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Dumb question, why are western knives built to be so bottom-heavy?

hi what in your opinion hardest metal shapton gonna work ? thank you

Been meaning to fly over from nz to visit the shop in sydney thanks for the vid

You can also putvthe knife in the freezer, as it makes glue brittle.

You are overcomplicating the subject, knife sharpening guides work perfectly!!! Excellent for non-professionals.

I'm not 100% in line with this conclusion. I've used many stones and find that grit is just one part of the equation. I like Shapton Pro for sharpening tools, as the bond is really hard and dishes slowly. If it's hard, it means that the stone doesn't produce slurry as much. So you're sharpening with the grits that are in the stone, not so much the grits that are in the slurry. The grit in the slurry gets moved and crushed, creating a mix of "true" grit and finer grit. So the scratch pattern can get more "blurred," whereas with the Shapton, the scratch pattern is more of a "true" grit scratch. I stone polish blades I make, and there's a big difference between Shapton and Naniwa. I found that Shapton doesn't leave a nice finish, but since the scratches are more even and the finish is less "blurred," I like Shapton in my progression as it doesn't hide any lines that need to be removed. With Naniwa (or other stones), the more blurred finish is nicer but can hide some deeper scratches. I'm not saying that your conclusion is wrong; the fineness of the grit is a key factor. But there are other aspects that need to be kept in the analysis. Thank you for taking the time to make this nice video; it's very nice to see those magnified images.

Absolutely fantastic video! Thank you for sharing it

What are the Pros & Cons of buyinga knife while on a trip to Japan VS Buying Online or Local store. (I'm in California or I'd totally come visit your shop)

What Naniwa+Suehiro+King have in common is that they are slower steel removers due to slurry. Shapton removes seel faster. This is a reason why Shapon feel rougher stone. It is not a question abou the partilce size. Think about the subject if you ride in a car at 100 km/h and you'd like to break over the gravel (Naniwa/Suehiro/King=slury) you will not be able efectively stop. Where as if you break the car over rough asphalt your breaking distance will be much shorter. The particles in Shapon stone do not break out and roll as in Naniwa/Suerhiro/King therefore Shapton creates more profound scratch pattern. In a #1000 grit aprox 15 micron stone we are looking for efective sharpening = effective steel removal = deeper scratches. From my point of view Shapton is #2 stone for me and if you would like to know what is fastes stone in #1000 grit category visit Templo del Filo in Lima, Peru.

Makes total sense, thanks for sharing this information!

I wish they made these in SG2

great video, ive heard some people saying that the shapton 1k is a bit rougher than the claimed grit but this really helps to put those claims into perspective. this is still a stone i intend to get as one of my first proper stones alongside the 2k, is the shapton 2k in the same boat as the 1k in terms of being rougher than the claimed grit? and if that is the case with all the shapton stones would you say a king 4k or the shapton 5k would be a better stone to go to after the shapton 2k? just going off of what is available in my country and want to make sure i know im getting the best, or at least a very good combo, thanks so much! (would have gone for choseras but they arent available here sadly)

Shitty test: don’t use Damascus, each layer has variable hardness, no knife is the same and they dont compare

Gran video, excelente gracias y un saludo

Hello, I have naniwa chosera 800 and 5000. It's ok to go from 800 to 5000 or should I buy a 3000? It's a must or it's not really big differendo do from 800-5000 to 800-3000-5000?

Nice to hear the sound of a professional sharpener!

Appreciate your recommendation, got my first stone, a Shapton 2K along with a strop. Just realised that your shop is near my work. Will definitely visit one day and get myself a japanese knive. I have a feeling that i will go down this rabbit hole hard LOL. Keep up the good work.

You've just saved me some money! What do you think of the new rolling sharpeners flooding the market?

I just got my shapton 300, and 1000, stones out today to do a few kitchen knives and thought "wow that 1000 seems rough" then I came across your video. With all that said, I still really like my shapton stone set and if need be I could always go to the 3000 if I wanted a finer edge. Thanks for posting your findings to the knife community.

I like your honesty. Good video!

I had a Chosera 3000 and bought the 1000 just because it´s green. I like when my stones have different colors because it makes it easier to pick the right one.

It does give a relatively fixed angle for each knife, but not a consistent angle between knifes of different size as you noted. But when used with some common sense and an angle guide, it's an effective jig to help beginners. Personally, I use a stone so infrequently that I've never developed the ideal freehand muscle memory.

Most underrated knife sharpening video on RUclips.

Finally I understand why the customer's knife is not good enough. It became an axe splitting the potatoes and not slicing the potatoes with the cutting edge. 💡 The customer's knife still have a good edge but not good enough for the type of work to have a clean cut. Thank you 4 this video.

Absolutely loved the video..... Hated the elevator music

What's the best oil for stainless knives?

Free hand sharpening indeed is hard when you have cheap kitchen knives that have been bent and whose geometry leaves things up to debate.

Well for a start shapton don't advertise as 1000grit, it's 1000mesh which is different

Did most of those 1000 stones fail to create a scratch pattern i.e. didn't even bite into the metal? I did know people call Shapton 1000 a coarser stone. But before this I've actually seen other stones also create scratch patterns, even up to very high numbers, where you could actually see the pattern easily, just a tighter pattern. Here you really don't even see a pattern. Maybe few individual scratches.

It’s a aid for a novice

11 minutes of waffle, condense it.

As a beginner which one is best for a single stone solution? I have many knives from a previous job I had when I was 16 working in a kitchen.

Am i the only one who finds it really annoying that the manufacturer doesn't tell users what type of steel it is? Just that it's "swedish" and stainless which does not narrow it down in the slightest, although SANDVIK 14C28N is fairly common at this hardness.

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Really useful information:)

Essentially this means, you either go Naniwa 400 ->Naniwa 1.000 - >any 3K/5K & Strop or you go 400 -> 2000 Shapton and then a 5K Strop. On the other side, the 1K Shapton in Combination with a 3K/5K of any other brand would make a perfect 2 Stone Setup, cause it is still "coarse" enough to take away material in an aceptable amount of time. You would even be able to just live with the Shapton 1.000k

If the angle of the guide is shallower than the target bevel angle, it could protect the blade surface by acting as a backstop (as well as telling a newbie "you've gone too shallow!")

That guide is only for 40-50 mm knife.

Pythagoras

Good day. I would like to know. Are Naniwa Super stone and Suehiro's NEW CERAX whetstones suitable for sharpening wood chisels made of High quality hardened steel. And what grit would you recommend to buy,

Hi, thank you for the video … great scientific approach … could you please provide details on your trying plate? Thank you

The clearest explanation of grit vs. brand. Would love to see similar vids on other grits...2k, 3k, 5k...thanks

I use engine oil. After an oil change there are much residue inside the bottle, so I dont throw away the bottle and just swipe my finger and apply on my knives. But my knives are not kitchen/food knives so its fine, not sure if Motul 300V is edible, probably not.

Appreciate the video, thank you.

That big grinding stone is beautiful

this knike is a hardened steel stiff enclaved in more soft steel handle ... Like damascus does

More on stropping, please... What material you use, emotion, etc.

I like this guy. Nice video buddy.

Thanks for your time on the phone. After sharpening my knife for quite some time on a weirdly mushy whetstone I figured I'd give a couple of carbon knives a go. Are any of these polishes relatively food safe (obviously not for general consumption but not poisonous)?

Can you tell if there's is a real difference between Naniwa Chosera and Naniwa Professional? What would you buy between those?