean sewing machine finishes and this was in it. And I swear by it now because it's the only thing I would use as a final cleaning wax and wax so it was gentle enough to gently use it to remove the old black oil from the finish without damaging decals. It's the only thing I recommend for cleaning the finish without ruining it. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JKIRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title And lastly if I couldn't find the parts new as a reproduction then I would look for a vintage machine or parts on eBay I've been known to buy a machine just for parts. Keep in mind I was refurbing sewing machines to finance my habit, I do collect machines I still have about 50. This one ironically I had bought just for the cabinet. The machine was in such bad condition I was going to throw it away. But it was my first machine and I thought you know since I was going to throw it away anyway I'm not going to worry about what I did to it because I wanted to make it as my test machine on how to repair machines. I'm extremely mechanically inclined so I went for it. Unexpectedly it turned out so gorgeous that I was able to sell the whole thing

Because of the style of the Style O Matic foot attachment, this set sold for $800. They are extremely rare and very collectible. As long as you market it properly, you should be able to sell it for that anytime!🎉❤

I know this is a stupid question because it's probably this machine, but does it look like this machine? Because I do have the manual to this and I can send it to you if you are willing to post your email address. As soon as you do and I get notification I'll send you the manual and then you can remove your email so it doesn't stay on here forever...lol

Are you talking about between 6 and 7:00 on the clock face on the base of the sewing machine or on the upper tension assembly

@@dionnepray9821 if you look at the bobbin case and watch as the upper thread comes down to catch the bobbin thread, the upper thread gets caught on the bobbin casing. Best way is to knew to describe was using a clock face.

I'm not really sure what you were trying to comment. The translation from Google was hard to understand. As they say Lost in translation. This video was done as an introduction to how to begin learning the machine. I'm sorry if it didn't meet your expectations. I'm not a professional this was strictly done as a favor.

Okay so this is a drop-in bobbin. Do you have the manual? How long have you had this machine? First I would say look at the bobbin and how it was wound. Make sure it's flowing freely off of the bobbin or that will affect your tension. Next you need to try and take the slide bobbin cover off the bobbin, what's over the feed dogs that should pop up and get a brush in there and get all the lint out. Cuz if it hasn't been cleaned or serviced recently that can affect how the bobbin performs. Make sure you have the right bobbin if you bought this machine used, then chances are very good that all the bobbins that came with it won't fit! The manual will help you on how to clean and maintain, and oil the machine. It's very important to have the manual. You can probably just Google singer 50/50 manual you should be able to find a free download. It's very rare that you need to adjust tension in the bobbin, you usually do that adjustment on the upper thread. You want to make sure that you watch some videos on basic cleaning and oiling of sewing machines. It's really hard when I don't know exactly what you're experiencing, keep in mind that if the thread gives you a bird's nest underneath the fabric it's not the bobbin it is definitely the upper thread tension is too loose. Or there could be lint or thread pieces in the upper thread tension that's causing the tension to not function properly. You may need to get this machine serviced, look for a sewing machine repair place, it really doesn't matter the brand I've gone to Bernina in downtown Garland Texas the guy is fabulous, so I would call every single sewing machine repair, just ask them do you repair any vintage sewing machines? And they probably do if they are any good at repair. I hope this helps you!😢

They are awesome machines I'm sure you're loving it 🤩

This machine is what they call a left homing machine. What that means is that the machine always brings the foot back to the left. It will never be in the center. They did this to save money because they only had to operate the machine going One direction. I always recommend starting with a manual. If you go to eBay you should be able to find a manual. Here's one for 15 bucks and it's like new! www.ebay.com/itm/404843196858?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qkmVCLPcSnC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=lf2RFr0pTfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL. Always read the manual! I know the tendency to never even open the manual but when it comes to vintage machines they're mechanical you need to open the manual.

Actually Janome isn't English!! It was a brand established and manufactured in Japan. The way I pronounced it in the video is how it's pronounced. New home is an American company that utilize Japanese manufacturing to make the product. But the name comes from an American company that bought these machines and branded them their own. We call them badged machines. There's many many stores such as Sears with their Kenmore brand now those are the absolute elite of the Japanese manufactured sewing machines at that time. When these machines are manufactured Japan was not necessarily viewed by Americans as quality today anything manufactured in Japan is considered high quality. All these machines of that vintage era that were manufactured in Japan, are absolutely amazing quality. Today we're kind of going through a similar situation with China. Except China products are definitely not up to scruff. It's like one of my favorite embroidery machines is the Husqvarna Viking and they're now made in China and there's been a lot of problems with them because of it they used to be of course from Sweden.😢

These are old videos I no longer have the dolls for sale.

You are very welcome Happy to help

Here is a set of cams that are in good condition. I always go to eBay that is your best place to find items that you can't find anywhere else. Here's the link. The manual pictured for sale with the cams is not the same machine. They listed it as an Emdeko, pretty much The only difference is the style of the machine. However with that said if you want the manual for this exact machine I do have it you can send me your email address and I can forward it on. I hope you enjoyed my video. www.ebay.com/itm/325965378628?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4C9ff09SSES&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=lf2RFr0pTfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Okay how to do that on this machine is there's a knob in the center of the hand wheel. It's that big wheel on the right hand side of the machine as you're looking at it and then the very center there's a chrome knob basically what you do is you hold the hand wheel and you use the other hand your right hand to screw that chrome knob counterclockwise or towards you. That will disengage the needle. Then when you're ready to start sewing again you you must screw that back to where it's tight and then the needle will re-engage. I do have a copy of the manual if you would like send me your email address and I'll send it to you. I always recommend to make sure you have a manual. The good news is most all machines are the same especially the mechanicals on how to disengage the needle. Good luck and enjoy and if I get a response from you with your email address I'll send you the manual at no cost.😊

From the few sentences you sent me, I'm making a few assumptions, I'm assuming you're talking about the upper thread tension. Because there are two you have the upper and then you have the bobbin. So on the upper thread tension yes you can take it apart and there's probably some burrs(I use wet sandpaper 220 grit wet, and I buff the discs with that and that will remove any burrs or anything that could cause the thread to snag) you know thread is moving through the machine at a rate that makes the thread abrasive to the tension system. What you need to do is Google how to remove, take apart, service and reinstall the upper thread tension and check spring. Either that or take it to a sewing machine repair place that specializes in vintage machines.... My health precludes me from getting out my 52 setting up my camera and producing a video that would teach you how to service the tension assembly. I am sure there are other videos on RUclips I learned from RUclips how to service vintage sewing machines, especially thread tension because that is usually the number one issue with a sewing machine that fails to sew properly. I would say 90% of the time it's the tension. And the check spring is vital in the upper thread tension assembly. I wish you the best of luck in repairing it because I love my 52. I actually always have it available to me to use but currently I've been relocating to another state and so all my machines are in their cases waiting for me to set them back up. I have no idea how long it will be if ever, that's why I'm recommending you look for an existing RUclips video. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help! Thank you for watching my video, and good luck!

@@dionnepray9821 thank you for responding! There are very few videos on the 52 that I've been able to find and even fewer for servicing them. I was talking about the upper tension yes, and I couldn't figure out how to get it apart. After a couple hours of looking I found a book on sewing machine repair and found that the Kenmore 52 is also a White (unsure of model) and eventually figured out how to pop the cover off without damaging it. Thank you for your description on sanding the burrs and checking the spring. I'll do that today.

@@ginapickton You are very welcome I wish I could be more help. Keep this in mind of all the vintage sewing machines most of them are Japanese The Kenmore the white they're called badged machines which is yes you'll find similar or even almost exact models now the Kenmore they did have some exclusivity such as their colors they couldn't copy it for another brand in other words. So you don't have to find a Kenmore 52 thread tension assembly video You just need to find a vintage not an antique cuz they're different You want a vintage sewing machine upper thread tension video. And I know they're out there. When you're reinstalling the assembly where you place it and how you started to zero thread tension and then all the way up to 9 I think is the highest on the number scale then it should be really really hard to pull through. As you learn how to assemble and disassemble and the more you do it the more you'll start to figure out oh I need about this much I need to start the check spring here before I tighten down the assembly so that I get the right amount of tension on the check spring as well. It's really hard to describe, that's why I want you to look for some vintage sewing machine upper thread tension videos. Again I wish you the best of luck with your machine.

You know I didn't recommend you to watch my video and if you didn't like it that's not my fault and if you can't figure out how to wind the bobbin perhaps if you weren't so nasty people would help you out but I'm sure not going to help you out.

This sewing machine is a household sewing machine. So it will sew lightweight garment leather. Anything thicker than that requires typically walking feet so that the top material is being moved at the same exact speed as the bottom material. Also sewing with heavy duty thread through a heavy duty material requires an industrial machine. Hope this helps

When I bought the cabinet and machine the machine was in such bad condition and I was so new to working on sewing machines I knew nothing really about them even though I've been sewing since 7th grade but nobody ever teaches you how to work on them, nobody teaches you how to troubleshoot even what does a rat's nest or bird's nest on top of the fabric mean what does it mean if it's underneath the fabric. So I had every intention actually of just tossing the machine because it was just black It was gross, I had actually buy a special tool to pull the balance wheel off because it was so hardened on that even a sledgehammer would not remove it I had to use a puller which has four like fingers with the center screw that pushes through the middle and at the same time pulls the balance wheel out. So I thought this machine's in such bad condition it's not worth anything to me and I bought the treadle for my red eye. Unfortunately my red eye was never meant to be a treadle machine and how you know whether a machine was originally for treadle is it has the big balance wheel that you can grab and pull towards you as you start to peddle. If it has a pretty molding of the body around the balance wheel and kind of encloses the top of the balance wheel you know that's meant to be an electric machine. It's funny you know I did this video several years ago and that machine sold very quickly. Nowhere did I say I used oil to clean it, I watched it again because I thought there's no way I said that... I actually didn't tell you how I cleaned this I just said I took it all apart which I did I dismantled it from the balance wheel all the way. How I clean my machines because I didn't open it up so that you could see but the metal parts inside are shiny silver. The only cleaner that will bring all of the old oil varnish off is lighter fluid. So this is how I do it I take it outside and work outside it's the only place I do this because lighter fluid is very toxic and it's combustible. So what I do is I put down cardboard to soak up any excess lighter fluid very thick cardboard not just cheap cardboard I mean you know the heavy duty corrugated so it's got something to really soak it up. Once you scrub the heck out of it with toothbrushes and q-tips and metal brushes you do have to be a little bit careful if you're using a metal brush because the metal can actually start a spark with lighter fluid. So for the most part I use scrubbing brushes that you get like at home Depot that are about 2 in long and the bristles are probably an inch long and there wood handled with a black plastic bristles. And so I squirt the heck out of it and what's really nice about lighter fluid is it will also clean any finish without causing any damage. Where if you try any other cleaning solution whether it's alcohol alcohol never goes anywhere near my machines because it will ruin finishes and I was unfortunate to have a featherweight that happened with. So you don't want alcohol anywhere near your machines ever. A lot of people use kerosene, I'm not a fan. Kerosene will not remove the yellow golden varnish. You see when it comes to oil, varnish is oil-based and oil will turn into a varnish. It's kind of like tongue oil you know so old sewing machines when you open them up if they're not black they're usually gold metal and that's not the color of the metal that's actually old oil that has not been able to be successfully removed. If you use lighter fluid I guarantee you all the metal will turn back to silver, with that being said as soon as it gets clean you need to dab it down with the paper towel or a rag and then you need immediately oil it because it will actually lock up your machine because metal on metal without any lubrication whatsoever will stop movement. So you must oil it well immediately ask me how I know this can happen because that also did happen to me I had a machine that locked up but it's easier to get it moving because there is no oil freezing it it's just there's nothing lubricating it so you just oil the heck out of it. I only use clear sewing machine oil because you're working with fabrics. And you don't want filth. That's why I kind of don't understand all these sewing machine mechanics that don't use lighter fluid they only use kerosene and so that right away tells me it's not cleaned well if that's how they did it. There are a lot of people on Facebook in the sewing machine groups that just use oil, they say oh oil cleans oil does but not very well. Especially if you use some kind of additive oil, cuz I also know of people that use motor oil. Which motor oil has additives and the additives are there so that for people that don't change their oil regularly it helps to clean the engine. The problem is just using oil to clean a motor or a machine can actually cause the metal to break down. Well this was a long-winded reply and I hope it helps you.😅

@@dionnepray9821 you know Dionne, yours is the kind of response commenters like me dream of. Thank you very much. I've been ill, hence the long response time. As to you speaking / not speaking of what you did to get your machine looking so great, I must have been mixing up videos. However, I am glad I did, because now we have an excellent response on the web on "how to". I will be out today to go get lighter fluid (butane, really), and give it a go. I had kerosene ready to go, but your response told me that if I value genuine cleanliness, go for the butane. And so thats what I'll do. I will reply here with an update when I can get her in order - hope to engage you again. All the best to you - G. ps: the four fingered thingmagodie is called a bearing puller. Common in automotive settings, easily obtained at any harbour freight/ princess auto (usa/canada) or parts store.

​​@@LitoGeorgejust make sure that the lighter fluid is lighter fluid butane is different. I believe I'm not positive but I'm talking just the lighter fluid you know it's in the yellow and blue bottle. And it just squirts out it's not aerosol. Yes you're right it's called bearing puller. When you get to my age you start forgetting all the names for things lol. I'm glad you enjoyed my response and I'm glad you enjoyed my video. You know I've left all my videos up even though these machines have long been sold, because I think there is good information there for people that are perhaps starting out working with vintage and antique machines. And for after I've used lighter fluid on the finish of the machine and gently cleaning where the decals are then I only use Zymol for cleaning and waxing it's a cleaning wax. And so it really does it all in one step. I know a lot of people use turtle Wax but I prefer Zymol it's very effective but yet gentle to the decals. Feel free to check out my other videos because there's a nice variety of machines. I also did some training videos on a chain stitch machine which is a singer 114 w103. They are amazing for doing artwork, which is the only real use I have for sewing machines. Of course I do the odd project but I don't make clothing or any of that anymore. Just art.😊

www.amazon.com/Zymol-Cleaner-Original-Formula-Ounce/dp/B07Q46SY4L/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=3ILJD7HFUVGOZ&keywords=zymol+cleaner+wax&qid=1703875876&sprefix=Zymol+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-2

www.amazon.com/Ronson-ounce-Ronsonol-Lighter-Fuel/dp/B000XJ36UO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=SHKGQQUMHMBS&keywords=lighter+fluid&qid=1703875968&sprefix=%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-5

I sold that machine about 5 years ago not too long after I posted that video. So I don't have that machine and I never used it other than I got it serviced and cleaned everything up made it look sparkling again and resold it so I flipped that machine. My customer the last time I talked to her she's still in love with it that was probably about 3 or 4 years later. So I don't have a clue how to answer your question. So the first thing I would recommend is do you have the manual? I'm assuming that you don't since you're not sure how to set the stitch settings. So here's a link to a free PDF of that file. www.manua.ls/bernina/aurora-440/manual I wish you the best of luck, worst case scenario is I would say look for a good Bernina dealer near you and have it serviced if you can't get the stitches to work.

I hate to tell you this but that is a tough find. For some strange reason the Japanese manufacturers did not use a consistent size. I had a machine that was a dressmaker they made a ton of them and yet I had the worst time trying to find a replacement. I did purchase a lot of parts from Central Michigan sewing machine supply. Good luck in your search

If you're speaking of that button that is up on top of the presser foot bar that is the presser foot tension. So if it's completely depressed then it has the most pounds of pressure on the fabric. If you let it release you can push it down to different levels of pressure. I hope that makes sense. And conversely if you want to free motion your sewing you can drop the feed dogs and loosen the pressure and then you can guide the fabric anywhere without the feed dogs interrupting it at all.❤

Would you consider this machine a good machine to have?

@@leslierhodes5467 Absolutely!! The number one most popular built machine is the singer series 15. And this is a clone of that. They are fantastic machines and are very popular. And this machine is a vintage Japanese made machine that is made exactly like the singer 15.