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aren't you suppose to check if the neck is straight while the strings are on and with a notched straightedge because of the tension the strings give from pulling?

Great video. Thanks

Aged tortoise shell guard

Bycarb soda in with the vinegar

Get the rust off the tuners leave the discolour there it's perfect

Mask the edge of the neck first so you can pull up all the interfret tapes at once.

This video gave me the confidence to try it myself, using the same tools and methods. I was nervous, doubtful and I did make a few mistakes at first... but my guitar now plays perfectly with action I've always dreamed of.

Watching the video and I saw the "Dream Cars" binder up the top shelf! I have the same one, but not complete.

Great video thank you, very informative, just wondering, though, when leveling the frets wouldn’t it be better to use a sanding block with the correct radius of the fretboard? Like the ones you can find online?

Very cool. Would love to see how one would look with the same color veneer on the neck as the main body.

Nice job! It's a shame you are in Australia because you seem a knowledgeable guy and my guitars all need work after being stored for a number of years! I'd trust you in a jiffy to get them all serviced and prepped to play again. If I ever come to Australia I'll give you a nod LOL but for now I'll give you a sub instead. 🤣

They looked great. I am going to attempt the same on my old 12 string guitar. I have new ones which fit and work well but they don't match the rest of the aesthetic (they look out of place). If I can get my old ones cleaned a bit and working a bit better/smoother then they will be preferable. Thanks for the tips dude. I hope you don't me also asking if you have any tips on which oils are better to use on an older fretboard? All the best. Dan🎸

Thanks for the video, can you tell me where you got these vintage looking tuner ferrules? Thanks

Thank you for this instructive video! It's the best one I've come across so far. The tip about the highest frets I've never heard or read about anywhere.

Got the terms back bow (and upbow, or bow) reversed there.

tip for the fret fall off if you have a large levelling beam - 16 inches for example - (credit - saw this on crimson guitar channel) - put a few layers of masking tape on two thirds of the beam. This will protect the frets you don't want to have fall off from getting lower, whilst making the beam slightly angled so that it hits the frets you do want to have fall off :)

no sense in just leveling something that doesn't necessarily need leveling, the fret rocker has a purpose

Excellent work thank you !

I wish you hadn't put a battery on the body while gluing it. That type of added weight, if unsupported on the bottom, can bake a "bow" into the wood, and it can also cause the wood to separate many years later. You could remedy that by putting something underneath that supports the weight of the battery which would solve all of those problems.

Tape sides first then frets. Makes it easier to pull off tape.

Great job and great music!

Would you make any adjustments to the nut after the level of your frets have changed?

What kind of creme are you using when polishing?

A few things that I have learnt that may (or may not) be helpful 1) leveling the neck off the "wood" is not always the best (using a notched level) as the wood of the neck is not always true. This applies also to individual fret "leveling" tools that rely (rest on) the neck wood to be perfect - you should avoid such tools. A Gibson SG that I just did was substantially different leveling off the wood vs leveling off the frets ( understanding that leveling off the frets, if they are not yet true, you must allow for some variation). 2) I never use fret rockers, if you want low action (mine leave with almost zero relief, low E at 1.00 mm and high E at 0.75mm, with the action up a bit from that if the guitar player is more heavy handed ) a fret rocker is a very crude tool. I will level the neck from the wood and than check level on the frets, and if there is a difference go with the frets being level. 3) I assure the neck is true, allowing time for the wood to move and settle ( typically overnight if the relief adjustment is significant) - then I will tape it down, felt mark all frets and do a very light pass over everything - not enough that recrowning is required, but enough to "read" the neck and tell you if it needs a full level. This has proven very useful. 4) I always create a fall off at the frets on the "heal" of the neck - the strings vibration radius is the greatest here, and the truss rod adjustment has no impact at this point in the neck. There is much more, but just some thoughts is all. (:~>

Thank you for the simple to follow video! I will be using. it as a guide to do some fret work. What kind of polishing gel did you use?

How much would a guitar from you run? I have an extremely low budget

Good stuff. Just susbscribed

Excellent video. Straight to the point and very informative.

Awesome!

That's $60-$70 in USA dollars. It would sell here for $200-$275 if the asking price was $325-$350. Probably more.

Thank you for a very informative and helpful video!

Being a Blues player kept me thru your Build, in the end would luv to own that guitar the HB's scream👍💯

Sad that someone tried to ruin this in other ways very fine video, by playing disturbing guitar close to your microphone, so that people with english as our second language, couldnt concentrate on the information of your speech.

Great video! A couple of things I do differently: 1) I make three shims, exactly the same thickness (wood, plastic, doesn't matter) and place them on the ends and middle of the fretboard, then lay my straight edge on top. As long as it touches all three equally, that's as straight as anyone's going to get that neck. 2) I use a small triangular ("three-square") file for both crowning the frets and tidying their ends, but it has had its sharp corners ground down slightly, so the faces still work but there's less chance of damaging the wood. When crowning, it's important to leave the thinnest line of sharpie along each fret.

I still have a little bottle of dark amber colored tuner stain to vintageize replacement tuners for a mandolin, now long gone..I recently added it to my model paint box, and had success using it on a Mandoshawan Fifth Element resin figure from eBay. But, that stuff doesn't know the meaning of dry. You gotta walk away from a coating for five days before messing some more with it. Today I touched up some vintage dark amber Persol sunglasses with it, in areas where the plastic looked ghosted and pale. A perfect look...so far. Again, I'll wait a week before handling it. You ever use it?

On the fret leveling beam, what grit did you use to level the frets? Also can you post a link to the fret leveling kit

tbh your bgm is too loud and not relaxing at all and since I don't know the song I find it annoying to listen, I would rather hear the machines sound than listen to your bgm it would have been better if you lowered your bgm. btw you made a beautiful looking guitar.

VERY VERY NICE WORK, and, MOST CORRECT STEPS FOR RE-LEVELING, and of course, POLISHING FRETS -TO FINISHED GRADE. THANK YOU EVER SO MUCH! GREAT JOB !

Once you said bleach but you used hydrogen peroxide instead.

Might be bakelite tuners.

Great video. Thanks man.

Where do you buy the Electric components?

Should have veneered the headstock. Otherwise, nice work

You had me with "Relaxing blues music" which I absolutely love. I really do need to learn to play guitar.

What did you think of the tried and true on the neck?

Fabulous build and hardware choices. Wonder about the weight of the guitar

you mean wine vinegar?

You're left handed but you play guitar right handed.

Classy beautiful and sexy guitar.

Beautiful body, love how the maple contrast with the walnut. Was the neck purchased?